Hakka People

Hakka 01

It is important to note that the Hakka are not among China’s 55 resident ethnic minorities, but are in fact a subgroup of the Han ethnic majority. They are distinguished from Han people by their language, their unusual architecture, and a few other quirky cultural traits. The term Hakka or “Kejia” (客家) means “guest families” and was initially coined during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) in reference to people or “guests” who had left their homelands and settled in other parts of China. The Hakka earned this unusual title because, over a period of more than a thousand years, they were subject to a series of approximately five forced migrations. So if you thought moving house was hard, imagine moving your whole extended family five times over!

They are believed to have originated from northern and central China, primarily from lands bordering the Yellow River that now make up modern-day Shanxi, Henan and Hubei. However they were forced further and further south due to political unrest and nowadays the majority of Hakka people can be found in the provinces of Guangdong, Jiangxi, Fujian, Hong Kong, Guangxi, Sichuan, Hunan, and Hainan.

It is estimated that the population of Hakka people in China is now over 31 million, with 60% of the world’s Hakka population residing in Guangdong. They have successfully emigrated out of China and now constitute approximately 15% to 20% of Taiwan’s population, making them the second largest ethnic group in that country. They can be found not only in Asian countries such as Malaysia and Thailand but also further afield in Canada, Australia, the United States and throughout Europe.

Their language, known as Hakka Chinese, incorporates features of both Mandarin Chinese and Cantonese so many people regard it as a bridge between these two languages. It is considered one of the oldest languages in China and has remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years, although some people argue that it is a dialect of Chinese. As if that wasn’t confusing enough, there are a number of dialects within the Hakka language, of which Meixian Hakka is considered the standard. In some parts of China and Taiwan, the constituency of Hakka people is so large that some televised news-broadcasts are done in Hakka Chinese!

They have become renowned for a special type of building known as a Tulou, which can be found throughout southwest Fujian, Jiangxi, and Guangdong. These buildings are usually round or square in shape and can be several stories high. They are essentially fortresses and the larger ones resemble fortified villages! They were initially built to protect inhabitants from bandits and wild animals but are still in use today. After all, you never know when a marauding panda might come sniffing around! These earthen structures are considered so unique that a representative sample of about 10 Tulou in Fujian were made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

As far as religion is concerned, the Hakka people’s beliefs are almost identical to those of the Han Chinese. Their primary form of religious expression is in ancestor worship and they tend to follow a mixture of Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism, and folk religion, much like the Han. Politically speaking, the Hakka have had a huge impact on Chinese history and many famous political figures were of Hakka descent. Luodai Ancient Town in Sichuan even has a museum dedicated to the Hakka people and is reputed to be the greatest Hakka town in western China. Meizhou City, in Guangdong Province, is considered the largest Hakka city all over the world.

Get more stories about Hakka people on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

Chengyang

Chengyang is a wonderful little cluster of villages just 18 kilometres away from the city of Sanjiang. The eight villages, known separately as Ma’an, Pingzhai, Yanzhai, Chengyang-Dazhai, Pingpu, Pingtan, Jichang and Guandong, are predominantly inhabited by the Dong ethnic minority. From lofty Drum Towers to elegant Wind-Rain Bridges, their vibrant culture shines amongst Guangxi’s karst mountains. This farming community is punctuated by fields ripe with tea bushes, bubbling brooks winding past misty mountains, and wooden structures of all shapes and sizes. With eight magical places vying for your attention, you’ll be spoilt for choice!

Yet the main draw to this scenic area is Chengyang Wind-Rain Bridge, which was built in 1912 and is now over 100 years old. Though there are hundreds of wind-rain bridges in the area, this one is considered the most magnificent. It is also known as Yongji or Panlong Bridge and is made up of 2 platforms, 3 piers, 5 pavilions, 19 verandas, and 3 floors, giving it the appearance more of a palace than a bridge! It spans nearly 65 metres (211 ft.) in length and was miraculously built without the use of nails or rivets. The local Dong carpenters simply used dove-tailed joints to hold this amazing structure together and managed to accomplish the whole project without the use of blueprints!

In true Dong style, the villagers of Ma’an also hold performances twice every day. The Dong ethnic minority are well-known for their harmonious grand choirs and watching one of these performances represents both an audible and visual feast, from the soulful folk songs of the town elders to the dazzling festive outfits of the local girls. If you happen to be hiking through this cluster of villages, you may even come upon an impromptu performance in a local drum tower. Just be sure to give the villagers a small tip, otherwise the next song they sing might end up being “The Foreign Cheapskate”!

Join our travel to visit Chengyang: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Datong

Datong is known as the “City of Coal” and, due to its status as a major coal-mining region, it has managed to garner an unfortunate reputation as one of the most polluted cities in the country. Yet, much like Beijing, hidden behind the smog are wondrous historical treasures unmatched throughout China. The city lies at the northernmost point of Shanxi province and, thanks to various environmental measures and a burgeoning tourist trade, the smoke appears to be clearing and revealing some of the finest sights the country has to offer.

The town was first founded under the name Pingcheng in 200 BC, during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), and its location near the Yanmenguan Pass of the Great Wall meant that it flourished as a trade port between northern China and Inner Mongolia. Unfortunately, the town was sacked towards the end of the dynasty and was largely left until it became the capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD) around about the year 398. It was from this capital that the Wei court oversaw the construction of the magnificent Yungang Grottoes.

In 1048 the city was renamed Datong and became the western capital of the Jurchen Jin Dynasty[1] (1115–1234) but was tragically sacked by the Mongols during its fall. This rather unlucky city would be sacked yet again in 1649, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), before being promptly rebuilt in 1652. After being destroyed three times, it’s a small wonder Datong has any buildings left!

Within the city itself, the Nine Dragon Screen, Huayan Temple, and Shanhua Temple are the three main places of interest. The 600-year-old screen, resplendent with glazed dragons of vibrant colours, is the oldest and largest of its kind. It was built during the Ming Dynasty and is over 45 metres (149 ft.) long with over 400 specially-fired glazed bricks making up its sparkling surface. After all, if you can’t have real dragons, make beautiful fake ones!

On the southwest side of the city, the Huayan Temple houses five large statues of Buddha and over 18,000 volumes of Buddhist scripture. It was built during the Liao Dynasty (907-1125) according to the Huayan branch of Buddhism and is the largest Liao temple in existence. It is unique in that it’s the only temple of its kind to face east instead of south. During the Ming Dynasty, it underwent large scale renovations and has thus remained well-preserved to this day. After all, every good celebrity needs a little face lift once and a while!

The Shanhua Temple, which was founded during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), has also undergone several repairs. Thanks to these renovations, the Daxiongbao Hall, the largest of its kind in China, has managed to remain well-preserved since it was built during the Liao Dynasty. Evidently Datong’s ancient buildings have found the elixir of youth, and its all thanks to a little plaster and some TLC!

Yet some of the most spectacular sights can be found just beyond Datong’s borders. About 16 kilometres (10 mi) west of the city, the Yungang Grottoes have weathered the sandstorms for over 1,500 years. This collection of over 51,000 statues of Buddha has long been inducted as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is truly a testament to the industrious nature of the ancient Chinese people.

In the lush scenery surrounding Mount Hengshan, just 60 kilometres (37 mi) southeast of Datong, you’ll find the Hanging Temple embedded deep into the cliff-face. This stunning monastery has clung to the side of the mountain for over 1,500 years and is one of the only houses of worship to acknowledge more than one religion. If the Hanging Temple represents ancient China’s religious tolerance, then the nearby Yanmenguan Pass, one of the most important gatehouses along the Great Wall, is a subtle reminder of the darker, bloodier side of its past.

In Yingxian County, about 70 kilometres (43 mi) south of Datong, the Pagoda of Fogong Temple looms over the surrounding countryside and is the largest and oldest wooden building in China. It is over 67 metres (220 ft.) tall and over 950 years old, making it over twice size of Buckingham Palace and three times as old! It goes without saying that this pagoda is a no-smoking area; if you accidentally burnt it down, I don’t think your travel insurance would cover the cost!

[1] Jurchen Jin Dynasty (1115-1234): Led by the Jurchen clan, who were of Manchu descent and controlled most of northern China but were ultimately defeated by the rising Mongol Empire. Not to be confused with the imperial Jin Dynasty (265-420).

Datong is one of the many wonderful stops on our Cultural Tour in Shanxi.

Beihai

With its silvery beaches, sparkling waters, delectable array of seafood, and abundance of glittering pearls, once you get to Beihai you’ll never want to leave! Beihai is a tropical paradise nestled on the Gulf of Tonkin at the southernmost point of Guangxi. Its name literally means “north of the sea” because that’s precisely where it is. Two thousand years ago, Beihai was one of the main ports of the Maritime Silk Road, providing Guangxi, Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Hunan, and Hubei with access to foreign trade. Nowadays it provides foreign tourists with an opportunity to marvel at the aquatic wildlife, work on their tans, or sample some of the freshest seafood in Guangxi. If only they could export such wonderful products!

The climate in Beihai is subtropical, so it benefits from luxuriously hot weather. The average annual temperate is about 22°C, but in the summer months it can reach highs of 37°C. We recommend visiting the city between April and November, as these months benefit from the most sunshine. The springs and summers are characteristically wet, so you’ll need to bring an umbrella, but the autumns are dry and still pleasantly warm. Throughout the year, the cool sea breeze rushes through the city and provides the locals with fresh, salty sea air. Winter is the driest season but is unusually cold, making poor beach weather. Unless you enjoy sitting on the beach in your coat that is!

With a population of only 1.5 million people, Beihai is a relatively small city so you won’t be competing with too many people for the best beach spots. The city’s Silver Beach is one of the most celebrated beaches in China and boasts rare grey-white quartz sand, which is what gives it its distinctly silvery appearance. At night, the moonlight bouncing off of this silvery sand, coupled with the fluorescent seaweed in the water, makes it appear as though the beach is glowing. Near to the beach, there’s a sea-life centre called Underwater World. It features over 2,800 species of aquatic plant life and over 670 species of aquatic animal, all arranged according to their evolutionary order. A few of the main attractions include exhibits of the rare Dugong, Chinese White Dolphin, and cowfish, and the centre’s trusty mascot, a 600-year-old turtle.

If you’re more interested in the history of Beihai, we recommend visiting the Old Street in the centre of the city, where the remains of several old colonial buildings are preserved, or taking a cruise to the nearby islands of Weizhou and Xieyang. These islands are the perfect places to learn about the fishing cultures of the Tanka or Dan people, from the Hao Dan who catch oysters to the Zhu Dan who dive for pearls and the Yu Dan who make a modest living catching fish. One of the more bizarre attractions on Weizhou Island is a 100-year-old Catholic Church, which sits near to the volcanic park. I suppose it’s easy to imagine what fire and brimstone is like when it’s just outside the door! In the nearby county of Hepu, you can also visit some newly excavated tombs from the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.–220 A.D.), along with a stunningly well restored temple.

At the centre of the city, in Beibuwan Square, there’s a tall monument that represents the Pearl of the South. Beihai’s most popular commodity is its pearls, particularly its southern pearls, so it’s the perfect place to buy pearl jewellery for your loved ones or yourself. The best quality pearls are from Hepu County but these can only be bought in eight, designated shops littered throughout Beihai. Along with pearls, shell carving, horn carving, and bamboo woven craftworks are prevalent in the city and make for lovely souvenirs.

Unfortunately, the only thing you can’t take away with you is the seafood! Seafood is everywhere in Beihai and, unlike Shanghai and Hangzhou, it is very cheap. Many of the famous local delicacies, such as tiger-fish soup, spicy fried shrimp, ginger-spotted crab, steamed sea oyster and steamed fish with plums, use ingredients that were freshly caught offshore or grown locally. The subtropical climate makes it the perfect place for growing a variety of fruits, which make tasty snacks and perfectly complement the salty seafood with their refreshing sweetness.

If you’re feeling particularly brave, you may want to try two of the most popular local delicacies: scalded sand worm and steamed sea cucumber. Although these dishes may look like something out of a science fiction movie, they are actually quite delicious! If you want to sample the freshest seafood in the city, we recommend heading to Seafood Island (Waisha) on the northern shore, where there are many small restaurants offering a variety of tantalising dishes and snacks. The night markets that pop up throughout the city at dusk also offer a myriad of exotic dishes to suit every palate.

Since Beihai is one of the lesser known tourist cities in China, accommodation there is still relatively cheap. There are a number of hotels and hostels of varying standards scattered through the city, although we strongly recommend you pay extra to get a room with an air conditioner. Many hotel owners will still barter with visitors, so take a look at the room first and then try to bargain with the hotelier. You never know, they might be so impressed with your bargaining skills that they’ll give you the room for free!

The Li River

The Li River, also known as Lijiang, is probably the most famous scenic spot in all of Guangxi. It is so prominent that a tableau of the Li River is featured on the Chinese 20 Yuan note. The river is surrounded by Karst Mountains, which boast such unusual shapes and verdant greenery that they have an almost mythical appearance. The Li River has become one of Guangxi’s most popular tourist attractions and a number of different river cruises are now available, allowing visitors to experience the majesty of the Karst Mountains first-hand.

Many of these cruises focus on the stretch of river between the city of Guilin and Yangshuo County Town, which is about 83 kilometres (52 miles) long. They usually start at Zhujiang Wharf, which is about 40 minutes’ drive from Guilin, and can take upwards of 4 to 5 hours to reach Yangshuo. The scenery between Guilin and Yangshuo is truly stunning and many of the scenic spots, such as Elephant Trunk Hill, have been given special names based on their appearance or on legends that relate to them. If you take a tour on one of the many luxury cruise ships leaving from Zhujiang Wharf, your guide will undoubtedly treat you to a few of the delightful fairy tales and myths behind some of these scenic spots.

Li river rmbAs you travel along the Li River, you’ll notice wild and domestic water buffalo grazing on the riverbanks or swimming in the river, farmers with their conical hats working on the rice paddies, and a unique type of fisherman found only in Guangxi. These ingenious fishermen use cormorants to fish for them, which they train from birth. These large, black waterfowl dive into the rushing water, swimming underneath the surface and snapping up fish. They then return to the boat, where the fisherman pulls the fish out of their gullets. The fisherman will have tied a fine thread around the cormorant’s throat, which is what stops it from swallowing the fish. Once the fishing is complete, the fisherman will release the tie on the cormorant’s throat and reward it with a few small fish. Normally one fisherman will be accompanied by two cormorants and will traverse the river using a slim, bamboo raft. Unfortunately this type of fishing is a dying art and is now primarily used to attract tourism rather than as an effective means of fishing.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to take such a long cruise, you can always head straight to Yangshuo and take one of the simple bamboo raft cruises up a small portion of the Li River. This usually only takes a couple of hours at most and still provides many wonderful views of the Karst Mountains and popular scenic spots along the river.

Enjoy the beautiful Li River on our travel: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Mount Hua

According to legend, the Queen Mother of the West was holding her Flat Peach Carnival when she accidentally spilled some of her jade wine down from paradise, which caused a colossal flood here on earth. The flood destroyed all of the villages in the Huashan area so the deity Shaohao informed the Jade Emperor of the disaster. The Jade Emperor promptly sent the deity Juling to earth to stem the flood. As Juling descended from the clouds he rested his left hand on one side of the peak and his right leg on the other, which ripped the mountain into two halves and allowed the floodwater to rush out. His handprint supposedly remains on the Immortal’s Palm Peak, which sits high up on Mount Hua.

Standing at an impressive 2,100 metres (7,070 ft.) at its highest peak, it is no wonder that Mount Hua is listed as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. It is located approximately 120 kilometres east of Xi’an, near a city called Huayin. It sits at the eastern end of the Qin Mountains and is made up of five peaks. Although the mountain is undoubtedly a phenomenal natural specimen, it is more well-known in China for its spiritual and religious significance. Each of its five peaks has an intricately woven folktale behind it, which is intertwined with the Chinese mythology that is now known to be part legend and part historical fact. To the locals and to the average visitor, Mount Hua has an unmistakably mystical feel about it. If you’re looking for somewhere where you can embrace your spirituality and discover more about the fascinating schools of thought behind Chinese philosophy, then a trip to Mount Hua is a must.

The five main peaks of the mountain are simply named East Peak, South Peak, West Peak, Central Peak, and North Peak, with South Peak being the highest and North Peak being the lowest.

Every peak has inherited a second name according to its features or the legendary stories behind it.

Central Peak is known as Jade Maiden Peak. The story behind its name is a perfect example of how Chinese legend has become inseparably intertwined with history. There is a Taoist Temple at the top of this peak called the Jade Maiden Temple. Legend has it that the daughter of Duke Mu of Qin[1] (569 – 621 BC) loved a man who was talented at playing the tung-hsiao[2]. In order to avoid this temptation and cultivate her spirituality, she gave up the royal life she had become accustomed to and became a hermit, secreting herself on the Central Peak of Mount Hua. From then on, the temple was established and the peak was named Jade Maiden Peak after the Duke’s daughter. Near to the Jade Maiden Temple you will also find the Rootless Tree and the Sacrificing Tree, which also have mystical stories behind them that add to the ethereal feel of Central Peak.

Unfortunately not every story behind each peak is quite so magical. The South Peak is called Landing Wild Geese Peak simply because, according to legend, geese returning from the south often landed on this peak. It is home to the beautiful Black Dragon Pool and the Baidi Temple or Jintian Palace, a Taoist Temple that is nationally considered the host temple of the deity Shaohao. South Peak is also the site of the infamous Plank Road, a plank path built along the side of a vertical cliff that is only about 0.3 metres (about 1 foot) wide and forces the intrepid hiker to look down at the almost bottomless gulf below them. Although there is a chain running along the cliff-face that hikers can clip themselves on to, the experience of creeping along the narrow path and having to constantly hook and unhook yourself from your only safety net, so to speak, is only for the bravest of travellers.

Like South Peak, North Peak is rather simply named Cloud Terrace Peak because the clouds that accumulate around the peak look like a flat terrace. It looks so uncanny that you might get the impression you could almost step out onto the clouds. On one side of the peak is the Ear-Touching Cliff, which is so narrow that you supposedly have to press your ear to the cliff-face to climb it. Although this may seem like a joke, it is important to note that some of the paths on Mount Hua, such as the infamous Plank Road, are notoriously treacherous. The government has tried to put in as many safety measures as it can to make them safer but it is advised that you take the risks into careful consideration before venturing out onto the more dangerous paths. Historically there have been fatalities on these paths when visitors have not been careful or not heeded the warnings.

The West Peak is called the Lotus Flower Peak because there is a Taoist Temple there called Cuiyun Palace which has a huge rock in front of it that looks like a lotus flower. There are seven other rocks by Cuiyun Palace that are supposedly the site where the legendary hero Chenxiang ripped the mountain apart to save his mother, the Heavenly Goddess San Sheng Mu, in the folktale “The Magic Lotus Lantern”.

The East Peak, also known as Facing Sun Peak, is the best place to watch the sunrise and takes approximately 4 to 6 hours to climb. It is home to the famous Immortal’s Palm Peak mentioned earlier. Immortal Palm’s Peak is ranked as one of the Eight Scenic Wonders of the Guanzhong Area and is so-called because of the natural rock veins on the cliff, which look like a giant handprint and were supposedly caused by the deity Juling when he fell from heaven.

As early as the 2nd century B.C., it was recorded that a Taoist temple named the Shrine of the Western Peak rested at the base of the mountain. Taoists believed that the god of the underworld lived inside the mountain and this temple was used primarily by spirit mediums to contact this god and his underlings. Unlike Mount Taishan, which attracted many pilgrims, Mount Hua only seemed to attract Imperial pilgrims or local pilgrims due to its relative inaccessibility. Historically this earned it the reputation of being a retreat only for the hardiest of hermits, regardless of what religion they followed, as only those who were particularly strong-willed or spiritually enlightened could master the treacherous climb. Nowadays there are a number of temples and religious structures littered throughout the mountain, including a Taoist temple atop the Southern Peak that has been converted into a teahouse. At the foot of the mountain you’ll also find Xinyue Temple and the Jade Spring Temple. The sheer number of temples and religious constructions on and around the mountain demonstrate just how spiritually significant it is.

With all of the myths, history and spirituality behind it, Mount Hua has truly lived up to its reputation as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. When climbing the mountain and visiting the many temples on its peaks, you’re guaranteed not only beautiful scenic views but also a sense of spiritual calmness.

Xinyue Temple

Xinyue Temple rests at the bottom of Mount Hua. It was built to honour the god that is believed to live inside the mountain and was constructed during the reign of Emperor Wudi of the Western Han Dynasty (206 B.C. – 24 A.D.). Its stunning appearance and monumental size have earned it the name “The Forbidden City of Shaanxi Province”. Important scenic spots in Xinyue Temple include Haoling Gate, Five-Phoenix Pavilion, Lingxing Gate, Golden City Gate, Haoling Palace, the Emperor’s Study, and Longevity Pavilion. In the Five-Phoenix Pavilion there is a place called the Small Steles Forest where there are many impressive steles[3], including one of the most famous steles in the world: the Huashan Monument.

The Jade Spring Temple (Yuquan Temple)

The Jade Spring Temple is a Taoist temple that rests at the foot of Mount Hua. Its main function is to hold Taoist activities and to allow its monks to practice Taoism. It was built by Jia Desheng during the Northern Song Dynasty (960 – 1127) to honour his teacher Chen Tuan[4] (871 – 989). Its name originates from a charming tale about a girl named the Golden Fairy Princess. Supposedly the Golden Fairy Princess was washing her hair beside the Jade Well on Mount Hua when she accidentally dropped her beautiful jade hair clasp into the well. She searched far and wide for her precious hair clasp but to no avail. Miraculously, as she was washing her hands with the spring water at the temple, she found her lost jade hair clasp. Since this spring was connected to the Jade Well, the princess decided to name the temple the Jade Spring Temple. Important scenic spots at this temple include the Long Corridor of Seventy-two Windows, which is a unique construction among Taoist temples across China.

[1] Duke Mu of Qin: He was the fourteenth ruler of the Zhou Dynasty State of Qin.

[2] Tsung-hsiao: A kind of Chinese flute that is held vertically rather than horizontally.

[3] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

[4] Chen Tuan: He was a famous scholar and hermit of the Quanzhen branch of Taoism. He helped to combine elements of Quietism, Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism, which greatly aided the development of neo-Confucianism.

Join our travel to challenge the Mount HuaExplore the Silk Road in China and Explore Chinese Culture through the Ages

Guangxi Local Snacks

Since Guangxi is in the south of China, many of its local snacks contain rice. However, the locals of Guangxi have become rather innovative with their rice and have managed to adapt it into a variety of forms, all of which are delicious and incredibly filling. These snacks are so popular that they are found throughout China but are particularly prolific in Guangxi, where local recipes have been honed to perfection. Most of these “snacks” are actually large enough to constitute a whole meal, but we’re sure even a large helping of these tasty treats won’t be enough once you’ve tried them!

Guilin Rice Noodles (桂林米粉)

Guilin Rice Noodles

Guilin rice noodles are considered one of the Four Treasures of Guilin and this is mainly because, in spite of being a snack, they somehow pack in more flavour than a festival banquet! Recipes for Guilin noodles have been refined over thousands of years and the history of this dish dates all the way back to the Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.). According to legend, during his reign, Qin Shi Huang sent some of his soldiers down south to help integrate the southern provinces. In the north, these soldiers were used to their staple diet of noodles and found the rice-based meals of southern China unpalatable. In order to combat this problem, the Army General found a way of powdering the rice down into flour, which he then used to make noodles. These rice noodles became so popular with the locals that, long after the army left, they continued to be a staple dish in southern China.

These thick rice noodles come in two varieties: round-shaped and flat-shaped. They are usually served with a sumptuous broth, which is the key ingredient of Guilin noodles. The broth is boiled for several hours and contains a multitude of ingredients, such as dried tangerine peel, cinnamon, and ginger, but there is currently no exact recipe for Guilin noodles. Vendors will each have their own, unique recipes for the broth, some of which contain upwards of 20 ingredients, and they guard these recipes fiercely. Thus far, no vendor has disclosed its recipe to the public so, if you want to try this tantalising dish, you must go to the source! The noodles are typically sprinkled with shreds of tender beef, pork or horse meat and served with a range of garnishes, including pickled white radish, pickled green beans, crushed chillies, garlic, chopped spring onion, coriander, soy sauce and many more.

Changfen (肠粉)

changfen

Although changfen is a Cantonese-style dish, it is a popular snack in Nanning and variations on the traditional recipe abound in the city. The history of the dish stretches back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and, with its mouth-watering sauciness, it’s easy to see why it has remained popular for so long. In English, it is sometimes referred to as steamed vermicelli roll or rice noodle roll. The first step is to get a well-balanced mixture of rice flour, glutinous rice flour and water, and spread the mixture thinly onto a steel tray. This mixture must be exact because otherwise the “skin” of the changfen will be too chewy, too gummy or too thick. The mixture is then steamed until it forms the “skin”. This skin is thinner than the skin used to make dumplings and it has more elasticity.

The skin is then covered in a variety of fillings, including tender minced beef, pork and chopped green onions, and dried or fresh shrimp, which are further steamed until cooked through. The cooked filling is rolled up into the skin to form a cylinder. The perfect changfen should be a little transparent, so you can just see the filling inside the roll. A liberal helping of sweet, aromatic soy sauce is poured over the changfen and it is served, sometimes with a splash of plain or flavoured oil to add a touch of excitement. The skin of the changfen will generally taste the same but the filling and sauce will differ widely between vendors. Changfen are characterised by their juicy, moist flavour, which is both salty and a little sweet.

Zongzi (粽子)

zongzi

This traditional snack is popular throughout China but is prolific in Guangxi and other regions of South China. The making of zongzi is usually a family activity and methods for making them will be passed down through generations. Although zongzi are available year-round, they are traditionally eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival. This festival takes place in honour of the poet Qu Yuan, who committed suicide by throwing himself into the Miluo River. Zongzi are designed to resemble the rice packets that were thrown into the river to distract the fish and deter them from eating his body. Tragic though it may seem, during festival time the Chinese people eat zongzi to commemorate this noble man’s sacrifice.

In English, zongzi are sometimes referred to as rice dumplings or sticky rice dumplings, but this doesn’t accurately convey what they actually are. Zongzi are made using glutinous rice, which is first lightly cooked by stir-frying it or soaking it in water for an extended period of time. The glutinous rice is then carefully wrapped in bamboo leaves, although some variations include using lotus, maize, or banana leaves to give the rice a slightly different flavour.

Along with the rice, a variety of fillings can be added to make the zongzi savoury or sweet. In southern China, savoury fillings such as salted duck egg, pork belly, taro, shredded pork or chicken, pork fat, and shiitake mushrooms are popular. However, it is not uncommon to come across sweet zongzi, which include ingredients such as sweet red bean paste or sweet taro paste. Peanuts are usually added to both savoury and sweet zongzi. The filled leaves are carefully wrapped into a tetrahedral or conical shape and tied using twine or strips of leaf. The zongzi are then steamed or boiled for anywhere between twenty minutes to several hours, depending on how well-cooked the rice was before it went into the zongzi. Once cooked thoroughly, the zongzi are removed and left to cool. They disseminate an inviting aroma and serve as the perfect comfort food year-round.

 

Taste some authentic Guangxi Local Snacks on our travel: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Guangxi Cuisine

Guangxi cuisine is an anomaly amongst Chinese cuisines in that it is known for borrowing elements of other styles of cuisine rather than having its own distinct flavour. It is sour, but not as sour as Hunan cuisine. It is light, but not as light as Cantonese cuisine. It is spicy, but not as spicy as Sichuan cuisine. This diversity is due to the fact that Guangxi has been heavily influenced by Cantonese culture in neighbouring Guangdong province and by the numerous resident ethnic minorities, such as the Zhuang, Yao, Dong, Miao and Bai people, to name but a few.

However, unlike many other southern Chinese styles, Guangxi is distinguished by its frequent use of noodles instead of rice. Though rice is served with every meal, as is the tradition in the south of China, many of the signature dishes in Guangxi are made using rice noodles. Guangxi signature dishes have also been heavily influenced by the Li River, which is the source of many key ingredients. From hearty river snails to fat, fleshy river fish, when you’re in Guangxi a taste of the Li River is always on the menu.

Stuffed River Snails (阳朔酿田螺)

Stuffed River Snails

These are not your average, garden-variety snails. Locals say that snails found in the Li River are so huge that they could be mistaken for ping pong balls. Though this snail dish may seem a little off putting to Western sensibilities, it is a true labour of love that tastes far better than you’d imagine. The snails are first disgorged in clean water in order to remove any of the grit from within the shell. The snails are then quickly steamed in their shells before the snail meat is removed and finely chopped along with fresh mint, garlic, chillies and a small helping of pork. This aromatic mixture is delicately spooned back into the snail shells and cooked to perfection. This dish is full of punchy, refreshing flavours, from the strong mint to the fiery chillies right through to the rich, meaty flavour of the snails. Don’t let the content put you off, stuffed river snails are a must-try in Guangxi!

Beer Fish (啤酒鱼)

Beer Fish

This signature dish comes directly from the county town of Yangshuo and is arguably the most famous dish in that region. The local flavours in this dish make it impossible to replicate anywhere else, and this adds to its rustic charm. First, a catfish weighing between 1 to 1.5 kilograms is sourced from the Li River. Many restaurants in Yangshuo will keep a hefty number of these catfish in large freshwater tanks so that the freshness of the fish is retained and diners can choose which fish they want. The fish is then gutted and cut in half but the scales are left on. It is fried in camellia oil until the scales are a crispy golden brown and the tender, white flesh is cooked through.

The cooked fish is then boiled in a mixture of water, local Liquan beer, tomatoes, chillies, ginger, and other vegetables. The locals maintain that the fish must be cooked using water from the Li River and Liquan brand beer, or else you risk losing the dish’s distinctive flavour. When this soup has reduced, the dish is ready to serve. In spite of the copious amounts of beer and chillies in the soup, the dish has a noticeably sour taste. The heat from the chillies is just enough to give the soup some punch, but it is the soup’s wonderful tanginess that complements the crispy, tender fish perfectly.

Luosifen (螺蛳粉)

luoshifen

Luosifen is a popular dish from Liuzhou that is renowned for its unusual, spicy flavour. The broth used in luosifen has been painstakingly made over a period of several hours. This broth is made by stewing river snails and pork bones with black cardamom, fennel seed, dried tangerine peel, cassia bark, cloves, white pepper, bay leaf, liquorice root, sand ginger, and star anise. This effusion of ingredients creates an aromatic mix that will both tantalise and confuse the senses. When it comes to luosifen, you’re never quite sure exactly what it tastes of but you know it tastes great.

The soup is not actually served with any of the snail meat, but instead comes with a hefty portion of pickled vegetables, tofu skin, fresh green vegetables, peanuts, and chillies. The broth is then poured over thick, hearty rice noodles and served with a choice of garnishes, including crushed chillies, garlic, soy sauce, and coriander. This dish was originally only served in small, “hole-in-the-wall” type restaurants but its growing popularity means it can now be found in many luxury restaurants across Guangxi and even in some other big cities, such as Beijing and Shanghai. If you fancy a dish that will rouse all of your senses, luosifen is the one for you!

Lipu Taro Looped Meat (荔浦芋头扣肉)

Lipu Taro Looped Meat

This dish is traditionally served as part of a banquet or on festival occasions, although now it is widely available in restaurants throughout Guangxi. Like Beer Fish, this dish has a distinct local flavour thanks to its locally sourced ingredients. Taro is a type of yam popular in China and known for its characteristically purple flesh. The taro in this dish must be sourced from Lipu County, which is about 104 kilometres south of Guilin, as it is supposedly the best in all of Guangxi. This taro is combined with pork belly, pepper, garlic, fermented bean curd, wine, honey and several other seasonings to form a dish that is rich and full of flavour.

The taro and the pork belly are first deep-fried separately in vegetable oil until they are both golden brown and the succulent fat of the pork is tantalisingly crispy. The taro and pork belly are then combined, along with the other ingredients, and cooked in a large pot or pressure cooker until the sauce is thick and the aroma is irresistible. The glazed slices of delicious pork belly and the soft, spongy flesh of the taro combine perfectly to create a truly delicious, filling dish.

 

Taste some authentic Guangxi Cuisine on our travel: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Yunshuiyao

yunshuiyao 01

Located in the south of Fujian province, Yunshuiyao is a peaceful and beautiful village with hundreds of years of history behind it, particularly with reference to the Jian clan. It is reminiscent of the legendary “Shangri-la” in its appearance and atmosphere. Most of the buildings in the village are clay houses that were built during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), including a big Ancestral Hall for the Jian family. There are several banyan trees on the riverside that are hundreds of years old. One of them is the biggest banyan tree in Fujian Province and has branches that are more than 30 meters long.

There are two famous Tulou nearby:

huaiyuan lou 01Huaiyuan lou

Huiyuan lou was built in 1909 and is a typical example of a Tulou that follows the “connected rooms” design. Because of its short history, the whole building is well preserved and thus serves as a good example of what a circular Tulou should look like.

Huaiyuan lou is four storeys high and has a diameter of 38 meters. Each of its floors has 34 rooms. Nowadays there are still 60 people living inside this Tulou.

Hegui lou01Hegui lou

Hegui lou is a very typical rectangular Tulou. It was built in 1732 and follows the “connected rooms” design. Hegui lou was originally four-storeys high. In 1864 it was destroyed by robbers during an attack, and it was subsequently rebuilt as a five-storey Tulou. The main structure of the new compound follows that of a rectangular Tulou and it has 24 rooms on each of its five floors. A hall in the yard is connected to the Ancestral Hall in the main building. There is also now a front yard to provide more space for residents.

 

Yunshuiyao is one of the many wonderful stops on our travel: Explore the distinctive Tulou(Earthen Structure)

 

Beijing Instant-boiled mutton or Beijing Mutton Hotpot

 

instant-boiled mutton

The pot is made from copper and has a coal-burning stove incorporated into its base, which is used to heat the pot and thus the soup inside of the pot. The soup in which the mutton is boiled is considered very good for your general health because of the herbs that are used in it.

Mutton and beef slices are the most commonly chosen types of meat for the hotpot. Fresh mutton has a richer flavour and is more expensive than frozen mutton. Besides mutton and beef, cow stomach, fish, tofu and vegetables are also popular choices for hotpot ingredients. Noodles are generally left to be boiled towards the end of the meal, but some people prefer to use rice cakes instead.

羊肉片02The sauce that you dip the meat into before eating it also plays an important role in the flavour of the dish. The sauce is usually a mixture of sesame seed oil, chilli oil, flowers from the Chinese chive and minced scallion.

Beijing hotpot is different from Sichuan hotpot, which is the most famous style of hotpot in China. Sichuan hotpot usually uses a spicy soup as its base and is cooked using a small electric cooker. The traditional Beijing hotpot, on the other hand, uses a milder soup as its base and is cooked using a coal burning stove.

 

Join our tour to taste Beijing Mutton Hotpot: Explore Chinese Culture through the Ages