Zhenguo Temple

Located just 10 kilometres (6 mi) from the ancient city of Pingyao, Zhenguo Temple has a history that stretches back over 1,000 years. Its profound historical importance meant it was incorporated by UNESCO into the “Ancient City of Pingyao” World Heritage Site in 1997. Records suggest that the temple was originally established during the Northern Han Dynasty (951–979), since the “Wanfo” or “Ten-Thousand Buddha” Hall, its oldest surviving structure, was built in 963 AD. Constructed without the use of a single nail, this hall is a masterpiece of ancient architecture and is one of the three oldest wooden structures in China. So, if you ever need to knock on wood, this might be the best place to do it! 

Within the hall itself, there are eleven sculptures that date all the way back to the Northern Han Dynasty. Outside of the Mogao Caves in Gansu province, they are the only examples of Buddhist sculpture in China dating back to this period. The main statue is that of Shakyamuni[1] Buddha, who is flanked by Bodhisattvas[2] and the Four Heavenly Kings of Buddhism. The Ten-Thousand Buddha Hall rests at the centre of the temple complex and is surrounded by a constellation of other halls, which were added periodically throughout the temple’s history. 

At its southern end, the complex opens with Tianwang Hall, which acts as the temple’s gate and was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). The hall is flanked by two towers, and contains statues of Guan Yu, a renowned military general from the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), alongside statues of the Four Heavenly Kings. Its northernmost point is marked by Sanfo Hall, which was constructed during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). The name “Sanfo” literally translates to mean “Three Buddhas” and is named for the statues of the three forms of Shakyamuni that rest within its walls. The delicate murals that bedeck its walls similarly depict the life of Shakyamuni in vivid colour. 

While this trio represents the three main halls of the complex, there are two smaller halls called Guanyin Hall and Dizang Hall on the eastern and western edges of the northern courtyard, which both date back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). These are dedicated to Guanyin, the bodhisattva of mercy, and Dizang, the bodhisattva charged with aiding the deceased. Spanning many of the major dynasties, a walk through Zhenguo Temple’s halls is like taking a trip through Chinese history!

Notes:

[1] Shakyamuni: One of the titles of Gautama Buddha, the central figure and founder of the Buddhist faith. It is derived from the place named Sakya, which is where he was born.

[2] Bodhisattva: The term literally means “one whose goal is awakening”. It refers to a person who seeks enlightenment and is thus on the path to becoming a Buddha. It can be applied to anyone, from a newly inducted Buddhist to a veteran or “celestial” bodhisattva who has achieved supernatural powers through their training.  

Fuling Tomb

Located in the provincial capital of Shenyang in Liaoning province, Fuling Tomb serves as a monument to an illustrious Manchu leader known as Nurhaci and his wife, Empress Xiaocigao. Although Nurhaci was never officially acknowledged as Emperor, the power that he amassed in his lifetime allowed his son, Huang Taiji, to eventually establish the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the last imperial government to rule China. He was posthumously honoured with the title of Emperor and, true to custom, was buried in a lavish imperial mausoleum complex. This invaluable historic site has been beautifully preserved and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. It’s proof that, even after death, you can keep on achieving your dreams!

Alongside Zhaoling Tomb and Yongling Tomb, it is considered emblematic of Qing Dynasty funerary architecture, are sometimes referred to as the Three Tombs at Shengjing (modern-day Shenyang) or the Qing Tombs Outside of the Pass. Its numerous edifices, statues, carvings, and murals seamlessly combine traditional Han Chinese features with those of the Manchu people. Construction of Fuling Tomb began in 1629 and was completed in 1651, with the tomb site itself being laid out into three main sections from south to north. The front section consists mainly of a grand red gate, which is surrounded by two elaborately carved stone lions, ornamental columns, memorial archways, and stone tablets. 

The stone tablets bear inscriptions carved in Manchu, Mongolian, and Chinese which instruct all visitors to dismount their horses at this point and continue on foot as a sign of respect to the deceased. In ancient times, any visitors caught horsing around would be swiftly punished! Once you pass through the red gate, you arrive at a path known as the Sacred Way. This path is flanked by pairs of stone animals that are designed to protect the tomb, such as lions, horses, camels, and tigers. At the end of the Sacred Way, a colossal 108-step stairway leads to the last section of the complex. 

The top of this stairway is home to the Square Castle, the largest structure in Fuling Tomb. It is approximately 5 metres (16 ft.) in height and has four small towers resting on its four corners. Grand though this castle may be, this is not the final resting place of Nurhaci. Located just behind the Square Castle, the Bao or “Treasure” Castle is where you’ll find the interred remains of Nurhaci and his wife. Though the complex’s many pavilions, steles, and statues are undeniably impressive, the greatest treasure of all is Nurhaci’s undying legacy. 

Fengdu Ghost City

While different cultures have multifarious beliefs regarding the nature of the afterlife, one basic truth resonates through them all: good is rewarded with good; and evil punished with evil. Hidden deep within the verdant forests of Mount Ming, about 170 kilometres (110 mi) downstream from Chongqing, rests a temple complex entirely dedicated to this principle. Much like the River Styx, Fengdu Ghost City’s riverside location means it can be reached by cruise ship along the Yangtze River, although there is the option to take a slightly less magical ride into the city by bus or by car. Abandon all hope ye who decide to take a tour here, for this is the home of Yinwang, the King of Hell. 

According to local legend, two imperial officials named Yin Changsheng and Wang Fangping came to Mount Ming during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD) in order to practice Taoism. After a lifetime of solitude, they achieved immortality. Over time, their association with the place and the combination of their surnames, which form the word “Yinwang” or “King of Hell”, led to the site’s focus on the underworld and the attainment of the name “Ghost City”. However, it wasn’t until the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that the vast temple complex began to be constructed. Combining features of Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism, this complex is made up of temples, shrines, and monasteries all dedicated to depicting the gruesome and demonic images of those who will be tortured in hell.

The site’s mystique and macabre nature meant it swiftly gained notoriety throughout the country and it has been mentioned in a number of Chinese literary classics, including Journey to the West, Investiture of the Gods, and Strange Tales from a Chinese Studio. Nowadays it remains a popular attraction, with visitors testing their morality against the notorious three trials of the afterlife. Be forewarned: the city is not for the faint of heart, as it contains vivid dioramas, statues, and murals of people being viciously tortured by demons. Whether it’s a man moaning in agony as he is sawn in half or a woman gaping in horror as her teeth are plucked out, these grotesque images are sure to inspire anyone to choose the righteous path!

Traditional Chinese belief states that, in order to successfully pass over into the afterlife, the dead must take part in three trials. The first involves crossing over the Nothing-To-Be-Done Bridge, a stone bridge that was constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). It is made up of three arches, although only the middle one is used to test people. The other two, known as the golden and silver bridge respectively, should be crossed over on your way out of the city, as this is rumoured to bring good fortune. Different procedures are adhered to depending on gender, age, and marital status, but the main objective is to make it across the bridge.

It is believed that a good person will cross the bridge without effort, while an evil person will fall into the square-shaped pools below. In some instances, demons would block the path, allowing the good spirits to pass and pushing the evil spirits into the water. If you thought this first trial was a bridge too far, it will seem harmless compared to those ahead! During the second trial, the dead must navigate the Ghost-Torturing Pass, where they present themselves for judgement before Yama, the King of Hell according to Buddhist tradition. Along this eerie path, eighteen life-sized sculptures of demons loom at passers-by, their faces gnarled into frowns and scowls. At the end of the path, you’ll arrive at the entrance to Tianzi Palace, where the final trial awaits you. 

Acting as the centre of the complex, Tianzi Palace is the oldest and largest temple on the mountain. The third trial involves balancing on one foot atop a certain stone at its entrance for three minutes. A virtuous person should be able to accomplish this task with ease, while a nefarious person will inevitably fail and be condemned to hell. Once a spirit has completed their journey, they will ascend the Last Glance to Home Tower. At the top, they are permitted to take one last look at their homes and families before passing over to the other side. That being said, this tower was only built in 1985, so anyone who died before then probably didn’t have such a good view!

As you travel through the city, you’re sure to catch a glimpse of a colossal stony face peering out of the forest on Mount Ming. This is known as the “Ghost King” and, at a height of 138 metres (453 ft.) and a width of 217 metres (712 ft.), it has unsurprisingly earned the Guinness World Record for the largest sculpture carved into a rock. Just remember, you might not be able to see him, but he’s always watching you, so behave yourself!   

The Kalamaili Nature Reserve

Stretching from the Ulungur River in the north to the Tian Shan Mountains in the south, the Kalamaili Nature Reserve is one of the largest of its kind in China. It covers a colossal area of more than 14,000 square kilometres (5,405 sq. mi), making it nearly twice the size of Yellowstone National Park in the USA! That being said, its location deep within the Gobi Desert means it doesn’t look like your average nature reserve. There are no bubbling brooks, lush meadows, or towering forests here; only barren sands, hardy desert shrubs, and the looming Kalamaili or “Black Mountains”, which cut through the heart of the reserve and lend it its name. 

These mountains are ancient, dating back to a time when the Kalamaili Reserve was once a verdant paradise. Millions of years ago, they were buried by a vast ocean that covered most of western China. As the ocean receded, tectonic forces pushed a rock basin upwards and formed the mountain range we see today. Where formerly it was submerged under a sea of water, now it is fittingly surrounded by a sea of sand. When the range was formed, the climate was much warmer and far more humid. Small lakes dotted throughout its expanse provided the perfect environment for gymnosperms and ferns to thrive.

During the Triassic and Jurassic Periods, these small pockets of vegetation blossomed into ancient forests and provided a habitat for one of earth’s most enduringly fascinating inhabitants: the dinosaurs. Nowadays all that is left are their desiccated bones, tossed among the shards of petrified wood and blackened rocks that form the mountain range. As the climate in the region became more arid over time, plant species were gradually squeezed out, until only the hardiest could survive in this dry expanse of sand. Every year, the only respite that the reserve receives is a smattering of winter snow and seasonal rain, which accumulates into small salt-spring pools. 

These pools are essential to the survival of plant and animal life in the Kalamaili. Hostile though the reserve may seem, it is populated by over 280 animal species, including the Mongolian wild ass, goitered gazelle, Eurasian wolf, red fox, Argali sheep, and Bactrian camel. It is a case of quality over quantity; the reserve is only able to support around 30,000 animals, meaning the diversity of species is far greater than the density. The reserve’s most famous inhabitant is also one of its rarest: the elusive Przewalski’s horse. 

The horse is named after the Russian officer and biologist Nikolai Przhevalsk, who led a secret expedition into the Dzungarian Basin in 1876 and discovered the wild horses just north of the Kalamaili Mountains. He sent specimens back to Europe, but the species wouldn’t be named until 1881. In a sad twist of fate, by the time the Przewalski’s horse was officially recognised, it had simultaneously become the last known wild horse in Eurasia. In its heyday, it dominated the Kalamaili, with herds of these hardy wild horses coursing across the desert steppe. However, as is so often the case, the expansion of human settlements into the area drove the horses out and their population rapidly plummeted.

No more than a century after they had been discovered, the Przewalski’s horse had gone extinct in China. It wasn’t until 2001 that the Kalamaili would once again hear the thundering of hooves, when the Xinjiang Forestry Department decided to reintroduce a group of 27 Przewalski’s horses into the reserve. Their efforts were largely successful and nowadays there are over 100 horses thriving in the reserve. With their robust frames, square-shaped heads, and coarse hair, they are distinctly different from their domesticated cousins.

Alongside its status as a haven for wild ungulates, the Kalamaili Nature Reserve is an important stopover on the migratory route of numerous bird species, such as golden eagles and saker falcons. Some will stop merely to eat before taking off on another long flight, while others will settle for the season and stay to breed. Like the birds that nest here every year, the Kazakh nomads move from the alpine meadows of the Altai Mountains in the fall and take up residence in the southern Kalamaili during the winter, where the weather is milder and the snow cover is thinner. Until late March to early April, they will remain in their winter tents and graze their livestock on the grasses of the craggy mountains. Where before humans caused so much devastation, nowadays the Kalamaili is a place where man and nature live in harmony. 

Tianjin Ancient Culture Street

Located on the west bank of the majestic Hai River, Tianjin Ancient Culture Street attracts visitors from across the country, all seeking to admire its architecture, purchase some of the folk handicrafts on sale in its stores, and sample some traditional Tianjin-style snacks. This business street extends for 687 metres (2,254 ft.), from Gongbei Avenue in the north to Gongnan Avenue in the south. Although the street wasn’t officially opened until 1986 and many of its buildings only date back to the 1980s, they were designed to imitate the classical architectural styles of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties. Chinese blue-bricks were used instead of cement in order to give the buildings a more authentic appearance. Walking down this narrow alleyway, you’ll feel transported back in time to ancient China; providing you ignore the skyscrapers in the distance, of course!

While the term “ancient” may seem like something of a misnomer, the street isn’t strictly occupied by historical replicas. The Tianhou Palace, which rests at the centre, was originally constructed in 1326, during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), although it has since been repeatedly renovated. The palace houses one of the only three surviving temples in China dedicated to the goddess Mazu. Since Tianjin was a trading port of great historical prominence, it is understandable that they would place so much emphasis on Mazu, as she was widely regarded to be the goddess of seafarers and fishermen. 

According to local legend, it is believed that she was a shamaness named Lin Mo who was born in Putian of Fujian province. She was apparently much more intelligent than other children of her age, and could predict the good or ill luck of others with startling accuracy. After her death, she supposedly continued to help merchants and fishermen in times of danger. Alongside the temple, the palace contains the Opera Hall, the Cannon-Storing Pavilion, the Bell-Drum Tower, the Memorial Archway, the Qisheng Temple, and the Zhangxian Pavilion, among other attractions. Throughout its myriad of halls, you’ll find dazzling displays of folk handicrafts and ancient cultural relics.  

To this day, the palace is still used for ceremonial rituals that are held in honour of Mazu, the largest of which is the 4-day Huanghui Fair. This grand folk fair is held every year around the 23rd day of the third month according to the Chinese lunar calendar, as this is believed to be Mazu’s birthday. During this time, the street comes to life with magnificent performances, such as dragon dances, lion dances, Shaolin martial arts, stilt walking, folk dancing, Peking opera, and local opera.

The Tianhou Palace may seem to have the greatest historical pedigree, but it’s technically not the oldest resident on the street! The Yuhuang Taoist Temple, a two-floor pavilion offering a bird’s eye view of the entire street, dates back to the Ming Dynasty and is the oldest structure still in its original form. Its doors and windows are resplendent with colourful paintings, depicting scenes from classical texts such as Dream of the Red Chamber and Song of Everlasting Sorrow. From legendary tales and historical events to simple tableaus of flowers and birds, these paintings are a feast for the eyes.

With over a hundred stores selling a variety of handicrafts and antiques, Tianjin Ancient Culture Street is also the ideal location to pick up a few souvenirs. The famed Yang Liuqing New Year Paintings and Niren Zhang Painted Sculptures are both sold here, resting alongside a plethora of jade carvings, cloisonné, embroidery, calligraphy brushes, silver jewellery, and traditional pottery. If you’re feeling peckish, there are plenty of street-food vendors and restaurants sandwiched between the numerous stores. Local delicacies such as Goubuli Steamed Dumplings, Erduoyan (Ear-hole Lane) Fried Glutinous Cakes, and Tea Soup are sure to help keep your stamina up during those long hours of browsing and bargaining!  

Shenyang

Though not as well-known as Beijing or Shanghai, Shenyang has one of the most colourful histories of any city in China. As the capital of Liaoning province and the largest city in the Northeast, it represents the cultural and economic centre of a region once known as Manchuria. Archaeological findings have shown that the area surrounding the city was populated over 8,000 years ago and the remains of a Neolithic society, known as the Xinle culture, take pride of place in the city’s Xinle Site Museum. By 300 BC, the city had been firmly established, but it wouldn’t reach its full potential until many years later. 

In 1625, the Manchu leader Nurhaci captured Shenyang and made it his administrative centre. By 1626, he had already begun constructing an imperial palace in the city and, in 1634, he renamed it “Mukden” in Manchu or “Shengjing” in Chinese, which meant “rising capital”. Built to resemble the Forbidden City, the Mukden Palace boasts over 300 luxuriously decorated rooms and 20 gardens, demonstrating the power and grandeur of the Manchu regime. By the early 17th century, the Manchu controlled all of northeast China and began plotting to conquer the reigning Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). 

In 1636, Nurhaci’s son Hong Taiji founded the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), thus formally announcing his intention to become Emperor. Though he technically never succeeded, the Manchu did supplant the Ming Dynasty and, in 1644, his son took the throne as the Shunzhi Emperor. They transferred their imperial capital to Beijing, but Shenyang maintained its prestige since the tomb complexes of both Nurhaci and Hong Taiji were located there. 

Alongside the Mukden Palace, these tombs, known as the Fuling Tomb and the Zhaoling Tomb respectively, were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. All of these historic sites are unique in that their architecture is a perfect intermingling of traditional Han Chinese and Manchurian styles. While these are undoubtedly the most popular attractions in Shenyang, there’s definitely more to the city than lavish palaces and dusty mausoleums! 

For example, the city is home to a variety of museums, such as the Liaoning Provincial Museum, the Shenyang Steam Locomotive Museum, and the 9.18 Museum. The latter is shaped to look like a giant calendar and is entirely dedicated to the Mukden Incident. On September 18th 1931, a small quantity of dynamite was detonated close to a railway line near Shenyang that was owned by the Japanese South Manchuria Railway Company. The blast was largely believed to have been orchestrated by the Imperial Japanese Army, who accused Chinese dissidents of the act and used it as an excuse to launch a full invasion of the city. 

Using Shenyang as their base, they went on to occupy the rest of northeast China and established the puppet state of Manchukuo. It is widely regarded as one of the most unpleasant chapters in Chinese history, and the museum unflinchingly documents the events and war crimes that took place from the Mukden Incident onwards. While it’s not for the faint of heart, it provides an invaluable window into the country’s modern history. 

Don’t be disheartened, not all of the sites in the city are quite so sombre! At the centre of Heping District, Zhongshan Square boasts one of the largest statues of Chairman Mao, and is tantalisingly close to the city’s Korea Town. Thanks to its proximity to Korea, many ethnic Koreans live in Shenyang and this vibrant area, lined with golden gingko trees, is the ideal place to sample some delicious Korean barbecue or soak in the city’s nightlife.

If you’re looking to escape the raucous crowds, the Shenyang International Expo Garden is a refreshing slice of nature in this bustling metropolis. It was once the Shenyang Botanical Garden but, after hosting the 2006 International Horticultural Exposition, it was expanded to include international themed gardens, amusement park rides, and the magnificent Lily Tower, a massive structure shaped like its namesake flower. In fact, the city itself is renowned for its numerous green spaces, including six large parks and eighteen riverside gardens. So, if you’re looking for a real urban jungle, Shenyang is the place for you!

Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon

Covering a colossal area of 60 square kilometres (23 sq. mi), the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon is a startling natural wonder that is begging to be explored by nature lovers and thrill seekers alike. The canyon is arguably most well-known for the Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge, which crosses its vast chasm, yet there’s so much more on offer in this verdant paradise! In order to make the most out of your trip to the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon, you should aim to hike either from the bottom to the top, or vice versa. Be forewarned, however, that this is no easy feat!

As you climb either away from or towards the glass bridge, you’ll need to navigate your way through an area known as the “Strip of Sky.” This valley is so narrow that only one person can pass through it at a time and, as you look up, you should only be able to see a thin sliver of sky, which is how the area got its unusual nickname. The valley itself is over 700 metres (765 yd.) long and leads to the Sky Ladder Plank Road, which is a planked walkway that is supposedly so steep it appears as though you’re walking up into the heavens! In fact, this stairway to heaven is made up of over 1,600 stone steps, which should give you some idea of just how steep it truly is.

From the walkway, you should be able to see the South Red Flag Canal, which is about 1 metre (3 ft.) deep and 1 metre (3 ft.) wide. It took the local people over seven years to excavate and the endeavour cost many of them their lives, but it now provides valuable drinking and irrigation water to eight nearby villages by directing spring water down from the towering cliffs. Once you reach the top of the Sky Ladder Plank Road, however, you’ll be greeted by arguably the most famous attraction within the scenic area.

The Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge, also known as the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon Skywalk, stretches for 430 metres (1,410 ft.) in length, 6 metres (20 ft.) in width, and a staggering 300 metres (985 ft.) in height, which makes it the longest and tallest glass bridge in the world! In fact, during its construction, the bridge ended up setting ten world records. This engineering marvel was designed by celebrated Israeli architect Haim Dotan and can carry up to 800 visitors at a time. Unlike the glass bridge at Tianmen Mountain within Zhangjiajie, which is embedded directly into the cliff-face, the Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge spans the sprawling valley of the canyon itself.

In order to build this spectacular bridge, engineers had to first embed four support pillars into the walls of the canyon on either side. The bridge itself consists of a metal frame and over 120 glass panels, which are each 3-layered and made up of 5-centimetre (2 in.) thick slabs of tempered glass. You may be surprised to hear that, at its centre, there is even a specialised 285-metre (935 ft.) high bungee-jumping platform. What attracts most visitors to the bridge, however, is the panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and the experience of walking as though you are among the clouds. 

On the other side of the canyon lies a pair of unusual rock formations known poetically as Barrel Cliff and Flying Fox Rushing Downhill. Barrel Cliff is a completely cylindrical cliff that looks so perfect in shape that it’s hard to believe it was not carved by human hands. To this day, no one can explain why it is the only cylindrical cliff in the area and why, unlike the other mountains in the area, no trees grow on its sides. By contrast, the Flying Fox Rushing Downhill refers to a particular landscape rather than a rock formation. It is made up simply of a waterfall and a large rock jutting out from the cliff-face. When the water cascades over the rock, it sprays out and forms a cover, which is said to look like a fox running down the cliff. Much like its cunning counterpart in real life, it may be hard to spot this slippery water-fox!

The next highlights along the hiking route are the Pearl Wall and the Butterfly Spring Waterfall, which give the area an ethereal quality. The Pearl Wall is another cliff-face where a crystal clear spring slowly flows down the rock-face, upon which many plants are growing. The lush green plants are regularly covered in small droplets of water, which are said to look like pearls and have lent the attraction its delightful name. Unlike the previous attractions, however, the Butterfly Spring Waterfall is not simply a poetic name. For unknown reasons, this particular waterfall attracts the attention of hundreds of butterflies, which can frequently be seen dancing about in the misty air. The nearby Swallow Cliff is similarly home to thousands of cliff swallows, who choose to nest directly on the cliff-face. They are smaller than regular sparrows and can often be seen flitting around the cliff-face as they gather food for their young. 

The end of the canyon is marked by a large reservoir, which you’ll need to cross by boat. As you float leisurely across the reservoir, you may spot a few ducks bobbing on the water or even a handful of snow-white egrets flying above you. After a long day of hiking and conquering your fears, the final boat ride makes for an ideal end to an exhausting yet rewarding trip. 

The Suoyang Relics

Located within the vast and hostile expanse of the Gobi Desert, the Suoyang Relics have miraculously managed to avoid being buried beneath the sands of time. These relics are all that remain of an illustrious Silk Road oasis city known as Suoyang, which was established over 2,000 years ago! In 2014, its status as a historical site of invaluable importance was cemented, as it was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The city was first founded during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD), but it didn’t receive the name of Suoyang until the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), which was thanks to a classical novel named Xue Rengui’s Campaign to the West. This novel claims to detail the campaigns of a famous Tang Dynasty military general known as Xue Rengui. According to legend, Xue was passing through the area with his army on his way to conquer the West when he tragically ran out of supplies just outside of the city. Luckily, his troops came across an edible plant known as Cynomorium or “Suoyang” (锁阳) in Chinese and this is what saved them from an untimely death. From then onwards, the city was named Suoyang after this life-saving plant!

While the miraculous survival of Xue Rengui and his army is probably a fabrication or an exaggeration, the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) did undeniably represent the period of greatest prosperity for this burgeoning oasis city. Its location within the Hexi Corridor made it a key stop along the ancient Silk Road and at its peak it boasted a population of over 50,000 people! During the An Lushan Rebellion (755-763), however, the Tang imperial government was severely weakened and was unable to maintain control of cities in remote parts of their territory, such as Suoyang. Thus the city fell under the control of the Tibetan Empire in 776 and wouldn’t be returned to the Tang until 849, when it was recaptured by a skilled Tang general named Zhang Yichao. 

After the collapse of the Tang Dynasty, the Western Xia Dynasty occupied the region in 1036 and Suoyang became a major part of the Western Xia Empire. Historians know very little about this mysterious empire, which was ruled by a Turkic people known as the Tanguts. Much like the Tang Dynasty, however, Suoyang continued to flourish during this period as a cultural, economic, and military centre. While the city never quite lived up to its former glory in later dynasties, it did serve as a sanctuary for the King of Hami and his followers in 1472, when the Chenghua Emperor of the Ming Dynasty moved them to Suoyang after they had been threatened by the Mongols.

In 1494, the Hongzhi Emperor decided to repair and refortify the city walls that had been constructed during the Tang and Western Xia dynasties, but tragically his efforts were in vain. Two decades later, the city was attacked and occupied by a Mongol named Mansur Khan, who ruled the empire of Moghulistan. Incessant infighting between the Mongols and other nomadic tribes belonging to Moghulistan caused severe damage to the city and it was subsequently abandoned.  

Nowadays, the ruins of the city lay scattered across the Gobi Desert and are comprised of four main sections: the inner city, the outer city, the yangmacheng fortresses, and the Ta’er Temple. The inner city is patterned in the shape of an irregular rectangle and is surrounded by rammed earth walls that are still between 9 to 12 metres (30 to 40 ft.) in height. The entire city structure is arranged around two main streets that begin at the northern and western gates respectively, from which branch all the smaller streets and alleyways that make up this vast labyrinthine city.

There is a smaller partition wall within the inner city itself that divides it into two sections: the larger wester district and the smaller eastern district. The western district is home to the remains of several residential buildings, while most of the buildings in the eastern district have tragically been completely destroyed. Historians estimate that, due to its size and the shape of its remaining buildings, the eastern district was most likely the area where government buildings and the residences of high-ranking officials were located, whereas the western district was occupied by the general populace. Alongside these remains, one of the main features of the inner city is an 18-metre (59 ft.) tall adobe watchtower in its northwest corner that is miraculously still standing. 

The outer city unsurprisingly encloses the inner city and is thus also in the shape of an irregular rectangle. It is similarly surrounded by rammed earth walls, which have fallen down in several places and currently range from between 4 to 11 metres (13 to 36 ft.) in height. This outer city is believed to represent the extent to which Suoyang had grown at its peak during the Tang Dynasty. The southern wall, however, was destroyed by a flood and was never repaired, indicating that this section of the city had gradually fallen into disuse. 

Between the inner and outer cities lie a series of special fortresses known as yangmacheng, which literally translates to mean “sheep-and-horse city.” Don’t worry; farm animals didn’t miraculously achieve sentience and build their own city in ancient times! The name simply derives from the fact that, during peacetime, these fortresses would be used as animal enclosures in order prevent disease by keeping humans and livestock apart. This innovation meant that the fortresses were effectively utilised during both wartime and peacetime. These spectacular fortresses, however, were exclusively used during the Tang Dynasty and were largely abandoned thereafter.  

You may be wondering: How did this vibrant city support its substantial human and livestock population in the barren expanse of the Gobi Desert? This was thanks to an ingenious irrigation system, which channelled water directly from the nearby Shule River into over 90 kilometres (56 mi) of canals that covered an area of around 60 square kilometres (23 sq. mi). Nowadays, it ranks as one of the most extensive ancient irrigation systems in the world. 

The Ta’er Temple

While the Buddhist Ta’er or “Pagoda” Temple is considered part of the Suoyang scenic area, it is not part of the city proper and rests just 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) east of it. A number of historical documents indicate that the Ta’er Temple may in fact actually be the King Ashoka Temple, which means it dates all the way back to the Northern Zhou Dynasty (557-581 AD). The temple was tragically destroyed during this period as part of Emperor Wu’s suppression of Buddhism, but was rebuilt during the Tang and Western Xia dynasties. It was during the Tang Dynasty that the great monk Xuanzang supposedly preached at the temple for a month before setting off on his famous pilgrimage to India. Many of the extant remains of the temple, however, date back to the Western Xia Dynasty, including the main pagoda and eleven smaller subsidiary pagodas. Alongside these pagodas, there lie the remnants of a drum tower, a bell tower, and the residential quarters of the monks. 

Standing at an impressive 15 metres (48 ft.) in height, the main pagoda of the temple is undeniably the highlight of the complex. It is an adobe structure that is covered in white lime and shaped in such a way that it resembles an upturned bowl. During the 1940s, local eyewitnesses claimed to have seen a band of robbers break open the main pagoda and take numerous Buddhist artefacts that they found inside. After this report, archaeologists began searching the pagodas of the temple and found within one of the smaller pagodas a copy of the Buddhist mantra Om mani padme hum written in the Tangut script of the Western Xia Dynasty. This extremely rare document is one of the only remaining examples left of the Tangut script. If the robbery hadn’t happened, archaeologists may never have found this priceless gem, so it seems every cloud does have a silver lining after all! 

Alongside the Ta’er Temple, there are a multitude of ancient tombs and cemeteries that lie outside of Suoyang. Over 2,100 tombs have been discovered, some of which date as far back as the Han Dynasty! Only one of these tombs, however, has been excavated by archaeologists. Much like the pagodas of the Ta’er Temple, this vast Tang Dynasty tomb was explored in 1992 after it was disturbed by grave robbers. Within the tomb itself they found artefacts of incredible value, such as porcelain figurines, tomb guardians, silks, and coins, which indicate that the tomb most likely belonged to a governor or wealthy merchant. None of these tombs are currently open to the public, but many of the artefacts discovered within this particular tomb are exhibited at the nearby Suoyang Museum. 

Explore more about the Suoyang Relics on our travel: 

Explore the Silk Road in China

Explore the Silk Road in China – Exclusive Itinerary for December 2020

Explore the Majesty of Buddhist Grotto Art Along the Silk Road

Mount Danxia

Rising out of the lush greenery of northern Guangdong province like a series of oddly shaped columns, the rock formations of Mount Danxia are as bizarre as they are marvellous. In fact, the mountain range’s appearance is so unusual that it even gave rise to a new geological term: the Danxia Landform. Although Danxia Landforms can be found throughout the country, they are unique to China. They are formed of red sandstone and other minerals, which have been deposited by rivers over a period of about 24 million years. These deposits settled into distinct layers and, after another 15 million years, faults in the earth created by tectonic plate movement caused them to become exposed. Over another few millions of years, they were moulded into strange shapes by weathering and erosion, resulting in the rocky outcrops that we find today. 

In 2010, along with a host of other Danxia Landforms, Mount Danxia was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site under the collective title “China Danxia”. The region itself benefits from a subtropical climate and is blessed with frequent rainfall, so the mountains are blanketed in thick forests containing several rare tree and plant species. Among these, there are twenty-eight ancient trees that are over one hundred years old, and fourteen that have survived for more than three centuries. After such a long time, these trees give new meaning to the term evergreen!

The Mount Danxia Scenic Area is made up of over 680 various rock formations, including stone peaks, walls, pillars, and even bridges. Set against the azure sky, with jade waters trickled at their base and grassy outcrops clinging to their façade, they form a picturesque tableau in the tranquil countryside of Guangdong. Visitors can take a relaxing boat ride down the Jin River and marvel at the mountains from below, or choose to tackle them head-on. The main peak only rises to approximately 410 metres (1,340 ft.), making for a rewarding but leisurely hike. 

Alongside the main columns of the mountain range, the scenic area incorporates a myriad of peculiar attractions, including: the Yangyuan or “Male/Father Stone”, which is so-named because of its startling resemblance to a phallus; the Yinyuan or “Female/Mother Stone”, which faces and complements its masculine neighbour; and the Breast Stones, a pair of round rocky ledges protruding from a cliff-face above the ground. Evidently whoever named these stone formations had only one thing on their mind!  

Like many other mountains across China, Mount Danxia has been an important Buddhist site since the Sui Dynasty (581-618) and features a number of temples, including Biezhuan Temple on Zhanglao Peak. Countless cliff tombs and cliff coffins can also be found throughout the scenic area, some of them dating back over a thousand years. Yet it is the plethora of poems, carvings, and inscriptions left behind by historic writers and painters that attest to Mount Danxia’s enduring popularity. They act as proof that, no matter the era, this mountain range will continue to inspire awe in its visitors for centuries to come.  

The Bingling Temple Grottoes

The Binglingsi or Bingling Temple Grottoes boast a history that stretches back over 1,600 years ago! Within these ancient grottoes, there are statues and murals that were constructed from the Western Qin Dynasty (385-431) right through until the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). This cluster of caves has been carved directly onto a steep cliff-face within the Dasigou Gorge on the northern bank of the Yellow River. 

This grotto complex is separated into two main sections: the Upper Temple, and the Lower Temple. Out of the 200 caves that have survived, 184 of them are located within the Lower Temple, which is open to the public. The largest statue within these grottoes towers in at over 27 metres (89 ft.) in height, while the smallest is less than 20 centimetres (8 in) tall. After all, when it comes to showing your devotion, size doesn’t always matter!

Among these 184 caves, the largest and most valuable one is Cave 169. What makes this cave so special is that most of the surviving murals and statues within its interior date all the way back to the Western Qin Dynasty. It is also home to the oldest statues following the “Three Saints of the West” motif in China.

From the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534) onwards, Buddhist art started to adopt more Chinese features and was progressively being Sinicized. Most of the statues within the Bingling Temple Grottoes were sculpted during the reign of Emperor Xuanwu (512-515) of the Northern Wei.

During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the  Bingling Temple area became an important hub for people travelling from central China to Tibet. New grottoes and niches were constructed. As time went on, the style of the statues and the art was influenced by a hectic mixture of cultures.

In Tibetan, the term “Xianba Bingling” translates to mean “one thousand Buddhas” or “one hundred thousand Buddhas,” although the temple didn’t receive this illustrious name until the reign of the Yongle Emperor (1403-1425) during the Ming Dynasty.

Tibetan Buddhism began to flourish in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), during which time numerous Tibetan Buddhist monks flocked to the Bingling Temple Grottoes to worship. As a consequence, many of these monks converted the existing Buddhist statues into ones that followed the Esoteric style, and similarly painted over some of the simpler murals. For this reason, you may notice that colour of the paint on all of the Esoteric Buddhist murals is still very bright, since they are relatively new by comparison to their counterparts.