Macau

macau

Like nearby Hong Kong, Macau is classified as a Special Administrative Region in China because it was once a foreign colony. The first Portuguese ship anchored there in 1513 and historians believe that it landed somewhere near the A-ma Temple, which is dedicated to Mazu, the goddess of seafarers and fishermen. When the Portuguese sailors asked the name of the place, the locals replied with the Chinese name of the temple, which was “Māgé Miào”. It is believed that this is where the name “Macau” came from. Talk about getting lost in translation!

By 1557, Portugal began paying tribute to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) for the right to settle the area. It was swiftly developed into a major international trading port, but remained largely under Chinese control until 1887, when a mutual agreement between the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and Portugal granted Portuguese sovereignty. Although it was swiftly overtaken in trade by Hong Kong, it would soon come to serve a far more important purpose.

macau-eveningThroughout the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945) and the Second World War (1939-1945), Macau was declared a neutral territory, unlike Hong Kong. Chinese and Europeans flocked to the region, and it soon grew to become one of the most densely populated areas on earth. In 1987, by using the Hong Kong Joint Declaration as a model, Portugal and China finally reached an agreement to return Macau to Chinese control in 1999. In exchange, Macau must remain autonomous for at least 50 years after the takeover. As outlined by the policy of “one country, two systems”, Macau’s citizens have the right to elect local leaders, travel freely, and maintain their way of life, although matters of foreign policy and defence are handled by China.

Yet it seems that what happens in Macau, really does stay in Macau! Heralded as the “Vegas of China”, gambling has been legal in the region since the 1850s and is the only place in China where gambling is legalised. It is home to a horse-racing track, the Macau Jockey Club, the dog-racing Canidrome, and 33 casinos, the largest of which is the Venetian Macao. A reclaimed patch of land, known as Cotai, is now the site of numerous megacasinos and is said to resemble the Las Vegas Strip.

Alongside Cotai, Macau is made up of three other areas: the Macau Peninsula, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane. The region itself has a subtropical climate, with hot, rainy summers and mild, dry winters. Temperatures regularly reach heights of 29 °C (84 °F) in summer, but fall to a comfortable 15 °C (59 °F) in winter. The Macau Peninsula houses the old city centre, which is celebrated for its colonial buildings, while Taipa is home to some of the region’s finest Macanese architecture and Coloane is known for its pristine sandy beaches.

Nowadays nearly all of the population is made up of the Han Chinese ethnic group, although there are small constituencies of Portuguese people and people of mixed Chinese and Portuguese ancestry, known as the Macanese. Cantonese and Portuguese are the region’s official languages, although English is also widely spoken. Macau is a true hybrid of cultures, with stately Portuguese churches sat side-by-side with traditional Chinese temples.

Many of the region’s most celebrated historical buildings were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 under the banner the “Historic Centre of Macau”. These include the stunning 16th-century Ruins of St. Paul’s, Igreja da Sé, the A-ma Temple, the Fortaleza do Monte, the Sir Robert Ho Tung Library, and the Old City Walls, along with 23 other sites of historic significance. The Ruins of St. Paul’s are what is left of St. Paul’s College and the Church of St. Paul, which tragically burned down in 1835. All that remains are the intricately carved southern stone façade and the underground crypts. The Old City Walls are in a comparable state of ruin, since they were originally constructed simply out of clay, sand, rice straw, rocks, and oyster shells.

Fortunately, Macau’s other historic attractions have had better luck! The Igreja da Sé is the current cathedral in Macau and was completely renovated in 1937, while the Fortaleza do Monte or “Mount Fortress” has remained virtually unchanged since 1626 and now houses the Museum of Macau. Similarly, the Sir Robert Ho Tung Library originally belonged to the mansion of a well-known Hong Kong magnate named Sir Robert Ho Tung, but was converted into a public library on his death in 1955.

In the city centre, these venerable old buildings jostle with the modern skyscrapers that make up this multi-cultural metropolis. The Macau Tower, which looms over the city at over 330 metres (1,100 ft.) in height, offers panoramic views of the surrounding area, along with built-in restaurants, theatres, shopping malls, and the thrilling Skywalk X. Visitors can bungee jump from the tower’s outer rim, although there is also a controlled and tethered “sky-jump” for the less adventurous!

For those who prefer to keep their feet firmly on the ground, Macau is famous for its myriad of delightful museums, including the Macau Museum of Art and the Macau Cultural Centre. There is even a wine museum, where visitors are welcome to taste over 50 different varieties of wine. Just be sure not to drink and drive, because Macau is known for its fast cars! The largest event of the year is the Macau Grand Prix, which takes place in November along the main streets of the Macau Peninsula.

Jilin Province

Mount. Changbai

Compared to popular provinces like Jiangsu and Yunnan, Jilin is still relatively unknown when it comes to tourism in China. Yet scratch beneath its icy surface, and you’ll find a wealth of stunning attractions just waiting to be discovered! Jilin is located in a northeastern region of China that was formerly known as Manchuria. Historically this region frequently found itself outside of Han Chinese rule, meaning its culture is far more diverse than other parts of China. From the Koreans of the Goguryeo Kingdom (37 BC–668 AD) and the Khitans of the Liao Dynasty (907–1125) to the Jurchens of the Jin Dynasty (1115–1234), Jilin’s history is a patchwork of cultures and ethnicities.

In terms of climate, Jilin may be more temperate than its northerly neighbours, but it still suffers from lengthy and bitterly cold winters. During the winter months, temperatures regularly drop to an average of −17 °C (2 °F), and only rise to around 23 °C (74 °F) in summer. Snow arrives as early as October and can last until April, making the province a veritable winter wonderland! For this reason, Jilin is a popular haven for winter sports and boasts a number of fabulous ski resorts. Although not as popular as its counterpart in Harbin of Heilongjiang province, the Ice Lantern Festival in the city of Jilin is another charming example of the superlative winter tourism that this province has to offer.

mount-changbaiIn the east, the snowy Changbai Mountains represent one of the most famous mountain ranges in China and are partially shared with North Korea. The mountains are considered sacred to both the Korean and the Manchu people. In the eastern region of the mountain range, the ethereal Heaven Lake sits like a deep blue sapphire set into the mountaintop. It’s important to note that this spectacular volcanic lake is split between China and North Korea, so visitors can only enjoy the view from the Chinese side. The shimmering Changbai Waterfall is equally as magnificent, and acts as the source of the Songhua River. Not to mention, there are plenty of hot springs along the mountain range where weary hikers can enjoy a much-needed soak!

Alongside the Changbai Mountains, the province is celebrated for its myriad of scenic nature reserves, such as Jingyue Lake National Forest Park and Xinghai National Nature Reserve. From verdant seas of lush trees to sparkling pools of crystal clear water, these reserves are the ideal place to escape the city and embrace the beauty of nature. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of the Ice-Rimmed Trees, which are considered one of China’s Four Major Natural Wonders.

This icy spectacle only lasts from January to February, when warm water from the Songhua River evaporates and freezes in the cold winter air to form delicate ice crystals that hang from the trees lining the riverbed. It can only be viewed in the early morning, as the ice largely melts after 7am, so be prepared for an early start if you want to admire this frosty phenomenon!

With the province’s unusual history, it should come as no surprise that its superb historical attractions are as numerous as its natural ones. Wandu Mountain City and Guonei City were both imperial capitals of the Korean Goguryeo Kingdom, and were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. These ancient mountain fortresses contain the ruins of watchtowers, imperial tombs, city walls, and various buildings that act as a testament to the province’s multi-ethnic past.

jilin koreanSimilarly, the Ancient Tombs at Longtou Mountain house the burial sites of some twelve royal figures belonging to the Korean Balhae Kingdom (698–926). These tombs are located in the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, which is populated by the largest concentration of ethnic Koreans in China. While some of these are expatriates, many of them were born in China, hold Chinese citizenship, and speak Mandarin Chinese as well as Korean. The prefecture itself is an excellent place to experience traditional Korean culture with a Chinese twist.

Arguably the most intriguing historical attraction that the province has to offer is the Museum of the Imperial Palace of the Manchu State, more commonly known as the “Puppet Emperor’s Palace”. It’s located in the provincial capital of Changchun and boasts a plethora of gorgeous sights, including gardens, swimming pools, and luxurious palace buildings. Its architecture is an elegant mixture of Western and traditional Chinese features.

After the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) collapsed, the Japanese government seized control of northeast China in 1931, renamed it Manchukuo, and set the last Qing Emperor, Puyi, on the throne as its puppet emperor. This palace served as his home from that time right up until the fall of Manchukuo in 1945. Although it suffered a huge amount of damage during the fall, it has since been restored and is now a museum, where visitors can admire the palace architecture and view exhibitions of the Emperor’s photographs, papers, and belongings. After all, if you can’t live the royal life, you might as well get a taste of it!

 

Hunan Province

Marvelled for its natural beauty and its historical significance, Hunan province remains one of the most popular tourist destinations in China. Its name literally translates to mean “south of the lake”, which is derived from its position south of the sparkling Lake Dongting. It might not be the most creative title, but it certainly demonstrates just how important nature is to this province. Even its abbreviated name, Xiang, is based on the Xiang River, which winds its way through the province. From towering karst mountains and obscure danxia landforms to thick bamboo groves and surging rivers, you’ll never be too far away from the majesty of Mother Earth!

Hunan’s landlocked south-central location means it’s bounded by numerous provinces, with Hubei in the north, Jiangxi in the east, Guangdong in the southeast, Guangxi in the southwest, and Guizhou in the west. Yet it’s more than just a hub for passing travellers. With the ethereal Wulingyuan Scenic Area, picturesque Fenghuang Ancient Town, and sacred Mount Heng, Hunan boasts more must-see tourist attractions than many provinces combined!

In terms of weather, it’s served by a humid, subtropical climate, with the north experiencing more extreme weather conditions than the south. Temperatures average a mild 3 to 8 °C (37 to 46 °F) in winter, but can skyrocket to between 27 to 30 °C (81 to 86 °F) when summer hits. Large parts of the province lie in the path of wet monsoons, which pass from west to east along the Yangtze River basin. From April to June, the wet season lays claim to Hunan, drenching it in frequent downpours of heavy rain. July and August are considered uncomfortably humid, so the best time to visit the province is during autumn, as the temperature is cooler and the rainfall is lighter.

The heavy rainfall and humid climate may not be ideal holiday weather, but they’ve contributed to make Hunan the largest producer of rice in China! Along with this staple food, red and black tea is also grown in copious amounts on the foothills of the Xuefeng Mountains and Mount Mufu. Cities throughout Hunan are celebrated for their fine handicrafts, such as xiang embroidery in the provincial capital of Changsha, bamboo furniture in Yiyang, porcelain wares in Liling, and the world-renowned fireworks of Liuyang. Some of the pottery kilns in the cities of Yueyang and Xiangyin even date back as far as the Tang Dynasty (618–907)!

Yet this isn’t the province’s only historical claim to fame. The poet Qu Yuan was supposedly born somewhere in Hunan and drowned himself in the province’s Miluo River, which became the basis for the legend of the Dragon Boat Festival. Not only that, but the founding father of the People’s Republic of China, Mao Zedong, was born in Shaoshan, and a number of other famous politicians also hail from cities throughout the province.

Although Hunan is largely dominated by the Han ethnic group, there are also significant constituencies of Miao, Tujia, Dong, and Yao people. This adds to the delicate tapestry of cultures that can be found throughout the province, from the vibrant silver jewellery of the Miao people to the wooden splendour of the many Dong drum towers. There is even a well-known smattering of Uyghur people living in Taoyuan County. They have become something of a national curiosity since, unlike other Uyghurs, they have embraced Han Chinese customs and regularly eat pork, which is in violation of their Muslim faith.

So what does Hunan province have to offer you? If you’re a firm nature lover, you won’t want to miss Dongting Lake, the second largest freshwater lake in China; Wulingyuan Scenic Area, the mountain range that served as the inspiration for the blockbuster movie Avatar; and Mount Heng, one of the Five Great Mountains of China.

For the history buff, there are plenty of ancient and modern sites to keep your curiosity at bay. The Mawangdui Tomb Complex, a collection of tombs dating back over 2,000 years ago, and the Confucian Yuelu Academy are arguably the most intriguing, while Fenghuang Ancient Town and Yueyang Tower are undoubtedly the most beautiful. However, any trip to Hunan simply wouldn’t be complete without visiting Shaoshan, the birthplace of Chairman Mao. Once your hunger for nature and history has been satisfied, be sure to indulge in a few of the province’s famous signature dishes. Hunan-style cuisine is listed as one of the Eight Great Culinary Traditions of Chinese Cooking. With its distinctive spiciness and sour tang, it’s sure to tickle your taste-buds and keep you wanting more!

The Kunlun Mountains

The snowy Kunlun Mountains stretch 2,000 kilometres (1,250 mi) from the far reaches of the Pamirs in Tajikistan through to the centre of Qinghai province in China and represent one of the longest mountain chains in Asia. They tower along the border between Xinjiang and the Tibet Autonomous Region and, at their westernmost point, form the Inner Asian rampart between the Tibetan Plateau and the Tarim Basin. At the southern edge of the Takla Makan Desert, these snowy mountains form a protective barrier against the icy expanses of Tibet and appear strangely beautiful surrounded by the soft golden sands. This range is so colossal that it branches off into several other mountain ranges, including the Altun Mountains and the Qilian Mountains. Unsurprisingly this has earned it the nickname the “Forefather of Mountains”.

The highest peak of the range, Mount Keriya, can be found in Yutian County of Xinjiang and sits at a staggering elevation of 7,120 metres (23,300 ft.), making it over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft.) higher than Mount Kilimanjaro! Unfortunately this high altitude and the desert conditions that prevail throughout the range largely inhibit the growth of vegetation and make the area virtually uninhabitable. Or so it would seem!

Much of the terrain consists of rock deserts, punctuated only by the occasional stagnant pool of water. Not exactly the most welcoming sounding place! Yet a number of rare animal species still manage to scrape a living in these barren wastes, including the Tibetan gazelle, Tibetan antelope, and wild yak. In the more humid and hospitable western portion of the mountains, argali sheep graze on the high grasslands and the upper crags are home to blue sheep and ibex. The willow thickets provide the perfect habitat for brown bears, wolves, and the occasional snow leopard, so don’t tread through them lightly!

In fact, the animals aren’t the only ones making a home out of this seemingly desolate place. The mountain range supports both permanent and migratory populations of people from the Uighur, Mongol, Tibetan, Tajik, and Kyrgyz ethnic minorities, as well as large constituencies of Han people. This is evidenced by settlements around the Kunlun Mountain Pass, just 160 kilometres south of Golmud City, which once made up part of the Silk Road.

It is an obligatory section on the route between Qinghai and Tibet and represents a sudden rise in altitude from 2,800 metres to 4,700 metres (9,200-15,400 ft.). The temperature and air pressure drop rapidly as you ascend, so this hike isn’t for the faint of heart. It has also enjoyed great fame for the stunning Kunlun Jade, which is predominantly mined here.

The mysticism surrounding this mountain range is undeniable and it has featured in numerous Chinese folk legends, including those of Chang’e (the goddess of the moon), Journey to the West, and The Legend of the White Snake. In other legends, it was believed to be the origin or father of all mountains. That being said, it is unclear whether the Kunlun Mountains were named after the legendary Kunlun Mountain of Chinese mythology or whether they are believed to be the site of the Kunlun Mountain itself.

In terms of the Taoist faith, these mountains are incredibly sacred and, according to legend, were first visited by King Mu (976-922 BC) of the Zhou Dynasty (c. 1045-256 B.C). It was here that he supposedly discovered the location of the Jade Palace, where the mythical Huang Di or “Yellow Emperor” lived, and met the Queen Mother of the West, who was the focal figure of an ancient religious cult that peaked during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD).

The Taoist connection to the mountains has led to a style of kung-fu known as Kunlun Mountain Fist being associated with it, although it bears great similarity to another style called Kunlunquan that originated from Kunlun Mountain in Shandong province. Its history can be traced all the way back to the Zhou Dynasty and it is one of the few Taoist sects of martial arts where students of both genders are accepted and members are allowed to marry. So in short, don’t mess with any of the married couples around the Kunlun Mountains!

Hukou Waterfall

Hukou waterfall01

Ranking just after the Huangguoshu Waterfall, the Hukou Waterfall is the second largest waterfall in China and the only yellow waterfall in the world. Yet there’s nothing yellow-bellied about this powerful natural phenomenon! It rests at a point along the Yellow River where the riverbed suddenly tapers down from 300 metres (984 ft.) to 50 metres (164 ft.), transforming tranquil waters into cascading rapids. The result is a magnificent 15 metre-high (49 ft.) and 20 metre-wide (66 ft.) waterfall that gushes down from the narrow opening like bubbling water pouring from a teapot. This is what earned the waterfall its unusual name, as “hukou” literally translates to mean “a spout” in Chinese. That being said, don’t go trying to pour yourself a cuppa from this fierce torrent!

The waterfall is located at the intersection between the provinces of Shanxi and Shaanxi, about 165 kilometres (103 mi) west of Fenxi City and 50 kilometres (31 mi) east of Yichuan County. The provinces are in fact connected by Qilangwo Bridge, which spans the stretch of river just beneath the waterfall. The waterfall itself can be found within Jinxia Grand Canyon and is flanked on both sides by Hukou Mountain. Its size and velocity changes depending on the season, and can easily reach a staggering 50 metres (164 ft.) in width during the rainy season. In winter, it’s said to be particularly beautiful as the water slows and the riverbed is lined by shimmering icicles.

Hukou Waterfall02According to the locals, the thundering sound of the water can be heard for miles around, and the current is so strong that boats have to be pulled out of the river long before they even get to the waterfall. These boats have to either be shipped by truck or carried around this section of the river before they can be put back in the water. So, while the Hukou Waterfall might float your boat metaphorically, the harsh reality is it’s far more likely to sink it in real life!

Just below the waterfall, be sure to look out for a shining stone that the locals call the guishi or “ghost stone”. Rumour has it that this mysterious stone moves up and down depending on the water level and, no matter how high the water is, it’s always partly visible. It might not be the stuff of horror films, but it’s certainly pretty unique!

 

Reed Flute Cave

Reed Flute Cave (Ludi Yan) earned its unusual name thanks to the plentiful reeds growing outside of the cave’s entrance that are often used to make flutes or other small wind instruments. The cave is about 5 kilometres northwest of downtown Guilin and the main entrance to the cave is situated on the south side of Guangming Hill or “Bright Light” Hill. Reed Flute Cave is a natural limestone cave that has formed over a period of 180 million years. Although it was only officially opened as a tourist attraction in 1962, it has in fact been a tourist site for over 1,200 years. As a testament to its popularity throughout the years, more than 70 inscriptions have been written in ink on the cave’s walls, some of them dating all the way back to 792 A.D. These inscriptions are evidence that the cave has been a beloved attraction since the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

For many years, the cave remained untouched until, in the 1940s, a group of Chinese refugees fleeing from Japanese troops during World War II came upon the cave and used it as a hiding place. The cave itself is 240 metres long and boasts a glittering array of stalagmites, stalactites, stone columns and bizarre karst formations. All of these fantastically alien shapes have been created by the deposition of calcium carbonate in the water as it trickles through the limestone. When the water hits the floor, it deposits tiny particles of calcium carbonate that eventually grow upwards to form stalagmites. When the water drops from the ceiling of the cave, it leaves behind tiny deposits of calcium carbonate that eventually form stalactites. It is estimated that the stalactites and stalagmites in Reed Flute Cave grow on average about 1 millimetre per year.

Reed Flute Cave 02Visitors enter the cave at Bright Light Hill and follow a U-shaped path that eventually leads them to an exit not far from the entrance of the cave. It takes approximately one hour to make your way through the entire cave at a steady pace. We strongly recommend that you wear appropriate shoes and warm clothes in the cave, as the floor of the cave is wet and muddy and, although it may be warm outside, the cave tends to stay very cool. Inside the cave, the interior has been beautifully lit with differently coloured lights. This myriad of colour illuminating and bouncing off of the strange shapes of the rock gives the cave an almost mystical feel, as if you are travelling through a fairy-tale world.

As you travel through the cave, you’ll come across several rock formations that have been given whimsical names based on their appearance, such as the Dragon Pagoda, Mushroom Hill, the Red Curtain and Pines in the Snow. There is even a rock formation that looks just like the Statue of Liberty. Perhaps the most impressive part of the cave is a grotto known as the Crystal Palace, which is large enough to hold just over 1,000 people. In this grotto, there is a stalagmite that appears to be in the shape of a human being. This stalagmite was once supposedly a visiting scholar who came to Reed Flute Cave with the aim of writing a poem that would perfectly capture its majesty. He spent so long in the cave trying to find the right words for his poem that he eventually turned to stone. There are so many beautiful rock formations such as these in Reed Flute Cave that it is now often referred to as “Nature’s Art Palace”.

Unfortunately the cave is so dark that it is very difficult to get any decent photographs within the cave unless you are using specialist photographic equipment. However, at certain stations throughout the cave, such as the Crystal Palace, camera equipment has been set up so that visitors can pay to get their photograph taken near some of the more fantastic rock formations. These photographs, along with the reed flutes which can be purchased at the entrance and exit of the cave, make a wonderful souvenir. At the cave’s exit, a park has been built with many elegant pavilions, crystal clear ponds, wonderfully engraved stone bridges and numerous colourful flowerbeds. It is the ideal place to relax after a long trek through the cave. There are public buses that run between Guilin city and Reed Flute Cave, although they are not very regular so we recommend that you check the bus schedule in advance.

Qianling Mausoleum

Qianling Mausoleum 03

The Qianling Mausoleum is unique in that the main tomb has not been looted by grave robbers nor has it been excavated, meaning it has remained sealed and untouched for over 1,300 years. Thus, of the 18 Tang Dynasty Mausoleums, the Qianling Mausoleum is considered to be the most well-preserved. The main tomb houses one of China’s most controversial royal figures, Empress Wu Zetian, who was the only woman to have ever formally ruled China. She is also the only Empress to have been buried alongside her husband, the Emperor. The tomb itself follows the same structural pattern as Zhaoling Mausoleum in that it has been built into the side of a mountain. Only members of the imperial family were allowed to build their mausoleums into natural mountains and, of the 18 Tang Dynasty emperors, 14 of them chose to have mountains serve as their burial mounds. Though in scale Qianling Mausoleum may not be as impressive as the colossal Zhaoling Mausoleum, in terms of artistic beauty it is unmatched. Littered throughout the mausoleum you’ll find statues, murals and painted pottery, all a tableau of ancient China frozen in time. From the haunting stone funeral procession that leads to the Emperors tomb to the underground tombs of Princes and Princesses that have now been opened to the public, the Qianling Mausoleum takes you back to a time when men were gods and built monuments so as to be remembered for time immemorial.

Qianling Mausoleum is located on Mount Liang, about 80 kilometres (50 miles) northwest of Xi’an, and was built in 684 A.D., a year after Emperor Gaozong suffered the debilitating stroke that killed him. With the Leopard Valley to the east and the Sand Canyon to the west, the Mausoleum on Mount Liang is the perfect scenic spot to enjoy the diversity of landscapes in China. On the surface of the Mausoleum there were once 378 magnificent buildings, including the Sacrificial Hall, the Pavilion, and the Hall of Ministers. Sadly these surface buildings have all but disappeared, leaving only their underground counterparts. Aside from these surface buildings, which were relatively common among Tang Emperor’s tombs, Qianling Mausoleum has several features that make it unique among the other mausoleums. The burial mounds on the southern peak of Mount Liang each have towers erected at the centre of each mound and are thus named “Naitoushan” or “Nipple Hills” due to their resemblance to breasts. These Nipple Hills form a sort of gateway into the Mausoleum, creating a visual effect that is both stunning and exclusive to Qianling Mausoleum. The main imperial tomb, however, is located on the northern peak. There you’ll find the tallest burial mound and a 61 metre (200 ft.) long, 4 metre (13 ft.) wide tunnel carved out of the mountain that leads into the inner tomb chambers. This is the final resting place of Emperor Gaozong and Empress Wu Zetian, which has remained unopened to this day.

Qianling Mausoleum 02The most magnificent and otherworldly feature of Qianlong Mausoleum are the stone statues that have braved the elements and remained suspended in time for over a thousand years. If you follow the Spirit Way that leads to the Emperor’s tomb, you will undoubtedly discover the 124 stone statues that serve as his funeral procession. These include statues of horses, winged horses, horses with grooms, lions, officials, foreign envoys and, most bizarre of all, ostriches. The first ostrich was presented to the Tang court by a khan of the Western Turks in 620 A.D. and the Tushara Kingdom sent another one in 650 A.D. It is believed that early Chinese representations of phoenixes were based on these ostriches. The ostriches at Qianling Mausoleum serve as a symbol of the Tang Dynasty’s power and influence over its foreign neighbours.

Similarly, the sixty-one stone envoys that perpetually mourn Emperor Gaozong’s death were directly commissioned by Empress Wu Zetian and designed after the sixty-one foreign envoys that were physically present at Emperor Gaozong’s funeral. Each figure is wearing a long robe with a wide belt and boots and, if you look closely, you’ll find the name of each individual and the country he represented carved on his back. These foreign envoys were constructed to further symbolise the Tang Dynasty’s far reaching influence and powerful empire. Tragically, for reasons unknown, these sixty-one statues have been decapitated.

Surrounding the main tomb, archaeologists have also recovered four gates, parts of the inner wall, and parts of the outer wall that guarded the tomb, along with remnants of houses that once belonged to workers charged with maintaining the tomb. The four gates are called Zhu Que Men (Rosefinch Gate) to the south, Xuan Wu Men (Mystical Power Gate) to the north, Qing Long Men (Black Dragon Gate) to the east, and Bai Hu Men (White Tiger Gate) to the west. Near the main tomb you’ll also find the magnificent Qijie Bei or “Tablet of the Seven Elements”, which is so called because it symbolises the Sun, Moon, Metal, Wood, Water, Earth and Fire, the seven elements in ancient Chinese philosophy. This tablet carries an inscription describing the achievements of the Emperor, which was composed by the Empress Wu Zetian and written in the calligraphic style of Emperor Zhongzong (Emperor Gaozong’s son). Interestingly, near the Tablet of the Seven Elements, there sits the Blank Tablet, which has dragons and oysters carved upon it but no inscription. It is the only blank tablet to be found in any royal mausoleum in China and was erected by Empress Wu Zetian, who stated in her will: “My achievements and errors must be evaluated by later generations, therefore carve no characters on my stele[1]”. This may seem like an odd thing for anyone to say, particularly from the only woman to have ever ruled as Emperor, and it shines a light directly on the controversy surrounding Wu Zetian.

Qianling Mausoleum 01Although the Emperor’s tomb has not been excavated, the tombs of Crown Prince Zhanghuai, Prince Yide and Princess Yongtai have all been unearthed and opened to the public. The one thing these three royal figures had in common was that they were all put to death by their mother and grandmother respectively, Wu Zetian, when they were still young. These three unfortunate youths, who suffered tragic deaths, were not even honored with imperial tombs until Empress Wu Zetian finally died in 706 A.D and their brother and father respectively, Emperor Zhongzong, was finally allowed to give his brother and children a proper burial. Wu Zetian was not only implicated in the deaths of these three relatives but also in the deaths of two of her other children and several other family members, friends and officials that either displeased her or threatened her claim to the throne. Thus you can understand why, in light of all these nefarious deeds, Wu Zetian’s tombstone has remained blank for over a thousand years. Though Wu Zetian’s reign of tyranny has long ended, her exploits have not been forgotten.

If you visit the tombs today, you’ll find a much more positive representation of ancient China. The three tombs that have been opened up to the public are covered in stunning murals of typical scenes in the Imperial Court, including beautiful maidservants, nobles playing Polo on horseback and royals receiving their foreign guests. Though these paintings have been worn by time, the exuberant colours and vivid facial expressions of the characters within them still evoke a real sense of how extravagant life must have been during the Tang Dynasty. Princess Yongtai’s tomb has been converted into a museum, where you’ll find a collection of the 4,300 historical relics that were exhumed from the three tombs. From the delicately carved jade funeral eulogiums to the painted figures of riders with their horses gilt faced, inlaid lavishly with gold, we’re sure you’ll find a trip to Qianlong Museum and Qianlong Mausoleum both rewarding and fascinating. From the outset, it is truly a feast for the eyes.

 

 

[1] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

 

Hemu Village

Hemu xinjiang 01

Nestled within the Altay Mountains of northern Burqin County lies the small and tranquil village of Hemu. It is heralded as one of the six most beautiful villages in China and, once you catch a glimpse of it, you’ll soon see why. As the sun rises over the grasslands and illuminates the bright white birch forests nearby, smoke curls up from the chimneys of the village’s quaint log cabins, marking the beginning of a new day. The hundred or so families who live here will while away these daylight hours by grazing their sheep and cattle on the jade green pastures, washing their vegetables in the shimmering Hemu River, or simply taking a long horse-ride through the misty mountains. In summer, the place is awash with the lushest greens, while in autumn accents of gold, red, and purple fleck the landscape.

This rustic paradise, also known as Horm Village, has been home to the native Tuvan people for over a thousand years. Along with Baihaba Village, it is one of the largest Tuvan villages in China, although it also boasts small communities of Mongolian and Kazakh people. The Tuvans are a Siberian people who have Mongolian, Turkic, and Samoyedic roots. Although tourism has now become an important part of their annual income, many of them continue to make a living by hunting and raising animals. In fact, they farm anything from sheep and cows to yaks and even reindeer! They build their log cabins by hand using wood harvested from the nearby forests, which means the village seamlessly blends in with its natural surroundings. Many of the homes have a portrait of Genghis Khan hanging over their fireplace, as the Tuvans believe that they are descended from the soldiers of his ancient and mighty army. So it goes without saying that you shouldn’t get on their bad side!

Hemu in xinjiang02That being said, the villagers are well-known for their incredible hospitality and will happily welcome visitors into their humble homes. And what better way to greet guests than with snacks! Normally they will receive guests with an array of delicious home-made dairy products, such as yogurt, milk wine, milk tea, and freshly baked cakes. Generally speaking, it is not considered impolite to refuse the food, but some B&Bs will welcome visitors with a Tuvan tradition involving two compulsory bowls of milk tea. The host will pour the first bowl and offer the drinker butter, which they can add to taste. As soon as the first bowl is finished, the host will fill it again. According to local belief, it is this second bowl that will grant the drinker good luck. That is, unless you’re lactose intolerant!

In terms of spiritual belief, the Tuvan are firm followers of both Tibetan Buddhism and a folk religion known as Tengrism. This Central Asian faith borrows features from shamanism[1], animism[2], and ancestor worship, and was once the prevailing religion of the Turks, Mongolians, and Hungarians. The rich tapestry of customs and beliefs that the Tuvan subscribe to can be felt most palpably in their lively religious festivals, so plan your visit carefully if you want to experience one.

hemu in xinjiangThe village itself is only 70 kilometres (43 mi) away from Kanas Lake, so it’s a popular stop for tourists on their way to the Kanas Lake Nature Reserve. If you’re a fan of hiking, then there is a short hike that leads to a nearby observation platform, which yields stunning panoramic views of the village and the surrounding countryside. For the more adventurous hikers, we recommend venturing out onto the Hemu Grassland, although we strongly advise that you take a local guide with you as the routes are quite treacherous and the local wild boar can be dangerous if encountered. If you’re lucky, you may even come across a cluster of pearl white yurts. Some of these belong to the local Tuvan people, but others are the temporary homes of the Kazakh ethnic minority. Like the Tuvans, the Kazakhs are exceptionally friendly and will happily welcome visitors into their yurt. Just be sure to ask for permission first!

 

 

[1] Shamanism: The practice of attempting to reach altered states of consciousness in order to communicate with the spirit world and channel energy from it into the real world. This can only be done by specialist practitioners known as shaman.

[2] Animism: The belief that all non-human entities, including animals, plants, and even inanimate objects, possess a spiritual essence or soul.

People’s Park in Nanning

Amongst the many parks in Nanning city, few boast the number of strange and wonderful attractions that People’s Park has. From the bizarrely placed cannon on its slope to the small garden that rests on the surface of the White Dragon Lake, this park features a variety of scenic spots that will appeal to historians, naturalists, and those who simply want a fun day out. The park was established in 1951 and is located in downtown Nanning, so it’s within easy reach if you’re planning a trip to the city.

The People’s Park in Nanning is not to be confused with many of the other “People’s Parks” across China. The term “People’s” Park, or Renmin Park, was popularised in 1949 to express the solidarity and importance of the people during the rise of Communism in China. These parks still stand as a testament to the unity and strength of the Chinese people.

As you enter the gate of the park, you’ll immediately come upon the Wangxian Slope. “Wangxian” literally means “to gaze at immortals” in Chinese and this strange, ethereal hillside, with its thick forest and 10-metre-wide stone steps, is so-called because it directly faces Qingxiu Mountain. Supposedly, if you look out towards the mountain, you may catch sight of Luo Xiu, a scholar from the Jin Dynasty (265-420) who achieved immortality through the practice of Taoist alchemy. We’re not quite sure what he does all day but, if you see him, be sure to give him a polite nod and a wave.

The 141 stone steps leading up the slope symbolise the 91 enterprises that were built after the liberation of China in 1949 and the 50 programs that were settled in 1950. As you ascend the slope, you’ll soon catch sight of the Zhenning Cannon. Originally this site was once an ancestral temple dedicated to six historical figures who had each contributed to the development of Nanning. This temple was built during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) but was tragically dismantled in 1917 by the warlord Lu Rongting and replaced with a huge cannon. This cannon was made in 1890 by Krupp of Germany and has a firing range of 12,000 meters, although we hope that no one plans to test it again anytime soon. Alongside this cannon, you’ll also find battlements, barracks and forts, which seem rather out of place in this peaceful city park. Yet Lu Rongting’s army weren’t the first to settle in this seemingly idyllic place.

南宁人民公园01According to historical texts from the Southern Song Dynasty, when General Di Qing (1008–1057) went to Guangxi to suppress a rebellion that was happening in the region, he stationed his troops in modern-day People’s Park. When he looked down from Wanxiang Slope, he noticed a strange white figure floating on the surface of the lake. He stared at it long and hard, until a colleague pointed out that it was simply the reflection of a flock of sheep drinking on the bank! The General named it White Dragon Lake, after the shape of the sheep’s reflection. Nowadays there are no dragons, or sheep, hiding in the lake, but there are over 100,000 multi-coloured koi carp in its waters and beautifully carved bridges connecting its many islands and banks. On a warm sunny day, you can take a stroll along the bridges, feed the fish or take a paddleboat out onto the shimmering waters.

In keeping with the military aesthetic, there is also the Revolutionary Martyrs Monument on the northeast section of Wangxian Slope. This moving tribute to the revolutionists who lost their lives during the Great Revolution (1924-1927), the Anti-Japanese War (1937-1945) and the Liberation War (1947-1949) is a spot of reverence for many Chinese people and is decked out in flowers during the Tomb Sweeping Festival[1].

However, if you’re not historically inclined, we recommend a visit to the park’s Botanical Garden, where you can feast your eyes on a selection of over 80,000 plants. The garden contains many rare flowers, including numerous types of orchid, a 1,000-year-old banyan tree, and the largest ball cactus in Guangxi. At over 52 centimetres in diameter, the cactus is about the size of a large chair, but rest assured, no matter how tired you are, you definitely don’t want to sit on it.

If huge cannons, white dragons, and chair-sized cactuses aren’t enough to draw you in, there’s also a small amusement park, underground icehouse, numerous lovely pavilions, and a charming White Dragon restaurant. With all of these strange delights on offer, we’re sure you’ll find something in People’s Park that’ll make your day.

[1] Tomb Sweeping Festival: Sometimes referred to as Qingming Festival or Ancestor’s Day. It takes place on April 4th or 5th each year and is predominantly a day to pay respects to the deceased.

West Street

West Street or Xijie is the oldest and most popular street in the county town of Yangshuo. Its history stretches back over 1,400 years but in the beginning it was simply made up of a few small grocery stores. Nowadays, it is a melting pot of Western and Eastern sensibilities. Since the 1980s, West Street has developed from a modest path to a bustling hub of diverse cultures and peoples, with a myriad of Western and Chinese-style shops, cafés and restaurants. It is situated directly at the centre of Yangshuo and covers a length of 517 metres (1,696 feet) and a width of 8 metres (26 feet). The street meanders in an “S” shape from the centre of town down to the banks of the Li River, and has been paved with beautifully smooth stones, giving it the appearance of a traditional Chinese courtyard. Every year, approximately 100,000 foreign tourists tread along this well-worn path and marvel at the array of shops on offer.

This street has become particularly popular with foreign tourists’ because it boasts the greatest number of English speakers and bilingual stores in Yangshuo. Any English-speaking person can easily haggle, order food or ask for directions on West Street without having to employ a translator or resort to floundering hand gestures. Even the elderly women on the street will speak some English, and this can be particularly comforting after you’ve been travelling through China for some time. Nowadays, more than 20 of the businesses on West Street are run by foreigners who decided to settle in Yangshuo, so it’s the perfect place to meet backpackers, students, and expats in the Yangshuo community.

During the day, West Street is a shoppers’ paradise, with numerous stalls selling local craftworks, paintings, antiques, jewellery, and numerous other trinkets. There are calligraphy stores where you can have your name written in Chinese, embroidery shops where you can buy a pair of delicately embroidered silk slippers, and even bone-carving stalls where you can have your Chinese zodiac sign carved into yak bone. It’s the perfect place to pick up a few souvenirs or mementos of your journey. No matter what your heart desires, West Street will have it.

There are a number of cafés and restaurants along West Street that act as a safe haven from which one can quietly while away the day. Many of these restaurants serve Western-style food and proper filter coffee, which is something you may learn to miss if you travel around China for too long! Unlike many other Chinese towns or cities, Yangshuo boasts a variety of different Western-style restaurants, including restaurants specialising in American, Italian and even German dishes. There are also several hostels and hotels on West Street, although these tend to be more expensive than others due to their central location.

At night, West Street truly comes alive, with vibrant neon lights, deafening music, and fashionably dressed bartenders beckoning you into clubs. More stalls are set up late into the evening and, unlike the calm daily traffic, by night the street is rammed wall to wall with people. Though it may not be for everyone, this makes for a particularly exciting experience. At the entrance and exit of West Street, there are small food stalls offering late night snacks and catering to a variety of appetites. From spicy fried tofu garnished in chopped spring onion to a mouth-watering suckling pig roast, you’ll be sure to find a tasty treat that’ll suit your mood.

The bars along West Street are a great place to meet and network with other tourists, backpackers, expats, and students. These bars act as social hubs in Yangshuo and oftentimes will be on the open rooftop of a hostel, meaning that you can enjoy a quiet beverage whilst marvelling at the surrounding Karst Mountains. If you fancy a little downtime after a long period of traveling, West Street is the perfect place to unwind.