Xinjiang Local Snacks

Much like the region’s cuisine, the local snacks in Xinjiang have a certain undeniable Central Asian flair that sets them apart from other delicacies in China. Since many of its cities were once powerful oasis towns along the Silk Road, the region has played host to a plethora of different ethnic groups and borrowed all of the finest features from their cooking styles. Thanks to bustling livestock markets and vibrant bazaars, the trading culture in Xinjiang’s cities is still palpable today and provides a unique insight into what the Silk Road may have been like. Vendors hawk anything from olives and freshly baked-bread to honey and some of the sweetest raisins you’ll ever taste. With the thick aroma of crushed spices and freshly roasted mutton wafting through the air, these markets are a veritable paradise for the senses.

Naan (馕)

naanAlternatively known as nan or nang, this delicious type of flatbread is popular throughout Central Asia and really attests to the region’s ethnic diversity. In Xinjiang, the Uyghur ethnic minority have become particularly dextrous at developing and cooking their own unique varieties of naan bread. The dough is first flattened by hand, curled at the edges, and then stamped with a spiked tool, which creates a laced pattern of holes and helps the bread to cook evenly. It is then sprinkled with a mixture of black onion seeds, sesame seeds, and chopped garlic to give the naan its characteristic flavour.

They are traditionally baked in a special clay oven known as a tandoor and watching them being cooked is a spectacle in of itself, as vendors reach deep into the fiery pit and literally slap the dough onto the walls of the oven! After just a few minutes of baking, the flatbread has turned a rich golden brown and is ready to eat. The size, shape, and seasoning of the naan may differ between cities and even vendors, but the result is always a soft, warm flatbread that tastes great as an accompaniment to a meal or simply as a hearty snack on the go.

Samsas (烤包子)

SamsasThese little parcels of spicy goodness are known throughout most of Central Asia as samosas, but are called samsas in Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Xinjiang. Unlike other styles of samosa, Xinjiang samsas are traditionally baked rather than fried, giving them a much fluffier texture. The dough used can be simple bread dough or layered pastry dough, which is then stuffed full of delicious filling.

Minced lamb and onions is the most popular combination, although variations include chicken, minced beef, cheese, potato, and pumpkin. The filling, as well as the general shape of the samsa, differs from vendor to vendor, so you’ll be spoilt for choice! They are traditionally cooked in a tandoor oven and are sold on the streets as a scrumptious snack. If you can’t get enough of these tasty little parcels, there are also larger versions available known as kumach, which are considered a meal in of themselves. Just try not to eat too many, or you’ll end up as round as the samsas!

Matang (麻糖)

matangMatang is another speciality of the Uyghur ethnic minority and comes in many incarnations, each one more delightful than the last! This sugary snack is said to have originated from the town of Hotan in southwest Xinjiang, which is famous for its thinly shelled walnuts. The traditional cooking process has been passed down in this region from generation to generation and utilises only the finest locally grown grapes. These grapes are boiled down into a sugary syrup, which is then mixed with crushed walnuts and left to boil for even longer. Once the mixture has achieved the right density, it is pressed into a mould, left to set, and then elaborately decorated with candied fruit. The result is a devilishly sweet and sticky treat that you’ll be happy to get stuck in your teeth!

Nowadays other varieties of matang use different types of nuts, including almonds and cashews, and honey instead of grape syrup. They range in flavour and texture from ones that are as soft and creamy as nougat to ones with a real toffee-like crunchiness. After you’ve asked the vendor how much you’d like, he’ll deftly cut off a sizeable chunk using his knife, chop it into bite-sized pieces, and weigh it on his scales before handing it over. Once you’ve had your first taste of this chewy treat, we’re sure you’ll go nuts for it!

Museles (穆塞莱斯酒)

MuselesSince grapes are abundant in Xinjiang, it goes without saying that wine is too! In fact, wine production has been an important part of the local economy in the city of Turpan since the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) and was celebrated by ancient Chinese poets as “Western nectar”. This type of wine, known as museles, was masterminded by the Uyghur ethnic minority and, although their Muslim faith prohibits them from drinking alcohol, they view this beverage more as a kind of medicine. With its pungent aroma and sweetly sour flavour, it’s sure to cure what ails you! Although nowadays many contemporary winemakers in China follow French methods of production, the Uyghur people have held on to their traditional wine-making process for centuries. In many villages throughout Xinjiang, the brewing of museles is a communal activity and usually marks the end of the grape harvest.

Locally grown grapes are first crushed by hand and strained using Uyghur atlas silk. The juice is then combined with an equal amount of water and a heaping helping of sugar, and is left to boil until it has halved in volume. Thereafter it is stored in ceramic urns and combined with a dizzying number of extra ingredients. These folk recipes vary between localities and can typically include goji berries, mulberries, sea buckthorn, saffron, cloves, and even raw, plucked pheasants, pigeon’s blood, and lamb meat! These animal parts are said to enhance the flavour and endow the wine with many of its medicinal qualities. So forget about hair of the dog; it’s time for wine of the pigeon! The wine is left to brew for about two months before being filtered, bottled, and stored. The result is a deep red grape-wine with a powerful musty aroma and a spiced taste, much like vermouth.

 

Taste some Xinjiang Local Snacks on our travel: Explore the Silk Road in China

 

Xinjiang Cuisine

xinjiang-snacks

As the largest autonomous region in China, Xinjiang boasts substantial contingencies of different ethnic groups and is well-known for its Central Asian flair. Its cities are dominated by the Uyghur ethnic minority, as well as several other Muslim groups such as the Hui and Dongxiang people, meaning the food is predominantly halal and there is a marked lack of pork compared to other parts of China. In many ways, the cuisine in Xinjiang differs from the rest of the country and is distinctly non-Chinese. Roasted mutton, thickly fragrant spices, and sugary sweet desserts take centre stage when it comes to its signature dishes.

Since many of the cities within Xinjiang were once oasis towns along the Silk Road, they felt the influence of other ethnic groups most profoundly and have cherry-picked features of their cuisine, incorporating techniques and flavours from the Tibetans, Mongolians, Persians, Turkish, and numerous other nationalities. These have all come together to form a stunning mosaic of Chinese, Central Asian, and Middle Eastern qualities. Liberal use of seasonings like cumin, chilli powder, cinnamon, garlic, and saffron sets Xinjiang cuisine apart from other styles throughout China. So you might want to keep a glass of milk handy, because we’re heading into spicy territory!

Dapanji (大盘鸡)

大盘鸡“Dapanji” literally means “Big Plate Chicken”, so it goes without saying what the signature ingredient of this dish is! It rose to popularity in Xinjiang during the 1990s, although its origins aren’t entirely clear. Several ethnic groups, including the Uyghur and Hui people, lay claim to its conception but popular belief states that it was invented in Shawan County of northern Xinjiang by an immigrant from Sichuan province, who liberally mixed hot chilli peppers into the dish in an attempt to recreate his home cuisine. After all, there’s nothing quite like a home-cooked meal!

The dish itself consists primarily of bite-sized pieces of chicken (usually with the bone in) and potatoes, which have been sautéed in a medley of spices and coarsely chopped vegetables before being simmered in broth. The required ingredients are numerous, and include bell peppers, onions, garlic, ginger, chilli peppers, ground cumin, star anise, ground Sichuan peppers, cooking oil, and occasionally soy sauce and beer. Imagine how long the chef’s shopping list must be! The result is a hearty, savoury, and mildly spicy casserole-like dish that is bursting with flavour. It is typically served with hand-pulled noodles or naan bread and is the ideal comfort food when you’re feeling peckish!

Lamb Kawap or Chuanr (烤羊肉串儿)

Lamb Kawap or ChuanrThis distinctly Uyghur dish is classified as a type of kebab. Small, sumptuous slices of lamb and tiny chunks of lamb fat are seasoned with chilli powder, salt, black pepper, and cumin before being skewered and roasted over a charcoal fire. As the meat is gently roasted, it is further sprinkled with a fragrant mixture of cumin seeds, dried red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, and sesame. Be careful not to get too close while they’re cooking, or the spicy powder might bring on a bout of sneezing!

Lamb is the meat of choice, but nowadays popular variations include chicken, beef, seafood, steamed buns, and even insects. Crunchy spiders and salty scorpions may be a little too adventurous for the average palate, but the juicy strips of lamb are sure to get your mouth watering. Each kebab is made to order and is usually served with a soft naan bread, making it the perfect lunchtime treat or just a cheeky snack on the go.

Polo (手抓饭)

poloAlternately named polo, polu, or simply Uyghur pilaf, this is a type of pilaf rice that originated from the Uyghur ethnic minority and really attests to the influence Central Asia has had on Xinjiang’s cuisine. The dish is made by first frying chopped carrots, onions, and mutton (or chicken) in oil until the vegetables are perfectly caramelised and the mutton is thoroughly cooked. Rice and water are then added, and the whole dish is steamed until the rice is cooked through and gives off a tantalising aroma. Sometimes raisins and dried apricots are scattered on top to give the dish an extra sugary tang.

The locally grown yellow carrots provide its characteristic sweetness, while the rice is deliciously buttery and the tender mutton adds a pleasant smack of saltiness. It takes a notoriously long time to cook, so most vendors will only serve it at lunchtime. This dish is so important to the region’s culture that there are even whole restaurants in Xinjiang dedicated to perfecting it. And, after you’ve tried it, we’re sure you’ll never say rice is too plain again!

Laghman (拉条子)

拉条子Like the Lanzhou Beef Noodles or lamian of Gansu province, the main ingredient of laghman or lengmen is hand-pulled noodles that are undeniably scrumptious. The dough is made from a simple mixture of flour, water, and salt, and then stretched into noodles by hand in a laboriously long and skilful process. From the outset, they have a distinctly different flavour from those found in other parts of China since they are made from wheat flour rather than rice flour.

A heaping helping of noodles are boiled until they are perfectly soft, and then topped with a rustic vegetable ragout typically made from bell peppers, eggplant, onions, chilli peppers, garlic, tomato, and any other vegetable that happens to be in season. This rich topping is made by simmering the vegetables in a pot full of meat stock and, if you’re lucky, may include a few meaty titbits. The thick texture of the noodles is perfectly complemented by this hearty sauce, making for a meal that is both filling and comforting.

 

Taste some authentic Xinjiang Cuisine on our travel: Explore the Silk Road in China

 

The Turpan Karez Water System

Turpan Karez Water System

In the language of the Uyghur ethnic minority, the word “karez” means “well”, so it should come as no surprise that the karez water system is made up almost entirely of wells! It’s located in the Turpan Depression, the second lowest depression in the world, and is made up of a series of vertical wells that channel water from the base of the Tian Shan Mountains and the Flaming Mountains into a system of underground canals that eventually resurface in the city of Turpan and become part of its irrigation system. It depends upon melted snow that has trickled down from the ice-capped mountains and takes advantage of the downward slope created by the Turpan Depression, which exploits gravitational force to propel the water through the canals. This provides a stable water source regardless of season. We’re sure you’ll all agree that it’s a very well thought out system!

The canals are predominantly underground and the surface canals are heavily sheltered by trees on either side in an attempt to prevent evaporation in the unforgivingly hot climate of Turpan. At certain points, there are entry tunnels that provide locals with direct access to the underground canals in order to get water for themselves. The average karez is about 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) long, with the longest being about 30 kilometres (19 mi) and the shortest being just 30 metres (98 ft.). Perhaps the most ingenious feature of the karez is that it effectively prevents pollution and it requires no pumps or equipment to move the water.

Similar water systems known as qanats became popular in Persia and the Middle East around about 800 BC. It is not known exactly how the Turpan people came upon the technology and the know-how to build the karez water system, but the most likely explanation is that it originated from Persia via the Silk Road. Miraculously, this intricate water system was dug out by hand using simple tools, with only buckets and draft animals to help dredge up the dirt. The oldest karez date back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC– 220 AD), although most of them were masterminded during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

Turpan Karez Water System 03

This system was crucial to Turpan’s success as an oasis town along the Silk Road, as it enabled the town to support large quantities of traders, caravans, and horses who needed to replenish their supplies as they skirted the hostile Taklamakan Desert to the southwest. Had it not been for the local people’s ingenuity, the town may have been abandoned and swept under the sands of time long ago. Not to mention, it is this water system that enables the city to produce some of the juiciest grapes and sweetest raisins in all of China! Nowadays the nearby Turpan Water Museum is entirely dedicated to demonstrating how the karez water system works and showing, through information and various artefacts, its historical importance to the region.

Turpan Karez Water System 05Over 1,100 wells still remain and the system boasts a total length of over 5,000 kilometres (3,100 mi), making it nearly twice as long as the Golden Gate Bridge! That being said, only about 300 wells are still active today. Occasionally you might catch locals relaxing in them, as they function as natural air conditioners and provide the perfect way to escape the scorching heat.

 

 

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Zhangye Danxia Landform

Danxia Landforms, named after Mount Danxia in Guangdong province, are stunning geological formations that are unique to China. They were formed when red sandstone and other minerals were deposited by rivers over a period of about 24 million years. These deposits settled into distinct layers and, after another 15 million years, faults in the earth created by tectonic plate movement caused them to become exposed. Over another few millions of years, they were moulded into strange shapes by weathering and erosion, resulting in the unusual landforms that we find today. Yet the ones near Zhangye are arguably the most spectacular as, rather than just being made up of fiery red sandstone, the hills are a flurry of vibrant colours that resemble a living watercolour painting. For this reason, they have earned the nickname the “Rainbow Mountains”.

Nowadays the Zhangye Danxia Landform Geological Park is the best place to get to grips with this alien terrain. It’s located at the northern foothills of the Qilian Mountains, which only serve to amplify the scenic quality of this magnificent place. The Linze Scenic Area just 30 kilometres (19 mi) west of Zhangye forms the core of the park and is the most popular area, exhibiting the famous “layer cake” hills whose perfect stripes of colour resemble a well-made trifle. Just don’t go trying to take a bite out of them! The Binggou Scenic Area is not quite as popular or as well developed for tourism, but rests on the northern bank of Liyuan River and offers unique, isolated views for those more adventurous hikers. From the shimmering lakes and bubbling brooks to the extraordinary shapes and colours of the rippling hills, the Zhangye Danxia Landform is a work of art that you can literally walk on.

Watch the video about Danxia Landform:

 

Make your dream trip to the colourful Danxia come true on our travel: Explore the Silk Road in China and Explore “The Good Earth” in Northwest China

Crescent Lake

Nestled deep within the Gobi Desert, about 6 kilometres (4 mi) south of Dunhuang, lies an oasis blanketed with such lush grasses and brimming with such shimmering waters that one could easily mistake it for a mirage. It has supposedly existed for over 2,000 years and was given the name Yueyaquan or “Crescent Lake” during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) thanks to its characteristic crescent-moon shape. In its heyday, it played a focal role as one of the major rest stops along the ancient Silk Road. One can only begin to imagine the number of faces, wares, and stories this lake has born witness to in its lifetime.

Crescent Lake buildingIts auspicious location and low altitude means that sand from the dunes, which surround it on all sides, are carried over the lake by cross-winds rather than falling into it. This has saved the lake from becoming smothered and allowed it to survive for so many years. According to legend, the trees around the lake have never wilted or died, although perhaps that’s just a tall tale! It is currently 218 metres (715 ft.) long from east to west and 54 metres (177 ft.) wide from north to south, although it tragically shrank in the 1990s and had to be partially refilled by the local government in 2006. Nowadays, as in ancient times, visitors flock to the area to marvel at the surrounding sand dunes, visit the lake’s pagoda, go dune-surfing, and enjoy a spot of camel riding. Just don’t push the camels too hard, or they might give you the hump!

Crescent Lake is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the Silk Road in China

Xiabanliao

xiabanliao village

The sleepy village of Xiabanliao, located just southwest of Tianluokeng village and Shuyang Town, has been the home of the Liu clan for twenty-five generations. And, when you take in the lush greenery of the surrounding mountains and listen to the soft bubbling of nearby brooks, you’ll understand why they’ve stayed for so long! Yet Xiabanliao isn’t just your ordinary Chinese village; it houses one of the most magnificent architectural wonders the country has to offer.

The Tulou of Fujian are huge earthen fortresses that were designed to protect inhabitants from bandits. They have enjoyed great fame in recent years due to their unique appearance and unmatched fortitude. Xiabanliao’s Yuchang Lou, which was built by the Liu clan in 1308 during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), is one of the oldest and most resilient of them all. At the grand old age of 700, this tulou is still home to 23 families and about 120 people from the Liu clan. It may not have all the modern conveniences of a new home, but at least the Liu family never have to worry about a mortgage! It towers in at five-storeys in height and 36 metres in diameter, making it is the tallest tulou in China.

In spite of its age, the 25 kitchens on its ground floor are all equipped with their own private well, making it the only tulou in existence with such a convenient water supply. With 250 rooms, 25 kitchens, and a spacious courtyard in the centre, Yuchang Lou is so roomy that it could almost be called a village itself!

In recent years, it has earned the alternate name “the zigzag building” because the wooden post structure within the tulou, which is meant to be vertical, appears to zigzag left and right on the 3rd and 4th floors. This bizarre phenomenon was not intentional but was in fact due to an error made in measuring the building materials. Don’t let the unsteady appearance fool you; this tulou has survived more natural disasters, wars, and sieges than you can count!

Xiabanliao is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

Taxia

Taxia village

The ancient Hakka village of Taxia, tucked away in the lush green mountains of Fujian, is one of the oldest and most spectacular villages China has to offer. It is located in a valley just west of Shuyang Town and is split by a river, which flows through the heart of the village and is lined by over 20 traditional Tulou. These gigantic, fortress-like buildings are made of packed earth and resemble fortified villages. They come in a number of styles, from those of a square or rectangular shape to round and oval ones. They were initially built to protect inhabitants from bandits and wild animals but have seemingly failed to shield them from the curiosity of tourists!

That being said, Taxia is a sleepy village that sees very little traffic and the locals, who have long become accustomed to rural life, while away the hours fishing, farming, and drinking tea. Sometimes it really is the simple things that make life worth living! The village was established in 1426 by the Zhang family but most of the remaining buildings were constructed during the 18th century, with the oldest, Fuxing Lou, having been built in 1631. Diaojiaolou or stilted wooden houses are also littered along the riverbanks of Taxia and only add to the idyllic pastoral scenery. The large tulou made of rich earth and the rustic wooden Diaojiaolou appear to be at one with both the manmade and natural surroundings.

Taxia Village square TulouThe village’s main attraction is the Zhang Family’s Ancestral Hall, which is located near a pond and flanked by 20 stone flagpoles that rise up like a petrified forest. This shrine to the Zhang’s ancestors was built over 400 years ago and is one of the most well-preserved of its kind in the country. The gateway is engraved with a vivid image of two dragons playing with a pearl, inlaid beautifully with coloured ceramic chips, and the whole compound is embossed with lively decorations of Chinese deities, legendary figures, mythical creatures, wild animals, and charming flowers. At the back of the hall, a dense forest creeps its way up the mountains.

Bizarrely, an almost exact replica of this ancestral hall can be found in Taiwan’s Tainan County and was built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) by members of the Zhang family who had moved there. Evidently the Zhangs were a wealthy bunch, but not very creative!

On hot summer nights, the village comes to life as countless fireflies wind their way through the streets and create a sort of fairy tale atmosphere. Imagine spending a balmy evening watching these ethereal lights dance their way through the long grass or skitter above the surface of the river. I can’t think of anything more romantic!

Taxia is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

Tianluokeng

Tianluokeng

Tianluokeng is perhaps one of the most famous villages in Fujian but, with a name that literally means “River Snail Pit”, you’re probably wondering why. Is it full of river snails? Do they “pit” the snails against each other? Of course not! Tianluokeng achieved its fame because it is one of the many stunning villages in rural Fujian that boast magnificent earthen buildings known as Tulou.

The village’s name may originate from a Fujian folktale known as “The Snail Girl”, in which a poor young farmer named Xie Duan is helped by and eventually falls in love with a snail fairy called a tianluo. Some local legends even suggest that the founder of Tianluokeng, Wong Baisanlang, was helped by a fairy named Miss Tianluo. This may explain why the local farmers move at a snail’s pace!

The village rests just outside of Shuyang Town and is home to a cluster of five tulou. These gigantic, fortress-like buildings are made of packed earth and resemble fortified villages. If you look closely at their upper levels, you can still see the small gun holes that were used to shoot at bandits. Snails may hide in their shells in times of danger, but the locals of Tianluokeng preferred a more aggressive approach!

The cluster is made up of one square-shaped tulou in the centre with three round tulou and one oval-shaped tulou surrounding it. Its unusual appearance has earned it the name “four dishes and one soup”, as it resembles the layout for an average family dinner in China. Just don’t try to eat out of these dishes, or you’ll end up the size of a building yourself!

tianluokeng 01The square tulou in the centre is known as “Buyun Lou” or “Reaching for the Clouds Building” and is the oldest of the set, having been built in 1796. Unfortunately its three-storey high exterior was not enough to discourage ne’er-do-wells, as it was burnt down by bandits in 1936 and had to be rebuilt in 1953. Its four sets of stairs were designed to express the founder’s wish that his descendants achieve greatness “step-by-step”. At least he provided them with plenty of fire exits!

Hechang Lou was built not long thereafter and, in 1930, the circular Zhenyang Lou followed. In 1936 Ruiyun Lou was constructed and the last of the bunch, Wenchang Lou, was completed in 1966. The sheer size of these tulou is a miracle in itself, as each one may have taken upwards of two years to build. This means the entire complex would have taken at least ten years to finish!

According to the Chinese philosophy of Feng Shui[1], the placement of the five tulou is particularly auspicious. It is believed that bad luck is more likely to hit the corners of buildings, so many of the tulou are circular in the hopes that misfortune will slide off of their round roofs. Since the square-shaped Buyun Lou is the only one that has corners and is coincidentally the only one to have been burnt down, there may be something to this theory! Nowadays the corners of Buyun Lou are bedecked with lucky symbols in the hopes of warding off evil. Let’s just hope they fireproofed it too!

 

[1] Feng Shui: This theory is based on the premise that the specific placement of certain places or objects will bring good luck.

 

Tianluokeng is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

 

The Presidential Palace

The Presidential Palace in Nanjing

The Presidential Palace is one of the more unusual tourist attractions in Nanjing, as its history spans both imperial and modern China. This has resulted in a hectic mixture of traditional dynastic and contemporary architectural styles, with a post-colonial flair added in for good measure! Nowadays it is known as the China Modern History Museum and, spanning a colossal area of over 90,000 square metres (960,000 sq. ft.), it is the largest modern history museum in the country.

The palace was originally built as a mansion for the Prince of Han during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), but was appropriated during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and made into a fabric manufacturing warehouse. In one fell swoop, the palace literally went from riches to rags! In 1863, revolutionaries of the Taiping Rebellion occupied Nanjing and seized the palace. They instated the city as the capital of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom (1851-1864) and renamed the palace “Tianwang Fu” or “Palace of the Heavenly King”, officially making it the imperial abode of their leader Hong Xiuquan.

When the Qing court retook Nanjing in 1864, Commander Zeng Guofan ordered large parts of the palace to be destroyed and a new palatial residence was erected there in a far more neoclassical style. In 1870, it served as the Office of the Viceroy of Liangjiang, a government official who was charged with the administration of modern-day Jiangsu, Anhui, and Jiangxi provinces. Most people are lucky enough to get their own office space, let alone an entire palace!

The Presidential Palace in Nanjing 01When the Qing Dynasty finally collapsed as a result of the Xinhai Revolution in 1912, Sun Yat-sen[1] was sworn in as the first provisional President of the Republic of China and decided to take offices at the Presidential Palace. However, he only stayed there for a short period of time and it wasn’t until 1927 that the palace became an official symbol for the Nationalist Government. Chiang Kai-shek, who was leader of the Chinese Nationalist Party at the time, transformed the appearance of the palace and made it his base of government. It was briefly lost when Japanese forces occupied Nanjing during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937–1945) and was used by Wang Jiwei, an ex-member of the Chinese Nationalist Party, as the base for the Reorganised National Government of the Republic of China[2]. However, it was swiftly reoccupied in 1946 and was re-established as the Office of the President from 1948 right up until Communist forces captured Nanjing in 1949.

In the late 1980s, the palace was converted into the China Modern History Museum, a museum exclusively dedicated to China’s history from the 20th century onwards. The exhibitions place particular emphasis on the establishment of the Republic of China (1912-1949) and the beginning of the People’s Republic of China. Nowadays it is one of the few places in the country where the flag of the Republic of China can be legally displayed. So if you’re looking for something a little more controversial on your trip to Nanjing, the Presidential Palace is the place to be!

The palace itself is split into three main areas: the Central Area, where the main seat of the Nationalist Government was located; the West Area, where you’ll find the offices of Sun Yat-sen and Xuyuan Garden; and the East Area, where the Executive Department, the stables, and the East Garden can be found. Historical displays and exhibitions are frequently held throughout these three sections.

The Presidential Palace in Nanjing 02The Zichao Building in the central area was built in 1934 and was the site of major political change, as it was often the place where important governmental meetings were held. One can only imagine the heated discussions that once took place within its walls. Yet perhaps the highlight of the palace is Xuyuan Garden, which was originally built during the Ming Dynasty and was named after Prince Zhu Gaoxu. It is an exquisite little slice of nature that was designed after the southern style of landscape gardening, and over 4,000 square metres (43,000 sq. ft.) of its surface area is taken up by the Taiping Lake. It is occasionally referred to as Xiyuan or the “West Garden” because of its location in the western part of the palace.

It features an elaborately decorated boat made entirely of stone known as Buji Zhou, which was masterminded by the Viceroy of Liangjiang in 1746 and was even personally inscribed by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty during his tour of southern China. The garden is also host to a plethora of pagodas and pavilions, including the magnificent Wangfei or “Forget to Fly” Pavilion. According to local legend, it was so-named because birds that migrated to the garden would nest in this pavilion and its beauty would captivate them so much that they’d forget to leave!

The Office of the Provisional President is also located here and is one of the finer features of the complex, as the building itself is a yellow bungalow designed after the Italian renaissance style. It served as the offices of Sun Yat-sen from January to April of 1912 and, with its refreshing blend of ancient Chinese and modern European features, it perfectly epitomises the style of the palace itself.

 

 

[1] Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925): A Chinese revolutionary who played an instrumental role in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, abolishing imperial rule and founding the Republic of China. He became the first president of China in 1912.

[2] The Reorganised National Government: This was the name of the collaborative ruling party that was established by Wang Jiwei, a former member of the Chinese Nationalist Party, and the Japanese army during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937–1945). It was widely regarded as one of the many puppet states used by the Japanese to rival the legitimacy of the nationalist government.

 

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Nanjing

Having served as the capital for 7 separate kingdoms, one dynasty, and one revolutionary government, Nanjing is a city steeped in history and is now ranked as one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China.  It was also the capital of the Republic of China from 1927 to 1949. As a testament to its ancient roots, it is still surrounded by a 48-kilometre-long (30 mi) city wall, which was constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Nowadays it serves as the provincial capital of Jiangsu province, but its long and illustrious history is flecked with success and tragedy.

It all began during the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280 AD), when the city of Jianye (modern-day Nanjing) was designated as the capital of the State of Dong or “Eastern” Wu. It swiftly grew to become the political and cultural centre of southeast China, and was soon to enjoy a long career as the capital for many southern dynasties. The Eastern Jin (317–420), Liu-Song (420–479), Southern Qi (479–502), Southern Liang (502–557), and Southern Chen (557–589) dynasties all set their capital here, each time contributing to the culture and prosperity of this venerated city. In short, Nanjing was China’s Southern Belle!

Yet that all changed during the Sui Dynasty (581-618), when the city was conquered, razed to the ground, and reduced to a small town. It wasn’t properly rebuilt until the Tang Dynasty (618-907), but rose to glory once again as the capital of the Southern Tang Dynasty (937–976) during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960). The city’s success reached its pinnacle when it was instated as the capital of the Ming Dynasty, for the first time becoming the capital of China proper. It was renamed Yingtianfu or “Responding to Heaven” in 1368 by the Hongwu Emperor, who built the city walls and a grand imperial palace for himself. After all, there’s nothing like the gift of giving, particularly when you’re giving to yourself!

In 1421, the Yongle Emperor moved the capital to Beijing but maintained the importance of Yingtianfu, renaming it “Nanping” or “Southern Capital” and making it the country’s subsidiary capital. During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), it was again renamed to Jiangning and, with all of these name changes, it’s a small wonder the locals ever knew what to call it! From then onwards, the city would unfortunately be racked by warfare. In 1853 it was occupied by the revolutionary forces of the Taiping Rebellion and was made the capital of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom (1851–1864), enduring another name change as Tianjing or “The Heavenly Capital”.

The Qing troops finally retook the city in 1864, but lost it to the Chinese Nationalist Party when the Qing Dynasty collapsed in 1912. During the early days of the Republic of China (1912-1949), the city was under the control of various warlords, until Chiang Kai-shek made Nanjing China’s capital in 1927 and unified his control of the country in 1928. Under his instruction, the city flourished once again as a centre for trade, industry, and culture in south China.

Yet tragedy loomed large in 1937, during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), when Nanjing fell to the Japanese. What followed was a horrific three-month-long campaign of slaughter and wartime atrocities known as the Nanjing Massacre. This was undoubtedly the darkest chapter in the city’s history and is still evidenced by one of its more sombre historical attractions, the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall.

Nowadays, with its rich tapestry of history, Nanjing is home to numerous palaces and buildings of huge cultural significance, such as the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, the Confucius Temple, the Linggu or “Valley of the Spirits” Temple, the Sun Yat-sen[1] Mausoleum, and the Presidential Palace. The Confucius Temple even contains the legendary Jiangnan Examinations Office, where trembling scholars would go to take the imperial examinations in the hopes of becoming government officials. The city’s history is palpable not only in these historic sites but also in its numerous museums, such as the Nanjing Museum and the China Modern History Museum, which are widely regarded as some of the finest in the country. Yet silent temples, solemn museums, and dusty old mausoleums aren’t the only things the city has to offer!

It’s surrounded by the Zijin Mountains to the east, the Qingliang Hill to the west, and the Qinhuai River and Mochou Lake to the southwest, making it a haven for hikers and nature lovers. At night, the city lights up and a plethora of restaurants, bars, and theatres awaken to entertain the throngs of visitors. Nanjing salted duck is one of the gastronomic specialities of the region and is renowned for its tender, juicy meat, while local night markets sell a variety of handmade items, such as the delicately woven yunjin or cloud silk brocades. The city’s long history has come together to form a vibrant culture that lives and breathes within its walls, inviting visitors to come and enjoy a taste of Nanjing!

[1] Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925): A Chinese revolutionary who played an instrumental role in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, abolishing imperial rule and founding the Republic of China. He became the first president of China in 1912.

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