The Golden Temple

Atop the delightfully named Mingfeng or “Singing Phoenix” Hill in Kunming’s Jindian Park sits the majestic Golden Temple. It is the most famous Taoist temple in China not only because of its tranquil setting and impressive size, but predominantly because it is the largest bronze temple in China. From the doors to the roof tiles, everything in the temple has been made entirely out of bronze! Its official name is Taihe Palace or the Hall of Supreme Harmony, but its glittering appearance has earned it the names Tongwa or “Bronze Tile” Temple and the Golden Temple. Made from a whopping 250 tonnes of bronze, the Golden Temple is an architectural wonder unmatched throughout China.

The history of the Golden Temple stretches all the way back to the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), during the reign of the Wanli Emperor (1572-1620), when it was initially built almost by accident. The imperial government had ordered Yunnan province to send large quantities of bronze ore from its mines in Dongchuan to Central China so that it could be used to make coins. However, on the long and arduous path to the mint, the roads were made impassable due to the on-going wars at the time, so the cargo was trapped in Kunming.

The governor of Yunnan, Chen Yongbing, was a devout Taoist and ordered that the bronze ore be used to build a replica of the Golden Temple in the Wudang Mountains of Hubei province. The replica was promptly built but bizarrely, in 1637, Yongbing’s temple was moved for political reasons to the Jizu Mountains of western Yunnan, leaving behind only the marble base. If you think your workout at the gym is hard, imagine moving a 250-tonne solid bronze temple up a mountain!

It wasn’t until 1671, during the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), that Wu Sangui, the then governor of Yunnan, decided to build yet another replica of Yongbing’s Golden Temple on the old marble base that was left behind in Kunming. We have to believe that if a temple is so great it’s worth building three times, then it’s definitely worth a visit! Whilst the original temple in the Jizu Mountains sustained irreparable damage in the 1960s, the Golden Temple in Kunming stands tall to this day. It was damaged slightly during the Muslim rebellion in 1857, but since its restoration in 1890 it has remained largely unchanged. Its walls, columns, rafters, roof tiles, altars, statues, decorations and banners are all made from bronze, and have dazzled visitors with their beauty to this day.

Nowadays, if you want to visit the Golden Temple you must first scale the many marble steps of Mingfeng Hill and pass through a series of Heavenly Gates. The three Heavenly Gates that lead directly into the temple are considered the most beautiful, as they have been intricately decorated and painted. After your long and, hopefully, rather spiritual trial up the hill, you’ll come upon a miniature, medieval city wall raised on a platform. Near to this wall, the Lingxing Gate marks the entrance to the temple.

In the temple itself, you’ll find a number of fascinating artefacts relating to the history of the temple, including a double-edged sword with the Big Dipper engraved on it. This sword, which weighs more than 22 kilograms (44 pounds), is supposedly the legendary magical sword of the Taoist deity Zhen Wu, who is said to guard Mingfeng Hill. Alongside this colossal sword, Wu Sangui’s 12-kilogram (25 pound) broadsword seems markedly less impressive. Next to the temple, there’s a stunningly beautiful camellia tree that has signalled the approach of Spring every year for over 600 years. Every time this ancient tree blossoms, its burst of colour is no less magnificent.

Just behind the temple, you’ll find a three-storey high Bell Tower that was built in 1984. Although the tower itself is rather new, it is home to the “Great Bell of the Ming Yongle Era”, which is over 580 years old. This bell is nearly 4 metres (17 ft.) high and weighs a monumental 14 tonnes. It once hung in the Xuanhua Mansion and was used to announce the time, but was moved to the temple when the city of Kunming began expanding. We’re not 100% sure, but we’re pretty certain that every bell ringer unfortunate enough to work in the Xuanhua Mansion must have gone deaf rather fast.

In recent years, the temple has been expanded to include the Parrot Garden, Camellia Garden, and Orchid Garden. Its verdant hillsides and blooming orchards play host to a multitude of pine trees, evergreens, hardy cypresses, and other plants, all helping to earn it the nickname the “Fairyland of Mingfeng”. No matter what you find here, be it historical knowledge, spiritual enlightenment, inner peace, or just a very big bell, we’re sure you’ll enjoy your trip to the Golden Temple.

Daxu Ancient Town

Daxu Ancient Town is like a small pearl nestled on the bank of the Li River. Although it is considered one of the Four Great Ancient Towns of Guangxi, it rarely receives visitors and has yet to be officially made into a tourist attraction. This means that, unlike other ancient towns, it is free to enter and there are hardly any crowds there to obstruct your unhindered joy of the fine architecture, flagstone streets, and locals plying their simple trade. Daxu Ancient Town is located on the east bank of the Li River, about 23 kilometres (14.3 miles) southeast of the city of Guilin. Its history dates back over 2,000 years, when Qin Shi Huang of the Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.) built the Lingqu Canal and connected the Xiang River from the Yangtze River system to the Li River.

Once these rivers were connected, Daxu begin to blossom as one of the leading trade and transportation hubs in the country. Daxu was one of the few ports along the river that connected Central China with South China, so it was a vital stopping point for traders transporting goods across the country. By the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1126), Daxu was one of the richest and most influential towns in Guangxi province. Its success peaked during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and this was when many of its landmark buildings, such as the ancient main road and the Longevity Bridge, were built. However, by the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the development of modern railways had rendered Daxu redundant as a trade hub and its prosperity rapidly declined. Thanks to the tireless efforts of the local people, unlike the ghost towns on the Silk Road, Daxu Ancient Town has continued to survive and thrive well into the 21st century.

The Old Street, which stretches 2.5 kilometres through the town, is the greatest remnant of the town’s glorious past. It is paved with blue flagstones that have been worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, cartwheels and horse hooves. The thirteen docks that were once used during Daxu’s booming era of trade still stand and five of them are so well-maintained that they are still in use today. As you traverse the Old Street, walking along the same path that so many before you have tread, and reach the fine docks with their simple, wooden platforms, you’ll undoubtedly be transported back to a humbler time, when merchants dressed in silk finery would load their boats with spices, embroidered cloths, and shimmering jewellery, and set sail down the river to the next trade port.

Many of the buildings in Daxu were built during the Ming and Qing dynasties and have sustained the intricate, architectural touches from that time. These wood and stone buildings are decorated with beautiful carvings and the Hanhuang Temple, Gaozu Temple and Longevity Temple are the finest examples of this architectural style. All of these temples were built during the Qing Dynasty, when the town was still prospering, and they exquisitely exhibit the artistry of the architecture at that time. With so many temples in one small place, it is no wonder that Daxu seems so tranquil.

Daxu ancient town03However, the star attraction of Daxu is undoubtedly the Wanshou or Longevity Bridge. This stone arch dates all the way back to the Ming Dynasty and, though simplistic in its design, it provides a wonderful vantage point from which to admire the Li River. If you stand on Longevity Bridge and look out to the west bank, you’ll be greeted with scenes of lush greenery, winding waters, and water buffalo quietly grazing on the shores. Directly across from the bridge, you’ll be met with Millstone Hill and Snail Hill, two of the Karst formations whose names derive from their unusual shapes. Though the architecture of the Longevity Bridge may not be as magnificent as that of the Longevity Temple, the view from the bridge is unmatched.

In the 1990s, an element of mystery was added to Daxu Ancient Town when archaeologists unearthed what are now known as the Seven Star Tombs. These are seven tombs that were found arranged in the shape of the Big Dipper constellation. The size of each tomb is based on the brightness of the star it was meant to represent. It is the first recorded case of such a tomb site in China and the connection between the tombs and the Big Dipper constellation has yet to be elucidated. However, many ancient artefacts, such as pottery and bronze swords, have been excavated from the tombs. Thanks to carbon dating, these artefacts have shown that these tombs date all the way back to the period between the Warring States Period (c. 476-221 B.C.) and the Western Han Dynasty (207 B.C.-25 A.D.).

Aside from the historical importance of Daxu, this town is also a wonderful example of living history. Many of the villagers in Daxu all ply their own traditional handicrafts. The women of Daxu still brew their baijiu[1] using old barrels and a simple distillery, an archaic method for making baijiu that has all but disappeared in more urban parts of China. The locals still craft their bamboo baskets and straw sandals carefully by hand and the traditional Chinese medical clinics, of which there are about 20 in Daxu, still disseminate an aroma of medicinal herbs and traditional remedies throughout the town. Daxu is not simply an ancient town; it is a place of ancient tradition.

To truly immerse yourself in these ancient traditions, we recommend you wander through the streets during market time. This market has been a staple part of daily life in Daxu since the Ming Dynasty, although it has grown smaller over the years. Many villagers will each set up a stall, some selling handicrafts, such as paintings, ceramics or woven cloths, other selling Chinese medicines, and still others plying local delicacies such as quail’s eggs, dried fruit and homemade dumplings. The market is a spectacle of ancient Chinese culture that should not be missed. If you want to immerse yourself in the more rural life of Daxu, some of the local farmers will allow you to go fruit picking on their land. Picking strawberries near the Li River is a wonderful way to while away a few hours and harvest some delicious snacks in the process.

Daxu Ancient Town is relatively easy to get to. There are regular buses from Guilin Bus station that take about 40 minutes to reach the town.

[1] Baijiu: It literally means “white alcohol” or “white liquor” in Chinese. It is a strong, clear spirit that is usually distilled from sorghum, glutinous rice or wheat.

Dianchi Lake

With a nickname like the “Sparkling Pearl Embedded in the Highland”, you know that Dianchi Lake has a serious reputation to live up to. It is a freshwater fault lake nestled at the foot of the mountains just south of Kunming and stands at an impressive 1,886 metres (6,189 ft.) above sea level. It covers a total area of just under 300 square kilometres (115 sq. mi), making it nearly as large as the entire country of Malta and ranking it as the eighth largest lake in China. It stretches 39 kilometres (24 mi) from north to south and 13 kilometres (8 mi) from east to west, with an average depth of 4.4 metres (14 ft.). So, unless you’re a professional basketball player or an Olympic swimmer, we strongly recommend you stick to a boat when navigating this watery behemoth!

Its natural banks have been formed by mountains and four hills rise in each direction, giving the lake a truly picturesque appearance. There’s the Jinma or Golden Horse Hill in the east, the Biji or Jade Rooster Hill in the west, the Baihe or White Crane Hill in the south, and the Sheshan or Snake Hill in the north. The mystical names and ethereal quality of these hills give the lake the appearance of an otherworldly paradise, particularly when you catch sight of the stunning scenery reflected in its waters.

Unfortunately, pollution has rendered the lake water undrinkable and it is currently ranked at Grade V, the lowest water purification level, meaning it is unfit for agricultural or industrial use. Though this pollution has caused the lake’s fish population to wane, fishermen still ply their trade on these crystal clear waters in much the same way as their ancestors did over one hundred years ago and it is still possible to swim in designated parts of the lake.

The history of the lake is delicately intertwined with the history of Yunnan itself. Throughout the Yuan (1271-1368) and early Ming (1368-1644) dynasties, the alluvial plain at the north of the lake was extensively irrigated to provide farmland for locals. However, evidence suggests that the lake may have been settled by farmers as early as the 2nd century BC! It was once the capital of the Dian Kingdom (500-109 BC), an independent state that eventually became part of the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), and was also subsequently the centre of the Nanzhao (738-902) and Dali (937-1253) Kingdoms. With such a regal background, it’s no wonder people regard Dianchi as a pearl in the Yunnan countryside.

Along the lake, you’ll find a number of attractions that are sure to delight you. Daguan Park is bursting with beautiful rock gardens, elegant pavilions and sturdy bridges, with the Daguan Pavilion at its centre. The pavilion was built in 1828 and has one of the most famous Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) couplets engraved upon it. This couplet is 180 characters long and is thus one of the longest couplets in Chinese history, brimming with poetic grace and imbued with historical significance.

The White Fish Park on the west bank of the lake is so named for a small hill, which looks like a white fish opening its mouth. This park is characterised by its verdant gardens and is particularly beautiful during spring, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and the crisp white sails of fishing boats can be seen far off in the distance.

dianchi lake 04At Haigeng Bank, Dianchi’s south bank, visitors can walk among the slender willow trees gently billowing in the breeze and take advantage of the natural swimming pool that is set up there during summer. Nearby you’ll find the Yunnan Folk Customs Village, where tourists can learn more about the resident Bai, Yi, and Dai ethnic minorities. With all of these wonderful attractions on offer, Dianchi Lake isn’t just any lake; it’s practically a theme park!

Dali

The name Dali sounds almost mythical, like the heavenly Shangri-La or the legendary island of Avalon. Nestled beneath the verdant Cangshan Mountains in the west and bordering the crystal clear Erhai Lake in the east, you’ll find the name is befitting of this earthly paradise.

The city was once the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, which ruled large areas of Yunnan and northern Burma and parts of Sichuan and Guizhou. It is commonly believed that the Nanzhao rulers were the precursors of either the Yi or Bai ethnic minority. The kingdom was established in 738 A.D. and managed to hold on to its substantial empire for an impressive 160 years, until its collapse in 902. The kingdom’s prosperity was predominantly due to its control of the major trade routes between Central China and Southeast Asia, and thus Dali flourished as a trade hub. When the Nanzhao rulers converted to Buddhism, the city became instrumental in the dissemination of the religion across China.

After several decades of chaos following the fall of the Nanzhao Kingdom, the Kingdom of Dali was established by Duan Siping in 937. The ruling Duan clan are commonly seen as the ancestors of the Bai people. Dali remained the kingdom’s capital and retained its status as an important transportation centre, thanks to the kingdom’s close ties with the Tang Dynasty (618-907). It acted as one of the major transit points on the Silk Road and by the year 1000 it had been transformed into one of the 13 largest cities in the world. These ancient empires helped foster Dali’s growth and transformed it into the thriving city that we see today, but tragically they would meet a bitter and bloody end.

In 1253, the Mongols conquered the city and usurped the Dali Empire. They laid waste to the old city and destroyed the Palace of the Dali Kingdom. In the chaos, almost all records of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms were burned or destroyed, which is why so little is known about their histories. The Mongolians’ brutality forced many of the locals out of Yunnan, pushing the Bai ethnic minority as far as Hunan province. Dali subsequently became an important military outpost under the famous Mongolian leader Kublai Khan.

Thankfully, the Mongolians were defeated when the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) was established. The Hongwu Emperor took it upon himself to rebuild the ancient city in the 1400s and nowadays most of what you see in Dali Ancient Town was part of this rebuild. These old Ming-style buildings have been preserved for hundreds of years and have since been adapted into hotels, antique stores, and teahouses. It is strange to think that this tranquil place was founded on such harrowing violence.

The climate is temperate throughout the year, meaning it benefits from moderate summers and mild winters. The only drawback is the autumns and winters can be a little windy, so switch out that emergency umbrella for a raincoat or you may end up looking like Mary Poppins! The city is separated into two districts; the “new city” in the south, known as Xiaguan, and the “old city” in the north, known as Gucheng or Dali Ancient Town. In an effort to preserve the old city, the government has banned the construction of new buildings there and barred anyone from driving motor vehicles through its streets. It is a purely pedestrianized district, so be prepared for long walks.

Both the modern and ancient districts of Dali now boast many wonderful tourist attractions that are sure to tempt you. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple enjoy great fame throughout Yunnan, as the 1,200-year-old Central Pagoda is one of the few remnants of Dali’s ancient Buddhist past. The nearby Cangshan Mountains are a popular spot for adventure tourists looking to explore the Zhonghe Temple and the Butterfly Spring, which is perpetually shrouded in a flurry of multi-coloured butterflies. The city also boasts some lovely museums, including the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum and the Palace of Du Wenxiu[1]. However, by far the most popular tourist attraction in Dali is the ancient city itself, with its stunning architecture, ethnic minority culture and plethora of teahouses, restaurants and vibrant Western bars.

Dali is about 350 kilometres from Kunming and can be reached by plane, train or bus. From Kunming to Dali, the flight takes about an hour, the train takes about 8 hours and the bus takes around 6 hours. There are numerous hotels and hostels throughout the city that range widely both in price and quality. If you’re travelling through Yunnan, be sure to grab your own little slice of paradise and make a stop in Dali.

[1] Du Wenxiu (1823-1872): He was a Chinese Muslim who led Muslims from the Hui ethnic minority in the Panthay Rebellion (1856-1873) against the Qing Dynasty. His headquarters were based in Dali.

Dali Ancient Town

As the Three Pagodas rise up through the mist on a cool spring morning in Dali, the people of old town wake up not to the roar of engines or the clamour of construction work, but to the peaceful pitter-patter of feet on flagstone streets and sweet chirping of birds. As an act of preservation, the local government banned the construction of new buildings and the use of motor vehicles in the ancient part of Dali, so it has remained truly unchanged since it was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Tragically much of the original city was lost when the Mongolians overthrew the Kingdom of Dali in 1253, but parts of the ancient capital still remain and are complemented beautifully by the perfectly preserved Ming-style architecture.

The ancient town is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations for foreign tourists and is speedily adapting to this end. The town itself exhibits wonderful examples of Ming-style architecture, from the elaborately carved eaves of the roofs through to the characteristically white-washed walls. It is also one of the few places where you can witness the traditional architecture of the Bai ethnic minority. The Bai people make up over 65% of Dali’s population at prefecture level and, with the multitude of Bai tearooms, batik[1] stores and homes scattered throughout the city, they certainly make their presence known.

Bai houses consist of three rooms: one main room and two side rooms. Facing the main room, there is always a wall called the “shining wall”. It is so called because, when the sun sets, the sunlight shining on the wall is reflected into the courtyard, thus brightening up the whole house. Bai people love to decorate their homes, so these traditional houses are flush with colourful paintings, woodcarvings, marble ornaments, and Bai batik cloth. Walking into a Bai household can feel like entering a precious art exhibition; it all looks so beautiful but you’re too scared to touch anything!

There are a number of Bai teahouses dotted throughout the old town where you can take part in the traditional Three Cups of Tea ceremony. First, you must drink one cup of bitter tea, then one cup of sweet tea, and finally one cup of aftertaste tea. The first represents suffering, the second represents the success and happiness that comes after hardship and the third represents reflection on the past. However, to the weary traveller they may all just represent a relaxing cup of tea!

If you fancy testing out your Chinese or your haggling skills, Yu’er Road hosts a plethora of antique and craftwork shops that are all placed very close together. You could easily spend a whole day browsing through all of the antiques, Bai batik works and Miao embroidered clothes on offer. However, the most marvellous souvenirs are the ornaments made from Dali marble. Dali is famous throughout China for its many types of marble, which are used both in construction and for decorative objects. This marble is so famous that the Chinese word for marble, “dàlǐ shí” (大理石), literally means “Dali stone”. Some of the larger and more complex marble ornaments fetch prices of up to 10,000 yuan (about £1,000), so choose wisely or you may not have any money left for your flight home!

The town has become particularly famous for its Yangren or “Foreigners” Street, which is lined with some of the most vibrant Western-style cafés, restaurants, and bars that the city has to offer. Many of these establishments are run by foreigners who have chosen to settle in Dali, making them the perfect place to meet other backpackers and take a break from the Chinese way of life. There are plenty of hotels and hostels scattered throughout the old town, so you’ll never be at a loss if you want to get away from the commotion of the city’s modern district. The simple, old-fashioned way of life in Dali Ancient Town is what draws so many people here, and the city itself, surrounded by verdant mountains and shimmering lakes, is what makes them stay.

[1] Batik: A cloth-dying process whereby a knife that has been dipped in hot wax is used to draw a pattern onto the cloth. The cloth is then boiled in dye, which melts the wax. Once the wax has melted off, the cloth is removed from the boiling dye. The rest of the cloth will be coloured by the dye but the pattern under the wax will have remained the original colour of the cloth.

The Cangshan Mountains

A long time ago, the Plague God terrorised the city of Dali and its people suffered from endless calamity. In order to save them from this pestilence, a brother and sister from the tribe went far away to study magic. When they returned, they were so skilled in the arcane arts that they were able to banish the Plague God to the top of the Cangshan Mountains. When he reached the highest peak, he froze solid. The sister transformed into the God of Snow, settled on Xueren Peak, and vowed to keep him at bay. She is the one who keeps the mountains capped with snow year round so that he never thaws out.

From Malong, with its 4,122-metre-high summit, to Cangshan’s other 18 peaks, which each reach heights of over 3,500 metres, this mountain range is not for the faint of heart. Scaling its peaks entails hours of arduous struggle, scrabbling up the rock and beating back the sweltering heat. Or you could just take the cable car! Two cable cars operate on Cangshan and provide easy access to its peaks. The mountain range itself is massive, with plenty of natural and manmade attractions to fill an entire day, but how you choose to take advantage of it is up to you!

Cangshan has garnered great fame as the only place in Dali where you can see the city’s Four Famous Scenes; wind, flowers, snow, and the moon. Of course you can’t actually see the wind, but on top of those lofty mountains you can certainly feel it! It boasts a diverse plant population, with over 3,000 plant species thriving on its peaks. Eighteen streams run between the peaks and provide ample water to the verdant flora and dense forests. The mountains’ great elevation means that, in spite of the temperate climate, they are perpetually capped in snow, and the moonlight reflected off of their silvery summits is considered a sight unmatched throughout Yunnan.

Yet all of these delights pale in comparison to Cangshan’s most exciting feature; the clouds! The clouds above Cangshan are notoriously changeable, and can go from silky white to ink black in a matter of minutes. Several cloud formations, including the Yudai Cloud, which looks like a fairy holding a jade belt, and the Wangfu Cloud, which looks like a wife expectantly waiting for her husband, are so common that they have even been named.

According to local legend, the Wangfu Cloud is actually the spirit of Ah Feng, a princess of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom. She fell in love with a poor hunter named Ah Long, but when her father discovered the two together he had Ah Long killed and thrown into Erhai Lake. Ah Feng died of a broken heart and her soul floated up into the sky, where it waits patiently for her lover to return. So you see, there’s more to clouds than meets the eye. If you look hard enough, you may even see the spirit of that goldfish you once flushed down the toilet!

If you plan on hiking up the mountains, we recommend first heading from Dali Ancient Town to Zhonghe Temple. You can either take the cable car, which takes about half an hour, or hike on foot, which takes between 2 to 3 hours. Zhonghe Temple is the only place on the mountain range with a restaurant and stores where you can replenish your supplies, and also acts as a nexus for many of the hiking paths. If you fancy a steady hike, we recommend the Cloud Pass, which starts at the temple and is 20 kilometres long but is well-signposted, reasonably flat and has been paved. It leads to several streams, winds around many of the peaks, and even leads to three of the temples on the mountain, including Inaction Temple and Qingbi Temple.

The best time to visit Cangshan is late summer to early autumn, so that you avoid the rainy season but still benefit from the warm weather. However, the weather is extremely changeable on the mountains so we strongly recommend you carry warm clothes with you. Be sure to prepare enough food, water and other supplies, as the hike to the nearest store is a long one and the last thing you want is to end up nibbling on the grass!

Baisha Village

Baisha (白沙), or “white sand”, is named for the powdery white sand that decorates the surrounding countryside. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe Town both belong to, yet somehow has managed to avoid the crowds and tourist traps that plague its two historic cousins. It has become a favourite haunt for those travellers who want to engage in an authentic cultural experience without having to force their way through throngs of tourists or suffer the swarms of souvenir vendors! With its many temples, rich cultural heritage, stunning frescoes and zany homeopathic doctors, Baisha is one of the many must-see attractions in Lijiang County.

Baisha was the birthplace of the Mu clan, who were renowned for their skill and experience in city planning. They began expanding Baisha during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and by the Song Dynasty (960-1279) it had blossomed into a thriving town. It remained the political, commercial and cultural centre of the local Naxi people for over 400 years. The Mu clan ingeniously channelled water from the Jade River into a canal system within the village to provide locals with fresh water. This waterway system, coupled with the village’s beautifully preserved architecture, is what cemented its status as a World Heritage Site.

During the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the Mu clan were demoted by the Emperor to “Tusi” or chieftains, as oppose to rulers of the region. By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), they had moved their base of operations to Dayan Town (modern-day Lijiang Old Town) and Baisha became their religious centre. Like Dayan, Baisha played a focal role as a trade hub along the ancient Tea-Horse Road. The local Naxi women were known for their exquisite silk embroidery and this precious export allowed the town to prosper and grow. This Naxi tradition carried on until 1972, when it was banned during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). Many of the Naxi embroidery masters were imprisoned and tragically died in jail. The art was later revived and now thrives thanks to the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute.

Nowadays, the village serves as the ideal place to learn about Naxi culture and ancient Buddhist history. In the central district of the village, there are a group of temples known as “Mudu”. Many of them boast access to the stunning Baisha Frescoes, of which there are only 55 still in existence. While the frescoes are scattered throughout villages in Lijiang County, the vast majority of them can be found in Baisha. They are religious paintings reflecting famous stories from Buddhism, Tibetan Buddhism and Taoism. What makes these murals so unique is that they were painted by artists from the Han, Naxi, Tibetan and Bai ethnic minorities, meaning they are a mixture of ethnic styles. Imagine how much a painting by Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso would be worth, and you get the idea!

Dabaoji Palace was built by the Mu clan in 658 AD and houses 28 of these fresco groups, featuring over 100 religious figures from various tales. They date all the way back to the Ming Dynasty and are so delicate that the flash of a camera could potentially damage them, so it goes without saying that photographs are unfortunately off-limits. The remainder of Baisha’s frescoes can be found in Dading Pavilion. The pavilion itself was built in 1572 but most of its 16 mural paintings date back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

You won’t be able to take a memento of the frescoes with you but, if you want a beautiful souvenir, you need go no further than the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute! This institute was established with the aim of reviving, protecting and passing on the skill of Naxi handmade embroidery. Here Naxi embroidery masters are free to carry on this majestic art and pass their skills on to the next generation. Some Naxi embroidery masters will spend years working on a single project. One of the masters was even commissioned by Xi Jinping, the General Secretary of the Communist Party, to embroider a portrait of President Obama and his family, which was then presented as a gift. The students sell their work for around 250 yuan each (about £25) but work by the grand masters can go for thousands of pounds!

However, by far the most fascinating resident is Dr Ho. He’s currently 93 years old and has achieved international fame as a practitioner of ancient Chinese medicine. His clinic is plastered with newspaper articles about him, including pieces by the BBC and National Geographic. He’s fluent in English and will happily treat any ailment with his homemade herbal remedies or just talk to curious visitors about his work. His motto is “optimism is the best medicine” and, looking into his sagacious, smiling face, it’s hard to disagree!

If you fancy a longer stay, there are a handful of hotels in the village that vary in quality and price. Around the village, there are a plethora of cycling trails that provide access to temples, natural hotspots, and other charming villages. The streets are littered with stalls selling Tibetan craftworks, Naxi embroidery, and t-shirts hand-painted in either Tibetan script or the rare Dongba script[1]. Some of the best Naxi-style cuisine can be found in Baisha, as it is a paradise of restaurants and small eateries. You’ll even find a few Western-style restaurants and cafés dotted about its ancient streets. A rural paradise where you can still get a good cup of coffee; what more could you ask for?

[1] Dongba Script: The written language of the Naxi ethnic minority. It is the only known hieroglyphic writing system still in existence.

Yunnan

Yunnan literally means “south of the clouds” so, if you’re looking for a heaven on earth, Yunnan may be as close as it comes. Whether you fancy hiking up the misty mountains, relaxing in a backpacker’s paradise, studying China’s ethnic minorities, or marvelling at the majesty of ancient Chinese towns, a trip to Yunnan will be time well spent. From the mountainous regions of the north through to the canyons in the west and the plateaus in the east, Yunnan’s geographical, biological, and ethnical diversity are unmatched throughout China.

In a place bursting with as much variety as Yunnan, it’s unsurprising that its climate is changeable. One of the Eighteen Strange Wonders of Yunnan is that “the same dress can be worn for all four seasons”, as the weather is so unpredictable that you can sometimes wear the same outfit throughout the year and sometimes require four different outfits for just one day. So if you’re taking a trip to Yunnan, be sure to pack your winter coat, raincoat, sunglasses, and scarf! In the south of the province, temperatures in the summer months can regularly exceed 30°C although, on average, temperatures range from 21 to 27°C (70 to 81°F) in the summer and 8 to 17°C (46 to 63°F) in the winter. Since the province is mountainous, the weather can also change depending on how high up you are as the altitude between regions can vary by up to 3,000 metres (9,800 ft.)!

Thanks to this unusual climate, numerous plant and animal species thrive throughout Yunnan. It is home to over 17,000 species of plant and also to China’s only community of Asian Elephants. If you want to catch a glimpse of these shy giants or the rare Yunnan golden monkeys, you’ll have to hike through the canyons and scale the mountains of the province, as they won’t be found in any zoo! Living in harmony with this myriad of wildlife, Yunnan is officially home to 25 of the recognised 55 ethnic minorities in China, including the Hani, Dai, Lisu, Lahu, Va, Nakhi, and Blang people, and unofficially is said to have communities of over 51 different ethnic groups.

Over 38% of Yunnan’s population is made up of ethnic minorities and this makes it the second most ethnically diverse province in China. Many of the minorities in Yunnan have been allowed to practice their customs uninterrupted for hundreds of years, with the exception of Yi slaveholding and Wa headhunting of course! The Chinese government realised, unsurprisingly, that these practices might deter tourists and perhaps violate a few human rights, so abolished them. No matter where you are in Yunnan, you’ll never be too far from one of the many cultural festivals celebrated by these minorities. Imagine marvelling at the acrobatic majesty of the Lisu people during their Knife Pole Festival, taking in the crackling lights of the Yi people’s Torch Festival, or dousing your friends in buckets of water during the Dai people’s Water Splashing Festival!

Since it is the most southwestern province in China, Yunnan borders Guangxi and Guizhou in the east, Sichuan in the north, and the Tibet Autonomous Region in the northwest, but shares most of its border with Burma, Laos, and Vietnam. This makes it the perfect place to end or begin your travels in China, as it acts as a gateway between these Southeast Asian countries. But I know what you’re thinking; what does Yunnan have to offer you?

Well you could hike along the infamous Tiger Leaping Gorge, marvel at the alien shapes of the Stone Forest, or scale the heights of the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. If adventure holidays aren’t your thing, you could study the ancient buildings in Lijiang Old Town or Dali Ancient Town. And, if you fancy taking a walk on the wild side and experiencing a culture far removed from your own, you can always visit the Dai communities in Xishuangbanna, the Tibetan settlements of Xamgyi’nyilha (Shangri-La) County, or the Yi villages near Chuxiong. With all of these spectacular choices on offer, you could spend a whole day just deciding where you want to go!

Buddha jumps over the wall (Fotiaoqiang)

佛跳墙01

This is the most famous Fujian-style soup. The original recipe was created in 1876 by the main chef at the Juchunyuan restaurant. It is not a simple homemade soup; it is extravagant and complicated. Up to 30 ingredients are used in the making of this soup. Among them, most of the ingredients are unusual and rare, such as abalone (a type of sea snail), Shark’s fin and sea cucumber. Other ingredients are also highly prized for this soup, including pigeons’ eggs, squid, good quality ham, scallion, chicken, duck stomachs, fish stomachs, pork, and particular types of mushroom. In fact, every restaurant has its own unique recipe for this soup and purposefully keeps it a secret.

佛跳墙02This dish is so delicious that supposedly not even Buddha could resist the temptation and so jumped over the walls of the monastery to get it. Thus it is called “Buddha jumps over the wall” and, for the same reason, is sometimes called “Buddha’s temptation”.

Guizhou Local Snacks

The variety of flavours used in Guizhou cuisine means that, no matter what you fancy, there’ll be a local snack to satisfy your craving. Whilst the snacks in other provinces may strike us as far too large to simply be called snacks, the ones in Guizhou have been perfectly portioned to pack a big punch in a small package. The key to the potency of these snacks is in their liberal use of seasoning, which adds layers of flavour that one wouldn’t expect from such a small dish. We’ve included here just a few of the tastiest morsels that you might encounter on your travels in Guizhou.

stuffed Tolu BallBean Curd Balls or Stuffed Tofu Balls (豆腐圆子)

These crispy bean curd balls are a beloved local snack throughout Guizhou province. Tiny balls of tofu are rolled up and fried until they are golden brown on the outside and tender on the inside. Sometimes pork mince and green onions are chopped up and stuffed into the bean curd balls to add extra flavour. Traditionally bean curd balls are served with a sauce made from crushed chilli powder, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, pepper and chopped green onions.

Changwang Noodles (肠旺面)

changwang noodlesChangwang noodles are the breakfast of choice for most Guizhou locals. The noodles themselves are made from eggs, and are gently boiled in water before being scooped up and delicately ladled into a bowl of steaming chicken broth. The noodles are then garnished with cooked pork offal, blood curd[1], crispy diced pork, green onions and chilli oil. The crispy slices of pork, the soft blood curd and the aromatic soup all come together to make a dish that is frankly far too delicious to just have for breakfast.

Lovers Tofu (恋爱豆腐果)

lover TofuThe name “Lovers Tofu” was adopted during World War II. This snack was frequently used to stave off hunger when locals were waiting for the all-clear after an air raid siren sounded. Supposedly, since these moments also allowed local men and women to mingle freely and frequently resulted in the development of romantic partnerships, the tofu was aptly dubbed “Lovers Tofu”. The recipe for Lovers Tofu varies from vendor to vendor, but traditionally it consists of a square of tofu, about the size of your palm, that is gently grilled until it is golden brown on the outside but still soft on the inside. The vendor then slices open the centre of the square and fills it with finely chopped zhe ergen[2] and a sauce made from red chillies, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and ginger.

SiwawaSiwawa (丝娃娃)

The name Siwawa literally means “silk doll” in Chinese and is derived from the appearance of this snack, which supposedly looks like an infant swaddled in cloth. First you take a thin rice-flour pancake and liberally fill it with shreds of vegetables like seaweed, radishes, bean sprouts, cucumber, zhe ergen, and fried soybeans. Chilli paste is added last and the pancake is then rolled up. The vendor will usually add some sauce to the pancake to taste. This snack is an explosion of flavours, spicy and sour, crispy and wonderfully refreshing.

la rouLa Rou (贵州腊肉)

La Rou is a kind of bacon that originated from the Miao ethnic minority. The local Miao people allow their pigs to roam freely because they believe this will keep them fat and happy. They cure and smoke the bacon in their own homes, which gives the bacon its distinctively salty, succulent and smoky flavour.

 

[1] Blood curd: A gelatinous curd, like tofu, made from the blood of an animal, usually a pig. Its flavour resembles that of British black pudding, but its texture is much softer.

[2] Zhe ergen: An edible root that is usually found growing near rice fields. It’s said to have a fresh, peppery flavour and a satisfyingly woody crunch, although some people describe its flavour as medicinal and bitter.