Mount Tai

Through misty climes and dense forests the emperors of old would navigate Mount Tai, making the harrowing climb in order to offer sacrifices to the gods. For nearly 3,000 years, it has been a hallowed and sacred place. As the Eastern Mountain of China’s Five Great Mountains, it is often regarded as the foremost of the five. East was believed to be the holiest point since it was the direction from which the sun and the moon would rise, leading it to be associated with birth and renewal. There is even an old Chinese proverb which states: “If Mount Tai is stable, so is the entire country”. While the mountain range’s natural beauty is undeniable, its cultural importance is immeasurable. As early as 1987, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Archaeological evidence from the nearby Dawenkou site indicates that the area was settled and may have been a place of worship as early as the Neolithic Period (c. 8500-2100 BC). By the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 BC), it was firmly believed to be the home of powerful spirits that could influence the weather, the harvest, and the prosperity of any hopeful dynasty. However, it wasn’t until the Zhou Dynasty (c. 1045-256 BC) that it became the site of highly ritualised ceremonies, during which feudal lords would make sacrifices of food and decorative jade items. Many of these sacrifices would be buried on the mountain, so be sure to keep your eye out for any precious artefacts whilst you’re hiking!

Mount TaiThese rituals reached a peak during the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC), when Qin Shi Huang conquered the warring states and became the First Emperor of a unified China. In 219 BC, he held a ceremony on the mountain’s summit where he proclaimed the unity of his empire. He paid tribute to Mount Tai using an imperial rite known as the Fengshan sacrifices. The “feng” or “heaven” part of the rite would take place on the summit, while the “shan” or “earth” portion would be made at the base. In this way, the emperor paid homage to both heaven and earth in what was considered one of the most important imperial rituals in history. At the end of the ceremony, an inscription would be carved marking the event and the supposed attainment of the “great peace”.

By the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), Mount Tai was so highly regarded that it was believed to be the place where the souls of the deceased returned for judgement. Yet, in spite of the mountain’s significance, the Fengshan ritual was carried out at very rare intervals. From the Han Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty (618-907), it was only performed on seven separate occasions. After all, mountain climbing may seem hard now, but imagine trying to do it over a thousand years before the invention of hiking boots! Emperors would have to climb a flight of 6,660 steps, which winds its way passed fourteen archways and four pavilions, all decked out in traditional Chinese grandeur and seamlessly incorporated into the natural landscape. The summit itself is known as Jade Emperor Peak and is a breath-taking 1,545 metres (5,069 ft.) tall.

As time went on, Mount Tai’s holiness manifested not only in the imperial inscriptions, but also in a collection of 1,800 stone tablets and 22 temples that can be found throughout the mountain range today. Most famous of these is the Dai Temple at the southern foot of the mountain, which is dedicated to the God of Mount Tai and was originally built during the Qin Dynasty. Its architecture is largely considered to be a prototype of the imperial palace style and its design greatly influenced the construction of other major palace structures in China, such as the Forbidden City in Beijing and the Confucius Temple in Qufu.

The temple itself is made up of five major halls and numerous satellite buildings. Its star attraction is a Taoist painting known as “The God of Mount Tai Making a Journey”, which was completed in 1009 and is widely regarded as a masterpiece of traditional Chinese art. This epic mural is over 3 metres (10 ft.) high and 62 metres (203 ft.) long, extending across the eastern, western, and northern walls of the Palace of Heavenly Blessings. This makes it roughly the same height as an African elephant and approximately 15 times the length of an anaconda!

While the God of Mount Tai was arguably the mountain’s central spiritual figure in early Chinese history, he was swiftly overtaken in popularity during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) by his daughter, the Lady of Mount Tai. She is often known by her alternate name of Bixia Yunjun or “Goddess of the Colourful Clouds” and the Azure Cloud Temple was erected in her honour during the Song Dynasty (960-1279).

Both of these temple complexes boast a myriad of ancient trees, which attest to the intermingling of man-made and natural elements on Mount Tai. In particular, there is one pagoda tree that is approximately 1,300 years old, and six cypresses that are over 2,000 years of age! With 72 caves, 130 streams, 72 springs, and a staggering 64 waterfalls, Mount Tai is a paradise for nature lovers. After spending a day hiking up its verdant slopes, you’ll understand why ancient people believed it was blessed by the gods!

Harbin

Venture into China’s bitterly cold northeast and, resting on the south bank of the Songhua River, you’ll find the aptly named “Ice City”. Harbin, the capital of Heilongjiang province, is famed for its frosty winters and spectacular ice festivals. During the winter months, temperatures can drop to as low as −40 °C (−40 °F) and the Songhua River regularly freezes over with ice that can be up to one metre (3 ft.) deep! In spite of this somewhat inhospitable weather, Harbin remains the cultural and economic centre of not only Heilongjiang province but also Northeast China in general. Since the shape of Heilongjiang supposedly resembles that of a swan, Harbin is often affectionately referred to as “the pearl on the swan’s neck”.

Historically speaking, it is a relatively new city set in a region that was once known as Manchuria, which was ruled by the Manchu people. Its name, which was originally a Manchu word meaning “a place for drying fishing nets”, is a testament to the fact that it was once just a quaint fishing village. It wasn’t until 1898 that plans were drawn up to develop this small settlement into a major city. The Russian Empire, which was in the process of financing the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway, wanted to use the city as a base in northeast China to aid with the administration of the railway.

When it was initially established, the city became home to an overwhelming majority of Russian immigrants, who exerted a powerful influence over its culture, architecture, and cuisine. During the Russian Revolution of 1917, refugees flocked to Harbin and, at one point, it had the largest Russian population of any city outside of the Soviet Union. On August 25th 1945, the city came under the control of the Soviet Army, who eventually handed power over to the People’s Liberation Army in April of 1946. In this way, Harbin became the first large city to come under the jurisdiction of the Chinese Communist Party.

While much of the Russian-style architecture has tragically been replaced, there are a number of well-preserved exceptions that have earned the city the nickname the “Oriental Moscow”. The most magnificent remnant of Harbin’s multi-cultural past is undeniably Saint Sophia Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church located in the central district of Daoli. This elegant work of Byzantine-style architecture was originally built in 1907 and was eventually converted into a museum in 1997. What could be better than learning about the history of Harbin from inside one of its most venerable historic buildings?

Other areas of architectural interest include Harbin’s Old Quarter, which contains many buildings of the Baroque and Byzantine-style that were built by the Russians during the 19th century, and Zhongyang Avenue, which is an eclectic mixture of stunning Baroque and Byzantine facades, traditional Jewish architecture, Russian eateries, French boutiques, American fast food chains, and Japanese restaurants. While many of the buildings in the Old Quarter are unfortunately falling into disrepair, Zhongyang Avenue is still a lively tourist hotspot that comes alive at night. During the summer, the street is lined with beer gardens that are sure to tempt the thirsty shopper!

However, when Saint Sophia Cathedral and the other foreign edifices were initially built, many local Chinese people felt that it damaged the city’s feng shui. In response, they donated money to fund the construction of Jile Temple or “Temple of Bliss”, which was eventually completed in 1924. This spectacular work of traditional Chinese architecture is the largest Buddhist temple in Heilongjiang province. Alongside these Christian and Buddhist houses of worship, there is also the Harbin Jewish New Synagogue, which contains exhibitions on the history of the 20,000 Jews who once lived in Harbin.

harin ice festival01Fascinating though these historical buildings undoubtedly are, Harbin’s greatest draw is the International Ice and Snow Festival, which has been held annually since 1985. During the winter months, the city is decorated with stunning ice and snow sculptures carved by artisans from across the globe. The two main exhibition areas are Sun Island and “Ice and Snow World”. While Sun Island predominantly showcases the finest snow sculptures of the festival, Ice and Snow World is a miniature functioning city made from ice, which is illuminated at night to create a spectacular explosion of colour. Every year, over 15,000 people work tirelessly for 16 days in order to bring this winter wonderland to life!

If the thought of careering down an ice slide or winter-swimming in the Songhua River gives you the chills, there’s always the Harbin International Beer Festival, which is held every August. In terms of capacity and scale, it is technically larger than Germany’s Oktoberfest, and features live musical acts, entertaining performances, and, of course, plenty of beer!

Shandong Province

Temple of Confucius

Shandong province is best known as the birthplace of two of the greatest philosophers in Chinese history: Confucius and Mencius. The province itself played a pivotal role in the establishment of Chinese civilisation along the Yellow River and is home to some of the most influential religious sites in the country. From the ancient Buddhist temples near Jinan to the lofty heights of sacred Mount Tai, Shandong’s historical and spiritual pedigree is undeniable. So, if you’re looking for enlightenment, you’ve come to the right place!

The province itself can be roughly divided into two distinct segments: the inland zone and the Shandong Peninsula. Within the inland zone, the North China Plain was once home to a succession of Neolithic cultures, including the Houli (6500–5500 BC), the Beixin (5300–4100 BC), the Dawenkou (4100–2600 BC), the Longshan (3000–2000 BC), and the Yueshi (1900–1500 BC). Inscriptions found on clay pots that were unearthed at the Dawenkou site are believed to be the earliest examples of written language in the country!

By the Spring and Autumn Period (c. 771-476 BC), Shandong had risen to become a centre for political and military activity. During the Warring States Period (c. 476-221 BC), it was separated into two autonomous territories: the State of Lu, where Confucius and Mencius originated from; and the State of Qi, which was the larger and more powerful of the two. Since the State of Qi controlled the Shandong Peninsula, it swiftly became an influential hub for early maritime trade. From the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD) onwards, Shandong rose to become northern China’s focal maritime trading centre and was an indispensible contributor to the country’s development as an ancient civilisation.

Yet it wasn’t just the Chinese imperials who understood the value of this coastal province. In 1897, German troops landed in Shandong and the German government eventually forced the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) to sign a treaty that ceded access to Jiaozhou Bay and its islands. On top of this, Germany was also granted the right to construct a naval base in the city of Qingdao. Nowadays, this Germanic influence can be felt throughout the province and is particularly prevalent in Qingdao, where the internationally renowned Tsingtao Brewery is located. In fact, this link is so well-established that the Qingdao International Beer Festival is often referred to as Asia’s Oktoberfest!

While the Shandong Peninsula is now famed for its spectacular beach resorts, the western part of the province is dominated by the North China Plain and the centre is characteristically hilly, culminating in the magnificent Mount Tai complex. This has resulted in two geographically diverse regions that are each served by different climates, oscillating between humid continental and humid subtropical. Temperatures in the inland zone average at a chilly −4 °C (25 °F) in winter, but rise to a comfortable 28 °C (82 °F) in summer. By contrast, winter temperatures along the peninsula rarely drop below 0 °C (32 °F), and summer temperatures average at around 26 °C (79 °F).

With its geographical diversity, Shandong boasts attractions to suit every disposition! For the avid hiker, there’s the towering Mount Tai, one of China’s Five Great Mountains. According to the religion of Taoism, it is the most sacred site in the world and over 250 temples are scattered throughout its expanse. The mountain was deified as early as the Han Dynasty, and was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Alongside this spiritual behemoth, Mount Lao and Mount Kunyu also enjoy a venerable reputation as places of significant natural beauty.

As the ancestral home of both Confucius and Mencius, it goes without saying that Shandong is a haven for the historically inclined! The Temple of Confucius, the Cemetery of Confucius, and the Kong Family Mansion are all located in the city of Qufu and were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, while the temple and mansion of Mencius can be found in the city of Zoucheng. The province is also home to one of the oldest existing Great Walls in China: the Great Wall of Qi. It was originally built in 685 BC and many of its existing sections date back to 500 BC, making them over 2,000 years old!

That being said, sometimes all you want is a bit of rest and relaxation! Tourists flock to the provincial capital of Jinan every year to visit its 72 Famous Hot Springs, while Qingdao and Penglai are heralded as some of the province’s finest beach resorts. Not to mention, Shandong-style cuisine is ranked as one of the Eight Great Culinary Traditions of Chinese Cooking, so you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to spoiling yourself!

The Longmen Grottoes

Carved deep within the limestone rock-face of Mount Xiang and Mount Longmen, the Longmen or “Dragon’s Gate” Grottoes are regarded as one of the finest examples of Buddhist art in China. This colossal complex stretches along both banks of the Yi River and boasts over 2,300 caves, which contain more than 110,000 Buddhist statues, 60 stupas(1), and 2,800 stele(2) inscriptions. In 2000, its historical significance and undeniable aesthetic value meant it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its location, just 12 kilometres (8 mi) south of the city of Luoyang, is a telling clue as to how these magnificent grottoes came to be.

During the late 4th century, the Tuoba clan of the Xianbei people controlled much of northern China under the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–535). In 495, they made the bold decision to move their imperial capital from northern Pingcheng (modern-day Datong, Shanxi province) to Luoyang. After having masterminded the Yungang Grottoes near Datong, the Northern Wei aristocracy turned their attention toward the mountains near Luoyang. After all, there’s no sense in giving up the habit of a lifetime, particularly if that habit is financing lavish works of art! By the late 5th century, the first of the Longmen Grottoes had been carved.

While over 30% of the caves were constructed during the Northern Wei Dynasty, the complex wouldn’t reach its peak until the Tang Dynasty (618-907). It was during this time that the artistic style of the paintings and statuary within the caves radically changed, from the blocky and simplistic style typical of Indian Buddhist art to the refined and opulent designs that became characteristic of Chinese Buddhist art. In particular, this “Longmen style” is known for portraying the Buddha in the traditional flowing garments of a Chinese scholar.

Over time, this sophisticated form of Buddhist art spread throughout China, and had a wide-reaching influence across other Asian countries. Caves continued to be carved at Longmen right up until the Song Dynasty (960-1279), but its development was eventually halted due to internal warfare between the Jurcen-led Jin Dynasty (1115-1234) and the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Tragedy struck yet again during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), when the Japanese army looted the site and took many of the statues back to Japan. These relics are now mainly housed in Japanese museums.

Nowadays, the Longmen Grottoes are one of the most popular tourist attractions in China and provide a window into the history of Buddhism as it gradually rose to become one of the most prominent religions in the nation. While all of the caves have their own unique charm, there are a few that are usually singled out for special praise. After all, not all art is created equal! These exceptional areas of the complex are known as Guyang Cave, the Three Binyang Caves, Wanfo Cave, Yaofang Cave, and Fengxian Temple.

Guyang Cave was originally constructed under the orders of Emperor Xiaowen and is the oldest, as well as the largest, of its kind in the complex. Evidence suggests it was begun in the year 478, meaning that Emperor Xiaowen may have decided to start building the Longmen Grottoes long before he moved his capital to Luoyang. Talk about thinking ahead! Over time, the cave was filled with sculptures and inscriptions, all of which are conveniently accompanied by a record of the artist’s name, the date of construction, and the reason they were carved. Even in ancient times, it was important to make sure no one took credit for your hard work!

Not content to be outdone, Emperor Xiaowen’s son, Emperor Xuanwu, decided to construct three caves of his own, two dedicated to his father and one dedicated to his mother. These are known collectively as the Three Binyang Caves or separately as North, Middle, and South Binyang Caves. Of these, Middle Binyang Cave is the most well-known and widely celebrated for its artwork. At its centre, there is a statue of Shakyamuni(3) Buddha flanked by bodhisattvas(4), while the two side walls also each have a statue of Buddha with accompanying bodhisattvas. These are designed to represent the Buddhas of the past, present, and future.

While three Buddhas may sound like the magic number, Wanfo or “Ten Thousand Buddha” Cave contains over 15,000 statues of Buddha, the smallest of which is only 2 centimetres (0.79 in) in height! If the sight of so many Buddhas proves too much for you, the nearby Yaofang or “Medical Prescription” Cave is sure to cure what ails you. This cave is covered in over 140 inscriptions, which contain information on how to treat medical conditions ranging from the common cold right through to insanity!

Yet none of these caves compare to the spectacular Fengxian Temple. This colossal cave shrine was sponsored by Empress Wu Zetian, the first woman in Chinese history to have ruled as emperor. It contains a seated figure of Vairocana(5) Buddha that is over 17 metres (56 ft.) tall. To put that into perspective, it’s over 5 times the size of an African elephant! It is accompanied by eight other huge statues, including Vairocana’s disciples Kasyapa and Ananda. The sculptures within this cave shrine are considered emblematic of the Tang Dynasty style. Surrounded by murals, sculptures, and artwork beyond compare, it’s hard not to feel inspired after a trip to the Longmen Grottoes!

Notes:

1. Stupa: A hemispherical structure with a small interior designed for storing Buddhist relics and for private meditation.

2. Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

3. Shakyamuni: One of the titles of Gautama Buddha, the central figure and founder of the Buddhist faith. It is derived from the place named Sakya, which is where he was born.

4. Bodhisattva: The term literally means “one whose goal is awakening”. It refers to a person who seeks enlightenment and is thus on the path to becoming a Buddha. It can be applied to anyone, from a newly inducted Buddhist to a veteran or “celestial” bodhisattva who has achieved supernatural powers through their training.

5. Vairocana: Vairocana is a celestial buddha who is often interpreted as the Dharma Body of the historical Gautama Buddha, the central figure and founder of the Buddhist faith. Vairocana is also seen as the embodiment of the Buddhist concept of Emptiness.

The Shaolin Temple

The Shaolin Temple

Monks clad in fiery orange robes rushing through the bamboo thickets; stately sages with silvery beards meditating in opulent temples; the acrobatic leaps and flips of a well-choreographed fight; these are the scenes we’ve come to associate with Chinese Kung-Fu. As one of the oldest and most well-known martial arts styles in the world, it has inspired numerous novels, television shows, and movies, captivating the hearts and minds of people across the globe. Yet few people know that, deep within the countryside of Henan province, the place where Kung-Fu originated still continues to practice this venerable art.

The Shaolin Temple, also known as the Shaolin Monastery, is a 1,500-year-old temple complex located at the base of Shaoshi Peak on Mount Song in Dengfeng County. It is renowned as the birthplace of both the Chan (Zen) sect of Buddhism and Shaolin Kung-Fu. In other words, the monks quickly came to the conclusion that if you can’t solve your problem with peaceful meditation, it’s time to start using your fists instead! The temple’s profound historical significance meant it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.

The Shaolin Temple02The name “Shaolin Temple” literally means “Temple within the forests of Mount Shaoshi”. Perhaps not the most creative of names, but at least no one would forget where to find it! Historically speaking, the temple was originally built under the patronage of Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–535) in order to accommodate a Buddhist master named Buddhabhadra (Batuo), who had come from India to propagate Buddhist teachings in China. As the first abbot of the temple, he dedicated his life to translating Buddhist sutras into Chinese and preaching to his hundreds of followers.

While Buddhadhadra took a much gentler approach, another Indian monk was about to change the lives of the temple’s residents in a much more radical way! This monk, known as Bodhidharma (Da Mo), arrived at the temple sometime around the year 480. According to legend, he had trained his body rigorously as part of his religious practices, and was horrified to find the monks at the Shaolin Temple were so physically weak. He criticised them for their inability to defend themselves and he was unsurprisingly told to leave.

In an effort to prove his strength and dedication, he went to a nearby cave on Wuru Peak and meditated there for nine years. He allegedly spent so much time staring at the cave’s walls that his shadow became imprinted on the rock-face! While the cave is open to the public, the ‘Wall-Facing Stone’ has since been removed and is now housed within the temple complex.

Impressed with his persistence and self-control, the other monks welcomed him back to the temple and he began training them in martial arts. From then onwards, he was honoured as the First Patriarch of Chan Buddhism. He was also responsible for teaching the Second Patriarch of Chan Buddhism, Dazu Huike, after Huike reputedly cut off his left arm to prove his devotion to the study of Buddhism. You could almost say Bodhidharma was forced to give Huike a helping hand! There are now two areas of the temple complex, known as the First Patriarch Temple and the Second Patriarch Temple, dedicated to Bodhidharma and Huike respectively.

Eventually the martial arts training that Bodhidharma bestowed on his followers would prove to be greatly advantageous. At the beginning of the 7th century, a small army of some 13 Shaolin monks were rumoured to have rescued the future Tang Dynasty (618-907) Emperor Li Shimin. In exchange, he showered the temple with land and wealth once he assumed power, allowing it to thrive as a centre for Kung-Fu. The complex reached its peak during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), when it was said to have housed over 3,000 monks!

Tragically this high point was soon met by decline on the collapse of the Ming Dynasty, when the rebel leader Li Zicheng ransacked the temple and forced many of the resident monks to abandon their posts. Popular media often tells the story of the five fugitive monks, who escaped from the temple when it was destroyed during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and spread Shaolin Kung-Fu across the world. While this story is largely regarded as fictional, the temple was often destroyed in such fashion throughout its history and monks did frequently leave to start martial arts schools elsewhere. Consequently, many of the buildings had to be reconstructed numerous times, meaning that the structures you see today are a result of successive renovation.

The temple complex itself is made up of seven main halls along its axis and seven other halls arranged around them. The first hall, known as Shanmen or “Mountain Gate” Hall, is marked by a large black tablet, which bears the inscription “Shaolin Temple” written in gold by the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty. At the centre of the complex, you’ll find the Mahavira Hall, which is where all daily prayers and important celebrations are held. Its floor is embedded with 50 small pits, which are supposedly the footprints left by monks as they practised Kung-Fu. Talk about leaving your mark!

shaolin-temple03As magnificent as these halls undeniably are, the highlight of the temple complex is undoubtedly the Pagoda Forest. This spectacular collection of over 240 towers, all of different shapes and sizes, sprawls across the mountain. Some are tall, some are short, some are cylindrical, others hexagonal. Since they all date back to a myriad of different time periods, from the Tang Dynasty right through to the Qing Dynasty, they represent a visual feast of diverse architectural styles.

That being said, the term “Pagoda Forest” may seem somewhat misleading, since it is not a forest and they are not pagodas! They are actually tombs or monuments erected to commemorate the death of an abbot or famous monk from the Shaolin Temple. A few notable pagodas were even dedicated to foreign monks, who made the harrowing journey simply to train at the temple. They serve as a testament to the Shaolin Temple’s undeniable allure throughout the ages.

Henan Province

henan01

Alongside the provinces of Shanxi and Shaanxi, Henan is widely regarded as the cradle of Chinese civilisation. Archaeological sites have shown that northern Henan was settled as early as the Neolithic Period (c. 8500-2100 BC), with cultural sites such as Yangshao and Longshan dating back over thousands of years. Near the modern-day city of Anyang, the ancient Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 BC) placed its capital at a site called Yin sometime around 1300 BC. It was in these ancient ruins that archaeologists discovered the Oracle Bones and Oracle Bone Script, the earliest known Chinese writing system in history. Over time, three of Henan’s cities (Luoyang, Anyang, and Kaifeng) would come to be ranked among the Seven Great Ancient Capitals of China. Yet don’t be mistaken for thinking that Henan’s glory days are behind it! It still has plenty to offer in the way of stunning scenic spots and historical attractions.

When the Shang Dynasty fell to the Zhou Dynasty (c. 1045-256 BC), Yin (Anyang) lost its status as capital, but the cities of Henan were destined to make an epic comeback. Luoyang served as the imperial capital for the Eastern Zhou (c. 771-256 BC), Eastern Han (25-220 AD), Wei (220-265), Western Jin (265–316 AD), Northern Wei (386–535), and Later Tang (923-937) dynasties, while Kaifeng enjoyed the title throughout the Northern Song Dynasty (960–1127). Their strategic location as gateways between the North China Plain and the Huai River basin meant that these two cities played a key role in Chinese history even when they weren’t the official capitals. But, when it comes to Henan’s venerable history, it seems that the higher you climb, the harder you fall!

henan02
The Yellow River

Henan suffered profoundly during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), as widespread famine, drought, and destruction crippled the province. The after-effects of this devastating period resonated right up until the 1960s, resulting in the deaths of millions of people. Fortunately the region has since recovered, and is now one of the most popular provinces in China for tourism. Regional handicrafts such as the Junci porcelain of Yuzhou, the jade carvings of Zhenping, and the Tang Dynasty tricoloured pottery of Luoyang enjoy great renown throughout the country. The provincial capital of Zhengzhou is a major hub for rail transport, and the province remains one of the country’s main producers of silk. Like a phoenix, Henan has veritably risen out of the ashes!

The province benefits from a temperate climate, bordering on humid subtropical in the south and humid continental in the north. Winters can drop to a chilly −2 °C (28 °F), while temperatures rise to a comfortable 28 °C (82 °F) in summer. Most of the province is dominated by the North China Plain, with mountains rising in the west and the Yellow River cutting across the north. The magnificent Mount Song, one of China’s Five Great Mountains, towers over the eastern part of the province. This sacred mountain boasts a plethora of spectacular temples, the most famous of which is the Shaolin Temple.

The ancestors of China in the legend
The ancestors of China in the legend

Dating back over 1,500 years, the Shaolin Temple is dedicated to the Chan (Zen) sect of Buddhism and was the birthplace of Shaolin Kung-Fu. In 2010, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with its accompanying Pagoda Forest. Other Buddhist sites, such as the Longmen Grottoes and the White Horse Temple at Luoyang, have become popular tourist attractions and are some of the earliest examples of Buddhist architecture in the country.

Alongside the Shaolin Temple and the Longmen Grottoes, the ancient ruins of Yin, the Shang Dynasty capital, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006. From the mountain resort of Jigong to the colossal statue of the Spring Temple Buddha, you’ll find sites of major historical significance wherever you turn in Henan! And, if all that history becomes too taxing for you, you can always settle down to an evening performance of the celebrated Henan or Yu Opera.

 

Jiuzhaigou

Jiuzhaigou, the Valley of the Nine Fortified Villages, is a place as ethereal as its name suggests. This national park stretches over 720 square kilometres (278 sq. mi) of raw nature nestled deep within northern Sichuan province. As part of the Min Mountains, this reserve is renowned for its snow-capped peaks, dense forests, thundering waterfalls, and richly coloured lakes. Its superlative scenic beauty and unparalleled biodiversity meant it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 and a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 1997. In short, this unearthly paradise earned more accolades in five years than most people get in their lifetime!

The park is located approximately 913 kilometres (567 mi) from the provincial capital of Chengdu, and is so-named for the nine villages that run along the length of its main valleys. Only seven of the nine remain populated today, and are known as Heye, Shuzheng, Zechawa, Rexi, Jianpan, Panya, and Yana. They are home to both the Tibetan and Qiang ethnic minorities, who have inhabited the region for centuries and consider many of the scenic spots in the park to be holy.

Within their rich tapestry of folklore, many fascinating legends surround the mountains, woods, and pools that can be found throughout the park. According to one such Tibetan legend, the warlord god Dage was madly in love with the goddess Wunosemo, and so presented her with a beautiful magic mirror as a gift. However, one day, a jealous devil caused the goddess to drop the mirror to earth, where it shattered to form the 114 shimmering lakes that are considered the highlight of Jiuzhaigou.

Scientifically speaking, much of the park’s gullies and mountains were formed thanks to tectonic activity between the Qinghai-Tibet Plate and the Yangtze Plate, since it lies along the plates’ major fault-lines. It is constituted of three main valleys, Shuzheng, Rize, and Zechawa, which are arranged in a formation that resembles the letter Y. Its expanse is populated by a number of endangered animal species, including the giant panda, the golden snub-nosed monkey, Thorold’s deer, and the Duke of Bedford’s vole. Although you’re unlikely to come face-to-face with a bashful panda, you’re sure to spot one of the park’s 140 native bird species, as the area is a haven for bird-watching.

Jiuzhaigou’s fowls may be fair, but they’re nothing compared to the park’s star attractions: the blue, green, and turquoise-coloured lakes that are dotted throughout its valleys. Many of them were originally formed by glacial activity, but then dammed by falling rocks. Some of them have a high concentration of calcium carbonate, which results in them being so crystal clear that their bottoms are visible even at high depths. Their rich colouring and unmatched transparency make them undoubtedly some of the most breath-taking bodies of water in the world.

hero-jiuzhaigou
The Film ‘Hero’

It is recommended to visit the park during autumn, when the pools are at their most translucent and perfectly reflect the rich golden hues of the autumnal foliage. Rize Valley is said to contain the widest variety of sites, and so is typically visited first. The Primeval Forest, a stretch of ancient woodland that has been preserved for centuries, offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains, while you may recognise Arrow Bamboo Lake as the set of the martial arts epic Hero.

Pearl Shoal is the source of the magnificent Pearl Shoal Falls, which are said to look like a string of pearls cascading down the mountainside. Cyan-hued Panda Lake is reputedly the place where local pandas come to drink and empties out via the Panda Falls into Five Flower Lake, Rize Valley’s star attraction, which is so piercingly clear that you can still see the ancient trunks of fallen trees floating in its turquoise waters.

Second on the itinerary is usually Zechawa Valley, which is approximately the same length but rises to a higher altitude. It boasts the crescent-shaped Long Lake, the highest, largest, and deepest lake in Jiuzhaigou. According to local folklore, a monster supposedly haunts its depths, so be sure to keep an eye out when standing by its banks! The valley’s mythical status doesn’t end there, as its shimmering Five-Colour Pond was rumoured to be the place where the goddess Wunosemo would wash her hair.

Not to be outdone, Shuzheng Valley possesses a number of legendary sites, although their origin stories are slightly less magical. For example, the largest lake in the valley, Rhinoceros Lake, was reputedly so-named because a Tibetan monk was once riding his rhinoceros through the valley when he became so entranced by the area’s beautiful scenery that he accidentally rode his rhinoceros directly into the lake! Perhaps he was distracted by the glorious Nuorilang Falls, the widest highland waterfall in China and one of the icons of Jiuzhaigou.

However, if you want to really connect with the spirituality of Jiuzhaigou, you’ll need to visit Zharu Valley, which branches off to the southeast of Shuzheng Valley. Its main hike follows the pilgrimage path of the local Tibetan Buddhists, who circumnavigate the sacred Zha Yi Zha Ga Mountain as part of a religious ritual. The hike offers stunning panoramic views of the natural scenery, a chance to learn more about Jiuzhaigou’s unique biodiversity, and an insight into its fascinating local culture.

Fenghuang Ancient Town

The rural county of Fenghuang can be roughly split into two districts: New Town and Old Town. While the new town is simply a residential area, the old town is something altogether more enchanting. Fenghuang Ancient Town was officially established during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), but its history can be traced back as far as the Spring and Autumn Period (c. 771-476 B.C.). Rising at the base of misty mountains and facing the rippling Tuo River, its location is known for its excellent feng shui 1.

The name “Fenghuang” literally translates to mean “Phoenix”, which in Chinese tradition is associated with good fortune and longevity. According to local legend, the town is so-named because, one day, two phoenixes were flying overhead when they paused to admire the town’s beauty and were reluctant to leave. If it’s enough to catch the attention of a mythical creature, it must be one magical place! For over 300 years, the ancient streets, alleyways, and houses of Fenghuang have been exquisitely preserved.

Its most unique feature is undoubtedly its wooden diaojiaolou 2, which perch delicately over the river. The incorporation of the river into the town’s layout demonstrates how important it is to the villagers to live in harmony with nature. It is not uncommon to see women washing clothes or men casting their fishing nets into its expanse, much like they have done for centuries. Boatmen wait by the banks, offering visitors the chance to enjoy a scenic cruise up and down the river.

The diaojiaolou are also the first hint towards the town’s multi-ethnicity. Unlike other cities and towns in China, which are predominantly populated by the Han Chinese ethnic group, the vast majority of Fenghuang’s population is made up of Miao and Tujia people. Miao traditions, architecture, and culture dominate the town, from their elegant traditional dress to their intricate handicrafts. Shimmering silver jewellery, vibrant batik 3 cloth, homemade tie-dye clothes, and numerous other local specialities are sold in Fenghuang’s local shops.

Yet the Miao weren’t always the peaceful villagers that you see today! Fenghuang was once the centre of numerous Miao rebellions, which were so fierce that it prompted the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) to build the Southern Great Wall. This wall still stands on the outskirts of the town, and is now a popular tourist attraction. Other local attractions of note include: Huang Si Qiao Castle, one of the most well-preserved castles from the Tang Dynasty (618-907); Longevity Palace; Chao Yang Palace; and the Heavenly King Temple.

The former residence and tomb of the renowned Chinese writer Shen Congwen is arguably the most popular site in the town. In fact, his novel The Border Town, a romance written in 1934 and set in Fenghuang County, is believed to be what catapulted Fenghuang Ancient Town to national fame. It appears that Fenghuang’s residents were truly blessed with good fortune, as it was also the hometown of Xiong Xiling, who was once the premier (1913-1914) of the Republic of China (1912-1949) , and Huang Yongyu, a celebrated painter in the traditional Chinese style.

The playful bubbling of the river; the feel of flagstone steps worn smooth by thousands of feet; the sweet smell of freshly cooked food, dotted with locally grown chillies as red as rubies; these are the simple pleasures that this picturesque town has to offer. Surrounded by primeval forests and flanked by shadowy mountains, it is a place lost in time and resplendent in its timelessness.

1. Feng Shui: This theory is based on the premise that the specific placement of certain buildings or objects will bring good luck.

2. Diaojiaolou: These are two-storey wooden dwellings that are suspended on stilts, with the ground floor being used for storage and the upper floors being used as living spaces.

3. Batik: A cloth-dying process whereby a knife that has been dipped in hot wax is used to draw a pattern onto the cloth. The cloth is then boiled in dye, which melts the wax. Once the wax has melted off, the cloth is removed from the boiling dye. The rest of the cloth will be coloured by the dye but the pattern under the wax will have remained the original colour of the cloth.

Tibet Autonomous Region

tamdrok-lake

Often described as “the Roof of the World” and “the Land of Snows”, the Tibet Autonomous Region has a certain ethereal allure that has enticed foreign travellers for decades. Yet, beautiful though the region undoubtedly is, it is also shrouded in controversy. Although Tibet was officially a vassal state under the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), it achieved independence in 1912 and wasn’t reincorporated into China proper until 1951. It was fully open to tourists for a couple of decades, but nowadays non-Chinese visitors are required to apply for a separate Tibet Entry Permit and sign up to a package tour before they are allowed to enter Tibet, as it is still considered a politically unstable region. Occasionally, during times of social unrest, it is even closed to foreign tourists entirely.

tibet02The Tibet Autonomous Region is located on the Tibetan Plateau, which is the largest and highest plateau on earth. With an average altitude of over 4,500 metres (15,000 ft.), it’s no wonder that it has the lowest population density of any region in China. It is renowned for its towering snowy mountains, the most famous of which is the magnificent Mount Everest, which marks the border between Tibet and Nepal. The climate is notoriously harsh, with bitterly cold winters and biting gale-force winds. Winter temperatures regularly drop to a chilling −19 °C (−2 °F) and plummet even further during the night. However, thanks to the low humidity and dry climate, Tibetan summers are generally mild and pleasant, with average temperatures of around 30 °C (85 °F). Therefore it’s usually recommended you plan your visit from June to October, so as to avoid the inhospitable winter months.

Approximately 90% of the population in Tibet is comprised of ethnically Tibetan people, with other ethnic groups such as the Han Chinese, Hui, Monba, and Lhoba people making up the other 10%. The Tibetan people are celebrated for their rich cultural heritage, most notably their dedication to the indigenous religions of Tibetan Buddhism and Bön. Bön is a shamanistic(1) and animistic(2) faith that is widely considered to be the first known religion in Tibet. As Buddhism from India disseminated across Tibet and rose to popularity, it gradually adopted rituals and concepts from Bön, which eventually contributed to the development of Tibetan Buddhism.

bhikkhu03Nowadays Tibetan Buddhism is the more popular of the two, and its most influential branch is known as the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect, which was established sometime during the 17th century. This is the sect to which the Dalai Lama belongs, and there are numerous celebrated monasteries dedicated to it, including the Drepung Monastery and the Sera Monastery. From the colourful prayer flags that adorn every household to the decorative prayer wheels outside each temple, the piety of the Tibetan people is palpable wherever you go.

Tibet is renowned for its religious scroll paintings or thangka, which vividly depict lifelike images of Buddhist deities. In fact, many aspects of Tibetan culture revolve around religion, including their beautiful folk songs, dances, and operas. These wonderful spectacles are normally performed in groups during festival occasions and can last for several days, with the central themes being the peoples’ devotion to religion, their love of the land, and the brave deeds of their ancestors. Annual events such as the Monlam Prayer Festival and the Butter Lamp Festival are the ideal place to connect with this vibrant aspect of Tibetan culture.

Religious sites in Tibet are now popular tourist attractions, although it is important to always remember that these are active houses of worship and must be respected as such. The Potala Palace in the capital of Lhasa is undoubtedly the most spectacular and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Other places of exceptional beauty include Jokhang Temple, one of the region’s holiest sites, and the Norbuglingka or “Jewel Palace”, which acted as the traditional summer residence for the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama’s exile in 1959.

The tranquillity of temples may appeal to some, but others travel to Tibet for far more adventurous reasons! The area is a popular centre for mountaineering, and places such as the glittering Yamdrok Lake, the colossal Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, and the North Face of Mount Everest have attracted adrenaline junkies from across the globe. With the high altitude and low oxygen count, Tibet represents one of the most challenging arenas for adventure tourism. So, whether you’re a spiritualist or a thrill-seeker, be sure to guard against altitude sickness and take plenty of sunscreen. Tibet may be breath-taking, but you don’t want it to literally take your breath away!

Notes:

1. Shamanism: The practice of attempting to reach altered states of consciousness in order to communicate with the spirit world and channel energy from it into the real world. This can only be done by specialist practitioners known as shaman.

2. Animism: The belief that all non-human entities, including animals, plants, and even inanimate objects, possess a spiritual essence or soul.

Guangdong Province

In China, the province of Guangdong has long been synonymous with commerce and prosperity. Since its time as a major trading hub along the Maritime Silk Road, it has flourished into one of the most populous and wealthiest regions in the world. In fact, its population is so huge that, if it was counted as a separate nation, it would rank among the top twenty largest countries by population in the world! Like the floods of people who flock to New York to pursue the American Dream, millions of people immigrate to Guangdong every year to try and make their fortune. Since its long coastline fronts the South China Sea to the south and southeast, it remains one of the world’s most important centres for maritime trade.

The region, which was formerly known as Canton or Kwangtung, received interaction from foreign countries far earlier than other parts of China, thanks to its numerous bustling trading ports. This has led to Guangdong developing its own unique cultural identity, a perfect intermingling of Chinese and Western influences with a bit of local flair thrown in for good measure. The Pearl River Delta, a confluence of the Xi (West), Bei (North), and Dong (East) rivers, represents the cultural heart of the province, while the rest of Guangdong is characterised by its smooth, low hills.

Since it is one of the southernmost provinces, it benefits from a humid subtropical climate, with short, mild winters and long, hot summers. July temperatures sit at a sweltering average of between 28 to 30 °C (82 to 86 °F) and drop to a comfortable 13 to 16 °C (55 to 61 °F) in January. However, this glorious weather does come with a catch! The rainy season, which lasts from mid-April to mid-October, is particularly fierce, and from July to September the region is frequently buffeted by typhoons. Therefore it’s recommended that you check the weather forecast carefully and regularly before planning your trip!

The population of Guangdong is made up predominantly of Han Chinese people, with small constituencies of Yao and Zhuang people dotted throughout various autonomous counties. However, the level of diversity within the Han ethnic group itself is astounding. Numerous subgroups of Han people dominate certain parts of the province, including the Tanka or Boat People, who generally live along rivers and the coast; the Teochew people, who inhabit an eastern coastal area known as Chaoshan; the Hakka people, who can be found throughout eastern Guangdong; and the Cantonese people, the largest subgroup of them all. Each of these subgroups boasts their own language, culture, customs, festivals, and delicious styles of cuisine. So be sure to catch a performance of the famed Hakka Hill Songs, or perhaps indulge in an evening of Teochew Opera!

Not to mention, the local Canton-style cuisine is heralded as one of the Eight Great Culinary Traditions of Chinese Cooking. Since more Cantonese people immigrated to foreign countries than almost any other ethnic group in China, this style of cuisine is the most prevalent in Chinese restaurants throughout the world, and it is the one that most non-Chinese people are familiar with. It is characterised by its variety of fresh ingredients, minimal seasoning, and quick cooking techniques, with signature dishes like Sweet and Sour Pork and Chow Mein delighting palates across the globe. The Guangzhou International Food Festival, which is held in the provincial capital of Guangzhou during October or November every year, is the ideal place to sample some of the province’s delicacies.

Since Guangdong doesn’t draw the same kind of tourist crowds that many other provinces do, you’ll often find that you’ll have many of its excellent attractions all to yourself! From Zhaoxing Lake and the Seven Star Crags to Mount Danxia and Dinghu Mountain, nature lovers will be spoilt for choice in this lush, hilly region. For history buffs, there’s always the Foshan Ancestral Temple, which is dedicated to Beidi, the Northern God; the Sacred Heart Cathedral, one of the only churches in the world to be built entirely out of granite; and the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, which honours the politician Sun Yat-sen.

However, the magnificent Diaolou of Kaiping County are undoubtedly the province’s star attraction. These multi-storey watchtowers were first built during the early Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), but reached their peak popularity during the 1920s and 1930s. Originally there were more than 3,000 of these spectacular structures, but nowadays this number has dwindled to approximately 2,000. Their unusual blend of Chinese and Western architectural features make them unique among fortress-like buildings in China, and they were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. However, if all that sight-seeing sounds too exhausting, you can always take a leisurely cruise down the Pearl River instead!