Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang)

With a name as illustrious as Black Dragon Pool, it’s unsurprising someone would try to reuse it. There are in fact two Black Dragon Pools in Yunnan alone; one in Kunming and one in Lijiang. However, while the legend behind Kunming’s pool recounts the deeds of 10 nefarious black dragons; its counterpart in Lijiang is named in honour of the Dragon God. In ancient Chinese mythology this deity, known originally as Longwan but now as Longshen, controlled rainfall and was thus an important figure back when China was an agricultural civilization. Yet, in spite of China’s technological advancement and secular government, these ancient gods still play a significant role in the everyday lives of many Chinese people. After all, if it worked for their ancestors, who’s to say it won’t work for them!

Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is located in Jade Spring Park just north of Lijiang Old Town. Its scenic location at the foot of Elephant Hill, with the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looming in the distance, is what has earned the park so much fame throughout Yunnan. From the white marble Suocui Bridge that stretches over the wide expanse of the pool, the view of this snowy mountain amongst the wispy clouds has become iconic and now features as one of the must-see attractions in Lijiang. Throughout summer and autumn, the park is alive with the milky white blossoms of the aquatic Gagnepain Dandy flowers floating on the water and the luxuriant old chestnut trees hanging over the banks.

In the east of the park, you’ll find the Longshen or Dragon God Temple. This temple was constructed by the local Naxi people in 1737, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), and was given the name “Dragon God Temple” by Emperor Qianlong who, after visiting the temple, believed that the Dragon God lived there. The temple consists of five courtyards, a gate-house flanked by two wing-rooms, and a great hall. The courtyards are bedecked with splendid flowers befitting the God of Rain himself. The great hall is used by locals to host sacrificial rituals and pray for rain. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a few of the Naxi people singing or playing traditional instruments. These age-old songs pierce through time, linking the Naxi people to their ancient past.

At the centre of the Black Dragon Pool, connected to the shore by an elaborately carved marble bridge, you’ll find the Moon Embracing Pavilion. It was originally built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) but was tragically destroyed in a fire and rebuilt in 1963. How a building surrounded by water managed to catch fire we do not know, nor do we know how this pavilion manages to embrace the moon from its rather rooted position here on earth, but what we do know is this restored pavilion provides a wonderful view of the pool’s crystal clear waters.

Towards the north end of the park, the magnificent Five-Phoenix Tower overlooks the northern entrance. This 23-metre-tall tower was built in 1601, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), but was originally located at the Fuguo Temple, 30 kilometres to the west of its current location. It was relocated to the Jade Spring Park in 1979 and has since become one of the focal features of Lijiang. It is a marvel of Naxi construction, combining features of Naxi, Tibetan, Bai, and Han style architecture. It is luxuriously decorated with colourful paintings and elaborate carvings, and is so-named because from a certain perspective five beautiful cornices are visible on either side of the tower.

When you visit the Black Dragon Pool, be sure to stop off at the ancient Naxi stage. It’s one of the oldest stages in Lijiang and is housed within an unusual triangular shaped building. Performances are held regularly on the stage and, if you’re feeling particularly brave, the locals will surely welcome a performance from you too!

Just outside of the park’s northern entrance, there’s the Dongba Culture Research Institute and Dongba Culture Museum. These two establishments are dedicated to the research and preservation of the Dongba religion, part of the Naxi ethnic minority’s cultural heritage. The Dongba script, the last known hieroglyphic writing system still in use, is particularly magnificent and it’s certainly worth making a stop at the museum to marvel at some of the ancient sacred texts on display.

Lijiang Old Town

Where the Jade River divides into three tributaries and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looms over the Black Dragon Pool, there you’ll find Lijiang Old Town. The old town, also known as Dayan Ancient District, is one of the two districts that make up Lijiang City, the other being the more modern part. As early as 1997, UNESCO recognised the historical importance of this city and, along with Shuhe Town and Baisha Village, made it into a World Heritage Site. These three ancient places, all within 15 kilometres of one another, are found in Lijiang County and together form what is left of the region’s ancient past.

The old town itself is most notable for its unusual architecture and canal system. The majority of its buildings date back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties and seamlessly combine elements of styles from the Han, Bai, Tibetan and Naxi ethnic groups. The houses tend to be made of timbre, with vivid carvings of people and animals on the doors and windows. The tributaries of the Jade River have been channelled into the old town via canals and waterways that lead it to basins or ponds, providing the townspeople with fresh running water. This ingenious water system has led to the old town being likened to Venice. Typically the ponds are divided into sets of three; one for drinking, one for cleaning vegetables and fruit, and one for washing clothes. Just don’t get them mixed up, or you’ll end up with a bunch of apples that smell like socks!

It is believed the area was occupied as early as the Warring State Period (c. 476-221 B.C.), but the city itself wasn’t established until the late Song Dynasty (960-1279), when a Naxi family known as the Mu clan began building what we now know as Lijiang. They ruled for more than 500 years but were forced to submit to the Mongolians when the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) was established. However, they were allowed to continue their reign as “Tusi” or chieftains throughout the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.

Under their guidance, thereafter Lijiang flourished as one of the major trade hubs along the Tea-Horse Road that ran between Yunnan and Tibet. Bizarrely enough, the reason why Lijiang Old Town has no city wall is because when the character for the Mu family name (木) is surrounded by the character “wei” (囗) it makes the character “kun” (困), which means “to be trapped”, “beset” or “surrounded”. The family felt this was an omen, warning them that if they built city walls then the city would certainly be besieged. If you want to learn more about the family, the massive Mu Family Compound is open to tourists and provides great insight into the history of the city.

Nowadays the old town is hugely popular with tourists and represents a stunning labyrinth of winding flagstone streets, bubbling canals and scenic parks. The Yuquan Park is a particular favourite with visitors and is home to both Elephant Hill and Black Dragon Pool. There are a number of temples in the park and from the central bridge of Black Dragon Pool you’ll be treated to the view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain that has become iconic throughout Yunnan.

If you fancy an afternoon hike, the Lion Hill overlooks the old town and at its summit you’ll find the wonderful Wangu Pavilion. This wooden building stands at 33 metres (108 ft.), boasts 10,000 dragon carvings, and is considered a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty architecture. From the summit, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of both the city and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Near to Lion Hill, the Dongba Cultural Museum is the ideal place to learn more about the local Naxi culture and meet some of the last remaining people who can write Dongba script, the only known hieroglyphic writing system still in existence. Evidently the scenery around Lijiang was so beautiful that the locals could not find words to describe it, and so continued to use pictures instead!

There are plenty of shops in old town where you can pick up a few souvenirs, such as burned wood carvings, yak horn combs, traditional Naxi clothing, art and writing samples of Dongba script, and Naxi handmade embroidery. With a plethora of Naxi, Tibetan and Sichuan style restaurants, it’s also the perfect place to sample a few of the local delicacies, including yak milk tea, yak milk yoghurt, yak steak, and the wickedly delicious Naxi fried white cheese. As the Naxi people know, the only thing better than cheese is deep fried cheese, and it’s covered in sugar! There are a number of cafés scattered throughout the town that serve Yunnan coffee and even a handful of Western-style restaurants and bars.

At night, there are plenty of shows on offer to keep any visitor entertained. You can either take a trip to the Naxi Concert Hall and enjoy the sultry sounds of Chinese classical music played by the Naxi Orchestra, or make your way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Park and marvel at a performance of “Impression Lijiang”, which was designed by Zhang Yimou, the celebrated director of Hero and House of Flying Daggers.

The old town boasts a variety of hotels and hostels that vary in quality. Some of the traditional houses have even been converted into boutique hotels by local families. They are the perfect place to immerse yourself in Chinese history without sacrificing any of your creature comforts!

Jingjiang Princes City

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If you’ve ever wondered what it might be like to be a Chinese royal, or ever wanted to see just how difficult the imperial examinations used to be, Jingjiang Princes City is the ideal place to find out. It is commonly referred to as Jingjiang Princes Palace or Wang Cheng which, though similar in pronunciation, we assure you bears no connection to the 1980s band “Wang Chung”. This small “city within a city” was built during the Ming Dynasty, from 1372 to 1392. However, it tragically suffered heavy damage during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and the second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945). Nowadays, many of the ancient buildings have been rebuilt and, though it may not all be authentic, it’s still as beautiful as it was hundreds of years ago.

It is located within Guilin City and greatly resembles its larger cousin; Beijing’s Forbidden City. Jingjiang City’s history stretches back over 630 years, which actually makes it older than the Forbidden City. It was originally built for the royal Zhu Shouqian, who was the great-nephew of the first Ming Dynasty Emperor, Zhu Yuanzhang. Zhu Shouqian was declared Prince of Jingjiang by his granduncle and it was decided his palace would be set in Guilin. The placement of the palace was specific, as Zhu Shouqian was expected to keep tabs on the southern regions of the Chinese empire and thus aid his granduncle’s rule. Over the course of 257 years, 14 princes from 12 different generations would rule from this palace. Considering only 6 monarchs have lived in Buckingham Palace, managing to last long enough to house 14 of them is no mean feat!

Nowadays the palace acts as part of the Guangxi Normal University campus and as a tourist attraction. The current city is made up of 4 halls, 4 pavilions, and 40 smaller buildings, with a 1,500-metre-long city wall made up of beautiful blue flagstones. Like the Forbidden City, the layout of the buildings is symmetrical and focuses on a central axis, so sometimes it may feel as though you’re walking through a geometric puzzle! The Solitary Beauty Peak is at the northernmost point of the axis. From north to south you’ll find the Imperial Burial Place, Chengyun Palace and Chengyun Gate, and from east to west there’s the Imperial Divine Temple and the Ancestral Temple. All of the other buildings are around these main buildings in a symmetrical pattern. In-keeping with this symmetry, there are four gates on the four points of the compass, known as “Tiren” (Donghua Gate), “Duanli” (Zhengyang Gate), “Zunyi” (Xihua Gate) and “Guangzhi” (Hougong Gate).

Chengyun Palace

This palace was built in 1372 and functioned as the administration office of the city. However, the palace was burned down twice; once during the Qing Dynasty and once during the Japanese invasion. It was rebuilt in 1947 but the carved balustrades and marble steps are all that remain of the original palace.

Solitary Beauty Peak

Most poets write about beautiful women, but the Song Dynasty (420-589) poet Yan Yanzhi evidently had a thing for mountains. In one of his poems he described this peak in the line “the beauty of this solitary peak surpasses all those around it”, and this is how the peak earned its name. It looks like a column jutting out of the earth and makes for quite the sight in a princes palace. Its summit is about 216 metres (about 709 ft.) above sea level and rewards any visitor with a panoramic view of Guilin.

At the foot of the peak, you’ll find the crescent shaped Yueya Pond. The Sun Yat-sen[1] Memorial Tower, built in 1921, rests on the bank of this pond. Moving up the peak, you’ll find Xuanwu Pavilion, Kwanyin Hall, Sanke Temple, and Sanshen (Three Deities) Ancestral Temple. Climbing the peak will hardly feel like a chore when you have so many places to stop and rest.

Study Cave

This cave sits at the east foot of the peak and has become famous for the engravings on its interior, which include an inscription of Yan Yanzhi’s poem and an 800-year-old carving of the famous Chinese saying “the scenery in Guilin is the greatest under heaven”. It is rumoured that, over 1,500 years ago, Yan Tingzhi, the governor of Guilin, often studied here. If you thought your schoolrooms were bad, imagine working inside a cave!

The Examination Rooms

These rooms were established during the Qing dynasty and are supposedly blessed with very good Feng Shui[2], which the residents of Guilin believe was responsible for the success of their local scholars. Guilin’s scholars were so successful at the imperial examinations that it spawned the popular saying “eight Jinshi[3] from one county and two Zhuangyuan[4] from one city”. Many of the attractions in the city, such as the “Sanyuan Jidi” Hall and the “Zhuangyuan Jidi” arch, are dedicated to these scholars. This site has recently been restored and tourists can now take a simulation of the imperial examination. Visitors must enter the hall, use ink brushes to answer the test papers, and then wait to receive their results. If they succeed, they are dressed in the traditional garb of a scholar and rewarded with a certificate.

The Confucian Temple

The Confucian Temple served as an adjunct to the Examination Rooms. In ancient times, before the scholars took the imperial examination, they would first offer sacrifices to Confucius. It was believed that the success of local scholars was in part due to this temple.

The Fortune Well

Many students arriving to take the imperial examination believed that this well would bring them good fortune and would often drink the blessed water beforehand. Perhaps you should have a drink too; you might end up with a Nobel Prize!

The Couple Tree

A locust tree and a banyan tree that have grown together like an embracing couple. They are said to have branches in the shape of a tiger and a horse.

Secret Underground Corridor

In 1977, a secret corridor was discovered within the compound that leads to the Li River. The last prince of the Ming Dynasty used this corridor to carry his treasures and flee the city when the Ming Dynasty collapsed. You never know, you might find some hidden treasure down there!

[1] Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925): A Chinese revolutionary who played an instrumental role in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, abolishing imperial rule and founding the People’s Republic of China.

[2] Feng Shui: This theory is based on the premise that the specific placement of certain places or objects will bring good luck.

[3] Jinshi: These were advanced scholars who passed the three-yearly court exam, the highest level of imperial examination.

[4] Zhuangyuan: These were the highest ranking of all the scholars, as they were the ones who ranked first nationwide in the three-yearly court exam, the highest level of imperial examination. In the space of just 4 years, Guilin produced two zhuangyuan, which was considered nothing short of a miracle.

Erhai Lake

On a sunny day, the snow-capped Cangshan Mountains are reflected in the deep waters of the Erhai Lake, and the seeming inseparability of these two natural wonders gave rise to the local saying “silver Cangshan and jade Erhai”. The name “Erhai” literally means the “Er Sea” and it’s referred to as a “sea” because it covers an area of 250 square kilometres, making it 17 times the size of Lake Windermere, England’s largest natural lake! In fact, the lake is so large that it sports a number of islands, which in turn support small fishing villages and temples.

From the peaks of Cangshan, Erhai Lake looks like a ribbon winding around the coast. It is characterised by its narrowness, being 41 kilometres long but only 3 to 9 kilometres wide. Beneath its murky depths, the lake is home to a diverse community of fish, including 3 species of carp that can only be found in Erhai. This makes the lake an ideal place to fish and for many years it has remained an important food source for the local Bai ethnic minority. If you travel to Erhai, you’ll be treated to a demonstration of the Bai people’s traditional technique of fishing, where they use trained cormorants to catch the fish and return them to the fishermen.

There are plenty of places by the lakeside where you can rent a small boat and venture out onto the waters. You can visit some of the nearby islands, including Jinsuo or “Golden Shuttle” Island, Nanzhao Folklore Island and Xiaoputuo Island, and marvel at a few of the Buddhist temples there. The most magnificent of these temples is considered to be the one on Xiaoputuo Island, which was built during the 15th century. Though it is small, it perfectly exhibits the ancient architectural-style of a typical Buddhist temple and looks particularly beautiful reflected in the lake. Just don’t expect to find any tiny monks inside!

On the lakeside, the stunning Butterfly Spring and charming Erhai Lake Park make for a wonderful day out. The park rests at the base of Tuanshan Peak on the Cangshan Mountains and boasts an arboretum, a public swimming pool, a zoo and a path to an observation deck further up the mountain. In spring, the park is awash with blossoms as the camellias, azaleas, primrose, and numerous exotic trees bloom. Similarly, the Butterfly Spring is a flurry of lively, colourful butterflies, all emerging from their cocoons and gracefully gliding through the air.

Alongside the park, a number of teahouses and restaurants run by members of the Bai ethnic minority provide visitors with a tantalising taste of traditional Bai cuisine. You can even take part in the Three Teas Ceremony whilst casually admiring the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The Three Pagodas, Dali Ancient Town and the Bai village of Xizhou are all within cycling distance of the lake, making it a perfect resting spot on your tour of the region.

Chuxiong

From the Clay Forests of Yuanmou County to the dinosaur bones of Lufeng, Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture is steeped in a history that stretches back millions of years. The fossilised remains of the Yuanmou Man, an ape-like human ancestor that lived over 1.7 million years ago, were discovered here in 1965 and evidence of human activity predating the Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.) has been found throughout the prefecture. Thus it comes as no surprise that many Chinese people regard Chuxiong as the cradle of mankind. The prefectural capital, aptly named Chuxiong City, is a central hub that acts as the midway point between Yunnan’s three most popular tourist cities; Kunming, Lijiang, and Dali. Tragically this often means Chuxiong gets overlooked by foreign tourists so if you happen to be passing through, take a couple of days to explore this strange and wonderful place. After all, you may come across your great-great-great-great-great-grandfather!

The prefecture was so named because, of its 2.5 million inhabitants, over 26% of them are from the Yi ethnic minority. Up until the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Yi people were in the vast majority throughout Chuxiong but were swiftly overcome by the ethnic Han people when they migrated from Central China to Yunnan. Nowadays the prefecture is the ideal place to learn about Yi culture and visit traditional Yi villages. In the northwestern district of Chuxiong City, there is even a tourist attraction known as the Ancient City of the Yi People, which is not actually an ancient city but provides tourists with the opportunity to watch Yi residents perform traditional dances and purchase a few locally made handicrafts.

The city itself is home to a plethora of local parks where visitors can relax and enjoy a peaceful day out. Futa Park or “Park of Good Fortune” is home to the looming Futa Pagoda, a nine-storey behemoth that towers over the city at nearly 60 metres (197 ft.) in height. A harrowing climb to the top rewards any visitor with a breath-taking panoramic view of the city and outside the pagoda you’ll find a large statue of the Laughing Buddha, whose belly button has been worn smooth thanks to visitors rubbing his pendulous stomach. Perhaps he’s laughing because he’s ticklish!

Taiyangli Park, also known as the Ten Month Calendar Garden, is possibly the most famous park in the city as it was designed around the Yi people’s ten month calendar and features beautifully carved statues from the Yi Zodiac. Their version of the zodiac includes several animals that are absent from the traditional Chinese zodiac, such as the pangolin and the peacock, and several other bizarre decorations, such as concrete gourds that are large enough to stand in and what appears to be a graveyard for abandoned paddleboats, can be found littered throughout the park.

Outside of the city, the delightfully odd attractions appear to multiply! To the southwest you’ll find the magnificent Zixi Mountain, which has been considered a sacred Buddhist site since the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The Zixi Mountain Forest Park is an ideal place to go hiking, as Buddhist temples and ruins are scattered across the mountain. With its lush pine forests, 202 resident plant species and 107 animal species, the mountain’s rich biodiversity makes it a hotspot for nature tourists.

In Yuanmou County, you’ll find the three clay forests, known as Hutiaotan, Banguo and Xinhua, where extensive water erosion has caused rocks to form unusual natural landforms over centuries. These landforms look like animals, trees and plants frozen still in time, trapped inside the immovable rock. There’s even one formation that supposedly looks like a Catholic Church; but don’t show up in your Sunday best as you’ll be bitterly disappointed to find they don’t celebrate Mass! In Lufeng County, the complete skeletons of four dinosaurs are on display in Lufeng Dinosaur Museum and the numerous exhibitions provide visitors with an insight into earth’s ancient past.

We recommend visiting Chuxiong in late summer, as the Yi Torch Festival takes place in August every year and is one of the major highlights of the Yi calendar. The festival features a stunning torch parade, singing, dancing, and the playing of traditional instruments well into the night. It’s a lively display that is not to be missed; just don’t get too carried away with your dancing or you may fall into the bonfire!

Kunming

A city of eternal spring, a gateway to the Silk Road (the Ancient Tea-Horse Road), a Chinese military centre; in its 2,400-year long history Yunnan’s provincial capital has been many things. Thanks to its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer and the protection from the vast Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, its temperate weather year-round has earned it the title of Spring City. It was once, and still is, the trade hub between China and many of the Southeast Asian countries. And nowadays its comfortable climate, numerous attractions, and ethnically diverse population have transformed Kunming into a tourist paradise, with approximately 800,000 foreign tourists visiting the city each year.

The city of Kunming was first founded in 765 A.D., but ancient settlements around nearby Lake Dianchi date all the way back to 279 B.C. In 1276, Mongol rulers named the area Kunming County and made it the capital of Yunnan. Many scholars believe Kunming was once the ancient city of Yachi Fu or “Duck Pond Town”, which was described by Marco Polo as a place where people ate raw meat and used cowries (snail shells) as currency. Today Kunming is as fascinating as Marco Polo found it all those years ago, although we recommend you don’t try to pay for your hotel room in snail shells!

The city is now a mismatch of modern commercial districts, residential districts, preserved districts of the ancient city, and university campuses. Every day the city comes to life, with students rushing to their classes, retirees practising Tai Chi in the park, backpackers embarking on their next adventure, and ethnic minority groups performing age-old rituals. The city has a population of about 6.5 million people, meaning that the streets are always crowded, lively and full of interesting characters.

No matter where you go in Kunming, you’re bound to stumble upon some new attraction. The city is home to many charming parks, of which Cuihu Park and Daguan Park are considered the most popular. If you fancy a relaxing day out then Cuihu Park, with its lotus covered pools, flocks of tranquil black-headed gulls, and hauntingly beautiful willow trees, is the place for you. Alternatively, if you like to move at a faster pace, then Daguan Park’s strange mixture of raucous fun fairs and boisterous youths, set directly alongside the majestic 300-year-old Daguan Pavilion, makes for an intriguing world of polar opposites. There’s even a zoo in Kunming, where visitors can enjoy the tranquil peacock garden, butterfly enclosure, aviary, aquarium, and the “sea of flowers” that engulfs the zoo every spring and summer.

At some stage in your life you must have surely asked yourself the all-important question; where is the largest copper temple in China? Well there’s no need to lose any more sleep over it because it’s right here in Kunming! In the northern suburbs of the city, you’ll find the Golden Temple, which was constructed in 1602 from a whopping 200 tonnes of copper. Everything, including the roof-tiles and doors, is made of copper and its shimmering appearance is what earned it its name. That being said, a visit to the temple may just leave you asking more questions, like why would you build a temple out of copper? We’re not quite sure why either, but it certainly looks magnificent!

However, if you’re desperate to learn about the history of the temple and the city itself, Kunming boasts 6 different museums that will cater to all of your academic needs. There’s the Yunnan Provincial Museum, the Kunming City Museum, the Kunming Natural History Museum, and the Yunnan Ethnology Museum, to name but a few. The Yunnan University Museum of Anthropology even has a rare exhibit featuring traditional wooden-body armour from the Yi ethnic minority. Visiting any of these museums is the perfect way to see a few of Yunnan’s hidden treasures and take a few interesting stories back with you. Who needs a souvenir when you can recite the Latin names of Yunnan’s 17,000 species of plant?

Kunming is a treasure trove of tourist attractions, from the Tanhua Temple, with its 300-year-old orchid cacti, to the alien landscape of the Stone Forest. The city boasts a wide variety of both Western and Chinese-style restaurants, cafés, and bars, which together make for a vibrant nightlife. Hotels and hostels of varying quality are scattered throughout the city, catering to a myriad of tourists from different backgrounds. So, if you’re tired of traveling to the same boring destinations, we’re sure a trip to the Spring City will put the spring back in your step!

Nanning

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The name Nanning (南宁) literally means “Peace in the South” as historically the imperial government used Nanning as a stronghold to aid the integration of the south of China with the north. Nowadays, although the city has undoubtedly grown into a burgeoning metropolis, the lush tropical greenery that has earned Nanning the title of “Green City” still gives this urban city an air of tranquillity. Nanning is the capital city of Guangxi and is, unsurprisingly, also its largest city. It boasts a population of over 6.5 million people and is home to communities of 35 different ethnic minorities, including Zhuang, Yao, Hui, Miao, Dong, and Man people, to name but a few. Nanning is a melting pot of various cultures and this is reflected in its customs, cuisine, and linguistic diversity.

Due to its close proximity to neighbouring Guangdong province, where Cantonese culture prevails over Han Chinese culture, many of the older people in Nanning will speak Cantonese instead of Mandarin Chinese. However, thanks to the diligent efforts of the Chinese government, many of the younger people in Nanning now speak a dialect of Mandarin Chinese. Since Nanning has a significant contingency of Zhuang people, many local people will also speak the Zhuang language and you’ll even find that many of the road signs have been transliterated into both Cantonese and the Zhuang language. The city’s proximity to the Vietnam border and to Hong Kong and Macau means its culture has also been heavily influenced by these three neighbours. This makes Nanning one of the most culturally and linguistically diverse cities in China.

nanning02With over 3,500 different species of tropical plant thriving in the city, Nanning is also famed for its biodiversity. The city flower is the vibrant Chinese hibiscus and the city tree is the almond tree, both of which are prevalent throughout the city. The verdant greenery is so prolific throughout Nanning that, from certain angles, it looks as though the city has been overgrown with vegetation. This natural beauty has given way to a number of local attractions, including the historic People’s Park, magnificent Qingxiu Mountain in the south of the city, tranquil South Lake, and Guangxi Medicinal Herb Botanical Garden. The Detian Waterfall that rests on the border between Vietnam and China is particularly spectacular and can be easily reached from Nanning.

Nanning’s significance to the history of South China and its diverse ethnic minority population can be studied at the local Guangxi Museum. This museum boasts an eclectic variety of exhibits, including a hall dedicated to ancient bronze drums found in Guangxi, an exhibition detailing the history and culture of the resident ethnic minorities, and an open-air stage where ethnic groups perform and replicas of different ethnic dwellings are on display. A stop to this museum will enrich any trip with a wealth of interesting facts, stories and legends about both the Han Chinese and the ethnic minorities of China.

Since Nanning has become one of the foremost cities in China to study Mandarin Chinese, it has adapted to the sensitivities and palates of its many foreign visitors. You can now find many Western-style restaurants, cafés, bars, and clubs littered throughout the city. This is surprisingly unusual for a southern Chinese city, even one as large as Nanning. The nightlife in the city is especially vibrant and, when the lights switch on at dusk, the cityscape looks irresistibly dazzling. There is a wide variety of hotels and hostels that cater to all different types of visitor, from those who simply want a bed to those who desire a luxurious, 5-star palace. If you want to truly experience urban life in Guangxi, Nanning is the best place to be!

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Legend has it that, long ago, a tiger was running from a hunter when he was cornered on the river banks. With the rapids thundering behind him and the gorge rising up on all sides, he had nowhere to go. Suddenly, as the hunter approached, the tiger leapt from the bank to a rock in the centre of the rushing water, and then jumped to safety on the opposite bank. Supposedly the tiger cleared 25 metres (82 ft.) in order to escape the hunter, a feat unmatched by any modern tiger, and since then it has been known as Tiger Leaping Gorge.

The gorge is made up of a canyon with the Jinsha River running through it. It can be found about 60 kilometres (37 mi) north of Lijiang City and, since the Jinsha River makes up the upper reaches of the magnificent Yangtze River, it is part of the Three Parallel Rivers Site. At its maximum depth, there is approximately 3,790 metres (12,434 ft.) from river to mountain peak, making Tiger Leaping Gorge one of the deepest river canyons in the world.

It marks the point where the river passes between the colossal Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain. At its base, the gorge stretches 15 kilometres in length and is flanked on one side by a series of rapids and on the other by 2,000 metre-high cliffs. With that in mind, I’m sure we can all appreciate how terrifying it must have been to leap over!

Due to its ecological importance, the area itself is now protected. Several different ecological and climate zones meet in the region, which has resulted in an unusually large number of plant and animal species thriving here. Many rare plants and animals can be found in the gorge, making wildlife preservation of paramount importance. If only that had been the case years ago, and then perhaps it would be called Tiger Resting Gorge instead!

It is now a popular tourist location for both Chinese and foreign tourists who want to enjoy a challenging hike and admire the magnificent scenery. There are a number of hiking trails you can take, but most of them begin near the Upper Gorge in the town of Qiaotou, also known as Tiger Leaping Gorge Town, and finish in the town of Daju near the Lower Gorge. The Lower Trail is the shortest, easiest and most popular with Chinese tourists. It is made up of a road that was recently built along the south side of the river, which you can either hike or take a tour bus along. This trail offers wonderful views of the foaming waters as they rush through the gorge and will take you past the Tiger Leaping Rock, making it the ideal option if you don’t feel up to the more strenuous hikes.

The High Trail can only be hiked and provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a little solitude, revelling in the true majesty of the gorge. Most of the trail is at an elevation of about 2,700 metres (8,800 ft.) and is mostly one kilometre above the river, meaning you can still hear the water as it thunders below you. The trail is approximately 22 kilometres (14 mi) long and features a number of micro-ecosystems, waterfalls and verdant forests along the way. Many locals from the Naxi ethnic minority live in nearby villages and use this trail daily, meaning you can connect with some of the ethnic culture whilst hiking. Be forewarned, the Naxi people are a matriarchal culture and their women are notoriously bossy, so don’t cross one or you might end up leaping across the gorge yourself!

If you fancy a real challenge, you can enhance your hiking experience by taking the optional trails to Walnut Grove and the Bamboo Forest. The High Trail descends to meet the Low Trail at Tiger Leaping Rock, which is the point along the river where the tiger supposedly leapt over.

Depending on your speed, the trail should take you between one and a half days to three days. We recommend you take a leisurely pace, as this affords the opportunity to stop and marvel at the scenery on your way. There are plenty of guesthouses and hotels littered throughout the trail that provide hikers with supplies, meals and a place to stay.

The trails are all considered impassable during the rainy season, which is from June to September. Heavy rain increases the risk of landslides and people have died there before during adverse weather conditions. We strongly recommend that you avoid visiting during this season, as it is not worth the risk. The best times to hike the gorge are October, November and May, as the weather is temperate but not too wet.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Long before recorded time, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain were brothers who made a living panning the Jinsha or “Golden Sands” River. They lived a happy life, until one day an evil fiend attacked them and took over the river. But the brave brothers did not flinch. They took up arms and fought the fiend with all their might. Haba, the first brother, tragically died in the fight, but Jade Dragon was able to drive away the fiend using his 13 swords. Thereafter, Jade Dragon guarded the local villages and carried his 13 swords with him day and night. For their heroic deeds, the immortals transformed the two brothers into two snow-capped mountains, and Jade Dragon’s 13 swords became the 13 peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The people of the Naxi ethnic minority still revere the mountains as holy places and honour the memories of these two heroes to this day.

Each of the 13 peaks has an altitude of at least 4,000 metres (13,123 ft.) and at different altitudes up the peak you’ll find different temperature zones. This makes the mountain range a safe haven for rare animals and plants, with one fourth of all plant species in China being found on the mountain, and 20 primeval forests sheltering 400 types of trees and 30 species of animals that are under national protection. Its highest peak, known as Shanzidou, has an elevation of over 5,500 metres (18,300 ft.) and its dangerously high avalanche risk means it has only been climbed once. So, unless you want to get covered in a dragon’s length of snow, we recommend taking the cable cars!

Whether its holidaymaking, mountaineering, skiing, or hiking, this small mountain range caters to a variety of tourists. It’s only 15 kilometres south of Lijiang Ancient Town and the view from Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is considered one of the most magnificent in Yunnan. It is said that, from a distance, the fog-enlaced mountains look like a jade dragon lying in the clouds. This may be where the mountain range gets its name, but the epic Naxi tale of Jade Dragon and his 13 swords sounds far more enchanting, doesn’t it?

On the eastern side of the mountains, you’ll find Tiger Leaping Gorge, which offers a plethora of hiking trails that should not be missed. On the western side, there are still more hiking opportunities, with cable cars leading to Glacier’s Park, Dry Sea Meadow, Yak Meadow and Spruce Meadow. At an elevation of about 4,500 metres (14,757 ft.), the tram building at Glacier’s Park is one of the highest in the world and provides visitors with access to a glacier and a path that leads to the summit of a high peak, reaching altitudes of about 4,600 metres (15,350 ft.). For those of you who aren’t used to such dizzying heights, there are vendors on hand selling tanks of oxygen. The view from the peak is truly spectacular and, along the way, the snow is ripe for plentiful snowball fights!

The Dry Sea Meadow and Yak Meadow are both at an altitude of around 3,500 metres (about 12,000 ft.) and can be accessed by the same cable car. The Dry Sea Meadow was once a lake that has since dried up, while the Yak Meadow is grassy area where farmers graze their yaks. Both areas are extremely peaceful, as they draw few crowds, and there’s even a beautiful temple at Yak Meadow where visitors can rest and admire the simple but majestic yaks. Similarly, a third tram goes to Spruce Meadow, which is only at an elevation of about 3,200 metres (10,500 ft.) and is equally as tranquil.

On the south side of the mountain range, there is a small village known as Jade Water Village. Since it is only 8 kilometres north of Lijiang Ancient Town, its very accessible and provides still more sightseeing opportunities. From the village, you can either hike up the mountains or take a guided horse riding tour through the designated park areas. Jade Water Village and other small Naxi villages around the mountains also offer the chance to sample Naxi delicacies such as yak milk tea and yak steak. Just don’t take any of these tasty snacks up to Yak Meadow, or you might offend someone!

Huangluo Red Yao Village

Huangluo Red Yao Village is part of the Longji Rice Terraces Scenic Area but amazingly this is not its focal attraction. Huangluo is located just 1 kilometre south of Ping’an village and over 87 kilometres (54 miles) from Guilin city. It is famous throughout China not for its magnificent rice terraces, but for its locals. Huangluo is home to the Red Yao people, a branch of the Yao ethnic minority that are so-called for the vibrant red jackets and shirts that the women wear on festival occasions. The village itself is relatively ordinary, with a population of just over 400 people living in 60 households throughout the village. However, what makes this village so extraordinary is a strange habit kept up by the local Yao women, which has earned Huangluo the title of “World’s First Long Hair Village”.

The village holds the Guinness World Record for the largest group of people with the longest hair. Over 60 girls in the village have silken black hair over one metre in length, and a handful of them have hair over 2 metres long. Their hair is not only incredibly long, it is in exceedingly good condition and this is all thanks to a beauty regime that the Yao women have practised for years. Normally they will wash their hair in the river every day but every third or fourth day they will wash their hair using a special “shampoo”. This “shampoo” is made by first fermenting water that has been used to wash rice. This water is fermented for at least a week until it starts to smell a little sour. The rice water is then boiled and pomelo skins are added to the mixture. Finally, the residue left over from crushing tea plant seeds into tea oil is added and the “shampoo” is complete. The women first run the shampoo through their hair, and then comb it whilst rinsing the shampoo out with fresh local spring water.

The Yao women grow their hair like this because they believe that long hair symbolises longevity so the longer your hair is, the longer your life is likely to be. Yao women only cut their hair once in their lifetime and this is when they turn eighteen years old. The cutting of the hair is a rite of passage, implying that the girl is now an adult and ready for marriage. The cut hair will be kept and styled into an ornamental headpiece, which is then reincorporated back into the woman’s hair when she is married. The Yao women are in fact characterised by this hairstyle, which consists of three bunches of hair. The first bunch of hair is her natural hair, the second is the hair from her first haircut, and the third is made from strands of hair that fall out during combing and are kept over time. All of this hair will be held in place using just a single comb.

The hair of a Yao woman is also a useful indication of her social status. If a woman’s hair is covered, this is an indication that she is unmarried. Traditionally, no man was allowed to see a woman’s hair until her wedding day, when her groom would be treated to an unveiling of her beautiful hair for the first time. If any man saw her hair before her wedding day, regardless of whether they were a villager or an outsider, they would have to stay with her parents for three years as if they were their son-in-law. If the woman’s hair is simply wrapped around her head, this indicates that she is married but as yet has no children. Finally, a small bun at the front of the head indicates that the woman is married with children.

Once you’re in Huangluo, you can enjoy performances of the women showing off their long, luxurious hair. These performances also incorporate singing and dancing, a favourite pastime of the Yao people. They sing sweet folk songs about the mountains, the terraces, the history of the Yao people, and many other themes close to their heart. The Yao people are incredibly friendly and hospitable, so don’t be too surprised if a local invites you into their home for a drink or simply to admire their rustic way of life. Unfortunately Huangluo is one of the few villages in the area that has been heavily developed for tourism, thanks to the unique appearance of the Red Yao women, so it can be quite crowded. If you want to get a taste of Yao culture without having to endure the crowds, we recommend visiting the villages of Dazhai and Tiantou in the Jinkeng Terraced Fields Area.

There are currently no official hotels or hostels in Huangluo. If you want to stay in the area overnight, we recommend staying at one of the hotels in Ping’an or Dazhai and traveling from there to Huangluo. To get to Huangluo, you first need to take an express bus from Guilin to Longsheng County Town or Heping Town, which takes about 2 hours. From Longsheng or Heping, you can take another bus that goes directly to Huangluo and takes just over an hour. Alternatively, you can take the bus from Longsheng to Ping’an and then hike from Ping’an to Huangluo, which only takes about 15 minutes.