Guizhou | China & Asia Cultural Travel

Miao Marriage Customs

On top of social bonding, Miao customs become particularly complex and significant during courtship. Nowadays Miao men and women are free to mingle and premarital sex is tolerated within the community. Men and women can select their own husbands and wives, although certain customs are still adhered to. During the Miao New Year, groups of girls and boys from different villages will pass a ball to one another as part of the festivities. This act is designed to introduce them to one another from an early age and help deepen their affections for one another.

By the time they are older, they will take part in a courtship ritual that is made up of two main stages. The first stage, known as the “walking around” stage or sometimes the “visiting villages”, “meeting girls” or “stepping the moon” stage, is when men from surrounding villages will travel to one village to meet the women. This usually takes place during major festivals and will be held on a designated site near the village. The second stage takes place directly after the first and it is when the men sing antiphonal love songs to the women.

Although they are not as well-known for their singing as the Dong ethnic minority, the Miao people are very fond of singing and dancing. Their songs do not rhyme, are easy to understand and can vary in length from a few lines to more than 15,000. Through this antiphonal singing, women and men can get to know each other’s backgrounds better. Once a man likes and a woman and it is established that she returns his affections, they will secrete themselves from the designated site and sing or talk privately. After they have gotten to know each other over a period of time, they will exchange love tokens called “diubabin” and decide to get married. When a man and woman fall in love, people in the village will all prepare and eat glutinous rice cakes. These glutinous rice cakes are also given out during the Sister’s Meal Festival, a Miao festival similar to that of Valentine’s Day, and are regularly exchanged between boys and girls as a token of affection.

During weddings, special glutinous rice cakes with patterns of a dragon and a phoenix will be eaten and established couples will drink from what is called the “nuptial cup”. This is where partners pour the liquor into each other’s mouth or link arms and then drink from their own cup. Toasts like these are usually proposed by women. Normally the first toast is made to the host, followed by toasts to the guests. In some cases, the first toast is made to the eldest person attending the feast. Traditionally two cups of horn spirit must be drunk as part of a toast. The Miao believe this is a fitting number, as people walk with two feet so they can drink two cups of horn spirit.

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Maotai Liquor

Maotai liquor is the drink of choice for Chinese politicians, celebrities and wealthy businessmen alike. It supposedly ranks as one of the three most well-known spirits in the world, together with whisky and cognac. Yet outside of China, few people know much about it and even fewer have sampled it. So what exactly is Maotai liquor? And how does it rank among more familiar spirits from other countries?

Maotai, also known by the brand’s original Romanization of Moutai, is a type of baijiu that is distilled from sorghum. Baijiu, which literally means “white alcohol” or “white liquor” in Chinese, is a clear, strong liquor that is usually distilled from sorghum. In the South of China it is sometimes made from glutinous rice and in the North it can be made from wheat, barley or millet. Different brands of baijiu vary from 40% to 60% alcohol by volume, although Maotai ranges from the standard 53% through to 35% proof. Baijiu is similar to vodka in terms of its texture, strength and appearance, but is said to have a sweeter taste. Maotai is often described as a “sauce-scented” or “sauce-fragranced” liquor because it carries the faint aroma of soy sauce, which makes it unique amongst other brands of baijiu.

Maotai is produced exclusively in the town of Maotai, near the city of Renhuai in southwest Guizhou. It is believed that the climate and locally grown sorghum in the town is what gives the liquor its distinctive flavour. Attempts have been made to produce Maotai elsewhere but nowhere else has managed to replicate its unique taste. Apparently the process of making the liquor creates such a pungent odour that the entire town of Maotai is said to smell like fermenting sorghum. The town began manufacturing the liquor on a large scale during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It was the first liquor in China to be mass-produced and during the Qing Dynasty it had an annual output of about 170 tonnes. In 1951, two years after the People’s Republic of China was founded, it was named China’s national liquor. By the 21^st century, it had become so popular that more than 6,800 tonnes of Maotai was sold in 2007 alone.

Its first international acknowledgement came during the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco, where it won a gold medal. At the 1985 and 1986 Paris International Exposition, it won two consecutive gold medals. Since the Cultural Revolution, it has won 14 international awards and 20 domestic awards.

Due to its popularity and international recognition, it is frequently used on official occasions in China, particularly when foreign politicians or distinguished foreign guests visit China. It is the only alcoholic beverage that is deemed worthy to be presented as an official gift to foreign countries by Chinese embassies. It received the greatest exposure during the state banquet that was held for U.S. president Richard Nixon in 1972. At this banquet, the Chinese politician Zhou Enlai offered the liquor to Nixon and, ignoring the advice of his associates, Nixon engaged in toast with Zhou and drank the liquor. Although it is not so widely available outside of China, currently about 200 tonnes of Maotai is sold annually to over 100 countries across the world and its international popularity is slowly growing.

With all of these accolades and international publicity, it’s surprising that the Maotai brand is still relatively unknown outside of China. This is in part due to the fact that Maotai, and baijiu in general, is considered almost universally unpalatable to foreigners. It’s a real love or hate type of drink, with some people relishing it as a deliciously sweet and spicy alternative to vodka and others, like American journalist Dan Rather, describing it as being like “liquid razor blades”. The only way to truly know whether it’s for you or not is to take a trip to Maotai and give it a try!

Guizhou Cuisine

In Guizhou, the local saying goes: “without eating a sour dish for three days, people will stagger with weak legs”. Guizhou cuisine is simply so delectable that the locals believe they can’t go a day without having one of their signature spicy, sour dishes. Guizhou cuisine is similar to that of its neighbouring provinces, Sichuan and Hunan, in that it employs predominantly spicy, peppery and sour flavours. However, the sourness of Guizhou cuisine is different to that of Hunan’s and it is not as potently spicy as Sichuan cuisine. Signature dishes in Guizhou are designed to match the saucy tang of the local liquors, such as Maotai liquor, as the two will often be consumed together.

This style of cuisine is renowned for its use of pickled, salty vegetables called yancai. Many different vegetables can be used to make yancai. These vegetables are dried when they are fresh, without any exposure to the sunlight. After they are dried, they are placed in containers, salted, sealed and then left to ferment for four to five days before they are ready to be consumed. These pickled foods are not only delectable, but are said to have medicinal properties. Guizhou cuisine is also characterised by its liberal use of dried red chillies and salty powered chilli dips. Although Guizhou cuisine differs from region to region, and sometimes from city to city, we’ve include an array of signature dishes from Guizhou that are sure to get your mouth watering.

Guizhou Hotpot (贵州火锅)

Like other styles of hotpot, Guizhou Hotpot offers an array of different styles depending on location, including Kaili Fish Hot Pot with Sour Soup and Guiyang Green Pepper Young Chicken Hot Pot. These hotpots are typically peppery, sour and full of dried red chillies to give that distinctive spiciness. The base soup of Guizhou Hotpot is famous throughout China for its unique flavour and tantalising smell. The soup is boiled at the table and then you add raw ingredients, such as strips of beef or tofu, depending on your preference. All of the food is cooked at the table and the soup itself can be topped up throughout the meal. We recommend that, before you start cooking, you get a bowl of spices to dip the food in once it is cooked.

Sour Soup Fish (酸汤鱼)

Thanks to Guizhou’s ethnic diversity, it is one of the few provinces in China where cuisine from ethnic minorities can be enjoyed. Sour Soup Fish is a perfect example, as it is a staple dish in Miao culture that originates from Kaili. The soup broth is made of pickled cabbage and pickled chillies to give it a hot sour tang, along with ginger, wild tomatoes, shallots, pepper and a few other vegetables. The liberal use of an unusual Chinese spice known as huajiao, which is made from the berries of the Chinese prickly ash tree, gives the broth a unique flavour that would be unfamiliar to a non-Chinese palate. After the broth is bubbling and the aroma of the soup fills the air, the sweet, clear white flesh of the river fish is added. The river fish used in this dish is always locally sourced and tastes incredibly fresh. You must be careful when eating the fish, as there are many tiny bones in the meat.

Crackling Fish with Zao Pepper (糟辣椒脆皮鱼)

Zao pepper is a spice made up of fermented chilli paste that is unique not only to China but specifically to Guizhou province. The dish is made by breading a fresh carp in a mixture made from flour, eggs and salt. The fish is then fried so that it is mouth-wateringly crispy on the outside but fluffy and moist on the inside. After the fish is fried, ginger, zao pepper and water are added to the pan to make the sauce.

Gongbao Chicken or Kungpao Chicken (宫保鸡丁)

Although Gongbao Chicken is traditionally seen as a Sichuan dish, the creator of the dish, Ding Baozhen (1820-1886), was born in Guizhou. Ding Baozhen was an influential official during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and he created this dish to entertain his guests. Once the recipe got out, Gongbao Chicken became so popular that it is now widely available throughout China. The main ingredient, diced chicken, is fried with peppers, sauces, salt, vinegar, ginger, and garlic, although regional variations sometimes include nuts or other vegetables. The dish is distinctly spicy and tastes delightfully fresh.

Huaxi Beef Rice Noodles (花溪牛肉粉)

This noodle dish originated from and was named after the district of Huaxi in Guiyang city. Although this dish may look simple, it is notoriously complicated to make. The noodle broth has an aromatically spicy taste. The dish itself is made from diced beef, handmade rice noodles, coriander, huajiao, chillies, pickled cabbage and ginger. The pickled cabbage is what gives this dish its sour tang. We recommend adding sesame oil or chilli oil to the broth to taste.

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Langdeshang Village

Langdeshang Village, or Langde Upper Village, is an archetypal Miao village in Leishan County, Guizhou, located about 30 kilometres outside of Kaili City. It has become famous throughout China for its peaceful natural atmosphere, friendly locals and rich cultural heritage. There are only 500 villagers living in Langdeshang and all of them come from only ten different family lines. Although it is generally considered a small village, in many ways it is as impressive as the mega-cities of Beijing and Shanghai. The village has become like a museum, preserving ancient buildings and local customs that have been practised by the Miao for hundreds of years. Langdeshang’s popularity stems from the fact that the locals, with their bright smiles and kind eyes, are eager to share this cultural heritage with anyone who visits their village.

As Langdeshang is located at the foot of a mountain, the village is made up of Diaojiaolou, which are typical Miao buildings that are held up by wooden stilts and are between two to three storeys high. The front of the building is supported by pillars whilst the rear of the building is suspended on stilts that keep it level with the mountainside. These buildings are an architectural wonder, as oftentimes they have been built without the use of any nails or rivets. They are held together by means of a system of wooden joints, which lock together perfectly and give the structure stability. All of these Diaojiaolou will have been built by local carpenters and made from wood cut from the surrounding fir trees. The women in Langdeshang wear long skirts and so are often referred to as “long skirt Miao”.

The village rests by a stream and is nestled deep within the mountains. The rich green grass, the gentle chirping of the birds and the soft rays of the sun setting over the hills come together to create a wonderfully soothing atmosphere. There are five “flower roads” that lead into the village and three wooden gatehouses, or village gates, at the northern, western and eastern entrances to the village. These roads are paved with smooth blue flagstones or rippling cobbles that, alongside the looming stilted houses, look incredibly picturesque.

On arrival at Langdeshang, visitors will be greeted with a traditional welcoming ceremony. Beautiful young local girls will arrive, adorned in their traditional dress, and “block the way” of the village gate. Twelve tables will be set up in the middle of the path that leads into the village. At each table, the visitors will be met with two young locals in their traditional dress. These two locals will propose a toast and the visitors must drink two bowls of “block-the-way” wine. Once they’ve reached the final table, the toast will be made with a huge bull horn that has been filled with “block-the-way” wine. However, if you plan on visiting Langdeshang but don’t want to drink too much of this wine, there’s no need to worry! All you need to do is put your hands behind your back, bend forward a little, touch the cup with your lip, and say “dousemo”, which is the Miao word for “thank you”. That way you can pass the table and move on to the next one without having to drink any wine and without causing offence. The villagers are very friendly and will not make any visitors drink if they don’t want to.

Once the toasts are complete, the villagers will set off firecrackers, play the mangtong[1], and sing the song called “Toasting the Guests”. The guests are then led to the lusheng[2] ground, where the men will play the lusheng and the young villagers will perform traditional dances. Eventually, all of the villagers will participate in the dance and the guests will be invited to join in! Imagine drinking the smooth wine, revelling in the traditional dance and then settling down at dusk, strolling around the quiet village and taking in the sultry air. We’re sure you’ll agree that Langdeshang is a truly magical place and definitely worth a visit.

[1] Mangtong: A Chinese wind instrument. It is composed of a bamboo pipe without finger holes that is fitted with a metal free reed and then placed in a larger bamboo resonator. They come in varying sizes, with the largest being up to 2 metres in length. One mangtong can only produce a single pitch, so normally several are played together.

[2] Lusheng: A wind instrument made of multiple bamboo pipes, each fitted with a free reed, that are all in turn fitted into a large, hardwood pipe. Normally there are five or six bamboo pipes that are each of a different pitch. Air is blown into the hardwood pipe to create sound. They vary in size from small, handheld ones to ones that are several metres in length.

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Drum Towers

The Drum Towers that loom over every Dong village look like giant cedar trees winding their way to the sky. Drum Towers are a triumph of Dong architecture and are deeply culturally significant to the Dong ethnic minority. They are the place where the elders meet, socialise and, at one point in history, even passed judgement. They are an important social hub in any Dong community and are thus the perfect place to experience authentic Dong culture. There is a Drum Tower in every Dong village and, though they all bear basic similarities, no two towers are ever exactly the same.

There are two different types of Drum Tower: single-pillar towers and multi-pillar towers. As the name suggests, single-pillar towers are braced by only one pillar. They are the less popular of the two types. Multi-pillar towers are braced by four main pillars and 12 smaller pillars, which are believed to represent the four seasons and the 12 months of the year. The four central pillars are sometimes referred to as the “Golden Pillars”. Like the Wind-Rain bridges, the Drum Towers are built without using any nails and instead rely on groove joints, which hold the beams and columns of the tower together perfectly. Most Drum Towers will have a square base but the tower itself will usually be hexagonal or octagonal in shape. The storeys of the tower get wider as they go from top to bottom, giving the tower a tapered appearance. Every Drum Tower will have an odd number of storeys, as the Dong people believe this is a symbol of good fortune.

In accordance with the Dong people’s worship of trees, the outline of the Drum Tower is supposed to look like a large tree, specifically a cedar tree. The shape of the tower is supposed to represent the legendary Cedar King from Dong folklore. The tower’s interior and exterior will be lavishly decorated with carvings and paintings of animals, famous historical figures, flowers and tableaus of legendary stories, festivals and daily life. The first storey is usually the most elaborately decorated. In every village, the local clan will have built their own Drum Tower. The size of the tower and the artistic beauty of its decoration indicate the status of the clan who built it, so a large and extravagantly decorated Drum Tower is a sign of a wealthy and powerful Dong community.

Inside the Drum Tower there are benches between the four main pillars. These benches encircle what is called the “fire pond”, which is a fire pit that is kept lit throughout most of the year. It is believed that one of the functions of this “fire pond” is to dry out the inside of the Drum Tower so the wood does not rot, as Guizhou’s climate is notoriously damp and rainy. A large leather drum hangs down from the top of the tower, which is why they are called “Drum Towers”. The drum is beaten whenever something of import happens within the village, although nowadays most towers do not have working drums.

Historically the Drum Tower has always had an important social function within any Dong community. In the past, the council of elders in a Dong village would gather in the tower whenever someone from the village had violated one of the village rules. There they would confer and decide upon a suitable punishment for that individual. Once they had reached a decision, the elders would beat the drum and the villagers would gather to hear the verdict. This custom is no longer practised, although some small disputes may still be handled by the council of elders within the Drum Tower. Nowadays it is a place where villagers can gather to entertain each other by singing, playing instruments, dancing or simply meeting and socialising. The tower is also still the main venue for important festivals.

The number of Drum Towers in each village depends on how many clans or large families live within the village. Each large family or clan will erect their own Drum Tower as a monument to their family. Small Dong villages will only have one Drum Tower because they usually only house one clan and all of the villagers will have the same family name. Larger Dong villages, such as Zhaoxing, will have more than one Drum Tower because the village is home to a number of different clans, all with different family names.

Zengchong Drum Tower

The Zengchong Drum Tower is regarded as one of the archetypal Dong-style Drum Towers and it is the largest Drum Tower in Guizhou province. It is located in Zengchong Village, about 50 kilometres northwest of Jingxian County. It was built in 1675, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and it covers an area of over 100 square metres. It is a five-storey octagonal shaped tower, stretching 20 metres from top to bottom, with 13 eaves and a pyramidal roof. The “fire pond” within the tower is nearly 2 metres in diameter. There are three doors into the tower, on the south, north, and west sides respectively, and there is a horizontal tablet on the ground floor. This tablet was carved in 1830 and has four Chinese characters inscribed upon it, which read: “Ten-Thousand-Li[1] Soft Breeze”. The leather drum within the tower is still intact and in use today.

Drum Towers are often considered holy shrines by the local people and so, if you visit Zengchong village, be sure to note what is hanging from the village gate. If there is a thatch design hanging from the gate, this means religious celebrations are taking place and only residents are permitted entrance to the Drum Tower.

Unfortunately, at the moment there is no direct transport to Zengchong village. In order to get to the village, you first need to take the bus from Kaili to Rongjiang, which takes about 4 hours. After that, you must take another bus from Rongjiang to Congjiang and get off at Tingdong. From Tingdong, the only way to get to Zengchong village is to flag down a tractor that is heading that way, as there will be no taxis or public buses in Tingdong. There are private hostels in Zengchong village that are very cheap and near to the Drum Tower, although they may not be equipped with all modern amenities. Alternatively, you can visit the Drum Towers in the Dong villages of Sanbao, Yintan or Xiaohuang, which are all much easier to get to.

[1] Li: A unit of distance used in China that roughly equates to 500 metres (1,640 ft.)

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Zhaoxing

Zhaoxing village is located about 72 kilometres (45 miles) from Liping County Town, Guizhou, and is one of the largest Dong villages in China. Zhaoxing boasts a population of over 4,000 people and 800 households. According to local legend, this village was supposedly founded during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), meaning the village ancestors settled there over 840 years ago.

Zhaoxing is one of the most famous Dong villages in China, in part due to its size but predominantly due to the fact that it has five Drum Towers. Each tower is specially named in order to promote a certain virtue. The first tower is called “Ren”, which means “benevolence”. The second is called “Yi”, meaning “righteousness”. The third is named “Li”, meaning “courtesy”. The fourth is called “Zhi”, meaning “wisdom”, and the fifth is named “Xin”, meaning “faithfulness”. Each tower is different in terms of its method of construction, size, height and external appearance. Of the five towers, the Zhi Tower is generally considered to be the most beautiful. There are also numerous Wind-Rain bridges in the village, which are located on the Nanjiang River that runs through Zhaoxing.

Outside each of the Drum Towers, there are theatre stages and singing platforms. Every night, these platforms come alive with vivid plays and powerful folk songs performed by the villagers. The liveliness and size of this village makes it the perfect place to experience any of the Dong festivals, including the Dong New Year, the New Harvest Festival, the Lusheng[1] Festival, and the Sama Festival. Of all the Dong festivals, the most famous is the 500-year-old festival known as Ni Ren Jie or Ni Ren Festival. This festival is celebrated every year on August 15^th according to the Chinese lunar calendar, and takes place in Xiage village, which is about four kilometres away from Zhaoxing. It is normally celebrated after the autumn harvest. During the festival, the Dong people give thanks to the gods for a good harvest and express their love of the earth.

Ni Ren Jie is separated into two parts, referred to in the Dong language as Duoma (playing with mud) and Daoshen (bull-fighting). In the Duoma part of the festival, young, half-naked men will enter a pond that has been specially made for the festival and try to catch fish with their bare hands, which muddies the water. Each time they manage to catch a fish, they will hold it high in the air and the onlookers will loudly praise them. As the young men scramble to catch fish, the pond will become muddier and muddier, until eventually they start daubing mud on the bodies of everyone involved. When all of the participants are completely covered in mud, the Duoma part of the festival ends and the Daoshen part begins.

On exiting the pond, each participant will take their prize bull to the pond for the bull-fighting competition. These bulls are specially raised for this festival alone. They do not plough fields or do farm work of any kind, and are kept on a special diet to make sure they are larger and stronger than normal working bulls. The bulls will either fight within the pond or within a specially made ring near the Drum Tower. After many bouts, the final winner will be chosen and given the title of “Bull King”, which is a precious honour for both the bull and its master.

No matter what is happening in Zhaoxing, whether it is a local festival or simply just a regular working day, the locals are very friendly and welcome tourists to come join them. If you still have time and energy after your trip to Zhaoxing, there are six other Dong villages nearby that are also worth visiting. One of these villages, called Tangan Village, is about 7 kilometres to the east of Zhaoxing and is home to the only Dong People Eco-museum. There is also a nearby mountain called Mount Sansui, which rewards any hiker who scales its heights with a stunning view of the surrounding countryside.

Zhaoxing is one of the more accessible Dong villages. You can fly to Liping County from Shanghai, Guangzhou, Guilin and Guiyang. From Liping, there are buses every hour to Zhaoxing and the journey takes about two hours. Alternatively you can take a bus directly from Guiyang to Zhaoxing, which takes about nine to ten hours. There are plenty of guesthouses and a handful of hotels in the village, which are all reasonably priced.

[1] Lusheng: A wind instrument made of multiple bamboo pipes, each fitted with a free reed, that are all in turn fitted into a large, hardwood pipe. Normally there are five or six bamboo pipes that are each of a different pitch. Air is blown into the hardwood pipe to create sound. They vary in size from small, handheld ones to ones that are several metres in length.

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Huangguoshu Waterfall

Legend has it that, when a Chinese general named Wu Sangui (1612-1678) was defeated in battle, he threw all of his gold and silver into the Rhinoceros Pool at the bottom of Huangguoshu Waterfall. He then defected to the Qing Dynasty, turning on the Ming imperials who he had once served. His attempt to betray the Qing Dynasty proved to be his downfall, as he was defeated and executed by them. Years after his death, it was said that an old couple settled beside the Huangguoshu Waterfall. They planted over 100 fruit trees there but they were all barren. Only one fruit tree stood out among the rest and bore on its branches one large, yellow fruit.

One day, a Taoist priest happened to be passing by and he saw the yellow fruit. He was so overwhelmed by joy at the sight of this fruit that he offered the old couple 1,000 liang (about 5,000 kg) of silver for it, but only on the proviso that they did not pick the fruit for 100 days. The old couple were delighted by the offer and promised to watch the tree until the priest returned on the 100^th day. After 99 days, the old couple began to grow anxious. They worried that birds may try to eat the fruit or insects may bury into it. They made the decision to pick the fruit, as it was only a few hours until dawn. When the Taoist priest returned to collect the fruit and found that it had been picked early, he was overcome with disappointment.

The old couple did not understand why he was so upset, so he took them to the Rhinoceros Pool and tossed the huge, yellow fruit into the water. The fruit began swirling round and round in the pool and, as it turned, it became larger and larger, sucking in all of the water. The more water it absorbed, the brighter the pool became, until finally all of the water was gone and Wu Sangui’s treasure was uncovered. The old couple were delighted by the treasure but, before they had a good chance to look at it, the yellow fruit burst and the water filled up the Rhinoceros Pool, covering the treasure once again. The Taoist priest told the elderly couple that, according to prophecy, if this magical yellow fruit had been left for 100 days, it would have absorbed all of the water and allowed them to retrieve the lost treasure. The waterfall was then named Huangguoshu or “Yellow Fruit Tree” Waterfall, in honour of this legend. Some believe that the rainbow above the Rhinoceros Pool is actually just the light shining off of Wu Sangui’s hidden treasure.

Huangguoshu Waterfall maintains its mystical atmosphere to this day. It is 74 metres (243 ft.) high and 81 metres (266 ft.) wide, making it the largest waterfall in China. It is actually a cluster of waterfalls and is named after the largest waterfall of the cluster, Huangguoshu Waterfall, but also contains Doupotang Waterfall, Luositan Waterfall, Spider Cave Waterfall, Lumei Pond Waterfall, and Longmen Flying Waterfall, to name but a few. Each of these waterfalls has its own unique charm, but Huangguoshu Waterfall is undoubtedly the most magnificent. This cluster of waterfalls is located on the Baishui River and is about 45 kilometres southwest of Anshun City, Guizhou. It is more often referred to as Huangguoshu Waterfall National Park.

The waterfall makes for a perfect tourist attraction, as you can view the cascading water from a variety of vantage points. The three recommended viewing stations are the Waterfall-Viewing Pavilion (Guanputing), the Water-Viewing Pavilion (Wangshuiting) and the Waterfall-Viewing Stage (Guanbaotai). At the Waterfall-Viewing Pavilion you’ll be treated to a panoramic view of the whole waterfall. At the Water-Viewing Pavilion you’ll get a unique birds-eye view of the waterfall. At the Waterfall-Viewing Stage, near the Rhinoceros Pool, you can enjoy the unusual, rhinoceros-shaped pool or crane your neck upwards and watch the waterfall thundering above you.

All of these vantage points undoubtedly provide any tourist visiting Huangguoshu Waterfall with stunning views of the waterfall and plenty of gorgeous photographs to remember their trip by. However, the most popular viewing platform, the Water-Curtain Cave (Shuiliandong), is by far the most exceptional. The Water-Curtain Cave is a naturally formed cave that is 134 metres (440 ft.) long and sits directly behind the waterfall. It is actually made up of about 6 separate caves and this system of caves allows visitors to walk behind the waterfall. At the fourth cave, known as Mopu Flat (Moputai), you can even reach out and touch the water as it is falling.

The best time to visit Huangguoshu Waterfall is between May and October, during the rainy season, as the flow of water will be at its strongest. The peak tourist season is between July and August. Watching a rainbow curve its way over the stunning Huangguoshu Waterfall as it thunders into the Rhinoceros Pool is certainly a wonder to behold. Perhaps, on your visit, you may even find a big, yellow fruit!

Dragon Palace Cave

The Dragon Palace Cave Scenic Area boasts a network of underground caves and natural Karst rock formations that are unparalleled throughout China. The area is so-named because the Dragon Palace Cave, or Longgong Cave, is so magnificent that it is believed to resemble the legendary palace of the Dragon King. It is home to the longest underground river and the largest underground waterfall in China. The attraction is separated into four main parts: the Rapeseed Lake, the Whirlpool, the Leech Pass, and the Dragon Palace. It is located in the Matou Township, about 32 kilometres away from Anshun City, Guizhou.

This magnificent underground cave system covers a colossal 60 square kilometres (23 square miles) and is made up of lakes, waterfalls, stalactites and stalagmites. The underground river stretches some 5,000 metres in length and flows beneath 20 hills, connecting over 90 limestone caves. Currently only about 1,000 metres (1 km) of the river is open to tourists. Tourists can enter the cave system by rowboat via the mouth of a cave on Heavenly Lake (Tianchi Lake). From there, they can enjoy a calming boat ride along the underground river and watch the landscape change as they go deeper and deeper into the caves.

At the entrance to the Dragon Palace Cave, you’ll find the largest underground waterfall in China: the Dragon Gate Fall. The waterfall crashes down directly from Heavenly Lake through a crescent-shaped hole and falls into a pool inside the Dragon Palace Cave. It is 38 metres high and 25 metres wide, forming a solid column of rushing water, and from the bottom it looks like a beautiful white dragon flying out of the cave. On entering the Dragon Palace Cave, you’ll be met with a stunning display of coloured lights that are used to illuminate it. The cave is full of huge stalactites and stalagmites, all curving up from below the water or down from the ceiling. They look strangely beautiful when lit up and add to the supernatural atmosphere of the cave.

The region surrounding this tourist site is home to the Bouyei ethnic minority, so a trip to Dragon Palace Cave provides anyone with the perfect opportunity to visit a few Bouyei villages and communities along the way. This region is also well-known for its towering mountains, crystal clear lakes and stunning rape flower blossoms. Due to the unusual shape of the Karst landscape, when the rape flowers blossom they create beautiful waves of yellow and gold across the mountains and plains. If you visit the Dragon Palace Cave in spring, you may even get to see some of the local Bouyei performances for the Rape Blossom Festival, which is celebrated between February and March every year. With its thundering waterfalls, glistening stalactites, and shadowy caves, the Dragon Palace Cave Scenic Area is truly a sight worth seeing, both inside and out.

Basha Village

Basha is a village unlike any other in China. It is home to members of the Miao ethnic minority but it is unique amongst all other Miao communities. This is because it is the only place in China where residents are still legally allowed to own and carry guns. When the Chinese government tried to confiscate the guns from the members of Basha village, they refused and it was decided that they should be allowed to keep their rifles as part of their rich cultural heritage. To this day, visitors are welcomed with a thrilling display of expert shooting by the local men.

Basha Village is about 7 kilometres away from Congjiang County Town in southeast Guizhou. According to local legend, the village was established over 2,000 years ago when their ancestors emigrated from Central China to the remote, mountainous regions of Guizhou. These ancestors were frontline troops who used rifles to defend the village from outsiders and occasionally from wild animals, such as bears. This is why gun ownership has become such an important part of their culture.

As you enter Basha Village, you’ll notice a board with the words “China’s First Village of Tribe Culture” inscribed upon it. Do not be alarmed if you are greeted with men brandishing their rifles! This is part of their traditional welcoming ceremony and they have no intention of harming you. If you’re lucky, you may even get to see them fire their cannon. The village itself is home to about 1,000 residents and has over 400 separate households. The villagers still live in traditional Miao dwellings known as Diaojiaolou, which are wooden houses held up by stilts. They are normally two-storeys high, with the front of the house supported by pillars and the rear directly affixed to the mountain using wooden stakes. There are also wooden structures called “rafts” scattered throughout the village that are used to dry un-husked rice.

Due to their cautious nature, the villagers have virtually isolated themselves from the outside world. They are almost completely self-sufficient and still maintain practices and customs that date back hundreds of years. Their traditional dress dates back all the way to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, as does the men’s unique hairstyle. All of their clothes are made from hessian or “gunny cloth”. Local women spin natural fibres or “gunny threads”, and then cut them into shorter segments, which are neatened and used to weave the cloth. The cloth is dyed using a mixture made from a local plant and egg whites. It is the local plant that gives the clothes their distinct, bluish-purple colour and the egg whites that make the fabric waterproof and shiny.

Some of the villagers do not wear shoes, even in the freezing cold winter. The local men wear collarless coats with buttons on the left hand side or down the front, and short, baggy trousers. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the men will have little, embroidered “tails” attached to their coats. These “tails” are actually gifts from local girls and each one symbolises that the man has won the heart of a girl. The more “tails” a Basha man has, the more popular he is with the women in the village. Each man will also carry a claymore (a type of sword) at their waist and a hunting rifle on their shoulder.

The men of this village sport a hairstyle that is completely unique to Basha. Rather than having their hair cut, boys will grow their hair long, like the girls. Sometime between the age of seven and fifteen, each boy will have a coming of age ceremony where they are given the choice to retain their long hair or have it shaved. During the shaving ceremony, the tribe leader will wet a sickle and then delicately shave off all of the boy’s hair except for the hair at the centre, which will be coiled into a bun. This is done without any kind of shaving cream or other shaving tools. If the young man decides to keep his hair, it will be kept long and coiled into a bun on top of his head. Local men believe that their hair bun is a symbol of their masculinity and power. When the boys are fifteen years of age, they will be given their own rifle as a sign that they are now adults.

The women’s clothing in Basha is much more elaborate. Like the men, they also wear a coat that is buttoned down the front, but instead of trousers they wear a kilt and adorn their attire with colourful wraps, leg wrappings and wristbands. Their clothes are all beautifully embroidered and incredibly colourful. Sometimes young girls will also wear silver ornaments on their chest. The Miao people in Basha are categorised as part of the “Short Miao” subgroup. The Miao ethnic minority are generally subdivided into two subgroups based on the length of the women’s skirts, hence the term “Short Miao” to denote the shorter skirts. These subgroups differ culturally and adhere to a different set of customs.

The local religion in Basha involves worshipping trees and the villagers have a particular reverence for the maple tree. They believe that the buns on their heads represent trees and their bluish purple clothes represent tree bark. When a baby is born in Basha, they plant a tree for them and oftentimes this tree will be cut down and used to make that person’s coffin when they die. The ancient trees in Basha are the most revered and it is forbidden to cut them down or damage them in any way. On important occasions and during traditional festivals, the villagers will burn incense under these ancient trees and pray for health and happiness.

Normally each big tree will have a swing hanging from it that is strong enough to carry two people. They are used by the village children to play on but traditionally their main role is in courtship. On the 7^th of July every year, according to the Chinese lunar calendar, the villagers will hold the Swing Festival. For three days, young people of both genders will play on the large swings. If a boy notices a girl that he likes, he will jump on the swing with her and then step on her feet to show that he loves her. If his love is requited, then the girl will step on his feet before continuing to play on the swing. If the love is unrequited, then the girl will simply continue playing on the swing and the boy will have to try his luck somewhere else.

Other festivals in Basha are celebrated using the lusheng[1], a traditional wind instrument of the Miao people. When the Basha villagers are worshipping the God of the Sun, they will face the sun with their lusheng, take seven steps back and then begin playing. Most of the festivals take place in the Lusheng Hall near the village. The “hall” is actually a round piece of flat ground surrounded by ancient trees. According to locals, this place is sacred and was formed naturally, with no outside influence. During festivals, the locals will perform what is called the Lusheng Cai Tang, which is when the men, and sometimes the women, vigorously play the lusheng. Sometimes they will even dance while playing the lusheng. Lusheng Hall is usually open to the public.

With all of this excitement on offer, it’s no wonder that Basha has developed such a fine reputation. Its people and their customs have remained largely unchanged for thousands of years, and are still as fascinating and mysterious as ever. It truly is the perfect place to experience the diversity of Miao culture in China.

Join our travel to enjoy the amazing Miao performance in Basha Village: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Xiaohuang

Xiaohuang is located about 22 kilometres away from Congjiang County. However, about 14 kilometres of the road is a sandy, zigzag path through the mountains, so the bus from Congjiang to Xiaohuang can take about an hour. Over 3,000 people live in this village and, as the village is pretty isolated from the outside world, the locals have become relatively self-sufficient. To this end, everyone in the village is proficient at farming, hunting and weaving cloth.

Xiaohuang is often referred to as the Village of Songs because the Dong people in this village are particularly accomplished at performing polyphonic folk songs known as “Dage” or Grand Songs. In 1996 the Ministry of Culture of the People’s Republic of China bestowed the title “the Village of China Folk Art” on Xiaohuang because of its preservation of the Dong singing tradition. Over one third of the population of Xiaohuang is made up of professional folk singers. While some folk songs are accompanied by the pipa[1], most are sung without any musical accompaniment.

From dusk till dawn, you will always be greeted by the harmonious sound of singing throughout Xiaohuang. The Dong ethnic minority have no written language, so they use folk songs to narrate their daily life, express their feelings and keep a record of their history. All of Dong culture is preserved in these magnificent folk songs. The more songs a Dong person knows, the better educated they are considered to be. Singing is so important to the Dong people that supposedly, in the past, if a man couldn’t sing then he would struggle to find a wife.

From an early age, children in the village are encouraged to love singing and hold on to this passion well into their old age. Children from the age of five will be trained by one of the accomplished local singers free of charge and these singing teachers are greatly revered in the village. The villagers are separated into different choirs depending on their age and gender. Every choir is distinguished by their particular style of singing and the topics of their songs. For example, choirs of young children will sound sweet and lively, while choirs of young girls sound innocent and full of passion, and choirs of men have a depth to their voices that sounds haunting and powerful. Female choirs incorporate sopranos, mezzo-sopranos and contraltos and male choirs incorporate countertenors, tenors, baritones and bass’.

The most talented singers in any Dong village make up what are called Kam Grand Choirs. The Kam Grand Choir tradition is thought to date back all the way to the Warring States Period (475BC-221 B.C.), with a history of over 2,500 years behind it. In 2009, it was made a World Class Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. A Kam Grand Choir is a polyphonic choir that sings without the help of a conductor or any accompanying orchestra. Most songs performed by these choirs consist of a prelude, a main body made up of several sections and an ending. These songs are designed to imitate the natural world, such as the chirping of insects, the gurgling of streams, the whistling of the wind and other soothing natural sounds. The singing is designed to spur the soul and originate from the heart. The solo singing will be done by the sopranos and the bass section is sung by the rest of the choir. The soprano section will be performed by between one and three sopranos, depending on the style of song.

There are Male Choirs, Female Choirs and Child Choirs, and each of these is further separated into four main categories based on their styles, melodies and the content of their songs. In the Dong dialect, these four categories are called Gating, Gama, Gaxiang and Gaji. Gating or “Choirs of Sound” perform songs that are characterised by an undulating melody and short lyrics, employing the use of several sopranos. This style of song is dedicated almost entirely to imitating the sounds of the natural world. The famous Cicada Song is a fine example of a Gating-style song. Gama or “Romance Choirs” perform songs revolving around the theme of love and employ slow rhythms and soft voices to heighten their effect.

Gaxiang or “Morality Choirs” perform songs that are designed to educate, advise or console the Dong people by praising virtues and condemning inappropriate behaviour. These songs have an even tune in order to draw focus to their lyrics. Finally, Gaji or “Narrative Choirs” perform songs that focus on dialogue and plot, and are characterised by slow, melancholy or soothing tunes. The Gaji songs are some of the hardest to perform, as they require the performers to remember lengthy lyrics, complicated plots and various key facial expressions. Usually these songs will be led by only one soprano.

If you want to experience the majesty of a performance by a Kam Grand Choir in Xiaohuang, you will have to book it in advance. The scale of the orchestra will vary depending on how many tourists have booked a place and how much they have paid. However, if you come during any of the Chinese public holidays, you’ll be treated to a free performance by the villagers. The best time to come is on National Day public holidays, which is around 1^st of October every year. Unfortunately, during these public holidays Dong villages like Xiaohuang can become crowded.

If you want to avoid the crowds, we recommend that you visit during the Dong New Year festival, which is normally sometime between late October and early November every year according to the Chinese lunar calendar. During the New Year celebrations, the surrounding Dong villages will hold a singing competition that is truly magnificent to behold. A similar competition organised by the government is now also held during Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) and occasionally a singing competition will also be held on August 16^th(Chinese lunar calendar). If you’re taking a tour of the Dong villages, we strongly recommend visiting Xiaohuang and experiencing first-hand a village that is forever immersed in song.

[1] Pipa: A four-stringed plucking instrument that has a pear-shaped wooden body and anywhere from 12 to 26 frets. It is sometimes referred to as the Chinese lute.

Join our travel to enjoy the fantastic Dong Kam Grand Choirs in xiaohuang Village: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

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