Like the Hakka, the Hoklo people are not one of China’s 55 ethnic minorities but are also just a subgroup of the Han ethnic majority. They are sometimes referred to as Hokkien, Hokuro, Min-nan, or Hokkien Lang people and, in the same vein, their language can be referred to as Hoklo, Hokkien, Fukien, Amoy, Minnan, Min, Fujianese, and Taiwanese.

However, unlike the Hakka, there is no strong cultural identity linking the subgroups of Hoklo people and they have seemingly failed to hold on to any significant cultural traits. Some people are not even aware of their Hoklo heritage and, to this day, there is no standard Chinese term for “Hoklo”. Since many of them intermarried or assimilated with Hakka people or Taiwanese aborigines, the term “Hoklo” became more of a linguistic heritage.

Their language is a branch of Min-nan or “Southern Min” Chinese, which is a dialect that is mutually unintelligible to Eastern Min, Standard Chinese, and Cantonese. They are believed to have originated from lands bordering the Yellow River in northern and central China, much like the Hakka, and settled primarily in southern Fujian province, although communities of Hoklo people can be found in Guangdong and Hainan.

Nowadays most Hoklo people live in towns and cities, but a few still live in large earthen constructions known as Tulou. These fortress-like buildings were designed by the Hakka and are usually round or square in shape. They can be several stories high and were initially built to protect inhabitants from bandits and wild animals. Evidently the Hoklo knew a good thing when they saw it, because they took to these safe havens immediately!

However, by far the largest constituency of Hoklo people can be found in Taiwan, where they make up 70% of the population and are thus the ethnic majority. Hoklo Taiwanese is a term generally used to mean anyone whose ancestors emigrated from Fujian to Taiwan prior to 1949. In the north and south of Taiwan, there are two marginally different dialects of their language that point to their diverging origins. It is believed that the Hoklo people in the north originated from Quanzhou Prefecture and those in the south originated from Zhangzhou Prefecture. No matter how they got there, the Hoklo Taiwanese have developed their own unique culture that continues to thrive to this day!

 

Get more stories about Hoklo people on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

The musical roots of the magnificent Gulangyu Island are so deeply entrenched that even its name literally means “the islet of drumming waves”. Supposedly the sound of the ocean waves hitting the reefs sounds like the thundering of mighty drums, so Gulangyu is an island permanently permeated by natural music.

The island is located just southwest of Xiamen City and is sometimes colloquially referred to as “Piano Island” because, on such a small island with a population of just 20,000 people, there are a staggering 5,000 pianos and even a Piano Museum! To put that into perspective, that’s one piano for every four people. This unusual pastime, along with the bizarre colonial architecture and curious number of Christian churches, can only be explained by Gulangyu’s history.

After the First Opium War (1839–1842), China agreed to a pact known as the Treaty of Nanking with Great Britain, France, Japan, and 10 other countries. In this arrangement, Xiamen was named as one of the five seaports opened up to foreign trade. In 1903, Gulangyu Island was designated as an international foreign settlement, which allowed members of the 13 partner countries to settle, build houses, start their own businesses, and control the administration of the island.

During this time many colonial-style mansions, churches, and hospitals were established throughout the island and are some of the only buildings of their kind throughout China. Along with the unusual style of architecture, newcomers to the island also brought with them their love of Western instruments and many of their competitive sports. After all, if the islanders won’t go to the piano, the piano must go to them!

Nowadays the island is almost completely pedestrianized, as no vehicles are allowed except small electric buggies and a handful of fire engines. From designer furniture to bushels of fruit, all produce on the island is moved by handcart. The only way to access the island is via ferry, which can be caught from a number of ports in Xiamen. Just don’t try to skip the fare and swim across instead!

Sunlight Rock represents the island’s highest point and can be found in the south-central part of Gulangyu. With an altitude of just under 93 metres (304 ft.), it’s hardly vying for the top spot among China’s other mountains but does look particularly beautiful bathed in the soft light of the sunrise.

The Memorial Hall of Zheng Chenggong, also known as Koxinga, was built at the foot of the hill in honour of this war hero, who drove the Dutch colonists out of Taiwan in the 17^th century. The Dutch regard him more as a marauding pirate but, after all, history is written by the victors! As you scale this tiny peak, you’ll find poignant inscriptions engraved into the rock by poets, some of which date back over 400 years. At the summit, a breath-taking panorama of Xiamen City can be seen.

Many of the other attractions on the island were once simply residential houses, including Shuzhuang Garden, which was built in 1931 by a wealthy Taiwanese businessman named Lin Erjia, or Shu Zhuang to his friends. The garden was opened to the public in 1955 and serves as a perfect example of the three most important characteristics of Chinese gardening; hiding elements, borrowing from one’s surroundings, and different types of movement.

An example of a hidden element is the way in which the ocean remains covered even if you walk right up to the garden’s gate. Once you finally emerge from the bamboo forest, the stunning seascape is considered your reward. The term “borrowing from one’s surroundings” refers to the clever use of natural scenery in the garden, such as coral reefs and slopes that were organically formed before the garden was built. Yet, like your wayward neighbour, they’ve “borrowed” these elements for so long that it’s likely they’ll never give them back! Finally the interplay of connected caves and forests, intermingled with pavilions, encourages the different types of movement, from elders resting on benches to children rushing through the trees.

Within the garden, the island’s renowned Piano Museum can be found. The museum houses more than 100 beautiful pianos of all shapes and sizes that were donated by a Gulangyu local named Hou Youyi, who went on to study music at the Royal Conservatory of Brussels before eventually settling in Australia. Among them, you’ll find a street musician’s barrel piano from France and a stunning grand piano crafted in 1801 by composer Muzio Clementi.

Other highlights of the garden include the Forty-Four Bridge and a hidden cluster of sculptures designed after the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac. For the music aficionado, a complementary Organ Museum can be found on the northwest part of the island. Just don’t go in there expecting a new heart!

Alongside Shuzhuang Garden, the Haoyue or “Bright Moon” Garden is another local favourite located in the southeast of the island. The garden contains two magnificent statues of the national hero Zheng Chenggong, as it is believed he stationed his troops in this part of the island. The bronze statue is nearly 5 metres (16 ft.) in height while the granite statue, which guards Dingfu Rock on the eastern seashore, is a staggering 16 metres (53 ft.) in height. To put that into perspective, that’s about five times the size of an African elephant!

Gulangyu Island is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

Zhangzhou is a prefecture-level city in southern Fujian that has tragically been somewhat overshadowed by its neighbouring cousins. It rises up alongside the banks of the Jiulong River just southwest of Xiamen and Quanzhou, yet it has failed to achieve the same illustrious heritage as these two renowned seaports. However, with a population of just under 5 million and a plethora of stunning Qilou-style buildings, Zhangzhou has more to offer than you might think!

It was first established as a county sometime between 502 and 515 AD but was not instated as a prefecture until 686. Throughout the 8^th century, it was only considered a minor Chinese outpost with a meagre population of about 1,600 families. If only all cities were that small, then perhaps rush hour wouldn’t be quite so unbearable! From the 9^th century right through to the 13^th century, the city rapidly began to grow as one of the major trading ports on China’s southeast coast. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), lucrative trade between Zhangzhou, Indonesia, and other countries in Southeast Asia allowed it to expand exponentially.

Throughout the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) it continued to prosper by trading its famous, locally produced sugar and silk textiles with the Philippines. With sugary treats in their mouths and silk on their skin, the Zhangzhou locals were enjoying the height of luxury! Yet, like many success stories, this one has a tragic end.

In 1604 the city was first visited by Dutch ships, heralding the much longed for European investment and prosperity that Xiamen and Quanzhou both enjoyed, but around about the same time the river began silting up. The flourishing trade industry that Zhangzhou had once enjoyed gradually shifted further downstream towards Mamazhen and, by the 17^th and 18^th centuries, had moved to Xiamen entirely. While Xiamen became southeast China’s major port, Zhangzhou looked on with tearful, silty eyes.

However, the city did not give up on its trading roots entirely and still acts as a collecting centre for fruit, jute, sugarcane, and timber, which is then exported to Xiamen. Nowadays the only remnants of its glorious past are the Qilou-style buildings, whose architecture resembles a perfect intermingling of Chinese and European styles. Since Zhangzhou was not exposed to as much Western influence as other seaports, its Qilou are unique as they are distinctly more Chinese than European.

The surrounding towns and villages are resplendent with Tulou; large, fortified earthen buildings that have housed the local Hakka people and Hoklo People for centuries. These fortress-like constructions attract visitors every year, and have helped Zhangzhou earn back a little of its past popularity. Dongshan County, home to Dongshan Ancient City and the magnificent ruins of Tonghshan Castle, is a collection of 44 islands under the jurisdiction of Zhangzhou and can be found just off of its coast. The historic value of its architecture is unmatched, as can be said for many of the famous structures in Zhangzhou Prefecture. In short, though Zhangzhou’s glory days may be behind it, it’s still a long way from retirement!

Zhangzhou is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

Throughout the Song (960-1279), Yuan (1271-1368), and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties, the Maritime Silk Road largely overtook its grounded cousin and this led to numerous foreign traders landing, settling and influencing the seaport cities along China’s southeast coast. From 1850 through to 1900, after the First Opium War, many western traders settled on the island of Gulangyu near Xiamen City, further adding to this foreign influence. In the small fishing village of Zengcuo An, just southwest of Xiamen, the effect of this can be felt most palpably in its architecture. From austere churches to colonial mansions, it’s a melting pot of cultures, religions, and styles.

The ancestors of the Zeng family were fishermen who settled here long ago, bringing with them their unique lifestyle. Their religious beliefs primarily revolved around ancestor worship and worship of the goddess Mazu, who was the patron deity of seafarers. This is evidenced by the many temples to Mazu that can be found dotted throughout the village.

As the port of Xiamen grew and people from across the world flocked to the city, practisers of Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity, Islam, and numerous other religions settled in Zengcuo An. Nowadays the village’s small, winding roads are all that remain of its humble past and are flanked by magnificent colonial buildings, religious monoliths, and extraordinary works of art.

In 1998, a Chinese artist named Chen Wenling was attracted to the slow pace of life in the village and decided to settle there. This represented a major turning point for Zengcuo An, as several other artists followed suit. By 2003, over 20 sculpture studios had been opened and a plethora of professionals, from filmmakers to musicians, had taken up residence in this tiny village. Nowadays many of these artists have moved on, but the fantastic sculptures, paintings, and murals they left in their wake attest to their presence.

In 2001, waves of students from Xiamen University began renting student apartments in the village as it was far cheaper than living in the city itself. These students became so enamoured with this picturesque paradise that many of them decided to stay and open up their own shops. This helped to put Zengcuo An on the map, since many of these students could speak English and welcomed foreign tourists to enjoy this place so close to their own hearts.

From a simple walk along the seaside to a day spent sunbathing on the soft, sandy beaches; from a taste of sweet local fruit to a banquet of Min-nan style delicacies; Zengcuo An is full of so many simple delights that you too may not want to leave!

 

Zengcuo An is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)