Mulan Paddock

Stretching out over 2,300 square kilometres (888 sq. mi) of pure unadulterated grassland, Mulan Paddock represents the largest imperial hunting grounds in the world. It covers nearly twice the area of the city of London and takes up huge portions of both Hebei province and Inner Mongolia. Hunting in this huge expanse, it’s a small wonder that the Emperor ever caught anything! The hunting grounds are part of the Bashang Grasslands and belong to the portion known as Weichang Bashang. They rest about 450 kilometres (280 mi) away from Beijing and now make for a popular weekend retreat, albeit with a lot less hunting and a lot more hiking!

With Mongolian yurts dotted like small pearls across its expanse and with the vast blue sky above it, it looks like a scene from a watercolour painting. Its appearance is so idyllic that it’s hard to believe it was once a site of major political change and warfare. Mulan Paddock was originally established by the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) so that he could keep an eye on the northern borders and strengthen his control of the Mongolian region. Every year the Emperor would bring his ministers and royal army, along with his family and concubines, to hunt on these grounds and thus reassert his claim to the territory. In fact, it was these regular annual visits that eventually prompted him to build the magnificent Chengde Mountain Resort in the nearby town of Rehe (modern-day Chengde).

01Nowadays these jade-hued grasslands are a place to relax, enjoy the scenery, cycle, ride horses, and sample tantalising Mongolian delicacies such as whole roast lamb. The area has been sanctioned off into three core attractions known as Saihanba National Forest Park, Yudaokou Grassland, and Hongsongwa Natural Conservation Zone, although there’s more to these peaceful meadows than meets the eye.

Not far from Saihanba National Forest Park, Wulan Butong Grassland once played host to one of the most epic battles in Chinese history; the Battle of Ulan Butung. On September 3rd 1690, the Kangxi Emperor allied with an ethnic subgroup of Mongolian people known as the Khalka and successfully drove Galdan Boshugtu Khan, the leader of a rival kingdom called the Dzungar Khanate, out of the grasslands. Though no evidence of this battle remains on the site, the Hongshan Army Horse Farm is a small reminder of the military purposes that these grasslands once served.

The farm was first built in 1964 and was designed to breed and train horses that could be used in the border areas. Over a period of just 40 years, this farm supplied the Chinese army with over 15,000 trained horses. That’s over 350 horses per year! At an altitude of over 1,500 metres (4,900 ft.), it’s perched at the highest point of Wulan Butong and is thus at a military advantage. That being said, the only people who appear to be raiding the horse farm nowadays are curious tourists!

Qingxiu Mountain

Qingxiu Mountain

Qingxiu Mountain is sometimes referred to as the “Green Lung” or the “Green Mountain” of Nanning, which is rather ironic considering that it is neither a lung nor a mountain. It is actually a scenic park made up of a series of 18 peaks, the highest of which reaches an altitude of just 289 metres. Although its mountains may not be the highest, or even actual mountains, Qingxiu Mountain is ranked as one of the Eight Treasured Scenic Spots of Nanning thanks to its lush tropical greenery, crystal clear lakes, and stylistically unique architecture. It is located just 5 kilometres (about 3.1 miles) southeast of downtown Nanning and has earned the title of “green lung” because, in an urban area as built-up as Nanning, it provides a welcome breath of fresh air.

The park contains a myriad of natural and manmade attractions that will both impress and baffle you. On the one hand, there are the stunning ancient walkways, ethereal natural springs, and charming tropical gardens. On the other hand, there is a Cycad Garden full of dinosaur statues, forever poised amongst the spiky plants to pounce on their hapless prey. The park is a strange and wonderful mixture of manmade wonder, natural beauty and amusing quirks that make for a perfect day out in Nanning.

At the top of the highest peak, there sits the majestic Longxiang Pagoda. The original pagoda was built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) but was tragically destroyed during the Second World War. Far more tragic is the fact that the pagoda was demolished by the Chinese themselves, as they believed Japanese fighter pilots would use it to pinpoint and target Nanning. It wasn’t until 1986 that the pagoda was restored to its former glory and it now stands at an impressive 51 metres in height, making it the largest pagoda in Guangxi. Although ascending it may seem like an unnecessary trial, we strongly recommend that you climb to the top and feast your eyes on the panoramic view of Nanning on offer. This spectacular view stretches out over 10 kilometres (6.2 miles) and makes for a wonderful photograph.

Thanks to an initiative by the local government to help solidify relations between China and South-East Asia, Qingxiu Mountain now also has a Thai Park. This park was designed by several Thai architects and boasts some magnificent structures, including an elaborate Thai-style Buddhist temple. Nestled within the verdant leaves and luminous flowers of the gardens, this temple adds an element of multiculturalism and spiritualism to the park. If you’re interested in religious iconography, Qingxiu Mountain boasts the largest supine jade Buddha in Southeast Asia and the largest sitting bronze statue of the Chinese hero Guan Yu[1] in the country. They are both located in Sanbao Hall, where you’ll also find some sacred images and idols of deities from the Zhuang ethnic minority.

Just east of Sanbao Hall, you’ll find the still, sparkling waters of Lake Yaochi. On the granite cliff to the east of the lake, there are intricate engravings of the Eight Immortals of Chinese legend, and surrounding the lake there is an orchard of delicate peach trees. Amid these cherry pink trees, with the deities towering above you and the glittering lake below, you’ll find it easy to lose yourself and while away an afternoon in contemplative thought. Or perhaps just settle down to a lovely picnic! Tianchi, the other manmade lake, is equally as beautiful and features the opportunity to feed koi carp. These ravenous little fish are sure to amuse and delight you as they jump and splash in the water to reach the tasty treats.

[1] Guan Yu: Sometimes referred to as Guan Gong and Guan Di for his various titles. He was a military general that played an instrumental role in the collapse of the Eastern Han Dynasty during the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280).

Jinkeng Red Yao Terraced Fields

The Jinkeng Terraces are the lesser known, less tourist oriented portion of the Longji Rice Terraces Scenic Area. Jinkeng is made up of several small villages, including Dazhai, Tiantou, Zhuangjie, Xinzhai and Xiaozhai, with Dazhai and Tiantou being considered the most scenic. The Jinkeng portion of the rice terraces is actually much larger than that of Ping’an village or Longji Ancient Zhuang Village but, because of the poor condition of the roads leading into the villages, it has yet to become as popular with tourists. The Jinkeng Terraces stretch up the mountains from 800 metres to a colossal 1,180 metres above sea level and their highest mountain, Fupingbao, is 1,900 metres at its peak. The hiking opportunities in Jinkeng are tremendous and we strongly recommend anyone looking for an adventure holiday in the rice terraces to opt for the villages of Dazhai or Tiantou as their base.

The main scenic spots in Jinkeng are Xishan Shaoyue or “Musical West Hill”, Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces, and Golden Buddha Peak. Xishan Shaoyue is the first viewing platform on the mountains and offers a wonderful vantage point of the rice terraces. It is the easiest of the three scenic spots to get to and should only take about 2 hours to reach on foot. It’s a superb place to watch the sun rise and set over the rice terraces and it offers the broadest view of the Jinkeng Terraced Fields. Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces is near to Xishan Shaoyue and there is a well-kept path on a gentle gradient leading to it so it is fairly easy to reach on foot. This area is particularly impressive due to the sheer number of rice terraces carved out of the mountains below, which perfectly exhibit the industrious work of the farmers who built them. It also offers an ideal view of the Yao villages below and is considered the perfect place to watch the sunrise.

Golden Buddha Peak is the only scenic spot that has cable car access in the Longji Scenic Area and this is simply because it is so far away! The cableway is about 1,580 metres long and takes just 20 minutes to reach the peak, although you do have to pay extra to ride the cable car. Otherwise, it’s about a 3 hour hike to reach the top, but this hike does reward you with stunning views of the rice terraces as you ascend the mountain. Golden Buddha Peak is considered the best scenic spot in Jinkeng and offers the most spectacular views of the rice terraces, particularly at sunset. If you’re feeling adventurous or you’re making an overnight stay in Dazhai or Tiantou, we strongly recommend taking the hike up the Golden Buddha Peak. Trust us, watching the sun set across the cascading mountains is a more than suitable reward.

The Jinkeng Red Yao Terraces are so named because the majority of the villages in the Jinkeng area are home to the Red Yao ethnic minority. These are a branch of the Yao ethnic minority that are named for their traditional dress. On festival occasions, the Red Yao women will wear a vibrant red coat and black pleated skirt, hence the name “Red” Yao. Yao women are also famous for growing their hair long and the best place to witness this unusual tradition is in nearby Huangluo Village.

The best time to visit the Jinkeng Rice Terraces is between April and late October, as this is when the farmers will be planting the rice. Each season affords different views of the rice terraces, so choose when you want to go carefully!

Dazhai (大寨)

“Dazhai” literally means “Large Village” in Chinese and, unsurprisingly, Dazhai is one of the largest villages in the Jinkeng area. Over 1,000 people live in the village of Dazhai and over 98% of them are from the Yao ethnic minority. Dazhai is far less crowded than Ping’an but is still reasonably well-equipped for tourism. There are just over 30 hotels and hostels in Dazhai and a number of restaurants. Although these hotels tend to be wooden and are not equipped with as many modern amenities as those in Ping’an, they offer a far more rustic feel and make you feel as though you are truly part of the village. On top of visiting the rice terraces, many of the local Yao people in Dazhai will gladly welcome you into their home and offer a glimpse of their simple, rural lifestyle.

Tiantou (田头)

“Tiantou” literally means “Head of the Fields” or “Farms” in Chinese and this aptly demonstrates the rustic atmosphere of this small village. Although Tiantou is smaller than Dazhai, it is located far closer to Xishan Shaoyue and Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces. There are a handful of hotels in Tiantou, which make it the perfect place for an overnight stay should you wish to catch the sunrise at either of these scenic spots.

Quanjinglou or “Panorama Lodge” is considered to be the best hotel in the Jinkeng area and can be reached from both Dazhai and Tiantou. It is located not far from the Xishan Shaoyue scenic spot and has 26 rooms, which all offer outstanding views of the rice terraces.

bamboo-tube riceDining

Like Ping’an, the local cuisine in Dazhai and Tiantou is simple. Popular local dishes include bamboo-tube rice, smoked bacon fried with bamboo shoots, braised chicken, and fresh vegetables fried in oil. Many of the ingredients for the dishes will be locally sourced and taste incredibly fresh. A handful of restaurants and guesthouses in the area will offer some simple Western food, such as pizza or French fries.

How To Get There

You first need to take the express bus from Guilin to Longsheng County Town, which takes about 2 hours. The buses between Guilin and Longsheng are very regular and usually run at 15 minute intervals. In Longsheng you’ll need to purchase your tickets for the rice terraces. From Longsheng, you’ll need to take a bus to Dazhai Parking Lot, which can take up to 2 hours. At the parking lot, you can either make the short walk to Dazhai or walk to Tiantou, which takes about half an hour. Please be advised that the last bus back to Longsheng leaves from Dazhai Parking Lot at 4pm every day, so if you’re taking a daytrip to the rice terraces then you should aim to arrive and leave early.

Mu Family Mansion

The history of the Mu clan is intrinsically linked to that of Lijiang; for one would not exist without the other. The Mu were a Naxi family who became well-known for their exceptional skill and experience in city planning, and eventually masterminded the construction of Baisha Village and Dayan Town (modern-day Lijiang Old Town). They managed to maintain rule over the area right up until the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), when they were overthrown by the Mongolians and reinstated as Tusi[1]. Under their new title, this industrious and talented family led the region into financial prosperity throughout the Yuan, Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties and their glorious family mansion is a testament to their success.

In its heyday, twenty-two generations of the Mu family lived in this mansion. It once covered over 64,000 square metres (16 acres) and consisted of nearly one hundred buildings. Many visitors described it as a miniature Forbidden City because of its beauty and design. Bear in mind comparing any lowly mortal to the deified Emperor was punishable by death, so saying the mansion of an official was reminiscent of the imperial palace was a pretty risky compliment to make!

Tragically most of the original mansion was destroyed during the Qing Dynasty due to the frequent wars that broke out around the region but, from 1996 to 1999, it was rebuilt. Nowadays the complex covers half the area it once did, stretching to only about 32,000 square metres (8 acres), but all attempts were made to capture the essence and style of its original magnificence. It stretches up the east side of the Shizi or Lion Mountain in the southwest part of Lijiang Old Town and is made up of two areas; the office area and the living area.

As you enter the main gate, you’ll come upon the Yishi or Meeting Hall at the end of a vast courtyard. This marks the beginning of the office area and, as the name suggests, this hall was used to conduct official business and hold meetings. The building itself is surrounded by stunningly carved marble balustrades and on the inside you’ll find three wooden steles that have been engraved by three different Ming Emperors with the words “Devoted to the Country” (诚心报国). With an office this tranquil, it’s no wonder the Mu family were so successful. If only all offices could be like this!

Directly behind Yishi Hall, you’ll find the spectacular Wanjuan Pavilion. The word “wanjuan” (万卷) means “ten thousand scrolls” or “ten thousand books” and this pavilion is truly a book lover’s paradise, with thousands of sutras[2], paintings, and scrolls of calligraphy lining its walls. Parts of this collection are over 2,000 years old and include sacred texts of the Dongba[3] religion, volumes of the Tripitaka[4], poetry anthologies of six poets from the Mu family, and the calligraphy and paintings of numerous celebrated calligraphers and artists.

Behind the pavilion, the mysterious Hufa Hall was once the centre for the family’s religious activities, such as ritual sacrifices and prayers. To the far north of the hall, there’s a vast expanse of courtyards that represent the living area of the Mu clan. These courtyards, and the mansion as a whole, reflect the architectural style of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The layout is incredibly similar to that of the Forbidden City and the simple elegance of the decorations is characteristic of the Central Han Chinese style. The exotic flowers and rare medicinal herbs that bedeck the many courtyards are reminiscent of Suzhou’s royal gardens and the paintings on the inner and outer walls are imbued with ethnic flair from the Bai, Tibetan and Naxi styles.

At the top of the complex, there is a Taoist temple where monks still worship and Taoist fortune tellers ply their trade. In a few of the courtyards, visitors can purchase tea, beer or other beverages and settle down to a quiet afternoon spent admiring the many lush azaleas and orchids adorning the gardens. A peaceful evening spent in contemplative thought, sipping on a hot cup of tea and feeling the last warm rays of the sun as it sets over the mountains; I can’t think of a better way to spend a day.

[1] Tusi: Chieftains or tribal leaders who were permitted to rule over a certain region and were acknowledged as imperial officials but who ultimately answered to the Emperor.

[2] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha.

[3] Dongba: The main religion of the Naxi ethnic minority. It is most famous for the Dongba script, the last known hieroglyphic writing system still in use.

[4] Tripitaka: The collective term for the three main categories of sacred text that make up the Buddhist canon. These are sutras, abhidharma, and vinaya.

Moon Hill

moon hill 01

The Chinese believe there is a palace on the moon known as Guanghan Palace. It is home to the legendary figures Chang’e, the Jade Rabbit and Wu Gang the Woodcutter. According to Chinese mythology, they are responsible for the spots and shadows you see on the moon. On the roof of Moon Hill, you can see stalactites that greatly resemble these mythical characters. Perhaps they’ve become bored of the moon and decided to live on its beautiful earthly counterpart instead!

Moon Hill is located just outside of Yangshuo and just south of the Jingbao River. At its summit, it reaches 380 metres (1,250 ft.) above sea level and is 410 metres (1,350 ft.) in length. The “moon” of Moon Hill was once a cave that eroded over time to form a wide, semi-circular hole close to the summit. This hole, or arch, is 50 metres (about 160 ft.) high and approximately 50 metres wide. If you look at Moon Hill from different angles, it can appear to be a full moon or a crescent moon and, if you position yourself at exactly the right spot, you can make it look as though you are “holding” the moon in the palm of your hand.

moon hill 02There is an 800-step path that leads to this arch and then a further, rockier path that leads to the mountain’s summit. The marble stairway was established in 1981 and is called “Appreciating Moon Path”. It is relatively easy to climb and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the arch. The path leading to the summit is on a much higher gradient and is much more overgrown, so it can take another 20 minutes just to reach the top. However, whether you climb to the arch or brave the summit, the view from Moon Hill is truly spectacular. This vantage point offers you panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, and is the perfect place to take some stunning photographs of Yangshuo County.

Moon Hill also boasts several rock-climbing routes of varying difficulties, most of which were pioneered by the American climber Todd Skinner in the 1990s. The mountain boasts over 14 climbing routes, among which the notorious “Moonwalker” is considered one of the most challenging.

Moon Hill is within cycling distance of Yangshuo and, in an effort to promote tourism in the area, the government established a bicycle path there known as the Ten-Li Gallery. Li is a Chinese unit of measurement that roughly equates to half a kilometre (1,600 ft.) and along this ten li (50 km) path there are numerous mountains worth visiting. These mountains have been given fanciful names according to their shapes, such as the Flaming Mountain, the Heavenly Horse Gallops into the Sky, the Golden Cat Comes Out of the Hole, and the Beautiful Girl Puts on Her Make-up. A series of caves, including Black Buddha Cave, Dragon Cave, and New Water Cave, have also been opened along the path to Moon Hill. Some of these caves even contain mud baths and hot springs where tourists can enjoy their own, private spa.

There are two cycling routes from Yangshuo to Moon Hill. The older one tends to be full of vendors that will try to sell you snacks or souvenirs on your way. The newer one takes longer but is much quieter and takes you through the scenic, ancient village of Longtan or “Dragon Pond”. Longtan is located just behind Moon Hill and many of its houses are hundreds of years old. Walking through this rural town is like taking a trip back in time. The town derives its name from the pond directly behind it, which is also called Dragon Pond. This pond has been used by locals to wash their clothes and vegetables for hundreds of years.

The Wuyi Mountains

mount wuyi 01

The Wuyi Mountains are a mountain range located just to the south of Wuyishan City in Nanping Prefecture, Fujian. It rests on the border between Fujian and Jiangxi, and its highest peak, Mount Huanggang, is the highest point of both provinces. The range boasts altitudes of 200 metres (660 ft.) at its lowest to over 2,100 metres (7,000 ft.) at its highest! Yet tall, dark, and handsome though these mountains may be, their true value lies in their cultural, scenic, and natural importance. In fact, this range has played such a significant role in Chinese history that UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1999.

The range is characterised by rushing waters, deep river valleys, columnar cliffs, and complex cave systems. In the western portion, the peaks typically consist of volcanic rock, while in the eastern area they are mainly made up of red sandstone with steep slopes and flat tops. This creates a myriad of landscapes, from sheer white cliffs to rusty red plinths. The mountains form a protective barrier against the northwesterly winds and, as a result, the climate within the range is humid with a high level of rainfall and plenty of condensation. Watching the peaks rise mistily out of the fog is truly breath-taking, that is if you can see through all the sweat on your face!

The range represents some of the finest examples of both Chinese subtropical forests and South Chinese rainforests. These habitats support a rich ecology and biodiversity that has thrived since the Ice Age over 3 million years ago. From evergreen broad-leaved forests to bamboo forests and meadow steppes, the plethora of greenery will not leaf you wanting more! In fact, these diverse environments house over 3,500 species of plant, 4,500 species of insect, and 450 species of vertebrates.

These include 49 species that are endemic to China and 3 that are endemic specifically to the Wuyi Mountains, such as David’s parrotbill and Pope’s spiny toad. Just watch your step; Clifford H. Pope named that toad for a reason! Numerous endangered species, including clouded leopards and South Chinese tigers, all prowl the expanse of these mountains. Yet by far the most revered and feared members of the Wuyi community are its snakes. From King cobras and bamboo vipers to 33-foot-long pythons, these slithery serpents have been worshipped, eaten, and used in medicine by the locals for hundreds of years. Steak and chips? Why not try snake and chips?

Archaeological evidence indicates that the Wuyi Mountain region was occupied by humans before the Xia Dynasty (c. 2100-1600 BC) but was not consolidated into the Chinese empire until the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD). In the 1st century BC, a large administrative town named Chengcun was established there and, during the 7th century, the royal Wuyi Palace was built nearby.

It was then that Wuyi achieved its status as a sacred mountain. It became the first centre for Taoism in the region and many Taoist temples and academies were founded here, until Taoism was superseded by Buddhism in the 17th century. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the mountain had become such a holy spot that Emperor Xuanzong issued a decree forbidding fishing and logging in the area; a decree which is still active today. So if you’re hankering for some fish fingers, you’ll need to look elsewhere!

mount wuyiDuring the Song Dynasty (960-1279) it reached the height, or should I say peak, of its cultural importance as it became the cradle for the revolutionary school of thought known as Neo-Confucianism. In 1183, scholar Zhu Xi established the famous Wuyi Jingshe Academy on the mountain range and began developing the doctrines that would evolve into Neo-Confucianism. This school of thought is considered to be the most influential of its kind throughout the whole of the Far East.

From the 11th to the 16th century there was an imperial tea farm here, which produced tea solely for the imperial court. Tea cultivation has become a main source of income for the Wuyi locals and, of the many types of tea grown here, the four most famous are: Big Red Robe, Iron Arhat, White Cockscomb, and Golden Turtle Tea. The mother bushes of all these teas can be found on this mountain range and tea from one of only three Big Red Robe mother bushes is so valuable that, in some instances, it can sell for up to $1,025,000 a kilogram (approximately £657,000)!

Nowadays, the incredible history of these mountains can be witnessed in the 18 wooden boat coffins sheltered on its steep cliffs that date back to the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 BC); the remains of 35 ancient academies that were built from the Song to the Qing (1644-1912) dynasties; and the 60 Taoist temples and monasteries that are littered throughout the range in varying degrees of ruin. Only four administrative buildings of the ancient city of Chengcun remain and the ruins of the Wuyi Palace have now been incorporated into a sort of living museum.

The Nine-Bend River meanders through a deep gorge in the centre of the range and is a staggering 60 kilometres (37 miles) in length. A bamboo raft ride down the river rewards any visitor with stunning views of the surrounding peaks and historical ruins that make this mountain so precious. However, if you’re feeling a little seasick, you may want to try hiking along the mountains instead! Other areas of scenic value include the celebrated Jade Maiden Peak, Water Curtain Cave, Heavenly Tour Peak, and Roaring Tiger Peak.

Impression Da Hong Pao is a 60 minute show that was masterminded by Zhang Yimou, the director behind House of Flying Daggers and similar shows such as Impression Liu Sanjie in Guangxi and Impression Lijiang in Yunnan. It is a stunning lightshow that uses the Wuyi Mountains as its natural backdrop and incorporates hundreds of local actors.

Longji Ancient Zhuang Village (Guzhuang Village)

Compared to its northern cousin Ping’an, Longji Ancient Zhuang Village is relatively isolated from the outside world and has yet to be embraced as a tourist attraction. Its Chinese name, “Guzhuang Zhai” (古壮寨), literally means “Ancient Zhuang Village” in Chinese, so it is often referred to as “Longji Ancient Zhuang Village” to differentiate it from other Zhuang villages. The “Zhuang” in its name refers to the vast numbers of people from the Zhuang ethnic minority who call this village home. Guzhuang village boasts over 200 households and a population of approximately 1,000 Zhuang people, making it technically larger and more populous than Ping’an.

Guzhuang is located about 5 kilometres east of the town of Heping and 3 kilometres southwest of Ping’an. Like Ping’an, it provides access to the Longji Rice Terraces, although there are few designated scenic spots along Guzhuang’s rice terraces as the area has not yet been geared up for tourism. The rice terraces surrounding Guzhuang are far quieter, less crowded and seemingly more natural than those of Ping’an. This is because their primary purpose is rice cultivation and not tourism. Guzhuang is the perfect rural retreat for anyone who has become tired of the bustling crowds and tourist atmosphere of Ping’an.

Guzhuang village has been home to the Liao Family Tribe, Hou Family Tribe, Pingduan Tribe and Pingzhai Tribe for over 400 years. The whole of the village’s population is made up of members from the Liao family, the Hou Family, and the Pan family, which form the four tribes. These families belong to the Baiyi or “White Clothes” branch of the Zhuang ethnic minority and are characterised by their beautifully embroidered white shirts. In keeping with its ethnic aesthetic, Guzhuang village also has the largest collection of Zhuang Diaojiaolou in China. Diaojiaolou are traditional three-storey wooden houses that have been built on large stilts in order to protect the inhabitants from insects and snakes, although styles of Diaojiaolou vary between the different ethnic minorities. The Diaojiaolou in Guzhuang are some of the oldest in the country and some even date back over 100 years.

For the benefit of visitors, one of the oldest Diaojiaolou has been opened to the public so that tourists can get an idea of what it is like living in these traditional wooden houses. Walking through these old buildings endows any visitor with a wonderful feeling of peace and many tourists spend over half a day simply wandering through the village and getting lost in its antiquated beauty. There is also a museum in the village that is dedicated to the history, culture and customs of the Zhuang ethnic minority. The museum is full of fascinating artefacts, detailed historical accounts, and traditional dress of the Zhuang people.

Other architectural features of the village dating back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties have been wonderfully well preserved and exhibit the extensive heritage of Guzhuang. These include the Longquan Pavilion, the Site of the Military Camp, the Clean and Honest Politics Stele (Lianzheng Stele) and several water mills. The stone bridges in the village are perhaps the most elaborate structures of all. There are 300 of these stone bridges scattered throughout the Longji Rice Terrace Scenic Area, 57 of which can be found in Guzhuang. These bridges have been delicately carved with images of lotuses, swords and the eight trigrams of Bagua[1] theory. The finest of these bridges is called “Three Fish Share One Head”, which is a Wind-Rain bridge located just in front of the village’s administrative office.

To get to the village, you first need to take an express bus from Guilin to Longsheng County Town or Heping Town, which takes about 2 hours. From Longsheng or Heping, you have to transfer onto another bus heading to Guzhuang village. Alternatively, you can hike from Ping’an village to Guzhuang, which only takes about an hour. Unfortunately there are currently no established hostels or hotels in Guzhuang village and the village itself is lacking in many modern amenities, so staying there overnight is not an option. However, nearby Ping’an village has over 80 hotels and hostels that are ready to welcome any weary traveller hiking back from Guzhuang.

[1] Bagua: The eight trigrams used in Taoist philosophy to represent the fundamental principles of reality. In their most simplified form, they symbolise the sky, the lakes, fire, thunder, wind, water, mountains and earth respectively.

Eight Outlying Temples

The Eight Outlying Temples are part of the Chengde Mountain Resort but rest outside of its walls. They were designed by the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) emperors to help keep the peace and appease people from the numerous resident ethnic minorities. In order to achieve this aim, the architects incorporated features from several styles, including those of the Han, Mongolian, Manchu, Man, and Tibetan ethnic groups. The name rather misleadingly suggests that there are only 8 temples, but there are in fact 12. The term “Eight Outlying Temples” comes from the fact that they were under eight different administrations. Many of them are over 200 years old and contain thousands of the most elaborate and stunning Buddhist statues in the country.

The most well-known is the Putuo Zongcheng Temple, which was built during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor (1735-1796) and was modelled after Potala Palace in Lhasa. Its Golden Pavilion, heavily inlaid with golden decorations, was where the emperor regularly worshipped. Xumi Fushou Temple was similarly inspired by Tashilhunpo Monastery in Tibet and was constructed to make the Panchen Lama[1] feel comfortable during his stay in 1780. You know you’re important when a whole temple is built just for your summer visit!

Pule Temple or Temple of Universal Joy was designed primarily by Tibetan advisors and bizarrely the rear of the temple is an almost exact copy of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests in the Temple of Heaven. Finally the Puning Temple or Temple of Universal Peace, which was built in 1755, contains the world’s largest wooden statue of the Buddhist goddess Guanyin, resplendent with her 42 outstretched arms and towering in at a height of 22 metres (73 ft.). The statue is so huge that you can even climb to the third-storey of the temple and look her straight in the eyes. Just don’t try to give her a high-five!

[1] The Panchen Lama: The highest ranking lama after the Dalai Lama according to Tibetan Buddhism.

Hongkeng

In the sleepy countryside of Yongding County, surrounded by lush green forests and misty mountains, the village of Hongkeng may not be the liveliest place in Fujian, but its certainly one of the most unique. This village is home to over 100 tulou of various shapes, styles, and sizes; of which 13 were built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and 33 were established during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

These tulou are gigantic, fortress-like buildings made of packed earth that were initially designed to protect inhabitants from bandits and wild animals. They resemble fortified villages and come in a variety of styles, from those of a square or rectangular shape to round and oval ones. With all of these unusually shaped buildings, Hongkeng must surely feel like a square peg in a round hole!

The first of these tulou were constructed by the Lin family during the 13th century but tragically several of the originals, including Chongyu Lou and Nanchang Lou, have since collapsed. Yet it seems the Lins were trendsetters, because it wasn’t long before other branches of the Lin clan started building their own tulou in the village. Of the many earthen structures that rise up out of the village grounds, Zhengcheng Lou, Fuyu Lou, Kuiju Lou, and Rusheng Lou have garnered the most fame.

Zhengcheng Lou was built in 1912 according to the Eight Diagrams of Bagua theory. The two wells within this tulou represent Yin and Yang, while its three gates symbolise heaven, earth and human beings respectively. The external ring of the compound is a four-storey building that has been divided into eight units or “gua”. The branch of the Lin family that established Zhengcheng Lou had also studied abroad in Europe and thus incorporated many Western features into their tulou to make it stand out. It seems T. S. Eliot’s famed proverb “good poets borrow, great poets steal” can also be applied to architects!

Fuyu Lou, on the other hand, is a completely different style of tulou known as a “Wufeng” or “Five Pheonix” tulou. Built in 1882 by three brothers, it was designed to look like a phoenix spreading its wings and its appearance was heavily influenced by Han-style architecture. The exterior supposedly looks like three mountains rising towards the sky, as the brothers wanted to imply that they were as magnificent as mountains. Modesty evidently wasn’t a family trait!

From mountains to mansions, Kuiju Lou is a large, square-shaped tulou that was built to resemble a palace, earning it the alternate name “Potala Palace”. Unlike many of the other earthen buildings, the interior is bedecked with sculptures, colourful murals, and complex architectural features. After all, a man’s house is his castle, and a family’s tulou is their palace!

Size may have mattered to the owners of these first three tulou, but Rusheng Lou is famous precisely because it is the smallest tulou in existence. It was built sometime between 1875 and 1908, and is just 17 metres in diameter, with only three-storeys and 16 rooms to house its inhabitants. The name “rusheng” means “as if to rise”; perhaps because the optimistic owner hoped it would grow over time!

The Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves

Hidden deep within the Mutou Valley of the Flaming Mountains, the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves mark the beginnings of Buddhism in China. Though they have suffered great damage over the years, the name “Bezeklik”, which in the Uyghur language means “a place with paintings” or “a beautifully decorated place”, gives us some idea of their former glory.

The Buddhist grottos within the complex were constructed from the Southern and Northern Dynasties Period (420-589) right through to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), meaning the scope of art styles is incredibly diverse. Although it is essentially a religious place, many of the paintings depict images of aristocrats who made donations to support the site’s development. After all, even in ancient times people still wanted to get their moneys worth!

They are located about 45 kilometres (28 mi) east of Turpan and approximately 15 kilometres (9 mi) north of the Gaochang Ruins. Since the ancient city of Gaochang was one of the major trading hubs along the Silk Road, it would have also been one of the first places where Buddhism arrived in China and thus it witnessed the earliest development of Buddhist cave art in the country. Many of the grottos within the Bezeklik Caves were commissioned by members of the Gaochang Kingdom, who ruled over the area during the 6th century, but the vast majority of the surviving grottos date back to between the 10th and 13th centuries, when the area was ruled by the Uyghurs. Thus the art within the caves is not only a mixture of styles, but also features people of multiple ethnicities.

When Islam swept through Central Asia during the 15th and 16th centuries, much of Xinjiang’s population converted and the Bezeklik Caves were completely abandoned. During the ensuing religious clashes, many of the murals within the caves were destroyed. Since Muslims believe that images of sentient beings are blasphemous, the figures in several of the paintings have noticeably had their eyes scratched out or their faces obscured. This means some of the scenes within the caves now resemble a set from a horror movie!

Further damage was caused when local farmers broke off parts of the earthen walls and the murals to use as fertiliser. So remember, if you happen to sample any of the locally grown vegetables in the area, they might be sacred! Towards the beginning of the 20th century, foreign explorers rediscovered the caves but unfortunately stole many of the murals and sent them to their home countries. In particular, some of the most beautiful and best preserved murals were forcibly removed by explorer Albert von Le Coq and sent to Germany, where they were permanently fixed to the walls of the Museum of Ethnology in Berlin.

This meant that, during the Second World War, they could not be removed and were subsequently destroyed when Berlin was bombed by the Allies. Though this loss was undoubtedly tragic, nowadays many of the remaining murals are safely kept in museums around the world, including the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Tokyo National Museum in Japan, and the British Museum in London.

Today the site is separated into 77 numbered grottos, of which only 40 still contain their original murals. What makes these murals so unique is that they feature images of people from multiple ethnicities living, working, and socialising together. Chinese, Indians, Turks, Mongolians, Uyghurs, and even Europeans grace the walls of these magnificent caves, providing evidence that Gaochang was once one of the first multi-ethnic cities in the world. The inscriptions that accompany the paintings are written not only in Chinese, but also in the ancient Uyghur language and several other languages, which has given historians an invaluable insight into the interactions between these peoples.

The murals within Caves Number 16 and 17 are often regarded as the most exceptional. In Cave No. 16, there is a painting of a musician playing an ancient instrument known as a xiao hulei. This instrument greatly resembled a lute and originated from Yunnan province in south China, which implies that northern and southern China had far more contact during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) than was previously believed.

The mural in Cave No. 17 is widely considered to be a depiction of the Manichaen version of Hell. Manichaeism was a major ancient religion that originated from Iran and was once the main rival of Christianity. Although the religion is now extinct, the artwork in this cave suggests that it was once popular in the Turpan region between the 9th and 12th centuries. Aside from the murals, another highlight of the area is its characteristically alien landscape. The huge sand-dunes, rust-coloured mountains, and deep canyons all give the caves’ surroundings an undeniably exotic flair.