Gongfu Tea

In China, there is an old saying which states: “Wherever people from Chaozhou live, you’ll find Gongfu Tea.” While the art of Gongfu Tea or “Kung-Fu Tea” is popular throughout China, it is widely believed to have originated from the city of Chaozhou in Guangdong province. To this day, most families in Chaozhou will have a special tea table in their home and a traditional tea set that is specifically designed for serving Gongfu Tea. Now you’re probably thinking: What’s so tea-rrific about Gongfu Tea?

This style of tea, which has been popular among the locals of Chaozhou since the Song Dynasty (960-1279), is known for its formidably strong and bitter flavour, earning it the nickname the “espresso of Chinese teas.” Traditionally Gongfu Tea is served before and after a meal in most restaurants throughout Chaozhou, but it can also be savoured on its own in one of the city’s many teahouses. The term “gongfu” or “kung-fu” does not refer to any tea-related martial arts, and instead is used to mean “making tea with skill.” This term extends even further, as the art of tasting the tea is similarly believed to require a certain level of skill. There’s no time to relax when it comes to this cup of afternoon tea!

Gongfu Tea is not a type of tea specifically, but is in fact a style of tea ceremony that involves the ritual preparation and presentation of tea. Nowadays, this method of making tea is popular throughout Chinese tea shops and is used by tea connoisseurs worldwide in order to maximize their tea drinking experience. For lovers of Gongfu Tea, it is as much about self-cultivation as it is about the preparation of the tea itself. By focusing on the movements of the tea ceremony, as well as the taste, aroma, and appearance of the tea, the practitioner of Gongfu Tea will become aware of what is known as the “cha qi” (茶气) or “tea energy” and will thus gain greater insight into how the tea affects both their body and mind.

When it comes to the tea ceremony itself, black teas such as oolong and pu’er are preferred. White and green teas can also be used, but their delicate flavour means there is little benefit to brewing them in this way. It is also imperative to use the best grade of tea possible, as good quality tea will yield between 6 to 10 brews with consistent flavour. Lower quality tea may have a pleasant taste for the first couple of brews, but its flavour will significantly weaken thereafter, meaning you’ll have to use more tea leaves in the long run.

In essence, the purpose of Gongfu Tea is to utilize the best materials, instruments, and methods to brew the tea in order to get the maximum flavour and maximum number of brews out of the tea leaves themselves. Its thoroughly practical nature means it is distinctly different from the well-known Japanese tea ceremony known as Chanoyu, where the focus is on the symbolic meaning behind each step rather than on its functional purpose. The history behind these two tea ceremonies, however, is delicately intertwined.

During the 12th century, Japan began growing and producing tea following Chinese models. Towards the end of the 14th century, loose leaf tea became a popular household product in China and it was eventually used by the imperial government during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Once the status of loose leaf tea was raised, related teaware such as the teapot became an essential item. More attention was thus being paid to the act of brewing tea, which resulted in the Gongfu Tea ceremony becoming popularised sometime during the 18th century. This had a major impact on tea-drinking culture in Japan and their tea ceremony began taking shape almost simultaneously.

Arguably, the most important instrument for making Gongfu Tea is the teapot. The best teapots are unglazed clay teapots made from special “Yixing clay” from the county of Yixing in China’s Jiangsu province. This clay comes in three types that influence the colour of the teapot: purple, red, and green. The porous nature of these teapots and their heat handling properties mean they are superior to glass, porcelain, and glazed teapots. The main downside, however, is that one teapot should only be used to brew one type of tea and Yixing teapots are generally quite expensive. Over time, the Yixing teapot will absorb the flavour of the tea and thus enhance the tea-drinking experience. High-fired teapots with thinner and finer clay work best with green, white, and oolong teas, while low-fired teapots with thicker and more porous clay should be used for pu’er and black teas. 

When it comes to the brewing of the tea itself, there are two essential factors that need to be considered: the water being used; and the temperature the water is boiled at. It should come as no surprise that water which tastes or smells bad will not yield a pleasant tasting tea. However, distilled or extremely soft water can be equally unpleasant, as it lacks minerals and can results in a “flat” or flavourless brew. That being said, high content mineral water should similarly be avoided, as it can overwhelm the flavour of the tea. Local and natural spring water is ideal, although bottled spring water will suffice. 

When it comes to boiling the water, the optimal temperature varies between different types of tea. For example, water used to brew oolong tea should be heated to 95 °C (203 ℉), while water used to brew compressed teas such as pu’er should be boiled at 100 °C (212 ℉). Most tea masters don’t need to use a thermometer and can accurately gauge the temperature of the water based on both the timing and the air bubbles in the kettle. According to Chinese tradition, the bubbles formed at between 75 to 85 °C (167-185 ℉) are known as “crab eyes” due to their size and are typically accompanied by loud, rapid sizzling noises. At 90 to 95 °C (194-203 ℉), the bubbles are called “fish eyes” because they are much larger and they are accompanied by a slower, quieter sizzling noise. Once the water has reached boiling point, there should be no visible air bubbles and no discernible sizzling sounds. 

The complexity of the ceremony means that any tea master must be equipped with an arsenal of instruments at their disposal! The main instruments used in Gongfu Tea are: the teapot or a covered bowl known as a gaiwan; the tea pitcher or decanting vessel, which is used to ensure the flavour of the tea is consistent when its poured into multiple cups; the kettle; the brewing tray, which is specially designed to hold spills; a tea cloth; a tea spoon or tea pick, which is used to clear excess tea from the spout of the teapot; the timer; the tea strainer; a special type of wooden tea spoon that is used to measure the correct amount of tea leaves required; and tea cups, preferably three that are of matching size and style.

If that wasn’t complicated enough, there are also several optional instruments that are believed to enhance the tea-drinking experience. These are: the tea basin, which serves as a receptacle for used tea leaves; a set of scales to weigh the tea leaves; a scent cup, which is solely used to appreciate the tea’s aroma and is never drank from; a pair of tongs known as “jia” (挟) that are used to pick up and empty the tea cups; and a calligraphy-style tea brush, which can be used to spread the wasted tea across the tea tray and ensure that the tea soaks into the tray evenly, endowing it with a pleasant colour. 

While all of these instruments are considered necessary for the proper preparation of Gongfu Tea, there is one addition to the ceremony that is purely aesthetic. Most tea shops and tea masters will have at least one “tea pet,” which is a small statue that is typically made from the same unglazed clay as a Yixing teapot. The use of tea pets dates all the way back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and they are often modelled after classical Chinese figures, such as the dragon, the zodiac animals, the lion turtle, and the toad. Each tea pet will have a special symbolic meaning and they are believed to bring good luck to their owners. The first brew of the tea and any leftover tea is poured over the tea pet as an offering, but it has the added benefit of preventing the water from splattering on the tea tray. After all, the last thing you want during a leisurely tea ceremony is to end up in the splash zone!

Finally, you’re probably wondering: What actually happens during Gongfu Tea? First, the teapot is filled with boiling water and allowed to sit until it has become warm. The boiling water is then poured over the strainer and the tea cups in order to sterilize them. Once the teapot is emptied, the tea leaves are measured and placed into the teapot. Boiled water is then added to the teapot until it is overflowing and, after the lid has been placed back on, this water is immediately poured off either onto the tea tray or the tea pet. This process is believed to “wake up” the tea leaves in preparation for the second brew. 

After that, the water is heated to the requisite temperature, added to the teapot, and left for few seconds. Warm water should be poured over the teapot while the tea is brewing, in order to maintain an even brewing temperature. Once the tea is finished brewing, it is poured into the tea pitcher or decanter and the lid is placed on top. The teacups should now be emptied of the warm water used to sterilize them, preferably with a pair of tongs. When the teacups are empty, the tea can be served from the pitcher. Ideally the tea cups should be placed close together and filled continuously in a circle, so that the strength of the tea is the same in each cup.

Multiple brews can be yielded by simply repeating the process of adding water to the teapot. When the process is finished, the leaves are removed and the teapot should be rinsed with hot water before being allowed to air-dry. In order to ensure that all of the instruments remain clean, they should also be rinsed and allowed to air-dry.  

Try cups of Gongfu Tea on our travel: Explore the Ancient Fortresses of Southeast China

Teochew People

Chaozhou City and Shantou City on the map

The history of the Teochew people has long been shrouded in mystery and, although there are many theories about their origins, there is still desperately little that is known about where they came from. Known alternatively as the Chaozhou people, they are a sub-group of the Han Chinese ethnic majority that are native to the Chaoshan region, which is largely made up of the cities of Chaozhou, Shantou, and Jieyang in Guangdong province. Nowadays, however, vast contingencies of Teochew people can be found throughout Southeast Asia, including Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Indonesia. There are even some small communities of Teochew living in places as far-flung as the US, Canada, Australia, and France!

Alongside the Hakka and the Cantonese people, the Teochew are estimated to have lived in the Chaoshan region for hundreds of years. According to the most widely believed theory, their ancestors originally lived in modern-day Henan province, but were forced south when the north was repeatedly invaded and captured by nomadic groups during the Jin Dynasty (265-420). Initially they settled in Fujian province, yet unfortunately it seems tragedy was doomed to follow them! They were uprooted again during the 13th century when Kublai Khan and his Mongol army invaded the area, which is when they finally moved to the sparsely populated Chaoshan region. At first, it seemed they were safe in their new home, but fate had more trouble in store for the Teochew!

After the First Opium War (1839-1842), the coastal regions in which the Teochew lived were ravaged by bandits and plagued with famine. Many Teochew people decided to immigrate abroad via one of the four treaty ports established along the southern coast, so that they could enjoy a better quality of life and send money back home to their families. It is these people that served as the ancestors for the Teochew diaspora that we find throughout the world today. In fact, due to this mass migration, the Teochew people are now the second largest ethnic group in Singapore!    

Like most sub-groups of the Han ethnic majority, the Teochew people have their own distinct language and culture. In fact, the dialect that they speak is widely considered to be the oldest and most well-preserved of all the Chinese languages. This is largely because the dialect spoken by the Han Chinese living in northern China was influenced by the languages of the Mongolian people, who ruled during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), and the Manchu people, who ruled during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). The Teochew people, who were living down south by this point and were thus not as heavily impacted by these changes, were able to preserve a more primitive version of the language. That being said, the Teochew dialect is not a uniform language and there is thus substantial variation between different Teochew communities. In their own dialect, the Teochew people refer to themselves as “gaginan,” which translates to mean “my own people.” 

In the Chaoshan region, Teochew culture has been fiercely preserved and ancestor worship in particular plays an important role in daily life. Many elderly members of the Teochew community believe that their departed ancestors are capable of protecting them from danger and misfortune, while simultaneously blessing them with wealth and other boons. Throughout the year, clan elders will lead other descendants through rituals to show reverence to the deceased at ancestral tombs, particularly on special occasions such as the Qingming or “Tomb Sweeping” Festival.

On dates of minor significance, the family will make modest offerings to their ancestors, including bowls of steamed rice, cups of tea, incense, and baskets of fruit. On the more important occasions, however, lavish offerings such as whole roasted pigs and goats are paraded through the streets before being placed on the ancestral shrine. During these grand rituals, firecrackers will be lit, a band of drums and wind instruments will be playing as loudly as possible, and the family may even hire a professional emcee to announce the festivities. 

Alongside ancestor worship, the Teochew people are well-known for their style of opera, music, tea culture, and woodcarving. Teochew Opera, also known as Chaozhou Opera, has a history that stretches back over 500 years ago and was heavily influenced by Nanxi Opera, which is one of the oldest styles in China and dates all the way back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279). This style of opera is well-known for its fan dances and acrobatics, which add a touch of vivacity to each performance.

Traditional Teochew music often serves as the accompaniment for these performances and is based predominantly on plucked or bowed string instruments and wind instruments. Each ensemble typically utilises three different types of two-stringed bowed lutes known as the rihin, tihu, and yehu, along with a plethora of other traditional instruments, such as the pipa (a four-stringed plucked lute), the erhu (a two-stringed bowed fiddle), and the guzheng (a 21-stringed zither). In order to keep the music as even as possible, it is common to only have one of each instrument within an ensemble. 

The best place to hear traditional Teochew music, however, is arguably in one of the many teahouses scattered throughout the Chaoshan region. It is widely believed that a traditional style of tea ceremony known as Gongfu Tea originated from Chaoshan and it has become an integral part of tea culture for the Teochew people. This ritual method can theoretically be used to prepare any type of tea, but the Teochew people have a preference for a type of oolong tea known as Tieguanyin or “Iron Buddha.” It is conventional for Teochew people to enjoy a cup of tea before and after every meal, and no Teochew home would be complete without a traditional tea-set. 

Drinking bittersweet tea such as Tieguanyin after a meal is also believed by the Teochew people to be a palate cleanser, as several signature dishes in Teochew cuisine utilise pork lard. That being said, Teochew cuisine, more commonly known as Chaoshan cuisine, is renowned for its freshness and quality of ingredients. They rarely use oil or stir-frying techniques, and instead prefer to braise or steam ingredients in order to enhance their natural flavour. Since Chaoshan is a coastal region, it should come as no surprise that seafood is an integral part of Chaoshan cuisine. In particular, the oyster omelette is a beloved snack that can be found at any night market in Chaoshan.  

The attention to detail and quality in their cuisine is matched only by their woodcarving, which is breathtakingly intricate and is often incorporated into traditional Teochew buildings. This style of woodcarving dates all the way back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and typically features tableaus from ancient daily life, such as imperial scholars musing under trees or wealthy families enjoying an evening of festivities. 

Get more stories about Teochew people on our travel: Explore the Ancient Fortresses of Southeast China

Jingdezhen

The sprawling city of Jingdezhen is perhaps better known throughout the world as the “Porcelain Capital” of China. For over 1,000 years, it has been renowned as the production centre for the finest quality Chinese ceramics in the country and its well-documented history of porcelain artisanship stretches back for more than 2,000 years. Although Jingdezhen did not become a major manufacturer of imperial porcelain until the Song Dynasty (960-1279), historical documents indicate that it was producing pottery as early as the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), when it was a market town known as Xinping. Situated along the banks of the shimmering Chang River, it was renamed to Changnan or “South of the Chang” during the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

In fact, it wasn’t given the illustrious name Jingdezhen until 1004, which represented a major turning point in the town’s history. “Jingdezhen” literally translates to mean “Town of Jingde” and refers to the reign of Emperor Zhenzong, which was known as the Jingde era. It was honoured with this name because it was during the Jingde era that Jingdezhen truly became famous throughout China for its porcelain wares. In fact, even though Jingdezhen was upgraded to the status of “city” after 1949, it still retains its original name in homage to its heritage.

The sudden boom in the quality and production of porcelain is typically attributed to the advent of the Jin invasion, as talented ceramic workers from the north were forced south due to warfare and took refuge in Jingdezhen. When the imperial capital was finally moved south to Lin’an (modern-day Hangzhou) after the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234) annexed northern China, Jingdezhen’s reputation as a major trading and production hub for ceramics was solidified.

It was during the Song period that Jingdezhen became particularly famous for a type of porcelain known as Qingbai (青白) or “Blueish-white” ware. This is not to be confused with the later blue-and-white style of porcelain, as Qingbai ware is not bicolour and is instead characterised by its solid white colour with a blueish tint. This style of porcelain was simply decorated by delicately carving or incising patterns into the surface, rather than painting patterns onto the porcelain. Arguably one of the most famous pieces of Qingbai porcelain is known as the Fonthill Vase, which was crafted in Jingdezhen during the 14th century and is the earliest documented piece of Chinese porcelain to have reached Europe.

While the traditional blue-and-white porcelain that Jingdezhen has become famous for reached its peak production during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the trend was actually started and rose to popularity during the Yuan Dynasty! This is simply because the Mongolian people, who controlled China at the time, were enamored with this colour scheme, as the colours of blue and white carried deep significance in Mongolian culture.

The traditional blue-and-white porcelain produced during the Yuan Dynasty
A collection of British Museum

It was during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), however, that Jingdezhen reached its apotheosis as the official centre for imperial porcelain production and large quantities of blue-and-white porcelain were manufactured. It was during this dynasty that official imperial kilns were established at Pearl Hill in Jingdezhen. By 1402, Jingdezhen was home to twelve imperial kilns and was one of only three areas in the country that had been granted this privilege. Although these kilns were controlled by and limited exclusively to the Emperor, the imperial court generated a surprisingly large demand for porcelain.

Alongside the main palaces and imperial residences, there were the regional courts of princes, imperial temples, monasteries, and shrines that all needed to be supplied with well-crafted porcelain on a reasonably regular basis. On top of this, the Emperor also required a substantial supply of porcelain to give as gifts. For example, in 1433, the palace placed a single order for 443,500 pieces of porcelain! In order to meet this demand, the imperial kilns hired hundreds of workers, whose duties were separated depending on their specialty. 

According to regulations dating back to 1899, the Emperor was entitled to 1,014 pieces of yellow porcelain per year and his mother the Empress Dowager Cixi was permitted 821. By contrast, a concubine of the first rank was given 121 pieces of yellow porcelain with a white interior, while concubines of the second rank had to settle for yellow porcelain that had been decorated with green dragons. These porcelain wares were not simply for decoration; the amount and style of the porcelain also served to demonstrate the imperial rank of their owner. Since yellow was the colour of the imperial household, the amount of pure yellow in a piece of porcelain indicated how high the owner’s status was. 

Tragically, the fall of the Ming Dynasty and the rebellion of Wu Sangui in 1675 heralded destruction for Jingdezhen. Immediately thereafter, however, the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) took great pains to rebuild the town and founded a government ceramics factory in place of the previous imperial kilns. Thanks to the work of three accomplished directors, known as Zang Yingxuan, Nian Xiyao, and Tang Ying, ceramics production in Jingdezhen once again rose to the finest quality. Porcelain produced during this time was also marked by its adventurous nature, as ceramicists had unprecedented freedom and access to resources that allowed them to use new patterns and styles.

It was during the Qing Dynasty that famille-style porcelain rose to popularity, which was characterised by its use of various colour “families” and was named after the dominant colour. For example, famille rose porcelain utilised various shades of pink and famille verte porcelain focused largely on the colour green. The copying of famous porcelain wares from previous dynasties was also popularised during the Qing Dynasty. All 9,000 original kilns in Jingdezhen were tragically destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion (1850-1864) and weren’t rebuilt until after 1866. The town’s popularity, however, rarely waned, and it even served as the main producer of porcelain badges and statues of Mao Zedong during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976).

To this day, Jingdezhen remains one of the major producers of porcelain in China and antique porcelain from Jingdezhen is prized by collectors throughout the world. The highest price ever achieved for a piece of porcelain was for a blue-and-white porcelain jar produced in Jingdezhen during the Yuan Dynasty, which sold in 2005 for a whopping 230 million yuan (over 25 million pounds or 32 million dollars). To put that into perspective, that’s enough money to buy roughly 100 Ferrari sports’ cars!

In spite of its remote and mountainous location, one of the main reasons why Jingdezhen flourished as a centre for porcelain production was due to its proximity to high quality deposits of kaolin or china clay, petuntse or porcelain stone, coal, manganese, and lime. It was surrounded by pine forests, which provided wood for the kilns, and it was located close to a river, meaning that its fragile wares could be easily transported throughout the country by boat. Alongside the domestic market, there was huge demand for porcelain to be exported from Jingdezhen to Japan, all of Southeast Asia, and much of the Middle East. In fact, the large round serving-plates that were produced in Jingdezhen were exclusively for the Middle Eastern market, as Chinese people would traditionally use bowls instead of plates. 

Nowadays, the ideal place to connect with Jingdezhen’s venerable legacy of porcelain production is at the Jingdezhen Ceramics Museum and the Jingdezhen Ceramics Folk Museum. Just try not to get the two confused! The Jingdezhen Ceramics Museum is the first museum in the world to be dedicated solely to exhibitions about ceramics. It is currently separated into two sections: one section hosting modern ceramics; and one section exhibiting ancient ceramics. By contrast, the Jingdezhen Ceramics Folk Museum is actually a sprawling complex made up of several workshops, where visitors can witness first-hand how ceramics are moulded, fired, and painted in Jingdezhen following traditional methods.

Alongside the museums, Jingdezhen is also home to a wide variety of specialist markets, where visitors can browse the work of local ceramicists and even purchase some for themselves. Among the multifarious markets in Jingdezhen, the four most famous are Tao Yi Street, the Tao Xi Chuan Market, the Ming Qing Yuan Market, and the Ghost Market. Tao Yi Street is unsurprisingly a street where established artists from the area own their own shops and art studios. It is home to some of the most beautiful ceramics boutiques in Jingdezhen and the works sold along this street are of the finest quality, which naturally also makes it the most expensive place to buy ceramics!

By contrast, the Tao Xi Chuan Market is an open air flea market designed to provide exposure for young ceramists. The market is strictly organized by both the local government and a local culture management company, who work in tandem to help art students and local artists sell their works. All ceramists who want to exhibit their works at the market have to first go through an intense vetting procedure, where they submit a portfolio online. The market organizer selects only the most impressive portfolios and offers these ceramists the opportunity to sell their wares at Tao Xi Chuan. Like Tao Xi Chuan, the Ming Qing Yuan market is a flea market that is designed to help local artists exhibit their wares. However, the vetting procedure for Ming Qing Yuan is not as strict as that of Tao Xi Chuan, so you may find that the products won’t be of as high a standard.

Unlike the aforementioned markets, the Ghost Market is a very traditional type of market that isn’t strictly dedicated to ceramics and instead offers an abundance of different antiques. It is the oldest market in Jingdezhen and was originally started so that people could trade antiques back when it was illegal to do so during the early years of Communist rule. This is why the market was and continues to be held in the early hours of Monday morning, under cover of darkness! This market offers a variety of relics, including Communist paraphernalia, old coins, and jade ornaments. However, you must be particularly careful when shopping there, as there are numerous fake antiques that are mixed up with the authentic ones, and it is remarkably difficult to tell them apart. After all, you wouldn’t want to end up feeling haunted by a bad purchase!

Make your dream trip to Jingdezhen come true on our travel: Explore Traditional Culture in Picturesque Ancient Villages

The Xumi Mountain Grottoes

Dating all the way back to the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–535), the Xumi Mountain Grottoes are classed as one of the 10 most culturally significant Buddhist grottoes in China. On the eastern edge of Mount Xumi, eight red sandstone cliffs are speckled with over 160 hand-carved caves, 70 of which contain magnificent carvings, colourful murals, spectacular frescoes, and delicate inscriptions. The site’s star attraction is a 20-metre (65 ft.) tall statue of Maitreya[1] Buddha, who looks wistfully out into the surrounding countryside. To put that into perspective, it’s about four times as tall as an adult giraffe! However, there’s more to this scenic site than just one (very) big Buddha. 

Although the complex was originally built during the Northern Wei Dynasty, its construction spans five dynastic eras, as it was periodically added to right up until the Tang Dynasty (618-907). The grottoes are located along the Silk Road, which was integral to the dissemination of Buddhism in China. Their location along this trade route is palpable in the Indian and Central Asian motifs that appear in many of the sculptures and paintings. Grotto No. 33, with its square layout and partition wall punctuated by three portals, is a typical example of this, as it greatly resembles a traditional Indian temple. As time went on, the grottoes that were added and the art within them became distinctly more Chinese in style, demonstrating the gradual Sinification of Buddhism in China. 

The mountain’s name, “Xumishan” or “Mount Xumi”, is actually the Chinese variation of the Sanskrit word for Mount Sumeru, the cosmic mountain that rests at the centre of the universe according to Buddhism. It was originally known as Mount Fengyi, but this spiritual rebranding was thought to be a ploy to encourage more monks to travel to the site, live there, and help carve more grottoes. Talk about false advertising! Many of the caves have virtually no decorative elements and it is believed that they were used to house the resident monks. 

Nowadays the site has been separated into five main areas: Dafo or “Big Buddha” Tower, Zisun Palace, Yuanguang Temple, Xiangguo Temple, and Taohua Cave. Grottoes No. 45 and 46 are some of the most noteworthy, since they contain the largest number of statues, 40 of which are taller than the average person. Grotto No. 14 is believed to be the oldest and contains statues and paintings dating back to the early Northern Wei Dynasty. Though primitive in design and colour, they are resplendent in their simplistic beauty. Much of the statuary in this grotto resembles that of the famous Yungang Grottoes in Shanxi province and the Mogao Caves in Gansu province. 

Unfortunately, in spite of being designated a National Level Cultural Relic Protected Site in 1982, the Xumi Mountain Grottoes are currently at risk. Wind and sand erosion, unstable rock beds, earthquakes, and vandalism have already caused irreparable damage to the caves, and a recent study suggests that only about 10 per cent of them are in decent condition. The extent of the damage has led to the grottoes being listed as one of the Top 100 Most Endangered Historical Sites in the world. So be sure to catch them while you can, or risk missing out on this treasure trove of ancient Buddhist art!

[1]  Maitreya: In the Buddhist tradition, Maitreya is a bodhisattva who will appear on Earth sometime in the future and achieve complete enlightenment. He will be the successor to the present Buddha, Gautama Buddha, and is thus regarded as a sort of future Buddha.

Shantou

Lying at the mouth of the powerful Han River and gazing out at the sparkling South China Sea, the city of Shantou is awash with stunning natural scenery. Its prime location meant that it swiftly became one of the most important maritime trading hubs in Chinese history, when it was referred to as “Swatow” or “Santow” by foreign travellers. It was not, however, always a bustling hub of international trade. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Shantou was just a small fishing village where locals lived a simple yet tranquil life. It wasn’t until 1858, when it was designated as a treaty port, that Shantou rose to become a major centre for transport and commerce. Shantou may have started out as the ugly duckling on the river bank, but it quickly transformed into a beautiful swan!

The treaty ports occupy a somewhat controversial place in Chinese history, as they were largely the result of foreign aggression and pressure that was exerted on the imperial government. During the early Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the imperial government limited trade with foreign countries to the city of Guangzhou, in an attempt to curtail foreign influence. After the Qing Dynasty’s defeat during the Second Opium War (1856-1860), however, the imperial government were forced to sign a series of unequal treaties with several foreign countries, including Britain, the US, and France, which granted them access to ports throughout the country. It was in this way that Shantou was introduced to the rest of the world. 

By the 1930s, Shantou boasted an enormous trading network of junk boats that connected to ports throughout the provinces of Fujian and Guangdong, making it the second most important port in southeast China after Guangzhou. It was well-known for transporting exports of sugar, fruit, canned goods, and marine products. Thanks to its direct access to overseas trade, Shantou quickly became one of the main ports via which Chinese emigrants moved abroad to places as far flung as North America and Europe. Estimates indicate that between 1880 and 1909 around 2.5 million locals left Shantou to start a new life overseas. To put that into perspective, that’s more than the entire population of Paris!

In fact, Shantou advanced so rapidly during this period that in 1906 it became one of the first places in China to obtain a railway line. It seems that sometimes technology cannot replace nature, as the railway failed to overtake the river as the primary transportation system in the area and it gradually fell into disrepair. Shantou may have been rising to new heights but, as with every rise, there inevitably comes a fall! During the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), the port was severely damaged by a series of bombardments and was eventually captured in 1939, remaining under Japanese control until the end of the war. Shantou was, however, destined to bounce back, as it was named a special economic zone in 1981 and is now connected to over 200 trading ports around the world! 

Today, the city is home to stunning works of architecture that continue to link it to its multi-cultural past. In particular, the Shantou Old Town is home to a special style of architecture known as a Qilou. Qilou, also known as Tong Lau, became hugely popular throughout many regions in southern China, such as Guangdong province, Fujian province, Macau, and Hong Kong, during the late 19th century.

The style originated from the bustling city of Guangzhou, which was a commercial port used frequently for foreign trade. You may be surprised to find, however, that there are actually more surviving Qilou in Shantou than in Guangzhou! The foreign influence on this style of architecture is palpable, as it resembles a perfect intermingling of traditional Chinese and Western styles of architecture. Admiring the elegant Qilou is widely considered to be the highlight of any trip to Shantou.

As a city that has become intricately linked with the sea, it should come as no surprise that the most popular deity in Shantou is Mazu, the protective goddess of sailors and seafarers. There is a small temple dedicated to Mazu, where locals go to pray before they take any journey, regardless of whether it’s by boat or not. The temple itself was designed in the typical South Min-style, with the characteristic ceramic figures on the roof eaves and various ornate decorations. Its location in the old part of the city makes it an ideal place to stop and enjoy a tranquil rest after a day of exploration.

Queshi Park, which is connected to the city by Queshi Bridge, is heralded as one of the most scenic spots in Shantou and once served as the site of the American, German, and British consulates. This expansive park is dotted with an intoxicating mixture of elegant temples, lush greenery, azure waters, and sandy beaches. Its location offshore means that, from the outside, it looks like a miniature garden floating in the sea. Hike up one of its 43 granite peaks and you’ll be rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic view of the city itself. 

Alongside Queshi Park, Shantou is also home to Zhongshan Park, which was established during the 1920s to demonstrate the expertise of southern Chinese gardeners. As guests enter under the six-pillar gate bedecked with red lanterns, they’ll be greeted by the Chinese characters “Tian Xia Wei Gong” (天下为公) or “The World Belongs to Us All”, a phrase famously coined by the politician Sun Yat-sen. Much like Queshi Park, this beautiful scenic spot is surrounded by water on all sides and is connected to the city by three bridges.

The city is also home to a dizzying variety of museums and historic sites, such as the Shantou Museum and the highly controversial Cultural Revolution Museum. The most famous of these historical sites, however, is arguably Chen Cihong’s Mansion. This luxurious complex was constructed by a business magnate named Chen Cihong, who originated from Shantou. He amassed his vast fortune throughout Hong Kong and Bangkok during the 19th century, but always returned to his hometown of Shantou in order to construct mansions for his family and contribute to the local economy by investing in public welfare projects, such as building roads and funding local schools. The largest of these mansions, which once served as his residence, has been opened to the public and decked with elegant period furnishings. A stroll through its 506 rooms offers an unparalleled insight into what life was like for those Chinese businessmen lucky enough to make their fortune overseas.

Shantou’s final claim to fame is undoubtedly its strangest, as its location on the Tropic of Cancer resulted in the construction of the Symbolic Tower of the Tropic of Cancer in 1986. This 13-metre (45 ft.) high tower culminates in a tall plinth that has been carved in the shape of the character “北” or “north”, atop which rests a model globe of the Earth. A steel pipe runs directly through the centre of the globe and was placed there specifically due a phenomenon that takes place during the Summer Solstice. On the day of the solstice, the sun sits directly above the Tropic of Cancer and sunlight shines through the steel pipe, meaning that the tower itself casts no shadow for a brief period of time.

That being said, it is not only Shantou’s historic sites and splendid gardens that continue to attract the tourist crowds. The city is known as a haven of Teochew culture and the centre of Teochew Opera, since the majority of the population of Shantou is Teochew. While the Teochew people are officially considered to be a sub-group of the Han ethnic majority, their language is distinct from Mandarin Chinese and their culture is vastly different from that of the Han people. Unlike the well-known Peking style of opera, the Teochew style of opera is sung in a much more natural voice and will thus be more familiar to those with a preference for European styles of opera. This 500-year-old style incorporates fan dances and acrobatic displays into each performance, making it a spectacle not to be missed!

The Teochew people are also particularly renowned for their exquisite cuisine and their love of drinking tea. Shantou in particular is famed throughout China for Teochew dishes that revolve around a special breed known as the lion-head goose, which is larger than most breeds and has been raised in Shantou for centuries. Don’t let the name worry you; this goose’s roar is much worse than its bite!

Explore more about Shantou with us on the unique travel: Explore the Ancient Fortresses of Southeast China

Chikan

The picturesque town of Chikan represents the historic heart of Kaiping County and rests just 12 kilometres (7 mi) from the city centre of Kaiping itself. The town was originally founded in 1649 and immediately rose to become one of the most important maritime trading hubs in the region due to its proximity to the Tan River, which is part of the well-known Pearl River Delta. From the late 19th century until the early 20th century, this convenient transport link meant that Chikan swiftly ascended to become a major maritime trading hub and centre for emigration, as many locals were prompted to head overseas due to population pressure and poverty. 

Thanks to the combined effort of wealthy local merchants and emigrants who made their fortune overseas, Chikan benefited from an influx of investment during the early 20th century and rapidly rose to become one of the largest and most prosperous market towns in southern China. In short, they were the original rags to riches story! By the 1930s, there were nearly 1,000 shops operating in this bustling market town. While the Tan River has since become impassable, the town is now famed for its beautifully preserved Qilou and Diaolou. There are currently over 600 Qilou and around 200 Diaolou in Chikan, the most noteworthy of which are Jinghui Lou, Yinglong Lou, and Nan Lou.

Jinghui Lou is a Qilou that served as the former residence of a man named Zhang Jinghui, who was celebrated for his talents as a medical clinician and rose to fame during the early 20th century. After his death, this Qilou was converted into a museum so that his legacy may live on. More importantly, it will hopefully save him from being confused with the Zhang Jinghui of Liaoning province, who was a ruthless warlord that served the Japanese puppet state of Manchukuo during the World War II. Talk about an unfavourable comparison!

The Qilou in Chikan

Yinglong Lou or “Greeting the Dragon Tower”, by contrast, is not technically located in Chikan, but can be found in the village of Sanmenli, which is considered part of Chikan township. It is one of the oldest surviving Diaolou in China and was built by the Guan clan during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Unlike the Diaolou that were built during the 20th century, Yinglong Lou is a colossal three-storey rectangular fortress that is almost purely Chinese in style and incorporates few features from Western styles of architecture. It was rebuilt in 1919 with grey bricks and a new roof was added, giving the old fortress a well-deserved makeover! 

Finally, Nan Lou is another defensive Diaolou that serves as a testament to the vicious nature of the Second Sino-Japanese War. Seven members of the Situ clan fought off the Japanese invasion of Chikan atop Nan Lou for 7 consecutive days before they were forced to surrender. They were only captured and killed by the Japanese once soldiers fired poisonous gas into the building. A memorial monument was built on the banks of the Tan River in their honour. 

In fact, the Situ clan and the Guan clan played an integral role in the historic development of Chikan. Their relationship, however, was not without its controversy! The Situ and the Guan resided on the upper and lower reaches of the Tan River respectively and were notorious for their ferocious rivalry, as they were in constant competition with each other. One of the greatest examples of this rivalry took place in 1923, when the Situ clan spent over 30,000 silver dollars building a public library known as “Situ’s Library”. Not to be outdone, the Guan clan matched this feat by constructing a library of their own, known as “Guan’s Library”, which was opened to the public in 1931. While you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, evidently these clans were hoping to be judged favorably by their libraries!

With the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the influence of these two clans began to wane and, by 1958, both of their libraries had been converted into government offices. They were tragically abandoned after 1968 and many locals were devastated as they watched these two historic buildings slowly fall to ruin. Fortunately, members of the two clans that lived in Kaiping petitioned the local government and campaigned for funding. Thanks to their persistence, the two libraries were renovated and re-opened to the public during the 1980s.

Nowadays, the town is considered so scenic that part of it was converted into “Chikan Studio City” or “Chikan Movie and Television City”, which is a popular set for Chinese filmmakers. Several martial arts epics, including The Grandmaster and Drunken Master II, have at least been partially filmed in Chikan. It is also conveniently located between the magnificent Li Garden and the Diaolou of Majianglong, making it the ideal location to visit some of the most renowned works of ancient architecture in southern China. Unfortunately, however, the town is currently undergoing renovation as part of a government initiative. Now may be your last chance to see it in its original condition before it is transformed into just another tourist attraction!

Explore more about Chikan with us on the unique travel: Explore the Ancient Fortresses of Southeast China

Guangzhou

According to ancient legend, there was once a town in Guangdong province that suffered through a great famine. On the brink of starvation, the locals prayed to the gods for help. Suddenly, the clouds broke open and five celestial beings, each carrying a sheave of rice, descended from heaven riding five rams. They offered the sheaves to the people and taught them how to farm rice. When they finally returned to heaven, their trusted rams turned to stone and stayed in the town as a testament to the tale. From then on, the town prospered and the locals wanted for nothing. 

In time, this small town would transform to become the third largest city in China: Guangzhou, the provincial capital of Guangdong province. It is nicknamed the “City of Rams” and the image of the five rams has become iconic, gracing everything from public statues to business logos. The original stone rams can supposedly be found at the Taoist Temple of the Five Immortals, where they rest in perpetual tranquillity among the ornate temple halls and lush floral gardens. So, if Los Angeles is America’s City of Angels, then Guangzhou is China’s City of Immortals!

The city was originally founded during the Spring and Autumn Period (c. 771-476 BC) under the name Nanwu. It didn’t receive the name Guangzhou until 226 AD, when it had already blossomed into a large and wealthy trading port. Its location along the Pearl River made it one of the most important ports in southern China and a major stop along the maritime Silk Road. Even during the Mongol conquest, the city still found a way to make the best of a bad situation! 

Although it suffered much destruction during the initial turmoil, its economy surged during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) thanks to the Mongolians’ ardent support of maritime trade. This good fortune was soon to reverse during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), when the Hongwu Emperor retracted his support of foreign trade and imposed a number of maritime trade bans. When the Portuguese sent their first embassy to Guangzhou during the early 1500s, they were forced to conduct much of their trade illegally. By the time the Dutch and the British arrived in the 17th century, foreign trade in China was still being carried out in secret. 

While the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) were more lenient and open to trade with their foreign friends, tensions soon began to rise in 1757 when they established the Canton System. This dictated that all foreign trade must take place in Guangzhou, so that the government could easily monitor and control the trade industry. Guangzhou swiftly developed into one of the world’s foremost trading ports, but the political atmosphere was rife with discontent. Foreign traders found the restrictions placed upon them irksome and unnecessary.  

The breaking point came in 1839, when the Qing government seized and destroyed large quantities of British opium, and effectively triggered the First Opium War (1839-1842). After a humiliating defeat, the Qing Emperor was forced to sign the Treaty of Nanjing with Britain, which opened up a number of ports across the country to foreign trade. Almost overnight, Guangzhou had lost its privileged status as the sole trading port. By the end of the Second Opium War (1856-1860), large parts of Guangzhou had been carved out as foreign concessions and the city was virtually unrecognisable. The small town in the mountains of Guangdong had transformed into a bustling, multinational metropolis. 

From 1895 until 1925, Guangzhou’s most illustrious citizen came to the fore: Sun Yat-sen[1]. His campaign to abolish imperial rule in China culminated in the Guangzhou Uprising of 1911, which paved the way for the Xinhai Revolution later that year. He made Guangzhou the base of his operations and it was in this city that, under his tutelage, political giants such as Chiang Kai-shek, Zhou Enlai, and Mao Zedong began their careers. 

Its revolutionary days may be behind it, but nowadays Guangzhou is still heralded as a major centre for commerce. Its annual Canton Fair, which has been held every year since 1957, is the oldest and largest trade fair in China. Attracting business owners and entrepreneurs from across the globe, it is a testament to the city’s undeniable allure. However, there’s much more to Guangzhou than shimmering skyscrapers and lively shopping districts. 

Sprawling areas of verdant greenery such as Baiyun Mountain, Nansha Wetland Park, and Yuexiu Park have earned it the nickname “City of Flowers”, while the traditional Xiguan Residences of Liwan District and the Western-style colonial mansions on Shamian Island add a touch of intrigue to the cityscape. Guangzhou’s multi-ethnic past is attested to by its many religious buildings, from the Buddhist Temple of the Six Banyan Trees to the Roman Catholic Sacred Heart Cathedral. The Huaisheng Mosque, which was originally built over 1,300 years ago, is widely considered to be the oldest of its kind in China and one of the oldest mosques in the world. 

Historically speaking, the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall and Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall make for an interesting mix, acting as proof of the city’s ancient origins and its revolutionary significance. The Chen Clan Ancestral Hall is a magnificent academic temple built by the Chen family during the Qing Dynasty, while the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall is a relatively modern construction that was built in honour of Sun Yat-sen. 

Alongside these glorious attractions, Guangzhou is renowned throughout China for its mouth-watering cuisine and vibrant nightlife. Sample some of the finest Cantonese dim sum, marvel at a performance of Cantonese opera, or simply soak in the scenery on an evening cruise down the Pearl River. When it comes to this lively city, you’ll certainly have to ram a lot into your schedule! 

[1] Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925): A Chinese revolutionary who played an instrumental role in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, abolishing imperial rule and founding the Republic of China. He became the first president of China in 1912.

Explore more about Guangzhou with us on the unique travel: Explore the Ancient Fortresses of Southeast China

The Yulin Grottoes

On the shimmering banks of the Yulin River, the cliff-faces on either bank appear to be punctured with a myriad of small holes. Look a little closer, however, and you’ll discover that these small holes are filled with some of the most beautiful works of Buddhist art in China! The Yulin Grottoes, also known as the Valley of Ten Thousand Buddhas, are a collection of 42 hand-carved caves that contain over 250 Buddhist statues and a staggering 4,200 square metres (45,208 sq. ft.) of colourful murals. The name “yulin” (榆林) or “elm tree” is derived from the jade-hued elm trees that line the bank of the river, which endow the area with a picturesque beauty. It is easy to see how this verdant place inspired Buddhist monks to produce such magnificent works of art. This grotto complex is intimately connected to the nearby Mogao Caves, which have been heralded as one of the Four Grand Groups of Grottoes in China. The Yulin Grottoes may not have earned a fancy title, but they are certainly no less magnificent!

The first few caves were initially carved during the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-535 AD), but the complex was renovated and added to right up until the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Arguably the grottoes most unique feature is that it contains grottoes that were constructed during the Western Xia Dynasty (1038–1227), in particular grottoes number 2 and 3. Historians know very little about this mysterious empire, which was ruled by an ethnic group known as the Tanguts. The scenes depicted in these grottoes provide an unparalleled insight into what Tangut culture was like and have given historians invaluable examples of the Tangut language, which is related to the language of the Qiang ethnic minority. While their language may resemble that of the Qiang ethnic minority, the Tanguts actually belonged to a Turkic ethnic group known as the Xianbei, who occupied large parts of north and northwestern China. In fact, the Xianbei people had originally spoken a Turkic language, but adopted the Qiangic language after conquering and absorbing several Qiang tribes. You could argue that it was one of the earliest examples of cultural appropriation!

What makes these grottoes still more exceptional is that, alongside scenes of Buddhist significance, the murals within some of the grottoes contain secular images, such as tableaus of people making wine, playing musical instruments, dancing, milking cows, playing games, or getting married. Within these scenes, you can witness the traditional dress of several ethnic groups who inhabited this region throughout Chinese history. According to archaeologists, these spectacular murals would have been painted using brushes made from rabbit’s hair and the deep richness of colour would have been achieved by grinding valuable minerals, such as red ochre, cinnabar, and lapis lazuli. 

In terms of layout, each cave is typically formed of an entrance corridor, an antechamber, and a main chamber. The 25th grotto, which was originally constructed during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), is perhaps the most famous and emblematic among the many splendid caves within the grotto complex. It is distinctly Tibetan in terms of art style and it contains a vivid mural that depicts eight different bodhisattvas within the Buddhist canon, including the Vairocana Buddha, Maitreya (the Laughing Buddha), and Manjusri Bodhisattva. In the 29th grotto, there is a breath-taking mural depicting the pilgrimage that the monk Xuanzang took to acquire Buddhist scriptures, while the 2nd grotto is home to a similarly stunning mural of Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, sitting calmly atop Luojia Mountain. On the east wall of the 3rd grotto, a mural depicting the One-Thousand-Armed Guanyin demonstrates the level of scientific development that had occurred at the time of its painting, since Guanyin is shown holding a variety of advanced tools in her many hands. While the grottoes’ artistic value is undeniable, they have also been integral to mapping out the history of the region and understanding the complexities of multi-ethnic life in this remote region of China. 

The Huaqing Hot Springs

The Huaqing Hot Springs are a complex of hot springs located at the northern foot of Mount Li in Shaanxi province, just 30 kilometres (19 mi) east of Xi’an. Thanks to its unusual shape, Mount Li or Mount “Black Horse” supposedly looks like a black horse galloping through the fields. With all of the unexpected popularity that it currently enjoys, you could almost say that Mount Li is the dark horse of the Qin Mountains! Its natural beauty, coupled with the stunning architecture of the hot springs, makes this scenic spot undeniably alluring. However, it’s not just its aesthetic charm that attracts visitors, but also its captivating history. 

During the Western Zhou Dynasty (c. 1046–771 BC), King You built the Li Palace at the base of Mount Li. This palace was expanded during the Qin (221-206 BC) and Han (206 BC–220 AD) dynasties, but didn’t reach its full prominence until the Tang Dynasty (618-907). Emperor Xuanzong of Tang spent huge sums of money expanding it, surrounding it with defensive walls and incorporating the nearby hot springs into its bath houses. He then renamed it Huaqing Palace and, over the course of his 44-year reign, would visit it over 36 times. In fact, he spent so long there that it eventually led to a full-scale rebellion!

His obsession with the palace began with his consort Yang Guifei [1], who was considered one of the Four Great Beauties of Ancient China and whose appearance was so striking that it supposedly put flowers to shame! Understandably Xuanzong was infatuated with her, so much so that he promoted her cousin, Yang Guozhong, to the position of imperial minister. Eventually Xuanzong began spending so much time at the palace with Consort Yang that he neglected his duties as emperor. Meanwhile, a cunning young general named An Lushan was amassing political power and was able to gain the patronage of the placable Emperor Xuanzong, which eventually led to him obtaining control of a 200,000-strong army. Since he was of Göktürk and Sogdian origin, he maintained amicable relations with several northern ethnic groups and convinced them to join forces with him. This set the foundation for the An Lushan Rebellion. 

In 755 AD, An Lushan captured the eastern capital of Luoyang and declared himself Emperor of the short-lived Great Yan Dynasty (756–763). As his forces advanced on the imperial capital of Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an), Xuanzong and the Tang court were forced to flee south. However, his guards believed the Yang family were responsible for An Lushan’s rise to power and assassinated Yang Guozhong. They then demanded that Xuanzong have Yang Guifei put to death. Reluctantly, he ordered his attendant Gao Lishi to strangle her, and this became the basis for Bai Juyi’s renowned poem “The Song of Unending Sorrow”. Although An Lushan was unsuccessful in his claim to power, his rebellion weakened the Tang Empire so greatly that historians believe it was at least partly, if not completely, responsible for the collapse of the dynasty.

Yet it seemed that this wouldn’t be the last rebellion to grace the Huaqing Hot Springs, as the site was also the scene of the infamous Xi’an Incident in 1936. From 1927 through till 1936, China was embroiled in a vicious civil war between the ruling Chinese Nationalist Party (the Kuomintang) and the Chinese Communist Party. The head of the CNP, Chiang Kai-shek, dedicated all of his energy and resources to campaigns against the CCP, in spite of pleas from his colleagues Zhang Xueliang and Yang Hucheng that he focus instead on amassing power to defend against the invading Japanese army. 

On December 12th 1936, Chiang Kai-shek was staying at the Huaqing Hot Springs and the warlord Zhang decided to grasp the opportunity. He instructed his army to open fire on the pavilion where Chiang was staying, but Chiang managed to escape through a window and leapt over the back wall. He was captured hours later on Mount Li, and the place where he was found is now marked by an iron chain and a pavilion. After nearly a month of being held hostage and taking part in intense negotiations, Chiang eventually agreed to an alliance with the CPC and the first Chinese Civil War ended. So you see, the Huaqing Hot Springs weren’t just a popular spa retreat, they were also a place of revolution. Maybe there really was something in the water after all!

Since much of the original palace was damaged during the An Lushan Rebellion, many of the structures you see today were either rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) or after 1949. On first entering the palace’s west gate, you’ll come upon the enchanting Nine Dragon Lake. Lotus flowers float delicately on the lake’s surface and a magnificent white marble statue of Yang Guifei is reflected in its waters. Just don’t stare at her for too long, or you might get branded a Peeping Tom!

Many of the surrounding pavilions were rebuilt in the Tang style, such as the Frost Flying Hall, Yichun Hall, Five Chamber Hall, and the Dragon Marble Boat. The Frost Flying Hall was once the bedroom of Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei, while the Five Chamber Hall was where Chiang Kai-shek stayed before he was captured and was also used by the infamous Empress Dowager Cixi as a refuge when the Eight-Nation Alliance captured Beijing in 1900. Evidently it wasn’t as great a hiding place as they all thought!

Yet no spa would be complete without a few luxury baths. There are a total of six bathing areas within the complex and each one had a different function. For example, the Lotus Pool was exclusively used by the Emperor and was named for its characteristic lotus-shape; the Haitang Pool is shaped like a Chinese crab-apple and was used by the Emperor’s concubines; and the Shangshi Pool was solely for the use of government officials. Nowadays the pools have been drained and cannot be used by visitors, so don’t go wearing your swimsuit under your clothes or you’ll be sorely disappointed!

  1. Guifei: During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), this was the highest rank that could be bestowed on an imperial consort.  

Huangya Pass

Winding its way through the mountains of Tianjin’s Ji County at an average altitude of 701 metres (2,300 ft.), Huangya or “Yellow Cliff” Pass represents one of the most integral yet overlooked sections of the Great Wall. Its unusual name is derived from the cliff rocks to the east of the pass, as they are mostly yellow in colour. At sunset, they are said to appear as though gilded in gold. The Huangya section actually stretches for a whopping 42 kilometres (26 mi), from Malan Pass in Hebei province to Jiangjun Pass in Beijing. As part of the Great Wall, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. 

It was originally constructed sometime during the Northern Qi Dynasty (550-577 AD), but was rebuilt and reinforced with bricks and towers by a military general named Qi Jiguang during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). As if that wasn’t enough, it was heavily renovated in 1984 as part of an incentive proposed by politician Deng Xiaoping to “Love China, Restore the Great Wall”. This colossal renovation project meant that over 3 kilometres (2 mi) of the Huangya section, including 20 watchtowers, one pass fort, and one gatehouse, were given a much-needed facelift! Nowadays, although it may not appear as authentic or “wild” as other parts of the Great Wall, Huangya Pass is the ideal place for a challenging historical hike without having to battle the tourist crowds.

Nicknamed the Eight Trigrams Fortification City, the pass is known for the 40 crisscrossing streets within its walls, which were designed after the shape of the Bagua(1) or “Eight Trigrams” symbol. At the centre of this labyrinthine system lies the Great Wall Museum, which once served as the Dispatcher’s Office during the Ming Dynasty. With spectacular exhibits of the weapons and items used by soldiers patrolling the Great Wall, it offers a fascinating insight into what life was like during the height of the wall’s importance.   The museum also highlights the strategic military significance that this stretch of the wall once held. Watchtowers form a focal part of this section. They are either solid or hollow and come in a variety of shapes, from round to square. 

While the watchtowers are a common feature throughout any part of the Great Wall, the Huangya Water Gate is reasonably unique to Huangya Pass. This giant bridge spanning the nearby river was built with five arches, which could be closed or opened in order to enable or impede the flow of water. During wartime, the arches would be closed and soldiers would settle gun barrels along the battlements of the bridge in order to defend against any enemy utilising the waterway. In short, Ming soldiers knew how to handle themselves during a water fight!

Another unusual feature of this section is the Huangya Sky Ladder, the steepest stairway along this stretch of wall. Its nickname derives from the fact that it appears to rise at an almost vertical slant and, from its base, it looks as though it leads straight to the sky! Once you’ve conquered this challenging climb, you’ll be treated to a panoramic view of a primitive stretch of the Great Wall that dates back to the Northern Qi Dynasty.

On the opposite end of the Huangya section, you’ll find Taipingzhai or the Taiping Mountain Stronghold. Spanning just 1,000 metres (3,281 ft.), it once played a focal role as a vital mountain fortress during the Ming Dynasty. A statue of Qi Jiguang marks the entrance, commemorating the general whose noble efforts helped to protect China’s northern borders. To the west of the main stronghold lies the Widow Tower, a two-storey square beacon tower that was built using funds donated by twelve widows whose husbands lost their lives while building the wall. If you look closely, you’ll notice intricate dragon’s head sculptures and statues of qilins (Chinese unicorns), phoenixes, and lions crouching on the eaves of its roof.

Although you can enter the Huangya section at the Huangya Pass entrance, it’s usually recommended that you start your hike from the Taiping Mountain Stronghold entrance, since the downhill slant will provide you with some respite from the wall’s mercilessly steep stairways. Once you reach the pass, which typically takes between two to three hours, there are plenty of farmhouses dotted about serving up fresh, rustic meals for weary hikers. If a leisurely pace is too slow for your speedy sensibilities, you can always consider taking part in the Great Wall Marathon!

Every year in May, a marathon race is held along the Huangya section of the Great Wall, with thousands of runners taking part annually. While there are now numerous marathons being held on other sections of the Great Wall, the Huangya marathon is one of the oldest and has been held since 1999. Over time, its popularity around the world meant it developed into an international event that is now acknowledged by the Association of International Marathons and Distance Races (AIMS). The full marathon covers the entire 42 kilometres (26 mi) of the Huangya section, although there is an optional half marathon, 10-kilometre (6 mi) run, 5-kilometre (3 mi) run, and child-friendly 8.5 kilometre (5 mi) Fun Run. If you think the run is too difficult, just remember: this was all in a day’s work for a Ming Dynasty soldier!  

(1) Bagua: The eight trigrams used in Taoist philosophy to represent the fundamental principles of reality. In their most simplified form, they symbolise the sky, the lakes, fire, thunder, wind, water, mountains and earth respectively.