The Kumtag Desert (Shanshan)

Located just one kilometre (0.6 mi) from the city of Shanshan, the Kumtag Desert is the closest desert to any city in the world. In spite of widespread desertification across northwestern China, this city has miraculously been spared, as it does not lie in the path of the powerful winds that shift the ever-encroaching sand onto the plains. In 2002, it was established as a national park, making it the ideal place for any visitor who’s ever dreamt of adventuring out into the wilderness like Indiana Jones! It originally covered just 1,880 square kilometres (726 sq. mi), but was expanded to include the 1,000-square kilometre (386 sq. mi) Kanas Geological Park in 2007.

Scientific exploration and sight-seeing may be the park’s main draws, but it is also renowned as a place of healing. Sand treatment, which involves burying affected body parts in warm sand for extended periods of time, is rumoured to cure rheumatism, pelvic problems, backaches, and a variety of other disorders. The sands of time may bring the ailments of old age, but the sands of the Kumtag Desert are sure to heal them!

Mount Heng

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With its 72 peaks jutting majestically into the sky, Mount Heng[1] creates a striking tableau in the countryside of Hunan province. Its beauty has earned it the status of “Nanyue” or “South Mountain”, marking it as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. The mountain range itself stretches for a colossal 150 kilometres (93 mi), with Huiyan Peak at its southernmost point and Yuelu Mountain at its northern tip. At a staggering 1,300 metres (4,266 ft.) in height, Zhurong Peak is its highest elevation. Although its natural scenery and cultural significance has attracted a number of visitors, it is probably the least-visited of the Five Great Mountains and makes for an enjoyable hike if you want to escape the tourist crowds.

Many of the forests that blanket its peaks are primeval, with trees averaging at an age of 300 to 400 years and some that are over 1,000 years old. Bent-double and covered in lichen, they somewhat resemble elderly men hunched over from the pain of old age! From rolling clouds to meadows resplendent with colourful flowers, Mount Heng is full of stunning panoramic views. Its spectacular scenery during the four seasons is often described as the “four oceans”: an ocean of flowers, an ocean of trees, an ocean of clouds, and an ocean of snow.

Mount Heng 01The city of Hengyang acts as a gateway to the mountain, although the town at its base is eponymously named Nanyue. Since it is regarded as a sacred mountain, its expanse is littered with marvellous temple complexes and ancient inscriptions. Hidden among the dense pine forests and lush canyons, they have remained as a testament to mankind’s fascination with the mountain. Evidence suggests that scholars and members of the imperial family were visiting Mount Heng as early as 2,000 years ago, leaving stone inscriptions of poetry in their wake.

During the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), Taoism made its way to the mountain and Taoists designated various “blessed spots” where they would practice their faith. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907), ten large Taoist temples and eight hundred bamboo houses had cropped up to accommodate the influx of Taoist priests. About 200 years after Taoism’s arrival, Buddhism was introduced to Mount Heng. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties Period (420-589), a large group of accomplished Buddhist monks settled there and gradually formed their own religious sects, the most influential of which was the Tiantai Sect. Many of the philosophies that these monks expounded ended up significantly affecting Buddhist religious practices not only in China, but also in Japan and Southeast Asia.

At the foot of the mountain, you’ll find the largest temple complex in southern China, the Grand Temple of Mount Heng. Although its founding year is technically unknown, records indicate that it was built in the year 725. Throughout the Song (960-1279), Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644), and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties, it suffered through six fires and underwent 16 large-scale renovations. In 1882, it had to be almost completely rebuilt after being burned down, and it was constructed following the layout of the Forbidden City in Beijing. This earned it the nickname “Little Palace in South China”. As a testimony to the mountain’s multi-religious nature, the temple’s eastern wing is made up of the Eight Temples of Taoism and its western wing hosts the Eight Temples of Buddhism.

However, the highlight of any trip to Mount Heng is undoubtedly seeing its Four Wonders: Zhurong Peak, Water Curtain Cave, Fangguang Temple, and the Sutra[2] Collection Hall. These are famed for their height, oddity, spiritual depth, and architectural elegance respectively. Three may be the magic number, but four is evidently the most wonderful!

 

[1] This is not to be confused with Mount Heng in Shanxi province, which is also one of China’s Five Great Mountains.

[2] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha.

The Harbin Ice Festival

During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), local farmers and fishermen in northeast China would look forward to the bitterly cold winter, when temperatures would frequently drop to below -30°C (-22°F) and snow would lay claim to the landscape for upwards of seven months. While most people would dread such harrowing weather, they welcomed it, as it meant they could practice their most beloved winter-time tradition: the making of ice lanterns. First, they would simply pour water into a bucket and leave it outside to freeze. Once it was almost frozen solid, they would gently warm the sides of the bucket and ease the block of ice out.

They would then chisel a hole in the top and any water remaining inside would be poured out, creating a hollow vessel. A candle would be placed inside the hole, thus producing a windproof lantern that could be used as a jack-light to guide the farmers and fishermen during the long winter nights. As time went on, the popularity of these ice lanterns grew and people began using them as decorations. Artisans would fashion progressively more delicate and artistic lanterns until finally, in 1963, the Ice Lantern Show and Garden Party was born in Heilongjiang province’s capital of Harbin.

Although it was briefly interrupted during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), the festival returned with new force in 1985 and gradually developed into a much larger event known as the Harbin Ice Festival, with magnificent ice and snow sculptures blanketing the city for months at a time. In 2001, it was combined with Heilongjiang’s International Ski Festival and was given a new official title: the Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival. Informative though this title undoubtedly is, many people choose to save time by truncating it back to the Harbin Ice Festival!

Nowadays it has grown to become the largest winter festival in the world, taking up over 600,000 square metres (6,458,346 sq. ft.) of space and attracting about 10 to 15 million visitors every year. It is usually held from the end of December right through to the start of February, and boasts the tallest ice sculptures of any event in the world, with some of the “ice buildings” towering in at 46 metres (151 ft.) in height. In terms of location, the festival is separated into three main exhibition areas: Sun Island, Ice and Snow World, and Zhaolin Park.

Sun Island is an island resting within the Songhua River that is used as a recreational area throughout the year. During the festival, enormous snow sculptures dominate the island, delighting visitors with their grandeur and elegance. They are made using compacted snow, which helps to preserve their shape, and are best viewed during the day, as they are not lit up at night. If you happen to be traveling in Harbin outside of the festival times, don’t fret! The Ice and Snow Art Hall on Sun Island is a refrigerated indoor arena where award-winning snow and ice sculptures from the festival can be viewed year-round.

While Sun Island is undeniably impressive, the festival’s star attraction has always been Ice and Snow World. Over 15,000 people work tirelessly for 16 days in order to create a miniature city made entirely out of ice, complete with dazzling ice sculptures, slides, mazes, and skating rinks. Many of these “ice buildings” are made using ice from the Songhua River and are recreations of real buildings from across the world, such as the Great Sphinx of Giza in Egypt and the Hallgrímskirkja in Iceland. Some of these icy constructions are so large that you can even walk inside them!

Ice and Snow World dazzles during the day, but doesn’t truly come to life until night-time. When the dark sets in, colourful lights illuminate the ice and produce a truly breath-taking spectacle. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, this area also offers numerous unusual activities, including ice rock-climbing, ice archery, ice golf, and raucous snowball fights. Nothing gets you in the festive spirit quite like pummelling your friends with snowballs!

Although Ice and Snow World and Sun Island are the two largest venues, Zhaolin Park was the place where the magic all started. It was the site of the original Ice Lantern Show and Garden Party, and to this day remains the display area for the glittering ice lanterns. Much like Ice and Snow World, it is best visited in the evening, when the lanterns are lit up and shimmer like colourful beacons in the frosty night air. The display is typically constituted of over a thousand lanterns, some of which are carved by the locals themselves. They may not be as colossal in scale as those exhibited in the other areas but their designs, which are usually of mythical characters or animals, are beloved by children. After all, this wintry fairy-tale wouldn’t be complete without a few magical creatures!

 

The Kumtag Desert (Taklamakan)

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Covering a colossal area of 22,900 square kilometres (8,842 sq. mi), the Kumtag Desert spans from Ruoqiang County in Xinjiang to the city of Dunhuang in Gansu province, and forms the eastern section of the much larger Taklamakan Desert. In the language of the Uyghur people, the word “kum-tag” means “sand-mountain” and refers to the looming dunes that populate this barren expanse. The desert itself was formed over a period of centuries, as a result of strong winds colliding and depositing the masses of sand they were carrying in unusual formations.

Sand dunes within the desert can rise to heights of up to 76 metres (250 ft.), making them taller than the Leaning Tower of Pisa! While the region is resplendent with these natural monoliths, it’s also home to a number of magnificent sand statues that have been crafted by local artisans. Lifelike figures, towering fortresses, and miniature sand cities rise up in its barren expanse, creating a dazzling fairy-tale world. Riding camels through the baking hot desert, you’ll be transported back to life as a traveling merchant on the ancient Silk Road.

 

Join a travel with us to explore more about the Kumtag Desert: Explore the Silk Road in China

Jiayu Pass

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Heralded as the “First and Greatest Pass under Heaven”, Jiayu Pass was once one of the most important military fortresses along the Great Wall, alongside Juyong Pass near Beijing and Shanhai Pass in Hebei province. Its grand nickname derives from the fact that it is the first pass at the western end of the Great Wall and, for hundreds of years, it was widely regarded as impregnable. Resting 6 kilometres (4 mi) from the city of Jiayuguan, it spans the narrowest point within the western section of the Hexi Corridor and sits at the base of Jiayu Mountain, from which its name originates. Its focal location near China’s westernmost edge means it was once a key waypoint along the ancient Silk Road.

According to a delightful legend, when the pass was being planned, the official charged with its construction approached the designer and asked him to estimate the number of bricks they would need. The designer emphatically replied that they needed exactly 99,999 bricks but the official flew into a rage, believing the designer to be overconfident in his abilities. He demanded that the designer compensate for any potential oversights by ordering more bricks and, as an act of defiance, the designer ordered just one extra brick. In the end, he was right and the one lone brick, left over after the pass’ completion, reputedly still rests on top of one of the gates.

jiayuguanUnfortunately, the truth is rarely as exciting as the rumour! Jiayu Pass was originally built in 1372, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), under the supervision of an official named Feng Sheng. Unlike other sections of the Great Wall, which were constructed from grey bricks, this section of the wall was made from loess soil that was tamped together in layers, giving it a markedly yellowish hue. However, this section continued to be enhanced and renovated right up until 1540, meaning its construction technically lasted for over 160 years! Altogether the pass is made up of two gates and three defensive sections: the inner city, the outer city, and a moat.

The inner city is enclosed within an 11-metre (36 ft.) high wall and is accessible via two gates, one in the east and one in the west. In keeping with the fortified nature of the complex, each of these gates is protected by a small guard tower and a barbican. Outside the inner city, the outer city forms a secondary barrier and served as the major defensive point of the pass. Its western wall was built from bricks, making it particularly solid, and it incorporates a three-storey tower with a plaque that reads: “Tian Xia Di Yi Xiong Guan” (天下第一雄关) or “the First and Greatest Pass under Heaven”. In short, its towering achievements are undeniable!

Within the inner city, a number of historic structures have been well-preserved, including the Youji General’s Office and Wenchang Hall. In ancient times, the Youji General’s Office was where generals stationed at the pass would gather to discuss military affairs and plan out strategies. The meeting hall reproduces the scene of various generals pouring over military matters, and the back yard offers an insight into how the generals’ families may have lived. While the Youji General’s Office was a place of tactical violence, Wenchang Hall served as the birthplace of beauty and tranquillity. This scenic two-storey pavilion, with its intricately latticed doors and windows, was once used by literati to meet, paint, read, and compose poetry during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Over time, it became the workplace of government officials.

day11-5 02Outside the inner city, the Temple of Guan Yu was the place where generals and soldiers stationed at the pass would pay homage to the legendary Guan Yu, a supposedly invincible military figure from the Shu-Han Dynasty (221-263 AD). The nearby Opera Tower offered soldiers, residents, and passing merchants with a much needed dose of relaxation in the form of magnificent operas. Its red pillars, elaborately carved beams, and exquisite murals of the Eight Immortals continue to delight visitors to this day. At the eastern gate, a giant white beacon tower marks the Jiayuguan Great Wall Museum, where visitors can marvel at ancient weapons, view paintings of the Great Wall, and learn all about the architectural history of Jiayu Pass.

Approximately 8 kilometres (5 mi) south of the pass lies what is known as the “First Strategic Post under Heaven”. Its proximity to the Taolai River earned it the nickname the Taolai River Pier or the First Pier, although strictly speaking it is actually a beacon tower. It was originally built by an official named Li Han in 1539 and represented the western starting point of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall. Beacons towers such as this one were used as a sort of alarm system along the Great Wall and, as the first beacon tower to the west, its significance as a defensive structure was immeasurable. Tragically all that remains of this once magnificent structure is a lonely earthen mound resting at the edge of a cliff.

Historically Jiayu Pass was renowned for its defensive capabilities and its importance to the Silk Road, but it also garnered a rather fearsome reputation as the place where those who were exiled or disgraced were ordered to leave. Known by many as the Gate of Demons, it was believed that any man or woman banished from this gate and left to wander the unforgiving Gobi Desert would certainly never return. The long archway leading out of Jiayu Pass, nicknamed the Traveller’s Gate, was also known as the Gate of Sighs, as it represented the last point before one entered the desert wastes. Etched into its walls are countless writings, penned by exiles, dishonoured officials, and criminals who contemplated their impending demise as they woefully marched out of their beloved country and into the unknown.

Make your dream trip to The Jiayu Pass come true on our travel: Explore the Silk Road in China

Shennongjia Nature Reserve

In prehistoric times, a legendary figure known as Shennong was said to roam the dense forests of Hubei province, searching desperately for medicinal herbs and remedies to add to his repertoire. His quest to provide healing poultices to the common people led him to eat hundreds of different plants each day, resulting in him becoming poisoned over 70 times. You could almost say he had a toxic relationship with the botanical world! The name “Shennongjia” literally translates to mean “Shennong’s Ladder”, in reference to the rattan ladder that he would use to climb up and down the mountains.

Shennongjia Nature Reserve is located in Shennongjia Forestry District, the only district of its kind in China. Its biodiversity, abundance of rare plant and animal species, and beautifully preserved virgin forests meant it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016. Covering a colossal area of over 3,200 square kilometres (1,235 sq. mi), it is more than twice the size of the city of London! Thanks to its mountainous landscape and deep valleys, the reserve encompasses three climatic zones: subtropical, warm temperate, and cold temperate. This means that it can support a wider variety of plant and animal species, resulting in the unique diversity of its inhabitants.

The reserve boasts over 3,400 types of plant, including 26 rare and 33 indigenous species. Over 490 species of animal populate the reserve, many of which are heavily endangered and under state protection, such as the golden snub-nosed monkey, the golden eagle, and the giant salamander. For unknown reasons, the reserve supports an uncommon number of albino residents, with albino bears, deer, squirrels, snakes, and even crows being spotted throughout its expanse. But all of these curiosities pale in comparison to the strange creature that some locals would have you believe is hiding in the forests.

Like the Himalayan Yeti or the American Bigfoot, Shennongjia Nature Reserve is rumoured to be the home of the dreaded Yeren or “Wild Man”. This ape-like beast is said to walk upright like a human, be over 2 metres (6 ft.) tall, and is covered in shaggy red or brown hair. Since the 1970s, there have been several sightings of the Yeren, although thus far it has never been clearly photographed or caught. Hikers beware, the Yeren has a preference for mountainous terrain and is evidently an expert at hide-and-seek!

There are plenty of places for it to live and hide, since the reserve itself is part of the Qinba Mountain Range. Its highest peak, Shennongding, towers in at 3,105 metres (10,187 ft.) above sea level. With an average altitude of 1,700 metres (5,577 ft.), the mountains of Shennongjia are often referred to as the “Roof of Central China”. Based on the various attractions within the reserve, it is usually split into four sections: Shennongding Scenic Area in the southwest; Yantian Scenic Area in the northwest; Xiangxi Source Scenic Area in the southeast; and Yuquan River Scenic Area in the northwest.

Alongside Shennongding Peak, the Shennongding Scenic Area is home to a plethora of hidden gems, including the glittering Dajiu Lake and the accompanying wetlands beneath Yagao Mountain. It is also inhabited by members of the Tujia ethnic minority, who delight visitors with their vibrant customs and rich folk culture. Yantian Scenic Area is an emerging eco-tourism destination, with the valleys of Tianmenya, Yanziya, and Hongping forming the core attractions. They are renowned for their misty peaks, lush foliage, pristine waters, and dizzying cliffs. An ethereal sea of clouds blankets the landscape, giving the impression that one has entered a fairy-tale world.

Xiangxi Source Scenic Area is so-called because it is located near to the source of the Xiangxi or “Fragrant” River. Alongside its apparently beguiling aroma, the waters of the river are also said to contain 14 different kinds of minerals and have special nourishing properties. Historical figures such as Wang Zhaojun, one of the Four Great Beauties of ancient China, and Qu Yuan, a famous poet of the Warring States Period (c. 476-221 BC), were said to visit the river specifically to drink its water. Other highlights of the area include Shennong Altar, a 21-metre (69 ft.) tall statue to commemorate Shennong, and Laojun Mountain, which was named after the founder of Taoism, Laozi.

Yuquan River Scenic Area is similarly based around the Yuquan or “Jade Spring” River and is particularly popular with more adventurous tourists, since it features high mountain peaks, deep valleys, and sprawling lakes. The area also contains its own museum, known as Shennongjia Eco-museum, where visitors can learn about the mysterious Yeren and admire some of the fossils that were found in the nature reserve.

During each of the four seasons, the Shennongjia Nature Reserve transforms into a wonderland of new and exciting scenes. In winter, the mountains are capped by snow and glistening icicles cling to the rock-face. Spring breathes life into the meadows with colourful rhododendrons, cherry blossoms, and all manner of wildflowers. By summer, the sun-baked earth has turned a golden brown and the vibrant greens of the trees shimmer in the bright sunlight, while the rich orange and yellow hues of autumn, though more muted, are no less magnificent.

Wuhan

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The history of Wuhan is a tale of three cities. Before 1949, it was separated into Wuchang, Hankou, and Hanyang, which together formed the industrial, cultural, and commercial centre of Hubei province. Since they were located at the intersection of the Han and Yangtze rivers, they rapidly became some of the major inland trading ports in the country. If three is the magic number, then Wuhan must truly be a magical place! Nowadays, the city remains the most important transportation hub in central China, with countless railways, roads, expressways, and cruises connecting it to cities in the north, south, east, and west. On the north-south axis, it is roughly equidistant from Beijing and Guangzhou, while on the east-west line it forms a vital link between Shanghai and Chongqing.

The area surrounding Wuhan was settled as early as the Zhou Dynasty (c. 1045-256 BC) and, by the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), Hanyang had already risen to become a busy inland port. During the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), the infamous Battle of the Red Cliffs took place in the region, resulting in the construction of city walls around Hanyang and Wuchang to protect them. However, it wasn’t until the Song Dynasty (960-1279) that Hankou came to the fore, as it became one of China’s four major commercial cities.

Under the Treaty of Tientsin (Tianjin), Hankou was opened up to foreign trade in 1858 and, from 1861 to 1896, the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) were forced to grant foreign concessions to Britain, France, Germany, Japan, and Russia. This meant that Hankou, Hanyang, and Wuchang found themselves under Western influence much earlier than most Chinese cities. In 1911, a revolt that broke out in the army barracks of Wuchang eventually escalated into the Xinhai Revolution, which resulted in the toppling of the Qing Dynasty and the end of imperial rule. In short, being made up of three different cities means that Wuhan has three times the history of most places in China!

wuhan 01Although Wuhan boasts a plethora of temples, pavilions, and colonial mansions, the most historically significant building is undoubtedly the Yellow Crane Tower. It was originally built in 223 but it was unfortunately destroyed on numerous occasions and its current incarnation only dates back to 1981. While its initial purpose was as a watchtower, it progressively transformed from military post to picturesque paradise. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), a poem written by Cui Hao entitled simply Yellow Crane Tower skyrocketed it to fame throughout China as a destination of unparalleled beauty.

While the Yellow Crane Tower remains an emblem of manmade majesty in the city, it is shimmering East Lake that embodies the natural splendour of Wuhan. Covering a colossal area of 33 square kilometres (13 sq. mi), it is the largest urban lake in China and is over 6 times the size of Hangzhou’s celebrated West Lake. It is surrounded by mountainous forests, with over 120 islands dotted across its expanse. In springtime, the East Lake Cherry Blossom Park is awash with delicate pink blossoms, while the nearby Wuhan Botanical Garden boasts more than 4,000 plant species and 16 specialty gardens. Nestled deep within the city, it gives new meaning to the term ‘urban jungle’!

On the lake’s banks, you’ll find the luxurious Villa of Chairman Mao Zedong. It was built as a leisurely summer retreat for the Chairman and other privileged members of the Communist Party, but was opened up as a tourist attraction in 1993 so that visitors could learn more about the private life of one of China’s most influential figures. A major highlight is the indoor swimming pool, which is 30 metres (98 ft.) long and six lanes wide. Though it might not be Olympic-sized, it’s larger than most competition-sized pools!

For those who are particularly interested in the region’s history, the Hubei Provincial Museum is packed full of over 200,000 priceless artefacts, some of which date back over 2,000 years ago. Its prized treasure is a set of bronze chime bells, which are 2,430 years old and collectively weigh 5,000 kilograms (5 tonnes). They rank as the heaviest musical instrument in the world, and visitors are treated to a performance on a reproduction of the bells every day.

If you fancy more modern pleasures, Jiqing Street is famed for its vibrant nightlife, with street performers setting up live shows and restaurants offering an authentic taste of Wuhan style cuisine. A local favourite is Hot Dry Noodles, a traditional breakfast dish consisting of freshly boiled noodles, sesame paste, pickled vegetables, soy sauce, chilli oil, and chopped spring onions. Different vendors serve up their own version of this tasty treat, proving that variety really is the spice of life!

The White Deer Grotto Academy

The White Deer Grotto Academy01

Resting at the base of Wulao or “Five Old Men” Peak on Mount Lu, the White Deer Grotto Academy acts as a testament to the importance of education throughout Chinese history. It is regarded as one of China’s Four Great Academies and, in many ways, it helped to shape the education system we see in the country today. Yet this illustrious seat of learning had humble beginnings. It was once simply a cave, where the Tang Dynasty (618-907) poet Li Bo and his brother secluded themselves as hermits and dedicated themselves to the pursuit of knowledge.

When Li Bo rose to prominence as the Governor of Jiangzhou (modern-day Jiujiang), he expanded the cave into a complex of study halls, libraries, and temples. Since Li Bo was famous for keeping a white deer as a pet, he was known as Master White Deer and the complex was named the White Deer Grotto. After Li’s death, it was tragically damaged during the collapse of the Tang Dynasty.

At the beginning of the Song Dynasty (960-1279), the complex was restored and transformed into a school known as the White Deer Grotto Academy. It was particularly favoured by Emperor Taizong, who donated innumerable books to its libraries and awarded an official rank to the academy’s headmaster. However, it seemed that history was tragically doomed to repeat itself, as warfare eventually led to the academy falling into disrepair yet again.

It wasn’t until 1179 that it was rebuilt and expanded by a revolutionary philosopher named Zhu Xi. Zhu is widely regarded as the founder of Neo-Confucianism, one of the most influential schools of thought in East Asia, and thus he played a pivotal role in Chinese history. At the time, he was serving as prefect of Nankang Prefecture (modern-day Nankang), and decided to redesign the academy based on the layout of the Temple of Confucius in Qufu, Shandong province. By 1180, the new academy opened its doors to its eager students, and Zhu personally taught several classes there.

The White Deer Grotto Academy02Its main function was to educate its students, collect and preserve books, act as a site for religious sacrifices, offer lectures from notable scholars, and expand on established philosophies. Throughout its venerable history, celebrated scholars such as Lu Jiuyuan, Lü Zuqian, and Wang Yangming would give lectures in its halls. Thanks to Zhu Xi’s admirable efforts, the prestige of the academy lasted for over eight centuries and it became the model for Neo-Confucian institutions throughout East Asia.

Nowadays the academy acts as one of the many spectacular scenic spots that can be found scattered throughout Mount Lu. Its main buildings include Lingxing Gate, Lisheng Gate, Lisheng Hall, Zhuzi Temple, the White Deer Grotto, and the Imperial Writing Pavilion. Zhuzi Temple was constructed in honour of Zhu Xi and contains over 120 stone tablets, some of which were engraved with inscriptions by the philosopher himself. At the back of the temple, there is a large cave with a stone statue of a white deer lying inside it, acting as a reminder of the complex’s original founder. After all, Zhu Xi’s story may be inspiring, but Li Bo’s relationship with his beloved pet is positively en-deering!

 

Jinan

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Resting at the northern foothills of the Mount Tai massif, Shandong province’s capital of Jinan is an urban centre embedded in nature. Even its nickname, the City of Springs, stems from the 72 artesian springs that add a touch of natural beauty to this bustling metropolis. Historically speaking, relics unearthed at the nearby Chengziya Archaeological Site have proven that the area was a centre for the Neolithic Longshan Culture and was settled over 4,000 years ago. Back when most of us were still bashing rocks together, the people of Chengziya were crafting unbelievably delicate black “egg-shell” pottery!

During the Spring and Autumn Period (c. 771-476 BC), Jinan found itself split between two rival states: the State of Lu in the west and the State of Qi in the east. As a result of this rivalry, the State of Qi built the Great Wall of Qi in 685 BC. Portions of this wall still stand today and can be easily reached from the city centre. Although they are not part of the Great Wall, they represent the oldest Great Wall in China. In short, the State of Qi was building Great Walls before it was cool!

The Warring States Period (c. 476-221 BC) saw the rise of a bold, new philosopher in the city, known as Zou Yan. It was Zou who applied the pre-existing concepts of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements,  which have been integral features of Chinese philosophy ever since their conception, to real life in a scientific and organized manner. As the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD) took over, Jinan became the capital of the Kingdom of Jibei and continued to evolve as a cultural and economic hub in eastern China. The last King of Jibei, Liu Kuan, was buried at nearby Shuangru Mountain and his tomb represented a veritable treasure trove for archaeologists. Having been virtually untouched by grave robbers, the tomb contained over 2,000 precious artefacts such as jade swords, jade masks, and jade pillows, many of which are currently on display in the city’s Shandong Provincial Museum.

By the 5th century, Buddhism had begun to flourish in Jinan, as is evidenced by the ancient Lingyan Temple and the spectacular carvings at Thousand-Buddha Mountain. Another important local celebrity emerged during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), a woman named Li Qingzhao. To this day, Li is widely regarded as the greatest female poet in Chinese history, and her work mainly reflects on the anguish she felt after she was forced to abandon her home when the Jurchen-led Jin Dynasty[1] (1115-1234) conquered Jinan.

However, it wasn’t until much later in its history that Jinan would be firmly regarded as one of China’s major cities. The name Jinan literally means “south of the Ji” and refers to the city’s position, which used to be south of the Ji River. As if by divine intervention, in 1852 the Yellow River shifted its course and overtook the bedding of the Ji River, effectively replacing it. Since the Yellow River was connected to the Grand Canal[2], this meant that Jinan was suddenly linked to the imperial capital of Beijing in the north and the agriculturally rich regions to the south. This catapulted Jinan from just another city to a major stop along one of the most lucrative trading routes in the country.

Baotou SpringNowadays, water still plays a crucial role in Jinan, as its 72 springs continue to provide a tranquil space where locals can indulge in a relaxing slice of nature. Baotou Spring, Black Tiger Spring, Five Dragon Pool, and Pearl Spring are regarded as the finest of the springs, and are popular tourist attractions in the city. In particular, Baotou Spring was described by the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) as “the number one spring under Heaven”.

Most of the city’s springs feed into the shimmering Daming Lake, the largest lake in Jinan and one of its major landmarks. The lake itself contains nine small islands and is surrounded by a scenic park, replete with historical buildings and verdant gardens. Of particular interest is the Moon-lit Pavilion, which is linked via bridge to a large hall. This hall was once connected to the outer city by a secret escape tunnel constructed by military governor Han Fuju. It provided the perfect retreat if the city was under siege, and also a fantastic shortcut to the lake!

Alongside these natural and historical delights, Jinan is also heralded as the gastronomic centre of Shandong province. The local cuisine, known as Lu or Shandong-style cuisine, is celebrated as one of the Eight Great Culinary Traditions of Chinese Cooking. The style in Jinan is considered to be emblematic of Lu cuisine, and has heavily influenced modern favourites like Beijing-style cuisine. It’s well-known for its use of flavourful broths, perfect for a wintry evening or a cool spring morning!

[1] Jurchen Jin Dynasty (1115-1234): Led by the Jurchen clan, who were of Manchu descent and controlled most of northern China but were ultimately defeated by the rising Mongol Empire. Not to be confused with the imperial Jin Dynasty (265-420).

[2] The Grand Canal: It is the longest canal in the world and starts in Beijing, passing through the provinces of Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang before eventually terminating in the city of Hangzhou. It links the Yellow River to the Yangtze River and the oldest parts of it date back to the 5th century BC, although most of its construction took place during the Sui Dynasty (581-618).

Mount Song

Mount Song01

Rising up at the heart of Henan province, Mount Song ranks as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. Its location in relation to the other five mountains means it is often referred to as Zhongyue or the “Central Mountain”. These mountains are known simply as the Five Great Mountains or the Five Great Sacred Mountains because they achieved a profoundly spiritual status during the Warring States Period (c. 476-221 BC), long before Confucianism, Taoism, or Buddhism had taken an important role in Chinese religious belief. In many ways, the mysticism imbued within these mountains pre-dates modern religion, and they unsurprisingly remain a source of fascination for tourists from across the globe.

The mountain range itself rests just outside of the city of Dengfeng, approximately 80 kilometres (50 mi) from the provincial capital of Zhengzhou, and can be separated into two major peaks: Mount Shaoshi and Mount Taishi. In total, it stretches for a whopping 70 kilometres (43 mi) from east to west and is made up of 72 separate peaks, with its summit towering in at 1,500 metres (4,900 ft.) in height. When it comes to tourism, the range has been conveniently divided into three sections: the Shaolin Temple Scenic Area, home of the Shaolin Temple; the Zhongyue Scenic Area, named after the ancient Zhongyue Temple; and the Songyang Scenic Area, where you’ll find Songyang Academy.

Mount Song02Altogether they represent a wonderland of lush valleys, deep caves, shimmering lakes, rippling waterfalls, and historic temple complexes. Arguably the most famous of these is the 1,500-year-old Shaolin Temple, which is dedicated to the Chan (Zen) sect of Buddhism and heralded as the birthplace of Shaolin Kung-Fu. The colossal impact that this temple has had on the history of Buddhism and martial arts meant it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010, along with the nearby Pagoda Forest. Nowadays, martial artists and tourists from all walks of life flock to the temple to admire its elegant buildings and marvel at its daily Wushu Kung-Fu performances.

The Pagoda Forest itself is equally as impressive, being the largest of its kind in China. It contains over 240 intricately decorated towers, all of different shapes and sizes, the oldest of which date all the way back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907). Yet the name “Pagoda Forest” can be somewhat misleading, since it is not a forest and the buildings aren’t actually pagodas! They are more like tombs or monuments, since each one was constructed to commemorate the death of an abbot or famous monk from the Shaolin Temple.

Zhongyue Temple in the Zhongyue Scenic Area carries a similar, if not more remarkable, historical pedigree. Dating all the way back to the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC), it is one of the oldest Taoist temples in China and is largely regarded as the most well-preserved ancient building among any on the Five Great Mountains. However, the scenic area is also home to two lesser-known delights: the Luya Waterfall and the Gaocheng Astronomical Observatory. The Astronomical Observatory was originally built by the astronomer Guo Shoujing during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and, at the stately age of 700 years, it is the oldest of its kind in China. It serves as living proof that, even in ancient times, people would still look to the stars for guidance!

Mount Song 03As with the other two scenic areas, the Songyang Scenic Area is centred on an ancient building of undeniable prestige. Dating back to the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–535), the Songyang Academy is heralded as one of the Four Great Academies of ancient China. Famous Confucian scholars such as Sima Guang and Cheng Yi would travel for miles simply to give lectures at this venerable establishment. At its height during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), it housed hundreds of students and boasted a library complete with over 2,000 books! The nearby Songyue Pagoda, which was also built during the Northern Wei Dynasty, is the oldest surviving brick pagoda in China.

If you want to fully appreciate all of the wonderful attractions that Mount Song has to offer, you’ll need to set aside at least two days for in-depth exploration. There are a number of small towns in the surrounding area offering accommodation and, to the west of the Shaolin Temple, there is even a village embedded halfway up a cliff! The village of Sanhuang has become famous for its precarious position, and is a popular rest stop for hikers traveling up the mountain. Just be sure not to look down!