Xizhou

xizhou 01

Xizhou literally means the “happy prefecture” and, if you take one look at its idyllic surroundings, you’ll see why. The town lies on the richly fertile strip of land between Erhai Lake and the Cangshan Mountains, and is only 18 kilometres north of Dali Ancient Town, making it a rural paradise that should not be missed. The town has achieved great renown throughout Yunnan for its beautifully preserved buildings, which are a seamless mixture of Bai ethnic minority and Qing Dynasty style architecture. Over 200 of the households are registered as national cultural relics, which practically makes the town a living museum. And, if that doesn’t tempt you, the locals even have their own kind of pizza!

The town was originally formed by the Yan, Dong, Yang and Zhao clans from the Bai ethnic minority. Many of the mansions scattered throughout Xizhou were founded by these families and the Yan Family Compound has now been converted into a delightful museum. The houses were built based on the Bai concept of “three rooms and one wall screening, four joints and five courtyards”.

The first half refers to the structure of the main house, which will usually have one main room, two side rooms and a “shining wall” that reflects light back into the house at sunset. The second half refers to the four courtyards in the corners of the compound that join the four walls together and the fifth courtyard that sits at the centre. The homes themselves are decorated with hexagonal honeycomb patterns, elaborately carved gateways, colourful paintings, and marble ornaments. They are considered some of the most well-preserved examples of Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) architecture and their Bai ethnic flair is what makes them unique.

But how were these ancient farmers able to build such fine mansions? By becoming rich of course! During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the four clans of Xizhou amassed great wealth through trade. Thanks to the Tea-Horse Road, Bai merchants were able to trade locally sourced tea and marble throughout Asia. The rich merchant families then encouraged their children to pursue a life of academics and many went on to successfully take the imperial examinations. Thus Xizhou rapidly became a community of prosperous merchants, officials and scholars.

When the Qing Dynasty collapsed in 1911, the Bai businessmen didn’t panic; they just kept on trading! Some of these families were so wealthy that they were able to send their children overseas to study. During the second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), the National Army used Xizhou as a stronghold. They successfully protected the town from Japanese soldiers and thus it suffered little damage throughout the war. When many Chinese intellectuals fled to this safe haven, the Huazhong University was established and Xizhou soon came to be known as the “Cambridge of the East”. Thus much of the town’s architecture was saved from destruction and many of its locals went on to become professors in universities around the world. When you consider just how small and isolated Xizhou is, its economic and academic development is truly outstanding.

Nowadays most activity in the town circulates around Sifang Jie, the old town square. There you can find many vendors selling charming souvenirs, such as Bai batik[1] cloth, embroidered clothing, marble ornaments and various antiques. You can also sample many local snacks there, including Yunnan-style barbecue and Xizhou baba (喜州粑粑). Xizhou baba is a lardy flatbread that is either topped with minced pork and spring onions or filled with sweet red bean paste. Its circular shape and use of meaty toppings has earned it the nickname “Xizhou pizza”. Just don’t go asking any of the vendors for stuffed crust or pepperoni!

Part of the town rests on the shores of Erhai Lake, making it the ideal place to go for a swim or simply take in the pleasant scenery. If you fancy a longer stay, the old Yang family compound has been converted into a hotel and is now named the Linden Centre, after its American owners. The hotel also acts as a cultural retreat, running numerous tours throughout the year.

Yan Family Compound

xizhou yan familyThis ancient mansion is considered one of the most characteristic examples of Bai architecture in the town. It once belonged to the Yan family but was donated to the local government and converted into a museum. The “shining wall” of the principal house is adorned with stunning calligraphy, while inside the museum you’ll find many of the precious items signifying the wealth of the Yan clan.

Here you can also to take part in the traditional Three Teas Ceremony. During the ceremony, you drink three cups of tea; the first is bitter, the second is sweet, and the third is a cleansing tea that is bitter, sweet and spicy. The first cup symbolises suffering, the second represents the happiness of overcoming hardship, and the third signifies reflection on the past. Just don’t get too wrapped up in your own spiritual musings, or your tea will go cold!

[1] Batik: A cloth-dying process whereby a knife that has been dipped in hot wax is used to draw a pattern onto the cloth. The cloth is then boiled in dye, which melts the wax. Once the wax has melted off, the cloth is removed from the boiling dye. The rest of the cloth will be coloured by the dye but the pattern under the wax will have remained the original colour of the cloth.

Yunnan Cuisine

With its rich biodiversity and diverse ethnic minority population, Yunnan is a tantalising melting pot of exotic ingredients, vibrant flavours, and ethnic flair. Yunnan cuisine is sometimes referred to as Dian cuisine and is known for its moderately spicy and sour dishes that boast an unexpected sweetness. Each signature dish attempts to preserve the original taste of each ingredient used and this is what makes Yunnan’s style so unique.

Mushrooms and mints feature as a prominent ingredient in many dishes, but other unusual ingredients include flowers, ferns, algae and even insects. Just don’t try to worm your way out of eating these peculiar treats, or you’ll regret it! In the south of Yunnan, the signature dishes have also been heavily influenced by Burmese, Lao and Thai style cuisine, meaning that ingredients such as lime juice, coconut, and palm sugar feature widely. With that in mind, here are just a few examples of what makes Yunnan cuisine so utterly irresistible.

Steam Pot Chicken (汽锅鸡)

Steam Pot Chicken

This dish is particularly striking, as it’s made using an invention that originated from Yunnan. This cooking tool, known as a steam pot, is made of clay and the bottom of the pot has a funnel-shaped opening that goes up through the pot. When it is placed over boiling water, steam travels up the funnel into the pot and, if the pot is covered over, the steam will be trapped inside. Thus it’s an ideal tool for steaming food whilst also sealing in much of the flavour.

Steam Pot Chicken dates all the way back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and was formally discovered by Emperor Qianlong while he was taking a tour of Yunnan. He tasted this time-honoured dish and admired it greatly. The dish itself is relatively simple and chicken is the meat of choice because it steam cooks easily. Chicken is added to the pot, along with rare medicinal herbs that are native to Yunnan. The chicken is then steamed for between three to four hours, until the meat is mouth-wateringly tender and the soup gives off an irresistible aroma. The herbs used vary from restaurant to restaurant, so each dish will be a little different wherever you go!

Crossing the Bridge Noodles (过桥米线)

Crossing the Bridge Noodles

The unusual name of this dish comes from an old Yunnan legend. The most popular version of the story is about a Qing scholar who would retire to an island in the centre of a lake every evening to study for the imperial examinations. His loving wife used to cook him dinner every day, but as she crossed the bridge to the island the noodle soup would go cold. She then hit upon the idea of using fatty chicken to make the broth so that the layer of hot oil covering the soup would keep the heat in. In this way, she was able to deliver a delicious hot meal to her husband each day.

Nowadays, this noodle dish is hugely popular throughout Yunnan and many locals have it regularly for breakfast. In some restaurants, the broth is served separately from the raw ingredients and you cook the dish at your table like a hotpot, while in other restaurants it will all be served together. First the broth is made by boiling a fatty chicken with pig bones. Then meat, such as chicken, pork, liver, fish, or ham, is added to the broth along with an assortment of boiled vegetables. Finally the rice noodles are added and the dish is seasoned with chilli oil, ground peppers, sesame seed oil, and salt to taste. Each vendor will have their own variation on this tempting treat, so be sure to try a few and find the one you love!

Old Granny’s Potato (老奶洋芋)

Old Granny’s Potato

The name “old granny’s potato” comes from a long running joke in Yunnan that this dish is so soft even an elderly person with no teeth could eat it easily! But don’t worry; you won’t have to go all the way to an old folks’ home to find this home-cooked delight. This potato dish can be found in most restaurants throughout Yunnan and is the ideal comfort food, similar to mashed potatoes or bubble and squeak. Cooked potato is first mashed and then stir fried with a selection of seasonings, including garlic, spring onion, dried chillies, and ground Sichuan pepper. Fresh or pickled vegetables, such as pickled mustard, pickled cabbage, fresh carrot, and sweet peppers, are sometimes added depending on preference. The meat-eaters among you can also add Xuanwei ham to the dish, which gives it an extra salty, smoky tang. This dish can be easily adapted to suit anyone’s palate and is so comforting to eat that it feels like a warm hug from a loving granny.

Wild Mushroom Hotpot (野生菌火锅)

Wild Mushroom Hotpot

Every year, from June to September, visitors to Yunnan are greeted with a plethora of delicious, edible mushrooms, for this is the annual mushroom season! Each one is named based on its appearance or taste, ranging from the monkey head mushroom and the cow liver mushroom to the rare and highly prized matsutake or pine mushroom and the fish-flavoured seafood mushroom. These funky fungi are a banquet in of themselves and each boast unique flavours and medicinal qualities. Along Guanxing Road in Kunming there is even a mushroom hotpot street, where small restaurants crop up during mushroom season and serve only their variation on this delicious dish.

As with all hotpots, you’ll first be presented with a large pot containing broth. The broth is boiled at the table and will contain a mixture of seasonings based on that restaurant’s secret recipe. You can then add a selection of raw ingredients, including day lily bulbs, vermicelli, leeks and Chinese lettuce. You will then choose a selection of tasty mushrooms and your waitress will tell you in what order they should be placed in the broth. This is to make sure they are all thoroughly cooked and ready to eat. Some of these wild mushrooms are mildly toxic until they are cooked through, so we strongly recommend following your waitress’ advice carefully. Trying something new makes for a fun risk, but eating a toxic mushroom is not a risk you want to take!

 

 

 

Lanzhou

Lanzhou City

Flanked by the Qilian Mountains to the north and split by the Yellow River at its centre, Lanzhou is a city immersed in its natural surroundings. It is the provincial capital of Gansu province and historically was one of the major trading cities along the ancient Silk Road. With the Maijishan Grottoes to its east, Bingling Temple Grottoes to its west, Labrang Monastery to its south, and Mogao Caves to its north, Lanzhou delivers magnificent historical attractions at every point of the compass!

The city rests deep with the Hexi Corridor, which was a natural passageway that connected China with Central Asia and was thus an integral part of the Silk Road. This corridor was flanked by the misty Qilian Mountains and Tibetan Plateau in the south and the Beishan Mountains and inhospitable Gobi Desert in the north, meaning trading caravans really only had one choice when it came to traveling into China. This made control of the Hexi Corridor invaluable, as whoever controlled this territory would also have power over one of the most important trade routes in world history. This meant that, like a prime piece of real estate, oases towns along the Hexi Corridor were hotly contested!

The Lanzhou region originally belonged to the Western Qiang people, but became part of the State of Qin during the 6th century BC. Under the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), it became one of the major links along the Silk Road and was also an important crossing point on the Yellow River. It was considered so valuable that it eventually earned the nickname the Golden City! The stunning Yumen Pass and Yang Pass, two of the last surviving earthen portions of the Great Wall, were erected during this time as part of a huge section of wall stretching along the northern frontier. This was designed by the Han court to help defend the Silk Road from northern invaders such as the Xiongnu people, and achieved relative success until the collapse of the Han Dynasty. Thereafter the region was passed around between several tribal states faster than a hot potato!

During the 4th century, Lanzhou briefly became the capital of the Former Liang Dynasty (320–376), until it was conquered by the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–535). Under the guidance of the Northern Wei rulers, the city flourished as a centre for Buddhist study from the 5th right through until the 11th century. It was recaptured by Chinese forces during the Sui Dynasty (581-618), where it became the seat of Lanzhou prefecture, but during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) it was lost to the Tibetans in 763 and wasn’t recovered until 843. However this imperial control turned out to be just another brief flirtation, as it soon fell into the hands of the Tangut people, who established the Western Xia Dynasty (1038–1227).

The Song Dynasty (960-1279) were able to take back the region and rename it Lanzhou in 1041, but it was once again lost in 1127 to the Jurchen people of the Jin Dynasty (1115–1234). It seemed that, when it came to being held, Lanzhou was as slippery as an eel! It was finally incorporated into the Mongol Empire (1206–1368) in 1235 and remained part of China proper from the Mongol-led Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) onwards.

Evidence of the city’s illustrious history as a centre for Buddhism can be found just 80 kilometres (50 mi) to its southwest in the form of the Bingling Temple Grottoes or Thousand Buddha Caves. This sequence of caves was begun sometime during the 4th century and construction continued for approximately 1,000 years, yielding over 200 caves, 690 stone statues, 82 clay sculptures, and some 900 square metres (9,700 sq. ft.) of stunning murals. It’s a veritable treasure trove of ancient Buddhist art but its isolated location means that, unlike the Mogao Caves and the Maijishan Grottoes, it receives very little tourist traffic and makes for a peaceful day out. You may even come back from your trip a little more enlightened!

Other Buddhist relics to be found in the city include the temples at the Five Spring Mountain Park on the northern side of Gaolan Mountain. According to legend, a famous Han general named Huo Qubing once led his forces here, where they nearly collapsed from exhaustion and thirst. Without further ado, Huo whipped the ground five times with his trusty horsewhip and five springs appeared. These springs can still be seen today and are dotted about amongst the numerous architectural sites, including the Butterfly Pavilion, Dizang Temple, and Wenchang Palace.

And, if it’s historical architecture you’re after, then no trip to Lanzhou would be complete without a visit to Zhongshan Bridge. This was once the site of Zhen Yuan Floating Bridge, one of the many floating bridges that spanned the Yellow River. These bridges were formed by strapping over 20 ships together using ropes and chains. Now this may sound rather magical, but these bridges were notoriously unstable and were frequently destroyed by floods, resulting in the death of many people. That being said, like Rocky Balboa, it seems Zhen Yuan Bridge wasn’t going to retire without a fight! In spite of adversity, it managed to survive for a staggering 500 years before it was finally replaced in 1909 by the iron Zhongshan Bridge you see today.

Join a travel with us to explore more about Lanzhou: Explore “The Good Earth” in Northwest China

Dongguan Mosque

With over 25% of Qinghai’s population being religiously Muslim, it’s no surprise that mosques play a focal role in several of the province’s cities. And none are more magnificent than Dongguan Mosque, the largest in the province and one of the largest in China as a whole. It’s situated in the provincial capital of Xining and was originally built in 1380, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), but was renovated in 1979. Its characteristic jade-green dome, towering minarets, and pearl white arches betray a mixture of Han and Central Asian influences in its architecture. In many ways, it resembles a traditional Chinese palace far more than a typical Central Asian mosque. Yet, combining the best of both worlds, its unusual hybrid nature has only served to boost its popularity with tourists!

The entrance is marked by a huge white arch with the name of the mosque inscribed upon it and, on either side, the 8-metre-high (26 ft.) Xuanli Pavilion is where the imams perform the call to prayer every morning. Beyond the gate, a large square covering a colossal 30,000 square metres (323,000 sq. ft.) stretches out in front of the mosque’s main building, the prayer hall. This splendid hall, resplendent with ornaments and wood carvings, can hold more than 3,000 people at any one time. It faces the east so that worshippers can easily pray in the direction of Mecca.

Within the Muslim community, this mosque is revered as a centre for higher learning and over 7,000 devout Muslims gather here every day to worship. Every Friday it regularly attracts more than 50,000 worshippers for lunchtime prayers, while during the festival of Ramadan it can draw crowds of over 300,000. That’s over three times the number of people that attend Reading Festival each year!

Kumbum Monastery

The Kumbum Monastery in Huangzhong County is considered the most prestigious “gompa” or Buddhist university monastery after the “great three” gompa of Tibet: Drepung Monastery, Ganden Monastery, and Sera Monastery. These four monasteries are basically The Beatles of the Buddhist world, with Kumbum being Ringo! It is located just 25 kilometres (16 mi) from the provincial capital of Xining and is dedicated to the Gelug branch of Tibetan Buddhism. The vast Qinghai Lake sprawls out nearby, reflecting the sapphire sky in its still waters, while all around birds can be heard softly chirping in the trees.

The founder of the Gelug sect, Tsongkhapa, was born in a nearby town known as Tsongkha in 1357. According to legend, several drops of blood from his umbilical cord soaked into the earth after he was born and a white sandalwood tree miraculously sprouted where the blood had fallen. The tree came to be known as the “Tree of Great Merit”, for its 100,000 leaves were adorned with images of Buddha and its bark bore mystic symbols. When it blossomed, it gave off an irresistible aroma that somehow settled the soul of anyone passing by.

In 1379, with the help of locals, Tsongkhapa’s mother erected a small temple and a stupa[1] on the site where her son was born. The temple was expanded in 1481 thanks to the support of wealthy nomads. Then, in 1560, a monk named Tsöndrü Gyeltsen arrived and decided to build a small monastery for meditation practice, which he called Gonpalung. Not long thereafter, in 1576, the famous Mongolian leader Altan Khan invited the future 3rd Dalai Lama, Sönam Gyatso, to Mongolia in an effort to help the dissemination of Buddhism.

On his way, Sönam spotted the holy tree that marked Tsongkhapa’s birthplace. He was so struck by the sacred tree that he commissioned Tsöndrü to build a larger monastery on the site and appointed him the head lama. The magnificent Kumbum Monastery was finally completed in 1583 and the Tree of Great Merit was surrounded by a protective fence. The name “kumbum” literally means “100,000 enlightening bodies of Buddha” and is derived from the 100,000 images of Buddha found on the leaves of the tree. By the 20th century, the monastery had been expanded to include thirty temples and fifty-two halls.

Nowadays, though the legendary tree unfortunately no longer stands, parts of it are now preserved in the stupa that rests in the Great Hall of the Golden Roof. Before the 1950s, the monastery supported a colossal 3,600 monks, although now there are only about 400. The majority are from the Tibetan ethnic minority, with the rest representing a mixture of Mongol, Yugur, and Han people. These monks are divided into four monastic colleges or “dratsang”: the Debate College, the Tantric College, the Medical College, and the Kalachakra[2] College.

Of these, the most popular is the Debate College. After all, who doesn’t love a good argument! During these heated debates, a student will stand in front of his seated teacher and think of a difficult question regarded the sutras[3]. Once he has thought of one, he will clap his hands loudly, extend his right arm to his teacher, and ask the question. Usually the teacher will only respond with cursory two or three words, but a longer response will elicit great joy from the student. Tourists are welcome to watch the debates and come face-to-face with this exciting practice.

The Great Hall of the Golden Roof sits at the centre of the complex and is its core building. It is so named for its remarkable three-tiered golden roof, adorned with patterns of lotus flowers and small statuettes of animals. From its colourful gates to the jade tiles and precious stones that are embedded in its walls, the hall is a luxurious feast for the eyes. Its main feature is an 11-metre-high (36 ft.) silver stupa that enshrines a gilded statue of Tsongkhapa. This stupa is surrounded by embroidered silk brocade, golden Buddha statuettes, burning butter lamps, and ornaments of all kinds.

Yet the monastery’s greatest claims to fame are its Three Treasures: Suyouhua or yak butter sculptures, embroidered silk brocade, and murals. Suyouhua are prepared at least three months in advance by resident monks for the grand butter sculpture show on the night of January 15th according to the Chinese lunar calendar. This art dates back over 1,300 years and involves a phenomenal degree of discipline. To prevent the butter from melting as they sculpt it, they must work in sub-zero temperatures and constantly dip their hands in freezing cold water. The elder monks must really have to butter them up so they don’t get cold feet!

Kumbum Monastery 01

[1] Stupa: A hemispherical structure with a small interior designed for storing Buddhist relics and for private meditation.

[2] Kalachakra: The term literally means “Wheel of Time” or “Time Cycles” and can be applied to both the practice and the name of the Tantric deity attached to it. It revolves around the concept of time and cycles, from the cycles of planets to the cycles of breathing.

[3] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha.

Qinghai Lake

The name “Qinghai” literally means “Cyan Sea” and, as the largest lake in China and one of the largest saltwater lakes in the world, it commands so much prestige that the entire province of Qinghai is named after it! This colossal water-body has an average depth of between 19 to 21 metres (62-69 ft.) and covers a surface area of over 4,300 square kilometres (1,660 sq. mi). That’s over five times the size of New York City! According to local Tibetan Buddhists, who regularly circumambulate this watery behemoth as part of their pilgrimage, it can take upwards of 15 to 23 days to complete a full circuit of it on foot.

The lake is located about 100 kilometres (62 mi) west of Xining, the provincial capital of Qinghai, and has unsurprisingly become a popular tourist attraction in the region. Since it rests at an altitude of about 3,600 metres (11,800 ft.), it benefits from temperate, dry summers and is thus the perfect retreat for those wishing to escape the oppressive humidity in other parts of China. In spite of its salinity, the lake also supports several species of fish so you know that, if you enter any of the small restaurants on the lake’s shore, fresh fish is bound to be on the menu!

Yet the lake’s greatest attractions are the many islands dotted across its surface, the most famous of which is Bird Island. Every year throughout April and May, many species of birds use the lake as a resting stop whilst they migrate across Asia. In some cases, the birds settle here and even lay their eggs, which led to the establishment of the Qinghai Lake Natural Protection Zone in 1997. The vast majority of these birds gather on a couple of little islands in the northwest of the lake known collectively as Bird Island. During peak season, over ten thousand birds can be seen perched on these small rocks, laying their eggs or chirruping their sweet songs. Whether you’re a bird-watcher or not, the spectacle of seeing so many birds in one place is not to be missed!

Towards the west of the lake, an island known as Mount Haixin or “Heart of the Lake” is host to several stunning temples and was supposedly once home to a Buddhist monastery. According to legend, the monks who lived there did not own a boat and had no other means of traversing the water. They would wait till winter each year, when the lake would freeze over for three months, and then would cross the icy expanse on foot. It is also rumoured that Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty (581-618) commissioned his officials to raise horses on this isolated island.

Nowadays the lake is the site for the annual Qinghai Lake International Cycling Race. Fortunately it takes place in July, around about the same time as the Tour de France, so that’s already a lot of the competition out of the way! Approximately 250 cyclists from about 15 countries gather for this prestigious race, which covers a gruelling 1,300 kilometres (808 mi) at an altitude of 3,300 metres (10,800 ft.). Considering the distance from Beijing to Shanghai is only about 1,200 kilometres (746 mi), we won’t blame you if you decide to remain a spectator!

The Bashang Grasslands

The thundering hooves of a thousand horses led by Genghis Khan as he raided northern China; the soulful songs of opera performers as they entertained Qing Dynasty emperors; the quiet trudge of the Chinese army as they marched off to another battle; these are but a handful of the many scenes that the Bashang Grasslands have played witness to over hundreds of years. Nowadays the gentle rolling hills and wide open plains serve as a place for cattle and sheep to graze, punctuated only by the Mongolian yurts that stand out like small pearls on the jade-green grass. Resting just 280 kilometres (174 mi) north of Beijing, it comes as no surprise that these magnificent grasslands have become a popular tourist location for the capital’s locals.

They cover a large portion of northwest Hebei province and rest at the junction where the North China Plain and the Inner Grasslands of Mongolia meet, making them part of the Inner Mongolia Plateau. Located at the foot of the Yan Mountains, the area is home not only to grassland but to wetlands, dense forests, shimmering lakes, and powerful rivers. With over 300 plant species growing throughout its meadows, the Bashang Grasslands have become known as a rich treasure trove for many of the ingredients used in Chinese medicine. So if you’re hiking through the plains and happen to develop a nasty headache, there’s no need to reach for that ibuprofen. You’re already surrounded by natural painkillers, panaceas, and even a few aphrodisiacs!

Overall the grasslands cover an area of 350 square kilometres (135 sq. mi) and can be split into four parts: Fengning Bashang, Zhangbei Bashang, Weichang Bashang and Guyuan Bashang. These parts rest in four separate counties of Hebei respectively, with Fengning Bashang being the closest to the city of Beijing.

Since the average altitude of the grasslands is around 1,500 metres (4,900 ft.) above sea level, it’s technically higher than many of the mountains in the Beijing area. This means that the temperature is, on average, about 10°C cooler on the grasslands and this is perhaps why the area has been a popular summer resort since the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). When you’re sweltering in the 30°C heat of Beijing’s summer and are trapped in an underground train full of sweaty passengers, a rural paradise made up of expansive grassy plains and cool fresh air must sound too good to be true!

Yet by far the greatest draw to the area is the nomadic Mongolian culture. Imagine horse-riding or cycling through the grasslands all day, watching a local wrestling competition, sampling the tantalising fresh roast lamb after watching it cook on an open fire, and then settling down to a night of sweet sleep in an authentic Mongolian yurt. With only the sound of the lowing cattle lulling you to sleep and with the bright stars of the clear night sky twinkling above you, you’ll wonder why anyone would want to live any other way.

Jiangsu Province

Bound by the Yellow Sea to the east and with the Yangtze River cutting through its southern expanses, it’s unsurprising that Jiangsu province has become synonymous with water. Its nickname, “the land of fish and rice”, reflects not only how important water is to it, but also how its huge rice-farming and fishing enterprises have made it one of the wealthiest provinces in China. Kind of like “the land of milk and honey”, only perhaps not quite as pleasant smelling!

The Yangtze River actually divides the province into two formal sections known as Jiangnan or “South of the River” and Subei or “Northern Jiangsu”. Jiangnan is by far the wealthier part of the province as it dominates the tourist, agricultural, and industrial trade, with famous cities such as Suzhou, Nanjing, and Wuxi all being located there. Subei is relatively poor by comparison and the northernmost parts of the region, such as Xuzhou, are far more influenced by northern Chinese culture. This cultural divide is most prevalent when it comes to language, as Jiangsu locals speak two mutually unintelligible dialects of Chinese: Mandarin[1] in the north and Wu in the south. When it comes to north-south divides, it doesn’t get much bigger than when you can’t even communicate with one another!

Yet this rift isn’t simply a cultural one, as the climate in the two regions is also vastly different. The south is humid and subtropical while the north is temperate and continental. Weather in southern Nanjing sits at a comfortable 2 °C (36 °F) in January and rises to a sweltering 32 °C (90 °F) in July, while temperatures in northern Jiangsu plummet to below 0 °C (32 °F) in winter, although its summers are largely the same.

Historically speaking, the Jiangsu region originally belonged to a kingdom known as the State of Wu until it was conquered by Qin Shi Huang, who unified China and founded the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). That being said, eager to maintain its independence, Jiangsu would frequently find itself outside of China’s borders! During the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280), it became part of the independent State of Dong Wu and its cultural development peaked from this period right through until the Southern and Northern Dynasties Period (420-589).

During the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties, the completion of the Grand Canal[2] meant that several of its towns swiftly rose to prominence as important trade centres between southern and northern China. Yet the collapse of the Tang Dynasty saw Jiangsu once again, like a rebellious teenage daughter, secede from imperial China and become part of the Southern Tang State (937–976) during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period (907-960). When it was finally reabsorbed in 976, during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), it reached its golden age as an emerging market economy and, with the rise of a wealthy merchant class, cities like Yangzhou and Suzhou soon became synonymous with luxury and opulence.

Further prosperity followed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) as the region became the centre for sericulture, yet it wasn’t until 1667, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), that the province of Jiangnan was finally split into modern-day Jiangsu and Anhui provinces. The name “Jiangsu” was derived from the names of the two most important prefectures at the time: Jiangning and Suzhou. As China slowly opened to foreign trade during the 1840s, the province was increasingly exposed to Western influence and this had a profound effect on its culture, art, and architecture.

In 1928, the leader of the Chinese Nationalist Party, Chiang Kai-shek, made Nanjing the country’s capital and used it as his base of power to bring most of China under his control. But in 1937, during the second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), tragedy struck when the Japanese captured Nanjing and carried out a horrific three-month-long campaign known as the Nanjing Massacre. This dark chapter in China’s history is still evidenced by the Nanjing Massacre Memorial, which is one of the focal sites in the city.

Since Nanjing served as the country’s capital during both the Ming Dynasty and the Republic of China (1912-1949), it is widely considered to be Jiangsu’s historical centre. It boasts a number of important sites, including the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, the Temple of Confucius, the Sun Yat-sen[3] Mausoleum, and the Presidential Palace.

The province itself is a cultural mecca for south China and is the home of many famous traditions, including a style of Chinese opera known as kunqu, an ancient form of storytelling known as pingtan, and its speciality dishes, which are listed as one of the Eight Great Traditions of Chinese Cuisine. It’s is also well known for its renowned handicrafts, such as embroidered brocade from Suzhou, clay teapots from Yixing, lacquer ware from Yangzhou, and clay figurines from Wuxi.

Yet one of the major draws to Jiangsu has always been its stunning natural scenery and beautiful canals. With their Venetian waterways, verdant classical gardens, and breath-taking architecture, water-towns like Suzhou and Zhouzhuang have become known as some of the most picturesque places on earth. In fact, there is a popular saying in China which states: “Above there is heaven; below there is Suzhou and Hangzhou[4]”. High praise indeed!

 

[1] This is not to be confused with Standard or Mandarin Chinese, which is different.

[2] The Grand Canal: It is the longest canal in the world and starts in Beijing, passing through the provinces of Hebei, Shandong, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang before eventually terminating in the city of Hangzhou. It links the Yellow River to the Yangtze River and the oldest parts of it date back to the 5th century BC, although most of its construction took place during the Sui Dynasty (581-618).

[3] Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925): A Chinese revolutionary who played an instrumental role in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, abolishing imperial rule and founding the Republic of China. He became the first president of China in 1912.

[4] Hangzhou is the provincial capital of Zhejiang province and thus does not belong to Jiangsu province.

Xining

xining 02

It may seem odd that Xining is the provincial capital of Qinghai, especially when you take into account the fact that, up until 1928, it belonged to the province of Gansu. Yet it appears Qinghai has stolen a real gem, as this city has been sought after and warred over for nearly 2,000 years! It has a population of just over 2 million people, most of which are from the Han, Hui, Tu, and Tibetan ethnic groups, although the city is home to 36 of China’s ethnic minorities. It has recently enjoyed much fame and popularity as the starting point for the new Tibetan Railway.

Yet this is only a small part of Xining’s illustrious heritage as a centre for travel. During the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), the city’s proximity to the Hexi Corridor made it a focal trade hub along the Silk Road and thus it enjoyed a period of exponential growth. It functioned as a western stronghold throughout the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties but was tragically overrun and annexed by the Tibetan Empire in 763. It was eventually recovered in 1104, during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), and was then symbolically renamed Xining or “Peace in the West”. In keeping with this spiritual name, the city is a site of religious significance for both Muslims and Buddhists, with the Dongguan Mosque resting within the city and the Kumbum Monastery just outside of it.

Nowadays the city enjoys a fine reputation as one of the summer resort capitals of China, owing to its temperate, balmy summers. Though in January the temperature can plummet to depths of −7 °C (18 °F), the average July temperature of 17 °C (63 °F) makes Xining far more comfortable than other Chinese cities such as Beijing and Shanghai. It’s the ideal place to get away from the oppressive humidity in other parts of China; just be sure to book a ticket out of there before the icy winter hits!

xining dongguanWith its substantial Muslim population, Xining is home to over 80 mosques, of which the Dongguan Mosque is undoubtedly its star attraction. It was originally built during the 14th century and is one of the largest mosques in the country. Every Friday it regularly attracts over 50,000 worshippers for lunchtime prayers, while during the festival of Ramadan it can draw crowds of over 300,000. That’s over three times the number of people that attend Reading Festival each year!

Within the city itself, the South Mountain Park is a favourite haunt for locals and has a viewing platform from which visitors can take in a breath-taking panorama of the city. It’s a wonderfully secluded slice of greenery and makes for a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. For those dedicated history nerds, there are numerous spectacular museums littered throughout the city that give an insight into its decorated past. The Qinghai Provincial Museum at the east end of Xining Square is resplendent with historical artefacts that date back thousands of years, including pottery, paintings, and Tibetan carpets. It’s the perfect place to learn about the history of the province and pick up a few souvenirs in the process!

The Tibetan Culture and Medicine Museum is another real treat and boasts some excellent displays on traditional Tibetan medicine, astronomy, and science, as well as the culture and lifestyle of the Tibetan people. Its crowning jewel is a 618-metre-long (2,030 ft.) Tibetan thangka or sacred art scroll, which was painted by 400 artists over four years and was finally completed in 1997. To put that into perspective, it’s over twice as long as the Eiffel Tower is high!

About 25 kilometres (15 mi) to the southwest of Xining, the Kumbum Monastery welcomes visitors to marvel at its stunning architecture and witness its monks debating over Buddhist sutras[1]. It is the most prestigious Buddhist monastery outside of Tibet and attracts flocks of worshippers every year. Still further, approximately 95 kilometres (60 mi) outside of the city, the colossal Qinghai Lake can be found sprawling its sapphire expanse across the countryside.

 

 

 

[1] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha.

The Labrang Monastery

With its white-washed walls and golden roofs, the Labrang Monastery rises up along the banks of the Daxia River in Xiahe County like an imperial palace hidden amongst the trees. Its location places it at an intersection between four major ethnic groups, the Tibetans, Mongolians, Han Chinese, and the Hui people, meaning that over the years it has been influenced by numerous cultures. It boasts the largest population of resident monks outside of Tibet and is one of six major monasteries dedicated to the Gelugpa branch of Tibetan Buddhism, standing alongside other prestigious academies such as the Drepung Monastery in Tibet and the Kumbum Monastery in Qinghai.

It was founded in 1709 by a first generation Jamyang Zhépa named Ngawang Tsöndrü (1648–1721), a title which meant that he ranked third in importance after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama[1]. The northern district of Xiahe City is almost completely dominated by the monastery complex, meaning it’s largely regarded as a monastic city. Let’s just hope the locals don’t develop a holier-than-thou attitude! Unlike many of the cities dotted throughout Gansu province, over 50% of Xiahe’s population is made up of Tibetan people and this is reflected in the culture, architecture, and lifestyle enjoyed by the locals.

In its heyday, Labrang was home to nearly 4,000 monks, but these numbers rapidly declined due to disruption during the Cultural Revolution. The population is now capped at 1,800 monks, who travel from across China for the coveted opportunity to study there. During their study, each monk chooses to join one of the six dratsang or colleges within the complex, which each offer different specialities ranging from theology to traditional Tibetan medicine. From then on, the monastery’s library is their best friend, as it contains over 60,000 sutras[2] dedicated to various topics. Imagine trying to get through all of those in your lifetime!

The complex is separated into 18 halls, one golden stupa[3], and a sutra debating area, which are all a stunning mixture of Han and Tibetan architectural styles. There is even a museum within the complex, which features exhibitions of statues, sutras, and murals along with an array of Tibetan language books, history books, medicines, and other artistic objects that can be purchased.

The Grand Sutra Hall is the main area used for religious activities and its interior is delicately decorated with shrines, murals of Buddha, and bookcases stacked with sutra scrolls. Located just to its northwest is the Grand Golden Tile Hall, which is a six-storey building with a roof made from bronze tiles that are plated with gold. The architecture has a certain Nepalese flair and, within the hall, there stands a bronze statue of Buddha crafted by Nepalese artisans. In front of the hall gate, there stands a stele[4] with Han, Tibetan, Manchu, and Mongolian characters inscribed upon it by the Jiaqing Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). As if being multilingual wasn’t impressive enough!

Another major highlight of the complex is the three-storey Barkhang, which is the monastery’s traditional printing press. Hidden down a small lane, this hall boasts rows and rows of over 20,000 wood blocks that are used for printing sutras and religious texts. Near to the Barkhang, the Hall of Hayagriva serves as a repository for vivid murals and contains a rare 12 metre (39 ft.) high statue of Hayagriva, the wrathful manifestation of the goddess Guanyin with six arms, three faces, and a characteristically fierce scowl. This is just one of the many thousands of statues scattered throughout the complex, some of which are made out of gold, silver, aluminium, bronze, wood, jade, and all manner of opulent materials.

Nowadays the monastery is still an important pilgrimage destination for Tibetans living across China. Vibrant and lively festivals take place here throughout the year, but none are more magnificent than the festivities that surround Losar or the Tibetan New Year. Each year during Losar, a huge Thangka or Buddhist painting is hung on the monastery’s Thangka Wall. Thousands of pilgrims travel to attend the celebration and then walk the kora path or pilgrimage circuit, which winds around the complex and is littered with colourful prayer wheels. So, if you’re taking a trip to Labrang, be prepared for lots of walking!

[1] The Panchen Lama: The highest ranking lama after the Dalai Lama according to Tibetan Buddhism.

[2] Sutra: One of the sermons of the historical Buddha.

[3] Stupa: A hemispherical structure with a small interior designed for storing Buddhist relics and for private meditation.

[4] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.