Weizhou Island

The magnificent Penglai Island is a legendary place in the East China Sea, where fairies dance about the forests and immortal Tai Chi masters roam the mountains. It is an island where, if you’re lucky, you too can achieve immortality. Throughout history many powerful leaders, including Qin Shi Huang, wasted countless resources and spent their lives searching for this mythical place. If only they’d gone to the South China Sea first, then they’d have found Weizhou Island, a real paradise on earth! Weizhou was formed over 10,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions, making it the youngest and largest volcanic island in China. It is just 67 kilometres (about 36 nautical miles) from Beihai City Port and, like Beihai, benefits from luxuriously hot subtropical weather.

The island is only 6.5 kilometres from north to south, and 6 kilometres from east to west, but its unspoiled natural landscapes and thriving wildlife make it an idyllic place to relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The splendid coral reefs in the waters, rigid pines of the forest and plump cacti blanketing the cliffs make for a sumptuous visual feast. It’s no wonder that people thought the island was a mythical place! Over thousands of years, the numerous volcanic eruptions that have taken place on the island have helped produce unusual landforms, such as the cliffs near Nanwan Port. However, don’t be plagued by nightmarish visions of lava! There hasn’t been an eruption on Weizhou for over 7,000 years.

Considering Weizhou was formed by fire and brimstone, it seems rather odd that it is home to two of the first Catholic churches ever built in China. From 1869 to 1879, French missionaries set about building a Gothic-style Catholic church in the small fishing village of Shengtang, which is now referred to as the Weizhou Catholic Cathedral. Once it was completed, they built the Saint Maria Church in Chengzai village, meaning that you never have to go too far for Sunday Mass on this small island! These churches were built using a special type of coral rock, giving them an extraordinarily unique appearance. They are now open to visitors, although the Catholic Cathedral in Shengtang is considered the most popular. The sight of this western-style cathedral, located alongside the eastern-style Sanpo Temple, aptly portrays how international these fishing villages have become, thanks in part to tourism and in part to the historical Maritime Silk Road.

If you’re feeling a little less holy and a little more hellfire, you can always take a trip to the Volcanic Park just west of Nanwan Port. The park boasts a variety of unusual volcanic formations, including Crocodile Hill, Pirate’s Cave, and Moon Bay. There’s also a lovely little Geological Museum where visitors can learn more about how the island was formed and what types of fossils they may find scattered throughout the park.

Since it is an island, Weizhou is not without its fair share of beaches. West Beach, with its soft sand, sparkling waters, and fresh seafood barbecues, is widely considered to be the finest on the island. It’s the ideal place to enjoy a refreshingly cold beverage, frolic in the sand, indulge in some snorkelling, or go diving with an instructor and marvel at the sparkling coral reefs. You can even book a space on a glass-bottomed boat and admire the marine life from the safety of your seat. However, it is important to note that there are no lifeguards on the beach so you must be very careful when swimming or taking part in other water-sports. Along with West Beach, the Multi-coloured Beach on the east coast is not without its charm. When the sun rises on this volcanic stone beach, the sunlight reflecting off of the wet, crimson rocks looks truly spectacular.

Fishing is the main source of income for many of the locals, but there are also plentiful banana plantations littered throughout Weizhou. We recommend hiking or renting a bicycle from one of the hostels so you can explore the island and take some photographs. Just be sure not to slip on those banana peels! Once you’ve worked up a healthy appetite, you can retire to one of the villages and sample some of the freshest seafood dishes in Guangxi. There are many small eateries and restaurants scattered throughout the island and, since seafood is abundant in Weizhou, most dishes are incredibly cheap. They only vary in price depending on the rareness of the seafood, what the catch of the day is, and what the weather conditions have been like, so having dinner may start to feel like seafood roulette!

Weizhou can be easily reached from Beihai port via ferry, which departs daily at 8.30am, 11.15am, 4.00pm and 5.30pm, and takes approximately 3 hours. There are reasonably regular return ferries to Beihai or, alternatively, you could stay in one of hostels on the island. These hostels are of good quality and private, air-conditioned rooms are usually available on request.

Xieyang Island

Xieyang Island is 9 nautical miles to the southwest of Weizhou and is only a twelfth of the size. There is one small path, which leads from the north side of the island to the south, and only about 100 people call this small, isolated place home. The island has become famous for its myriad of exotic birds and its tranquil forests. Visitors to Weizhou can rent a boat to Xieyang and admire the simple, unchanged lifestyle of its locals.

Beihai Silver Beach

Who can resist a day out at the beach? The sun on your back, the soothing sound of the waves, the glittering soft sand beneath your feet, it’s the ideal way to spend a hot summer’s day. Yet, for most of us, a trip to the beach means a long drive spent anxiously waiting for the cool sea breeze and the first sweet taste of ice cream. In Beihai, Silver Beach is only 10 kilometres away from the city centre! Silver Beach is celebrated as the greatest beach in China and boasts rare grey-white quartz sand, which gives it its distinctive silvery appearance. Sparkling in the sunlight, both the silvery sands and crystal clear waters look far too tempting to pass up. After one day at Silver Beach, you may just scrap your retirement plans in Hawaii and decide to move to Beihai instead!

This wonderful white beach stretches 24 kilometres along the southernmost coast of China and varies from 30 metres to about 300 metres in width. Its popularity is in part due to its renowned safety, as the waves are particularly gentle and there are no sharks or other harmful wildlife in the water. This makes it an ideal place for parents to bring their children, as the beach is a safe haven for adults and youngsters alike. The beach is split into three sections: Beihai Silver Beach Park, Beihai Beach Park and Qiaogang Beach. The two beach parks have an admittance fee but the beach itself is free. These parks boast unusual buildings, a children’s swimming pool, a marine biology museum, an open-air dance floor, and even an exotic bird exhibit. If the beach just isn’t exciting enough for you or you’ve been out in the sun so long that you’re starting to look a bit like a lobster, you might want to take a stroll around the beach parks and enjoy the various attractions on offer.

In the middle of the beach, there’s a bridge that appears to go nowhere. This bridge is known as Fairy Bridge or Immortal Bridge. According to legend, a Japanese monk had come to China on a pilgrimage and happened to be walking along Silver Beach when all of a sudden he saw a rainbow drop out of the sky. The shimmering rainbow landed in the middle of the beach and, from a distance, the monk could see two figures stood on the rainbow discussing something. The monk rushed towards the rainbow but, before he could reach the talking figures, the rainbow vanished, leaving behind only this bridge. The monk supposedly spent the rest of his days praying at this bridge, hoping to catch another glimpse of the mysterious figures. That being said, we don’t recommend spending your day out praying at the bridge.

On top of sun-bathing and swimming, Silver Beach hosts a myriad of activities that are sure to tempt you. You can indulge in a little volleyball on the sand, go snorkelling in the clear blue waters, catch the adorable sand crabs as they skitter out of their holes, or go-cart along the seafront. If you fancy passing a more leisurely day, the beach is lined with several kiosks, shops, and restaurants. Here you can purchase small souvenirs, sample some of the freshest seafood delicacies, or simply enjoy an ice cream as you watch the other visitors frolic on the sand. Just be sure not to drop your ice cream, or the sand crabs might just pinch it!

Yunnan Local Snacks

In most provinces the snacks are so complex and contain so many ingredients that they invariably appear to us like full sized meals, whereas in Yunnan the local snacks are characterised by their tasteful simplicity. From Dali to Lijiang, each county in Yunnan boasts its own unique snacks and usually they are the result of ethnic minorities who have adapted their cooking styles over decades. While the local Tibetan people have a preference for yak’s milk yogurt, the Bai ethnic minority love cheese, and the Naxi people have a fondness for seasoned flatbreads. This incredible variety means you’ll never be at a loss to find a tasty titbit once your stomach starts rumbling!

Xuanwei Ham (宣威腿)

Xuanwei Ham

Xuanwei Ham is one of China’s top three most famous ham dishes and, once you catch the scent of this sweet salty meat, we’re sure you’ll see why. This type of ham originates from Xuanwei County in northeastern Yunnan and has a history of over 250 years. It is normally cured during the winter and left to ferment for upwards of half a year! The ham comes from the local Wumeng hogs, which provide perfectly marbled meat that is both salty and sweet without being oily or greasy. The ham itself is incredibly adaptable and can be stir-fried, deep-fried, steamed or added to a stew. In some parts of Yunnan, even the moon cakes are stuffed with Xuanwei ham and are heartily enjoyed during Mid-Autumn Festival. It is mainly used to add flavour to other dishes or to make broth, but makes a sumptuous snack in its own right.

Rushan (乳扇)

Rushan

Rushan is almost exclusively found in Dali Prefecture and originates from the Bai ethnic minority. It is made using a type of cow’s milk cheese that is flat and has a somewhat leathery texture, giving it the appearance of a folding fan. This is what earned it the name “rushan”, which literally means “milk fan”. The slivers of cheese are usually fried or grilled and then wrapped around a stick, resembling a popsicle. Sweet condiments will then be spread on the cooked cheese, such as sweetened condensed milk, rose petal infused honey, chocolate syrup, or fruit preserves. The finished product is mouth-wateringly crispy and the strong, milky flavour of the cheese is perfectly complimented by the thick sweetness of the condiments. Once you’ve felt these flaky strips of cheese melt in your mouth, we’re certain you’ll be a “milk fan” too!

Rubing (乳饼)

Rubing

Like rushan, rubing also originates from the Bai people of Dali Prefecture but is made using a type of goat’s milk cheese. Its name literally means “milk cake” as blocks of this firm, white cheese greatly resemble slices of scrumptious sponge cake. Thick, juicy slices of rubing are pan-fried and then dipped in either a mixture of salt and chilli or sugar depending on your personal preference. In some restaurants, it will even be stir-fried with vegetables in a similar way to stir-fried tofu. The delightful sharpness of the goat’s cheese goes incredibly well with both salty and sweet seasonings, making it a versatile snack that is as filling as it is delicious.

Erkuai (饵块)

Erkuai

Erkuai is a type of rice cake that is made by taking high-quality rice, soaking it in water, steaming it in spring water, and then pounding the cooked rice down into a soft mush using a giant pestle and mortar. This rice mush is hand-kneaded on a wooden board to remove all of the air bubbles and then moulded into its characteristic pillow shape. These soft, plush, doughy cylinders look so comfortable that you’ll be tempted to rest your head on them! Erkuai is a popular staple food throughout Yunnan and is indispensible during their Spring Festival or New Year celebrations. Like Xuanwei Ham, it is an incredibly versatile food and can be boiled, roasted, or even pan-fried.

For breakfast, many locals love nothing more than to roast a few slices of erkuai over a charcoal fire and spread handmade fruit jam over them like a spongy, warm croissant. In restaurants, it is often served stir-fried with a mixture of vegetables, dried red chillies, Sichuan pepper, and salt. On the street, you’ll find it grilled and rolled around a strip of fried dough known as youtiao (油条). This snack can either be served sweet, with a sugary brown sauce and peanuts, or savoury, with a fermented kind of tofu known as lufu (滷腐) and bean sprouts. This comforting snack resembles a burrito and its luxurious layers of flavour are sure to leave you wanting more!

Xizhou Baba (喜洲粑粑)

Xizhou Baba

This style of baba is just one of many found throughout Yunnan and was adapted by the Naxi people of Xizhou town near Dali. Baba is a type of flatbread made from wheat flour dough that has been flattened into a circular shape. The lardy flatbread is then either topped with minced pork and spring onions or filled with sweet red bean paste, and baked in oil until the dough has gone a golden-brown. Its circular shape and use of meaty toppings has earned it the amusing nickname “Xizhou pizza”. The sweet baba taste like plump pastries, while the savoury baba have a pleasant saltiness that accompanies the rich dough perfectly. Though they may not taste exactly like pizza, Xizhou baba are a takeaway snack that you’ll surely miss once you leave Yunnan.

 

 

The Three Parallel Rivers

Taking up only 0.4% of the country’s area yet somehow managing to support 20% of its plant species and 25% of its animal species, the protected areas around the Three Parallel Rivers are some of the most bio-diverse in the world. Altogether 15 protected areas along the three rivers were made into a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2003 because of their biodiversity and phenomenal landforms. The site represents the point where the Yangtze (Jinsha), Mekong (Lancang) and Salween (Nujiang) rivers run parallel for over 300 kilometres. This is rather miraculous in of itself, considering these are the 3rd, 12th and 25th longest rivers in the world respectively and, while the Yangtze eventually flows into the East China Sea at Shanghai, miles away the Mekong empties into the South China Sea at the city of Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam and still further the Salween flows into the Indian Ocean at Moulmein in Burma.

Some of the gorges in these areas boast a depth of over 3,000 metres (9,800 ft.), making them twice as deep as the Grand Canyon! At the bottom of the gorges the climate is sub-tropical, whilst along the top there are mountain ranges sporting over 100 snow-covered mountains that are higher than 5,000 metres (over 16, 400 ft.). With all these different temperature zones, you can see how this area has come to support so many plant and animal species. The protected areas are inhabited by a phenomenal 6,000 species of plants, 173 species of mammals, and 417 species of birds, including red pandas, snow leopards, Lady Amherst’s pheasants, Asiatic wild dogs, and the incredibly rare Gaoligong Pika. The animal species found here are a wonderful mixture of the wildly beautiful and the painfully cute!

Of the many snow-capped mountains littered through the Three Parallel Rivers National Park, the Meili Snow Mountain is considered the most famous. Its tallest peak, Kawagarbo, looms over the surrounding countryside at an elevation of over 6,500 metres (22,100 ft.) and the whole range itself is considered sacred by the local Tibetan monks. As of 2001, it is illegal to climb the mountain as its status as a religious site means it would be sacrilegious to set foot on it. So be sure not to climb it or you’ll be arrest for high treason! If you travel to the town of Shenping in Yunnan, you’ll be rewarded with a stunning view of the mountain range and may even see a few of the Tibetan pilgrims completing their circuit of it on foot.

The Meili Snow Mounta in is part of the eight geographical clusters that make up the national park and each one offers something new to its visitors. The Gaoligong Mountain Area is the most extensive and, as such, features cavernous gorges, dizzying cliffs, bubbling streams, thundering waterfalls, primeval evergreen forests, and settlements of the 25 ethnic minorities that call the area home.

The Yunling Mountain Area is home to the most diverse community of animal species, including the elusive Yunnan golden monkeys that can be found nowhere else on earth. And the Haba Snow Mountain Area boasts a modern oceanic glacier, an Indian azalea forest, alpine lakes, snow-capped mountains, and lava formations. Each of these clusters feels like an ethereal paradise and, with all of these choices on offer, you may never find your way out of the mountains!

From the luxuriant forests to the reddish sandstone Danxia landforms and the verdant alpine meadows, the protected areas of the Three Parallel Rivers represent a visual feast that should not be missed. You can access parts of the national park from the cities of Dali, Lijiang or Shangri-la in Yunnan. Most of the treks can take upwards of a week or more, so say goodbye to your creature comforts and prepare to get a little wild!

The Three Pagodas

Rising up alongside the magnificent Cangshan Mountains, the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple are an architectural wonder that is certainly protected by the gods. In 1925, during what was considered the most severe earthquake ever to hit Dali, only one out of every hundred buildings survived. Yet the Three Pagodas came out unscathed. Over a period of more than a thousand years, these towering monuments have witnessed numerous natural and man-made disasters, and have miraculously remained undamaged to this day. Nowadays they are the must-see tourist attraction in Dali and one of the few enduring remnants of China’s ancient past.

They are located about 1.5 kilometres away from Dali Ancient Town and rest at the foot of Yinglo Peak on the Cangshan Mountains. All three pagodas are made of brick that has been covered in white mud and they are arranged on the three points of a symmetric triangle. It is believed they were built for auspicious reasons as, according to local legends, Dali was once a swamp that acted as a breeding ground for dragons! When humans came to populate the area, they did not want to anger the frisky dragons, as it was well-known that dragons could cause natural disasters, so they built the three pagodas. Why, you ask? Because dragons are terrified of pagodas, of course! The ancient people believed these three pagodas would deter the dragons from returning and, as there hasn’t been a dragon sighting in over 1,000 years, I think we can firmly say that it worked.

The main pagoda at the centre, known as Qianxun Pagoda, is both the oldest and the most magnificent. The Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902) ruled over most of Yunnan during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and King Quan Fengyou of Nanzhao built the pagoda sometime between 823 and 840 AD. At a colossal 70 metres (227 ft.) in height, it is one of the tallest pagodas in Chinese history. It is sixteen storeys high and is distinctly square-shaped, giving it a powerful elegance amongst the looming mountains.

As you marvel at this fine pagoda, it’s hard not to detect its resemblance to the Small Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi’an. Don’t worry; your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you! The designers of Qianxun Pagoda reputedly came from Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an) and this is why the pagoda is built in the traditional Tang-style. Tragically, the ladder that recently provided access to the upper storeys has collapsed so there is currently no way to climb Qianxun Pagoda.

In 1978, during a major restoration project, over 700 Buddhist relics, including statues made of gold, silver, wood and crystal, were found inside the pagoda. A number of ancient Buddhist documents and over 600 traditional medicinal ingredients were also excavated. These artefacts have provided historians with invaluable information about the history of the region, but have failed to answer the most pertinent question; how did so many people manage to miss spotting 700 statues? I could understand walking past a couple of statues without noticing them but not 700!

The two sibling pagodas were both built about 100 years after Qianxun and are each about 43 metres (140 ft.) tall. Unlike their big brother, their architectural style resembles that of the Song Dynasty (960-1279), as they are octagonal in shape and are ten storeys high. Behind the three pagodas, the Juying or “Reflection” Pond mirrors the image of the snow white towers jutting out amongst the mountains. For reasons unknown, one of the smaller pagodas leans slightly to the side and is reminiscent of Italy’s Tower of Pisa. If you fancy getting a fun snapshot of your trip, you can try “holding up” this pagoda in a photograph. You’ll end up with an interesting souvenir, but the other tourists might think you’ve gone a little crazy!

Chongsheng Temple, the pagodas’ mother building, was a Buddhist temple that acted as the royal temple of the Dali Kingdom (937-1253), which ruled the old Nanzhao Empire during both the Tang and Song dynasties. It was originally built around the same time as Qianxun Pagoda but was tragically destroyed during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and had to be rebuilt in 2005. It is now a massive complex that winds its way up the Cangshan Mountains. If hiking isn’t your thing, on the nearby Marble Street you’ll find stalls where you can purchase locally made craftworks, marble carvings or brick-paintings.

Nowadays, tourists can visit both the temple and pagodas at almost any time. During the day, the pagodas rise up through the mist and stand tall, protecting the region from amorous dragons. At night, they are beautifully illuminated and appear almost ethereal, like towers from long forgotten fairy tales. If you’re taking a trip to Dali, set aside a few hours to make the trip and marvel at one of the last vestiges of the ancient Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms.

Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture

As an area of both extreme ethnic diversity and biodiversity, the prefecture of Xishuangbanna is one of the last known refuges of both the Jinuo ethnic minority and the rare Asian elephant. Although its full name, Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, suggests that it is dominated by the Dai ethnic minority, this is far from the truth. The Dai people only account for 30% of the 990,000 strong population and the prefecture in fact supports 13 of China’s 56 resident ethnic minorities. From the Jinuo people, who are peculiar to the prefecture, right through to the mysterious Blang people, cultures of all kinds have found their niche in this tropical paradise.

Xishuangbanna shares its borders with Burma and Laos, and its southerly location, coupled with its low altitude, means it benefits from a near tropical climate. In ancient times, the Dai referred to the region as “Mengbanaxi” or “Miraculous Utopia” because, even in winter, it was as hot and balmy as summer. With an average annual temperature of between 18 and 22°C (64.4-71.6°F), the weather is so consistently warm that the locals often say there are only two seasons; dry and rainy. It is often recommended to visit between November and April, during the dry season, but the exceptional condition of the roads means that even a trip during the rainy season is feasible if you want to avoid the tourist crowds. Just be sure to pack an umbrella since, in these temperatures, wearing a raincoat will practically turn you into a walking sauna!

Tropical fruits, herbs, teas, coffee and Yunnan tobacco are all in abundance throughout Xishuangbanna and form part of the rich, lusciously multi-coloured tapestry of the landscape. Some of the highest quality pu’er tea is produced in this region along what are known as the Six Famous Tea Mountains. In a place where even the mountains are famous, you know there will be plenty of stunning attractions to keep you occupied! In Wild Elephant Valley, visitors can stay in hostels near the Mengyang Nature Reserve, 45 kilometres (28 miles) from the prefectural capital of Jinghong, and make their way through virgin forests, occasionally being treated to rare glimpses of China’s only community of Asian elephants. In the Single Tree Forest you can marvel at the nine-hundred-year old banyan tree, which covers an area so large (over 120 square metres or 143.6 square yards) that it is practically a forest in of itself!

Xishuangbanna’s proximity to other Southeast Asian countries means that is has been heavily influenced by Buddhism and much of its architecture reflects this. The magnificent Manfeilong Pagodas, a complex of nine snow-white pagodas in Manfeilong Village, are the perfect place to witness the religion in action. The Water Splashing Festival of the Dai people, a Buddhist festival which normally takes place from the 13th to the 15th of April each year, is held at this complex and represents one of the most popular ethnic minority festivals in China; perhaps because it affords the opportunity to throw buckets of water on your friends! However, if you happen to miss it there’s no need to fret as the Dai Ethnic Garden holds their own Water Splashing Festival every day of the year!

From the Menglun Tropical Botanical Garden to the Mandian Waterfall, from the wild elephants through to the diverse ethnic peoples, Xishuangbanna is undoubtedly an exotic utopia that you don’t want to miss.

The Manfeilong Pagodas

With its golden tip glinting in the blinding sunlight, the main stupa of the Manfeilong Pagodas rises up like a shimmering lighthouse in a sea of rich tropical greenery. Buried in the rainforests of Xishuangbanna, on a hill near Manfeilong Village just 70 kilometres south of Jinghong City, these towering edifices are rumoured to be over 800 years old. Yet for so many years it appears they have been called by the wrong name! They are actually stupas, not pagodas, as a pagoda is a multi-tiered temple or place of worship whilst the Manfeilong Pagodas are hemispherical structures with small interiors designed for storing Buddhist relics and for private meditation. They look like large gourds and so earned the alternate name the “Bamboo Shoot Pagodas” for their striking resemblance to bamboo shoots. That being said, we don’t recommend trying to cut them up as part of a tasty stir-fry!

The site is made up of one central stupa that is approximately 16 metres (52 ft.) in height, with eight smaller stupas surrounding it at about 9 metres (30 ft.) in height. Some say that the main stupa looks like a caring parent surrounded by her bulbous little children! According to Buddhist records, the complex was built in 1204 AD or the year 565 according to the Dai ethnic minority’s calendar. It was originally designed by three Indian Buddhist monks and was sponsored by the chieftain of a local tribe, but has recently been renovated. Today the stupas pure white bricks still shimmer as the sunlight hits their calabash shaped bodies and the bells that dangle from the top of the main stupa still chime sweetly in the wind.

Inside each stupa you’ll find a niche featuring a statue and a relief of Buddha with another niche above it containing a relief of a flying phoenix. The gates of each stupa are topped with engravings of two giant dragons and both the interior and exterior are heavily decorated with sculptures, reliefs, and colourful paintings, all in the style of the Dai ethnic minority. All of these mystical figures combine to give the stupas an ethereal appearance. With dragons guarding the outside and phoenixes keeping watch over the inside, it’s no wonder the Manfeilong Pagodas have survived for so long!

Just to the south of the stupas, you’ll find a large footprint imprinted on a rock. According to local legend, this is the footprint of Sakyamuni[1] and is thus greatly revered by the local people. Both the Manfeilong Pagodas and the nearby Black Pagoda were built in honour of this rock. The Black Pagoda, towering over the Manfeilong Pagodas at 18 metres (59 ft.) in height, is equally famous and has an equally misleading name, as it is now silvery white in colour! It is seven-storeys high and was originally black, but has suffered numerous paint jobs that have now led to the confusion regarding its name.

The Manfeilong Pagodas and the Black Pagoda are dedicated to Hinayana Buddhism, a small branch of the religion that is known for being particularly conservative, and if you visit the Black Pagoda nowadays you’ll still find monks diligently worshipping there. Every year, usually from the 13th to the 15th of April, Dai people from Manfeilong Village gather at the stupas and the pagoda to celebrate the Water Splashing Festival. This Buddhist festival represents the New Year according to the Dai calendar and involves chasing your friends and family while splashing water on them! The Dai people are known for their friendliness and will happily let visitors take part in the celebrations. After all, it’s always better to have more targets in a water fight!

[1] Sakyamuni: One of the titles of Gautama Buddha, the central figure and founder of the Buddhist faith. It is derived from the place named Sakya, which is where he was born.

The Yingxian Wooden Tower

The Yingxian Wooden Tower, also known as the Shakyamuni[1] Pagoda of Fogong Temple, rests just 85 kilometres (53 mi) south of Datong City in western Yingxian County. Having been built without a single nail or rivet, it is a masterpiece of carpentry and the oldest surviving wooden pagoda in the world. It has reached such a level of fame in China that it is now widely referred to simply as “Muta” (木塔) or “Wooden Tower”. At the grand old age of 959, this tower has pushed its woody competitors to the side and taught them to respect their elders!

The tower was originally built in 1056 by Emperor Daozong of the Liao Dynasty (907–1125), which controlled an empire encompassing Mongolia, northern Korea, and northern China, and was established by a nomadic subgroup of Mongolian people know as the Khitans. Emperor Daozong was a devout Buddhist and his father, the preceding Emperor Xingzong, was a native of Yingxian County. This would perhaps explain the isolated location of the tower, as pagodas such as these were normally erected to symbolise the death of Buddha and its placement may have been Emperor Daozong’s way of equating the importance of Buddha’s death with that of his father.

The tower was placed at the centre of Fogong Temple, which was known as Baogong Temple until its name was changed during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). According to local historical documents, from the years 1056 to 1103 it withstood a total of seven earthquakes and, right up until the 20th century, it required only ten minor repairs. Talk about resilient! Unfortunately, it sustained major damage during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945) but, when it underwent the necessary repairs in 1974, renovators uncovered over 50 block-printed and handwritten scrolls of Buddhist sutras[2] dating back to the Liao Dynasty. These scrolls helped historians to finally establish that the use of moveable type printing had indeed spread widely across China after being developed by the Song Dynasty (960-1279). So it seems every cloud really does have a silver lining!

Although the archway, bell tower, drum tower, and shrine to Shakyamuni Buddha were all rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the wooden tower itself is in its original condition and has been stunningly well-preserved. It stands on a 4 metre (13 ft.) high stone platform that is delicately decorated with crawling lion sculptures in the Liao Dynasty style, and it towers in at a height of over 67 metres (220 ft.). Looking at it from the outside, it appears to have only five storeys, but walk inside and you’ll soon realise that there are in fact nine storeys in total. Just when you thought you were going to have a relaxing climb to the top!

An 11-metre-high (36 ft.) statue of Shakyamuni Buddha takes pole position at the centre of the first floor, with an ornate caisson[3] directly above its head. Similar caissons bedeck the ceilings of every storey in the pagoda and its walls are beautifully decorated with vibrant murals and vivid sculptures that all reflect the Liao Dynasty style. There are windows on all eight sides of its top floor that provide stunning views of the surrounding countryside and supposedly, on a clear day, the tower itself can be seen from up to 30 kilometres (19 mi) away!

[1] Shakyamuni: One of the titles of Gautama Buddha, the central figure and founder of the Buddhist faith. It is derived from the place named Sakya, which is where he was born.

[2] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha

[3] Caisson: Also known as a caisson ceiling or zaojing, it is a feature of East Asian architecture commonly seen on the ceilings of temples or palaces, usually at the centre or directly above an object of importance, such as a throne or statue. Generally speaking, it is a sunken square, octagonal, hexagonal, or circular panel set into a flat ceiling that has been richly carved and decorated.

Zhejiang

The name “Zhejiang” literally means “Crooked River” but trust us; there’s nothing crooked about this natural paradise! It derives from the province’s principal river, the Qiantang River, which was historically known as the Zhe Jiang. Since it’s a coastal province that is riddled with numerous rivers large and small, you’re never too far away from water and so its aquatically inspired name seems all too fitting. It is bound by the East China Sea to the east, and its provincial capital of Hangzhou is renowned as one of the most charming cities on earth. With that in mind, we’re sure you’ll all agree that Zhejiang has a pretty strong pedigree when it comes to tourism. After all, who doesn’t love sandy beaches, bubbling canals, and fresh sea air?

As with many coastal provinces, there is a rigid north-south divide when it comes to geography and climate. The northern section of the province, often referred to as Zhebei, rests within the Yangtze River delta and is made up of labyrinthine rivers and canals. South of Hangzhou Bay, the terrain becomes distinctly more mountainous and its rocky coast is littered with more than 18,000 islands. The eastern part of the province is dominated by these mountain ranges, which are a continuation of the ones in Fujian province.

The entrance to Hangzhou Bay itself is incredibly broad, but is obstructed by a cluster of over 400 islands known as the Zhoushan Archipelago. The largest island in the group is Zhoushan, but perhaps the most famous is Mount Putuo, which rests just east of it and is one of the Four Sacred Mountains of Buddhism. It has been a pilgrimage site for centuries, providing Buddhist monks with a place to worship while simultaneously working on their tan!

Zhejiang’s coastal position means it also benefits from a humid subtropical climate, with highs of up to 29 °C (84 °F) in summer. The only marked difference between the north and south is during winter, where temperatures in the north can drop to 4 °C (39 °F) while those on the southern coast maintain a mild 8 °C (46 °F). Springs and summers are profoundly rainy, while winters are short, and autumns are characterised by dry, warm weather.

She MinorityIn terms of people, the vast majority of Zhejiang’s population belongs to the Han ethnic group, although there is a substantial constituency of the She ethnic minority living in the mountainous southern regions.

Before the 8th century BC, western Zhejiang was part of the State of Wu, while its eastern territory belonged to the ancient Yue people. By the 6th century BC, these two sub-regions had developed into fully fledged rival kingdoms and continually warred with one another from 510 through to 473 BC. And you thought your neighbours were bad! The Yue eventually conquered the Wu but were subsequently annexed by the State of Chu in 334 BC, who were in turn subjugated when the State of Qin unified China in 221 BC. Back then, having a kingdom was like playing a game of musical chairs!

During the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280 AD), Zhejiang became part of the State of Dong or “Eastern” Wu and benefited greatly from an influx of northern immigrants, who were fleeing the invading Mongolians. During the Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties, the province was subdivided into Zhexi (Western Zhejiang) and Zhedong (Eastern Zhejiang). Its oldest surviving city, Shaoxing, dates back to around about this time, as it was established during the 6th century.

thousand islands lake 01Lin’an (modern-day Hangzhou) was eventually made the capital of the Song Dynasty and subsequently grew rapidly, reaching an estimated population of nearly one million people by 1275. At around about this time, Marco Polo visited the city and described it as the finest and noblest in the world. High praise indeed! From this point onwards, Zhejiang and its neighbouring Jiangsu province became synonymous with opulence, wealth, and luxury in China. However, modernisation of its cities didn’t truly begin until after the First Opium War (1839–1842), when Ningbo was opened to unrestricted foreign trade as part of a contract between China and Britain known as the Treaty of Nanking. Nowadays this foreign influence can be seen most profoundly in the Western features found in architecture throughout the province.

In its time, Zhejiang spawned numerous famous painters, calligraphers, poets, essayists, philosophers, and historians. Landscape artists Xia Gui and Ma Yuan, novelists Lu Xun and Mao Dun, and poets Xu Zhimo and Ai Qing were all born here. In keeping with this illustrious artistic heritage, the city of Ningbo is home to the Tianyige, the oldest private library in China and one of the Four Famous Libraries of Chinese Classical Literature. The province is also the birthplace of the spectacular Yue style of opera, which was traditionally performed solely by male actors but was switched during the 1930s when all female opera troupes became popular. Evidently the male and female opera singers of Zhejiang just couldn’t compromise!

The province also has a flourishing craft industry and has become nationally renowned for several of its unique products, including the porcelain of Longchuan, silk umbrellas and tapestries from Hangzhou, Longjing or “Dragon Well” green tea from the Hangzhou district, and Huadiao (a type of rice wine) from Shaoxing.

Its other celebrated attractions include Hangzhou’s West Lake, which is considered one of the most scenic places in China; the Qiantang tidal bore, a watery phenomenon of epic proportions; Mount Tiantai, the birthplace of the Tiantai sect of Buddhism; and the Tomb of Yu the Great, the supposed resting place of an ancient Chinese ruler known as Dayu or “Yu the Great”. Just remember while you’re there: they’re calling Yu great, not you great!

Hangzhou

“Above there is heaven; below there is Suzhou and Hangzhou”, so goes the popular Chinese saying. And praise doesn’t get much higher than being described as a heaven on earth! Hangzhou is the provincial capital of Zhejiang and rests on the northern banks of the Qiantang River at the head of Hangzhou Bay. The city is connected to a veritable labyrinth of waterways and canals, the most impressive of which is its position at the southern terminus of the Grand Canal[1]. To its east, the magnificent Tianmu Mountains rise up imposingly, while to the west you’ll find the celebrated Xi or “West” Lake. Thus it is a city resplendent with sparkling waters, verdant gardens, misty mountains, colourful blossoms, and a natural freshness that belies its status as an urban metropolis.

Its name derives from the fact that in 589 AD, during the Sui Dynasty (581-618), it was made the seat of Hangzhou or the “County of Hang”. This entitled it to a city wall and allowed it to expand exponentially, transforming it from a rural town to a city of political importance. With the completion of the Grand Canal in 609, it became one of the major trade hubs linking northern and southern China. During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960), it became the capital of the Wuyue Kingdom (907–978) under the name Xifu and rose to prominence as one of the bastions of southern Chinese culture, alongside Nanjing and Chengdu.

In 1127, when the rulers of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) were forced south by the invading Jurchens[2], they settled in Hangzhou and made it their capital in 1132 under the name Ling’an. It was intended to be a temporary base, but it soon transformed into the commercial and cultural centre of China. By 1276, historians estimate that the city’s population had grown to well over one million, making it the largest city in the world at the time. Evidently the word “temporary” doesn’t mean the same thing to us as it did to the Song emperors! In the late 13th century, during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the city was visited by Venetian explorer Marco Polo, who described it as “the finest and noblest in the world”. So not quite heaven on earth, but still pretty impressive!

Unfortunately, from then on it seemed that Hangzhou’s glory days were finally behind it. From the 14th century onwards, Hangzhou Bay gradually silted up and trading in the city slowly ground to a halt. Yet it wasn’t all downhill, as during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties it was still regarded as a superior prefecture and enjoyed immense wealth as one of the country’s centres for rice-growing and sericulture. This quality has carried through to the modern-day, as it is now renowned for its beautifully woven silk tapestries and umbrellas.

Hangzhou’s illustrious heritage means it boasts some of the country’s most significant historical attractions and has thus become one of the most popular tourist destinations in China. Its most eminent attraction is arguably West Lake, which was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011. This scenic site covers an area of over 33 square kilometres (13 sq. mi), making it nearly eleven times the size of Central Park in New York! It includes some of the most notable historical buildings in the city, from towering pagodas to ancient causeways. At night, the waters come alive with performances of Impression West Lake, a love story that takes place on the lake itself and was masterminded by acclaimed director Zhang Yimou.

Just to the south of West Lake, the imposing five-storey Leifeng Pagoda rises up at the base of Sunset Hill. Its fascinating history stretches all the way back to the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960), when it was built to celebrate the birth of the reigning King Qian Chu’s son. It was supposedly the site of a celebrated Chinese folktale known as Legend of the White Snake, a story about two ill-fated lovers that has inspired Chinese novels, operas, films, and television series for centuries. Yet it seems the pagoda was doomed to suffer a fate as tragic as that of the lovers. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), Japanese pirates set fire to it and destroyed its wooden structure, leaving behind only a brick skeleton. Even the bricks weren’t safe as local people, who believed they had healing properties, would frequently steal them and grind them up into medicine powder. Who needs concrete medical proof when you’ve already got concrete! Tragically this led to the tower collapsing in 1924, but it was reconstructed in 2002 and remains a popular attraction to this day.

About 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) west of West Lake lies Lingyin or “Soul’s Retreat” Temple, which is the oldest Buddhist temple in the city and boasts numerous pagodas, murals, and hand-carved grottoes. Other religious sites, such as the Immaculate Conception Cathedral and the Fenghuang or “Phoenix” Mosque, are not only the oldest of their kind in Hangzhou but also some of the oldest in China.

With such an impressive historical pedigree, it’s no wonder Hangzhou is home to several museums of national importance. The China National Silk Museum, located not far from West Lake, is the largest silk museum in the world, while the China National Tea Museum focuses entirely on different types of tea, tea culture, and the history of Chinese tea. Hangzhou district is particularly famous for its Longjing or “Dragon Well” green tea, which is cultivated in the small village of Longjing and is admired for its subtle flavour. Purchasing any of these fine goods, from packets of high quality tea to finely embroidered silk umbrellas, can be easily done on Hefang Street. This street was designed after traditional Song Dynasty architecture and is a hotspot for locals and tourists alike.

If you want to escape the urban jungle, there are plenty of natural attractions in and around the city. The Qiantang tidal bore, a watery natural phenomenon of epic proportions, can be viewed from the banks of the Qiantang River and, during peak seasons, can reach heights of up to 12 metres (39 ft.)! For a more peaceful aquatic experience, you may want to consider visiting Xixi National Wetland Park, which is a haven for numerous species of birds and fish. That being said, it is a conservation area so don’t try to eat any of them, no matter how plump and juicy they may look!

[1] The Grand Canal: It is the longest canal in the world and starts in Beijing, passing through the provinces of Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang before eventually terminating in the city of Hangzhou. It links the Yellow River to the Yangtze River and the oldest parts of it date back to the 5th century BC, although most of its construction took place during the Sui Dynasty (581-618).

[2] The Jurchens: The Jurchens or Jurcheds were a Tungusic people, an ethnic group that has been acknowledged as distinct from Turkic and Mongolian people. During the 12th century, they took control of northern China and established the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234). By the 17th century, they were known as the Manchu people.