Bai Ethnic Festivals

The Bai people celebrate a myriad of indigenous festivals, from the Folk Song Festival on Mount Shibao to the Rao San Ling Festival, but the three most important festivals are the Sanyue Festival, Torch Festival, and Benzhu Festivals.

The Sanyue Festival

bai sanyue festivalThe Sanyue or “March” Festival is the grandest in the Bai calendar and is held annually at the foot of Mount Cangshan near Dali from the 15th to the 20th day of the 3rd lunar month. Although it is called the March Festival, it actually falls sometime in April. Originally it began as a religious festival to pay homage to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. According to legend, Guanyin once rescued the residents of the Erhai region from certain death by defeating a band of man-eating Raksa demons. Thank goodness she got rid of all of them, or else Yunnan’s tourist trade would have definitely suffered!

From then on, the people held an annual Guanyin Market in her honour and this slowly became a fully-fledged festival. These occasions were particularly important in ancient China since they offered merchants from Tibet, Sichuan, Guangdong, and Hunan the chance to peddle their wares and buy goods that they rarely had access to. It is thought this type of market dates all the way back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907)! Over time the Sanyue Festival has evolved into a fair where sports competitions, dance performances, and the trading of goods have become the focal attraction. After all, we’re pretty sure the Goddess of Mercy wouldn’t mind people having a little fun!

The Torch Festival

bai torch festivalThe Torch Festival is celebrated by numerous ethnic minorities throughout southwest China, but is celebrated by the Bai people on the 25th day of the 6th lunar month, meaning it falls sometime in July. On the day of the festival, villagers light torches and carry them around the fields to drive away insects. They believe this will usher in a bumper harvest and bless the locals with good health and fortune. Doorways and village gates will be decorated with streamers bearing auspicious words that are also flanked by torches. The words must be particularly lucky, as miraculously these paper streamers never catch fire! In some villages, the locals will gather around large bonfires in nearby fields.

The origin of the Torch Festival is recounted in a Bai folk song known as “The Burning of the Torches in the Hall”. This song recounts how Piluoge, the founder and king of the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902), invited the leaders of the other five warring tribes to a sumptuous banquet in Songming Tower. When they arrived, he betrayed them and burned them all to death. Talk about a warm welcome! Many other ethnic groups in southwest China celebrate this festival to commemorate their ancient kings, who were murdered by Piluoge. However, nowadays the festival is barely connected to the original legend and has become a standardised way of worshipping for ample crops and prosperity in the coming year.

The Benzhu Festivals

bai benzhu festivalIn the villages around Dali, the Benzhu Festival takes place twice every year but the largest and most magnificent one comes directly after Spring Festival. On the morning of the festival, all of the villagers will don their festive clothes and gather in the Benzhu Temple. The benzhu shrines are taken from the temple, placed on a colourfully decorated sedan chair, and paraded through the village. The shrines must pass through every street of the village with people burning incense and chanting scriptures in their wake. Finally they are deposited in a specified location, where they will remain for a number of days.

During the festival, the villagers must follow the gods and worship the shrines in their new location by burning incense and offering them food and money. In some villages, a temporary temple is built around the shrines just for the purposes of the festival! Throughout the festival, families will host feasts and invite their friends and relatives to join them. Some communities will even have a public feast, which takes place in a large open space in the village.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Traditional Dress of Bai Minority

bai dress02

The Bai people’s unique style of traditional dress was established during the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902), which was a separate empire that ruled over Yunnan during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). The colour white signifies dignity and high social status to the Bai people and so they have a marked preference for white clothes, making laundry day nothing short of a nightmare! Generally speaking the men wear white shirts with white trousers, a white turban, and colourfully embroidered gaiters and belts, although nowadays most young men prefer to wear modern clothes and only don their traditional dress on special occasions.

The women have much more of a penchant for colour and, while the younger women predominantly wear white clothes, the older women mainly dress in blue and black. Young women will normally wear a white or powder-blue dress under a sleeveless pink, purple, red, blue or black jacket. Their clothes are embroidered with rich, colourful patterns, making laundry all the more difficult when it comes to separating the whites and darks! Under the dress they will wear a pair of loose fitting white trousers and embroidered shoes made of white cloth.

They embellish their outfits with a myriad of jewellery, including silver earrings, hairpins, necklaces, and jade bracelets. Elderly women wear far more muted attire and tend to opt for blue dresses and trousers covered by sleeveless black jackets and aprons. In Dali, many of the women wear a white coat trimmed with a black or purple collar that is complemented by loose fitting blue trousers and embroidered shoes. A bouncy ponytail secured at the tip by a red string usually indicates the woman is unmarried, while hair or braids clasped in a bun means you should take your amorous intentions elsewhere!

Most Bai women will wrap a sash around their waist, although the appearance of these waistcloths differs depending on age. Those worn by young girls are normally intricately embroidered and only reach down to their knees, while those worn by middle-aged women are purely blue or black in colour and are much longer. Their embroidery features many patterns and images, the most common of which is the camellia flower.

To the Bai people, the camellia is a symbol of beauty and their characteristic headscarves are designed to look like camellias in bloom. These headscarves are red with a white outer layer and are shaped like a crescent moon. The lower half or “tail” is embroidered with flowers and is meant to be draped over the shoulder so it sways in the wind. The unusual appearance of these headscarves has earned them the name “the flower in the wind and the moon on a snowy night”, although they could just as easily be called “the big hat on the head and the poor girl struggling underneath”!

Bai Architecture

The Bai people who inhabit villages surrounding Dali Ancient Town have become well-known for three characteristic styles of architecture, which are as beautiful as they are complex. These are known as “one house with two cottages”, “three rooms and one wall screening”, and “four houses and five courtyards”. The “one house with two cottages” design is the least popular and simply consists of a two-storey main room flanked by two smaller rooms.

The “three rooms and one wall screening” style is the most popular and is probably the most complicated. The house is made up of one main room and two long side rooms, which are arranged in a U shape. The front entrance is covered by a fourth wall, known as the “wall screening” or “shining wall”. This wall is designed to reflect light back into the main room at sunset and provide a little extra privacy.

bai architecture It is normally inscribed with a meaningful Chinese proverb, such as “fortune, longevity, and good health” (福寿安康), although in some instances there are only single characters, such as “happiness” (喜), and sometimes whole poems may be used! You can always tell if a mansion belonged to a specific clan because their slogan will cover the shining wall. For example, the Yang family wall reads “Generations of Righteousness”, while the Zhang family wall is inscribed with the words “A Tradition of Tolerance”. It’s the perfect way for your family to be remembered as courageous, wise, and open-minded, even if they were never necessarily any of those things!

Finally, the “four houses and five courtyards” style is made up of four long rooms that have been arranged in a square shape. In each of the square’s four corners there will be a courtyard and the space in the middle of the square makes up the fifth, largest courtyard. The walls of all these homes are made using slaked lime and are painted white, giving them their characteristically bright appearance.

The exteriors are beautifully decorated with hexagonal honeycomb patterns made up of white, black, and dark blue glazed tiles, proving that beehives are a source not only of honey but of architectural inspiration! The interiors are similarly bedecked with colourful paintings, marble ornaments, and elaborate stone inscriptions, making Bai homes some of the most stylish in China.

In a Bai home, even the doors are a work of art! The wooden gates are skilfully carved and the lattices of the main doors are engraved with lively patterns of legendary figures, birds, animals, and flowers. The upturned eaves, stunning woodcarvings, crisp white exterior, and interior decoration combine to give these homes a simple elegance.

The homes in the village of Xizhou are considered some of the most well-preserved and have remained largely changed since they were built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Many of the local mansions were founded by famous Bai clans and the Yan Family Compound has now been converted into a delightful museum.

Perhaps the most spectacular architectural achievement of the Bai people is the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. It was built sometime between 823 and 840 AD and has survived numerous natural and man-made disasters over a period of more than 1,000 years. Towering over Dali at over 70 metres (227 ft.) in height, the central pagoda is one of the tallest of its kind in China!

Bai’s Agriculture and Craftwork

Xizhou Bai ethnic

Most Bai villages are situated along the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and are crisscrossed by the Lancang, Nujiang, and Jinsha rivers. These river valleys, lush forests, and vast plains are not only beautiful but incredibly fertile, providing the Bai people with an abundance of crops and fruits. The mild climate and rich soil, particularly around the area near Lake Erhai, means they yield crops twice a year, making life for the Bai like an all-you-can-eat buffet! They mainly farm a mixture of staple foods and cash crops such as rice, wheat, beans, cotton, sugarcane, and tobacco.

Mount Cangshan, which rises up mistily near the expanse of Lake Erhai, also contains rich deposits of the famous Dali marble, which is treasured both as a building and crafting material. Its pure white exterior, with beautiful red, pale blue, green, and milky yellow veins running through it, is what makes it so unique and peerless compared to other types of marble. The Bai, being astute businesspeople, have long since made the most of these valuable resources!

bai agricultureBeing an agriculture society, the Bai’s culture still revolves around local markets known as jie. Many Bai villages are self-sufficient, since they grow most of their own food, so these bazaars are designed to provide them with products that they don’t regularly purchase, such as farming equipment or items used for weddings, funerals, and other special occasions. In the Erhai region there is a bazaar every day in a different location so, if you want to see the hustle and bustle of a traditional market, just take a long walk along the lake’s shore!

Bai cuisine is characterised by the use of sharp, cold, and spicy flavours, occasionally using a sour tang to complement a dish. From ham and sausage to smoked pig liver and intestines, pork is central to their diet and their love of it is palpable in every Bai dish. Those who live near a lake or river will also have a lot of fish in their diet and they are renowned for their skill at cooking fish in a variety of ways. Bai women are known for their skill at making delicious sauces, such as bean sauce, lobster sauce, and flour sauce. You could almost say their women are a little saucy!

Like many people in China, the Bai are great tea lovers and will drink tea twice a day, every day. Morning tea, also known as “awakening tea”, is drunk as soon as they wake up. In the afternoon they will enjoy what is known as “relaxing tea” or “thirst quenching tea”, which some people will add milk or popcorn to depending on preference. They have become famous for a custom known as the Three Courses of Tea ceremony, where three types of tea are served in succession to symbolise the course of life.

Bai women in Yunnan are incredibly skilled at batik but, unlike many ethnic minorities, they have continued to use the bandhnu method. This method involves tying, twisting, knotting, pinching, or even stitching the material into the desired patterns, which are usually floral. The material is then dipped into a vat full of indigo dye and left for a certain amount of time. The binding process hinders the dye from reaching parts of the fabric and, if the binding is tight enough, may prevent it entirely.

Bai batik01Once the material has been allowed to dry, it is released and, while the unbound parts of the material have been dyed a deep blue, the bound parts reveal a pattern as they have remained their original white. This tying and dying process can be repeated several times to create more complex designs. The patterns achieved are more natural than the other styles of batik but less exact, and the natural dye is gentler on the skin and less likely to fade. They are also accomplished at lacquer work and have been renowned for their lacquer wares since the Yuan (1271-1368) and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties.

Bai Ethnic Marriage Customs

bai Marriage Customs

In the past, arranged marriages were commonplace among the Bai people but fortunately nowadays Bai youths have the freedom to choose who they want to marry. That being said, the customs and procedures of their wedding ceremony are still largely adhered to, so they haven’t entirely escaped tradition. Once a young man and woman have announced their engagement, the groom will hire workers to begin building a stage in his home, because apparently weddings aren’t expensive enough without turning your house into a theatre!

In a display worthy of a British stag-do, the groom arranges for local singers and actors to perform on this stage on the eve of the wedding and invites his relatives and friends to celebrate his last night as a single man. Providing the wedding stage doesn’t get completely trashed, on the wedding day itself the groom will get up early and prepare a banquet for the guests. This sumptuous feast is punctuated by live music, which is a shame because the bride isn’t there to see it! At this point, in some areas the groom will travel to the bride’s home accompanied by his best man and a bridesmaid, while in other areas he is forbidden to see the bride before the wedding so sends his entourage in his place.

On arrival at the bride’s house, the welcoming party is received with the playing of lively music. This is where one of the strangest customs comes in, as the party are greeted by the bride’s elder relatives with series of odd questions, such as “where are you from?” and “what did you see on the way here?” Their responses must be quick and humorous, or else they will be playfully mocked by the bride’s family. As if getting married wasn’t stressful enough! The bride’s family then hosts the famous Bai tea ceremony known as San Dao Cha or Three Courses of Tea. Four to six men from the bride’s family will make toasts to the groom and his entourage, followed by the groom making toasts to the bride’s family.

According to custom rather than feeling, the bride then has to cry intentionally and sorrowfully in front of her family. As she cries, she should express her gratitude to her parents for having raised her. The bride will then leave her family home and go to the groom’s house, accompanied by more joyous music. That is, if all the mocking and fake crying hasn’t given them cold feet! Once the bride has arrived, she is taken to have her make-up done. While this takes place, children at the wedding are given fire torches and are free to play until the wedding ceremony begins. After all, what could be more fun than giving a bunch of children flaming torches?

When the bride is ready, the children accompany her into the bridal room, which will have been decorated with auspicious symbols. Horse saddles imply diligence, a mirror symbolises bravery, and three arrows indicate happiness. The bride then pays respect to the gods and the groom’s parents. The couple must then rush to compete for a space on a large pillow in the bridal room. It is said that whoever sits on this pillow first will be master of the house, although this is commonly regarded as a joke.

bai Marriage Customs 02The couple then eats a bowl of incredibly spicy noodles together, which leaves them tearful and is designed primarily to make the guests laugh! From mockery to forced crying to burnt tongues, Bai weddings seem to be pretty sadistic affairs! Finally the couple will cross their arms together and drink wine, which symbolises that they will respect and love each other forever.

In the evening, an intimate dinner will take place between the bride, the bridesmaid, and the elderly women from the groom’s family. After the meal, the bride pays respect to the groom’s elder relatives and gives each of them a pair of embroidered shoes that she has made. In turn, they reward her with monetary gifts. The bride’s younger relatives and neighbouring children will then gather and pay respect to her, and are rewarded with candies and fruit.

Benzhuism of Bai Ethnic Minority

bai ethnic benzu02

The Bai people believe in a mixture of Buddhism, Confucianism, and an indigenous religion known as Benzhuism. In fact, their religious beliefs are so diverse that it is not unusual to find a Buddhist, Taoist, Confucian, and Benzhu temple within a single Bai village. After all, when it comes to the afterlife, you’ve got to have your bases covered! They adopted Buddhism sometime during the 7th century and Guanyin, the Buddhist deity of mercy, features prominently in some of their oldest myths.

However, by far the most fascinating are the beliefs surrounding their native religion of Benzhuism. This religion revolves around the worship of what they call ngel zex and what the Chinese call benzhu (本主), which roughly translates to mean “local lord” or “local ancestor”. Though its popularity has waned throughout the years, it has recently made a comeback and, according to a census done in 1990, there were approximately 986 Benzhu shrines in Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture alone!

The Bai are polytheistic and their beliefs incorporate aspects of animism[1] and traditional Chinese religion. In fact, they worship pretty much anything, including natural objects, such as stones and trees; ancient deities, such as the God of the Mountain and the God of the Sun; historical heroes from various ethnic groups; legendary characters from folklore; and kings, princes, generals or ministers of the Nanzhao (738-902) and Dali (937-1253) Kingdoms. However, all of these deities act as subsidiaries to the local lord or benzhu.

Generally speaking each village will have its own benzhu, which is the main subject of worship for the villagers, although several villages will sometimes share the same benzhu. Other gods, such as the Dragon King who controls rainfall, the Mother God who distributes children to parents, and the God of Fortune who allocates wealth, all continue to function but are subordinate to the benzhu.

bai ethnic benzu01The villagers believe that the benzhu protects their village and passes on their wishes to the heavens, effectively acting as an intermediary between heaven and earth. These gods are always historical heroes, warriors, sages, leaders, or ancestors that have some sort of link to the village they protect and have been deified. For example, according to legend, the royal Duan family came from Qingdong village near Xizhou and thus their local benzhu is Duan Siping, the founder of the Dali Kingdom.

The mythology surrounding each benzhu is wonderfully rich, as every one of them will have a magnificent story to justify their position as a god. They have considerable power and are able to protect crops and livestock, dispel illness, and bring prosperity to the villagers. Whenever a member of the community is born, is sick, dies, or gets married, the villagers will perform certain ceremonies at the Benzhu Temple.

Some scholars believe that Benzhuism was the Bai people’s way of reinforcing their entitlement to certain territories. By worshipping a historical figure who first settled the area or who saved it during some kind of catastrophe, they emphasised their right as the historical figure’s descendants to inhabit that area.

The Nama branch of Bai people, who live near the Lancang River, have preserved the cult of the white stones, which they are believed to have inherited from the ancient Qiang people. However, the origins of these beliefs aren’t entirely clear. Some believe these stones are the sacred bones of their ancestors, while others think they are demons’ bones that are too dangerous to be moved, and still others feel they are symbolic of the Fire God, a deity worshipped throughout China.

bai NamaThey also believe in the cult of the celestial ox, which is a godlike animal that has the power to protect the village, prevent disasters, and benefit the growth of crops and livestock. They believe that this ox, like the benzhu, can act as an intermediary between gods and men. The Nama perform a ritual sacrifice during the 6th lunar month of each year whereby they transform a regular ox into a celestial one, “help” the ox reach the heavens by sacrificing it and beseech it to present their entreaties to the gods. That being said, I can’t imagine the ox is too keen to help them after they’ve just killed it!

Sometime during the 18th century, Benzhuism was introduced to the Nama and intermingled with their religious beliefs, which is evidenced by the images of the celestial ox that can still be found in their Benzhu Temples. The term “nama” means “tiger” in their language, as the Nama people believe that they are descended from tigers and so worship the Mother Tigress as their ancestral benzhu.

 

[1] Animism: The belief that all non-human entities, including animals, plants, and even inanimate objects, possess a spiritual essence or soul.

Bai Ethnic Minority

Bai Ethnic Minority

The Bai people hold the colour white in high esteem and the term “Baizu” (白族) actually translates to mean “white people”. That being said, the Bai aren’t racist! They just have a preference for white clothes. The majority of their nearly 2-million-strong population can be found in Yunnan province, with smaller constituencies in Guizhou, Sichuan, and Hunan. They can be further separated into three ethnic subgroups; the Minjia, who represent 95% of the total population; the Nama, who account for just 3.5%; and the Lemo, who make up the last 1.5%. While the Minjia people predominantly live in the region near Erhai Lake, the Nama people can be found near the Lancang River, and the Lemo people inhabit areas near the Nujiang River.

The complexity of their culture is matched only by that of their history! Archaeologists have found evidence in the Erhai region that suggests it was inhabited as early as the Neolithic Era (c. 10,200-2,000 BC). Their findings indicate that these ancient people had already invented stone tools and engaged in farming, livestock rearing, fishing, and hunting. Other evidence, such as bronze knives and swords, imply that they began using metal tools approximately 2,000 years ago. Yet no one, not even the Bai people themselves, is absolutely sure whether these early settlers are their ancestors!

During the Qin (221-206 BC) and Han (206 BC–220 AD) dynasties, it is believed that locals in the Erhai area developed close ties with the Han ethnic group. In 109 BC, the imperial government sent large numbers of Han people there, who brought with them advanced techniques and tools. The Bai language, which borrows many words from Chinese, also supports the theory that they interacted with the Han people from an early stage. However, it wasn’t until the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that the Bai’s history began to be formally documented. Supported by the Tang Court, a group of Bai and Yi aristocrats unified the ethnic groups in the Erhai area and established the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902), which was ruled by a man known as Piluoge.

Bai Ethnic Minority02Throughout its reign this kingdom was the most powerful political entity in southern China and successfully established alliances with both the Chinese and Tibetans. It was not only an important trade centre, linking China to commercial routes in Southeast Asia, but was also a religious centre where Buddhism flourished. At one point, this burgeoning empire was so large that it controlled parts of Vietnam, Burma, and Laos! However it oppressed many of the local ethnic groups, plundered their resources, and forced numerous people into slavery. The kingdom was overthrown with such violence that it took 35 years of chaos and revolt before the region finally recovered and Duan Siping was able to establish the Dali Kingdom (937-1253).

This kingdom was predominantly made up of Bai people and retained many of the political, cultural, and religious characteristics of its predecessor, but abolished exorbitant taxes and treated its citizens far more fairly. Since it was a valued commercial partner of the Song Dynasty (960-1279), its people enjoyed a period of peace and productivity. Unfortunately this tranquillity was not to last, as the Mongols annexed the Dali Kingdom during their eventual establishment of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and demoted the Duan royal family from leaders to Tusi[1]. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Duan were removed and replaced with imperial officials.

This is where their history begins to get rather hazy, as it seems many Bai people decided to take matters into their own hands! In Bai culture, they have a complex clan system that has depended upon the use and systemisation of surnames since the Nanzhao Kingdom. This means that most clans will have a family temple where they keep extensive lineage records detailing their ancestors’ histories and accomplishments. Before the 13th century, most of these family records would place emphasis on the fact that their ancestors were officials for the Nanzhao or Dali Kingdoms.

However, during the Ming Dynasty many of these records were changed to “prove” that their ancestors had originated from Nanjing and were related to the Han ethnic group. Many scholars believe that this was designed to curry favour with the ruling Han imperials and help Bai aristocrats gain official positions. The Bai people thus foster a belief in dual ancestral origins; on the one hand, they believe that their forefathers were high-ranking officials in the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms; on the other hand, they allege that their ancestors were Han people who came from Nanjing as part of the Ming army. In short, don’t ask a Bai person about their family history unless you have a lot of time on your hands!

Historically the Bai are an industrious and well-educated people, having made great advances in meteorology, astronomy, architecture, medical science, literature, and art. Perhaps their most famous achievements are the magnificent Three Pagodas, which stand just outside Dali Ancient Town.

Like many ethnic minorities, the Bai people have great reverence for their elders. Traditionally youths should greet elders warmly and offer them their seat, a cup of tea, and a cigarette. It’s considered incredibly disrespectful to cross your legs or use foul language in front of an elderly person. In a Bai household, the first cup of morning tea is always offered to the oldest relative and during meals they will always sit at the head of the table and start eating first.

Many of these elders will be heads of their family temple. The Bai predominantly follow a surname-based clan system and so family temples are very common, particularly in the Erhai region. In Xizhou alone, there are temples belonging to the Yang, Yin, Dong, Zhang, and Yue families. When an elderly member of the family is appointed as head of the temple, they have the power to resolve disputes and make important decisions within the family. It is their responsibility to discipline and educate younger relatives, as well as oversee affairs such as the buying and selling of land.

The Bai people are also extremely superstitious and adhere to a number of taboos. Fireplaces are considered sacred and so it is forbidden to spit on or step over them; people who are mourning a death are not allowed to enter the homes of others; on New Year’s Eve, people should return anything they have borrowed and retrieve any items they have lent out, otherwise they will have bad luck and a poor harvest in the coming year; and on New Year’s Day, people must not use a knife, carry water into their home, or sweep the floor.

[1] Tusi: Chieftains or tribal leaders who were permitted to rule over a certain region and were acknowledged as imperial officials but who ultimately answered to the Emperor.

Read more about Bai Ethnic Minority:

Bai Spirituality       Architecture       Traditional Dress       Festivals       Marriage Customs       Agriculture and Craftwork       Three Courses of Tea

Huangluo Red Yao Village

Huangluo Red Yao Village is part of the Longji Rice Terraces Scenic Area but amazingly this is not its focal attraction. Huangluo is located just 1 kilometre south of Ping’an village and over 87 kilometres (54 miles) from Guilin city. It is famous throughout China not for its magnificent rice terraces, but for its locals. Huangluo is home to the Red Yao people, a branch of the Yao ethnic minority that are so-called for the vibrant red jackets and shirts that the women wear on festival occasions. The village itself is relatively ordinary, with a population of just over 400 people living in 60 households throughout the village. However, what makes this village so extraordinary is a strange habit kept up by the local Yao women, which has earned Huangluo the title of “World’s First Long Hair Village”.

The village holds the Guinness World Record for the largest group of people with the longest hair. Over 60 girls in the village have silken black hair over one metre in length, and a handful of them have hair over 2 metres long. Their hair is not only incredibly long, it is in exceedingly good condition and this is all thanks to a beauty regime that the Yao women have practised for years. Normally they will wash their hair in the river every day but every third or fourth day they will wash their hair using a special “shampoo”. This “shampoo” is made by first fermenting water that has been used to wash rice. This water is fermented for at least a week until it starts to smell a little sour. The rice water is then boiled and pomelo skins are added to the mixture. Finally, the residue left over from crushing tea plant seeds into tea oil is added and the “shampoo” is complete. The women first run the shampoo through their hair, and then comb it whilst rinsing the shampoo out with fresh local spring water.

The Yao women grow their hair like this because they believe that long hair symbolises longevity so the longer your hair is, the longer your life is likely to be. Yao women only cut their hair once in their lifetime and this is when they turn eighteen years old. The cutting of the hair is a rite of passage, implying that the girl is now an adult and ready for marriage. The cut hair will be kept and styled into an ornamental headpiece, which is then reincorporated back into the woman’s hair when she is married. The Yao women are in fact characterised by this hairstyle, which consists of three bunches of hair. The first bunch of hair is her natural hair, the second is the hair from her first haircut, and the third is made from strands of hair that fall out during combing and are kept over time. All of this hair will be held in place using just a single comb.

The hair of a Yao woman is also a useful indication of her social status. If a woman’s hair is covered, this is an indication that she is unmarried. Traditionally, no man was allowed to see a woman’s hair until her wedding day, when her groom would be treated to an unveiling of her beautiful hair for the first time. If any man saw her hair before her wedding day, regardless of whether they were a villager or an outsider, they would have to stay with her parents for three years as if they were their son-in-law. If the woman’s hair is simply wrapped around her head, this indicates that she is married but as yet has no children. Finally, a small bun at the front of the head indicates that the woman is married with children.

Once you’re in Huangluo, you can enjoy performances of the women showing off their long, luxurious hair. These performances also incorporate singing and dancing, a favourite pastime of the Yao people. They sing sweet folk songs about the mountains, the terraces, the history of the Yao people, and many other themes close to their heart. The Yao people are incredibly friendly and hospitable, so don’t be too surprised if a local invites you into their home for a drink or simply to admire their rustic way of life. Unfortunately Huangluo is one of the few villages in the area that has been heavily developed for tourism, thanks to the unique appearance of the Red Yao women, so it can be quite crowded. If you want to get a taste of Yao culture without having to endure the crowds, we recommend visiting the villages of Dazhai and Tiantou in the Jinkeng Terraced Fields Area.

There are currently no official hotels or hostels in Huangluo. If you want to stay in the area overnight, we recommend staying at one of the hotels in Ping’an or Dazhai and traveling from there to Huangluo. To get to Huangluo, you first need to take an express bus from Guilin to Longsheng County Town or Heping Town, which takes about 2 hours. From Longsheng or Heping, you can take another bus that goes directly to Huangluo and takes just over an hour. Alternatively, you can take the bus from Longsheng to Ping’an and then hike from Ping’an to Huangluo, which only takes about 15 minutes.

Baisha Village

Baisha (白沙), or “white sand”, is named for the powdery white sand that decorates the surrounding countryside. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site that Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe Town both belong to, yet somehow has managed to avoid the crowds and tourist traps that plague its two historic cousins. It has become a favourite haunt for those travellers who want to engage in an authentic cultural experience without having to force their way through throngs of tourists or suffer the swarms of souvenir vendors! With its many temples, rich cultural heritage, stunning frescoes and zany homeopathic doctors, Baisha is one of the many must-see attractions in Lijiang County.

Baisha was the birthplace of the Mu clan, who were renowned for their skill and experience in city planning. They began expanding Baisha during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and by the Song Dynasty (960-1279) it had blossomed into a thriving town. It remained the political, commercial and cultural centre of the local Naxi people for over 400 years. The Mu clan ingeniously channelled water from the Jade River into a canal system within the village to provide locals with fresh water. This waterway system, coupled with the village’s beautifully preserved architecture, is what cemented its status as a World Heritage Site.

During the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the Mu clan were demoted by the Emperor to “Tusi” or chieftains, as oppose to rulers of the region. By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), they had moved their base of operations to Dayan Town (modern-day Lijiang Old Town) and Baisha became their religious centre. Like Dayan, Baisha played a focal role as a trade hub along the ancient Tea-Horse Road. The local Naxi women were known for their exquisite silk embroidery and this precious export allowed the town to prosper and grow. This Naxi tradition carried on until 1972, when it was banned during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). Many of the Naxi embroidery masters were imprisoned and tragically died in jail. The art was later revived and now thrives thanks to the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute.

Nowadays, the village serves as the ideal place to learn about Naxi culture and ancient Buddhist history. In the central district of the village, there are a group of temples known as “Mudu”. Many of them boast access to the stunning Baisha Frescoes, of which there are only 55 still in existence. While the frescoes are scattered throughout villages in Lijiang County, the vast majority of them can be found in Baisha. They are religious paintings reflecting famous stories from Buddhism, Tibetan Buddhism and Taoism. What makes these murals so unique is that they were painted by artists from the Han, Naxi, Tibetan and Bai ethnic minorities, meaning they are a mixture of ethnic styles. Imagine how much a painting by Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso would be worth, and you get the idea!

Dabaoji Palace was built by the Mu clan in 658 AD and houses 28 of these fresco groups, featuring over 100 religious figures from various tales. They date all the way back to the Ming Dynasty and are so delicate that the flash of a camera could potentially damage them, so it goes without saying that photographs are unfortunately off-limits. The remainder of Baisha’s frescoes can be found in Dading Pavilion. The pavilion itself was built in 1572 but most of its 16 mural paintings date back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

You won’t be able to take a memento of the frescoes with you but, if you want a beautiful souvenir, you need go no further than the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute! This institute was established with the aim of reviving, protecting and passing on the skill of Naxi handmade embroidery. Here Naxi embroidery masters are free to carry on this majestic art and pass their skills on to the next generation. Some Naxi embroidery masters will spend years working on a single project. One of the masters was even commissioned by Xi Jinping, the General Secretary of the Communist Party, to embroider a portrait of President Obama and his family, which was then presented as a gift. The students sell their work for around 250 yuan each (about £25) but work by the grand masters can go for thousands of pounds!

However, by far the most fascinating resident is Dr Ho. He’s currently 93 years old and has achieved international fame as a practitioner of ancient Chinese medicine. His clinic is plastered with newspaper articles about him, including pieces by the BBC and National Geographic. He’s fluent in English and will happily treat any ailment with his homemade herbal remedies or just talk to curious visitors about his work. His motto is “optimism is the best medicine” and, looking into his sagacious, smiling face, it’s hard to disagree!

If you fancy a longer stay, there are a handful of hotels in the village that vary in quality and price. Around the village, there are a plethora of cycling trails that provide access to temples, natural hotspots, and other charming villages. The streets are littered with stalls selling Tibetan craftworks, Naxi embroidery, and t-shirts hand-painted in either Tibetan script or the rare Dongba script[1]. Some of the best Naxi-style cuisine can be found in Baisha, as it is a paradise of restaurants and small eateries. You’ll even find a few Western-style restaurants and cafés dotted about its ancient streets. A rural paradise where you can still get a good cup of coffee; what more could you ask for?

[1] Dongba Script: The written language of the Naxi ethnic minority. It is the only known hieroglyphic writing system still in existence.

Dong Oil Tea

dong oil tea 01

Oil tea is the traditional drink of the Dong ethnic minority. In Chinese it is referred to as yaucha or youcha (油茶), which literally means “oil tea”. It is consumed on a daily basis by Dong people, usually as part of their breakfast, but also plays a focal role in festivals and ceremonies, particularly the guest welcoming ceremony. It is perhaps better described as a “tea soup”, since it is thicker than normal tea and contains solid ingredients, such as peanuts. Oil tea comes in many different varieties, including lima-bean tea, red pea tea and white pea tea, although the basic components of the tea remain relatively unchanged.

Firstly, tea seeds are pressed to make what is called tea oil. Although these tea seeds are harvested from tea trees, they do not come from the same species of tea tree as the tea leaves used in the oil tea. Sticky or glutinous rice is cooked so that it is lovely and soft, and then dried out in the sun. After it has dried completely, it is fried in the tea oil until the rice grains puff up like popcorn. Additional ingredients, such as peanuts and soybeans, are then stir-fried. Finally, black or green tea leaves are quickly fried in the hot tea oil until they are crisp. The puffed rice, tea leaves and additional ingredients are added to individual bowls. Before the hot water is poured into the bowl, the host will normally add some extra ingredients to enhance the flavour of the tea, such as pork offal, chopped pork liver, green onions, chopped garlic leaves and salt.

dong oil tea 02The ritual surrounding the oil tea is particularly fascinating. Each guest will be presented with a bowl full of the aforementioned ingredients and one chopstick. It is said that Dong women can eat any snack using just one chopstick without piercing the food itself. In this instance, the chopstick is there primarily to indicate when you are done drinking the tea and not as a tool for drinking it. Hot water is then poured into the bowls and the tea is left to steep. Only women will serve the tea and the first bowl is always served to the oldest member of the family or the guest, following thereafter from oldest to youngest. However, out of politeness you should not start drinking the tea until everyone has been served and the hostess indicates you may begin drinking by saying “please”. As a sign of respect, every guest should drink at least three bowls of tea. The first three to four bowls of tea are usually salty, followed by a sweet tea. Once you have drank your fill, you must place the chopstick across your bowl to indicate that you are finished, otherwise the hostess will continue filling your bowl until you are ready to burst!

Oil tea is traditionally served with an array of snacks, including batter-fried fish, pickled vegetables, nuts, and fried corn. One could even say that the oil tea ceremony in Dong culture is like a Chinese version of afternoon tea in England! If you happen to be traveling through a Dong village, some friendly villager will undoubtedly invite you in for a bowl of oil tea. Although it is vastly different from the black tea that we are accustomed to, it is none-the-less healthy, tantalisingly aromatic and unexpectedly delicious. Once you catch the scent of the crispy tea leaves and the steaming bowls of rich, oily tea, we’re sure you’ll want to have a bowl!