The term “Ordos” means “palaces” in Mongolian and reflects the grand plans that authorities once had for this region; plans that would tragically fall to ruin. It is one of Inner Mongolia’s twelve major subdivisions and is located within the Ordos Loop of the Yellow River. During the 17^th century it was known as Ih Ju League, a “league” being the Mongolian term for prefecture, but was renamed Ordos in 2001. The prefecture itself has a population of nearly 2 million people but its administrative centre, Ordos City, has now become famous worldwide as “China’s Ghost City”.

The city rests near to the Ordos Desert, also known as the Mu Us Desert, which stretches out over a colossal 90,650 square kilometres (35,000 sq. mi) and is made up of two large deserts; the Kubuqi in the north and the Maowusu in the south. These are the 7^th and 8^th largest deserts in China respectively and together cover an area greater than that of Ireland!

The city was built to house over a million people but, due to financial problems and issues with deadlines, it remains unfinished and almost completely empty. In particular, the Kangbashi New Area, which was built in 2003 and is about 25 kilometres (16 mi) from Dongsheng District, is home to only 28,000 people with 98% of its apartment complexes left unused. While most visitors complain that Chinese cities are simply too overcrowded, the eerie silence of Ordos City’s empty streets is hardly preferable!

The city itself is littered with stunning monuments reflecting Mongolian history, such as the Genghis Khan Plaza and the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan. Gigantic statues of two rearing horses and the mighty warrior Genghis Khan rise up silently at the centre of the plaza and are some of the many “ghosts” that haunt the city. The Ordos Museum and Kangbashi Theatre are two exemplary works of modern architecture that can be found near the plaza, yet they too remain largely empty. The city is so unnervingly quiet that it has been made the subject of many articles by well-known publications such as Al Jazeera and TIME magazine. After all, as the old saying goes, “there is no such thing as bad publicity except your own obituary”, and fortunately a Ghost City can’t die!

 

 

Only a handful of people get to achieve everlasting fame and still fewer maintain a large number of followers long after their death, yet Genghis Khan has managed to go above and beyond even that. To the Mongolian people, he is regarded as a godlike figure. The religion surrounding him has deep ties with Mongolian shamanism[1] and has managed to sustain its popularity over centuries. He is often equated with Tenger or “the Sky-Father”, the chief deity of an ancient Turkic religion known as Tengrism, and it is believed that his ideals were the founding principles of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Not content to be just another picture in a dusty history book, Genghis Khan’s exploits have managed to make him a god!

Of the many temples dedicated to worshipping him littered throughout
Inner Mongolia and northern China, the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan is arguably the grandest. It is located in Xinjie Town near Ordos City and is a cenotaph, meaning it does not actually contain the remains of the mighty warrior himself. After Genghis Khan died, according to his will, he was carried to central Mongolia and buried without any markings. The actual location of his remains is still unknown but, instead of a burial mound, portable tombs known as the “eight white yurts” were erected in his honour. These yurts had originally been palaces where he had lived but were converted into mausoleums on his death.

They were guarded by a Mongolian subgroup known as the Darkhads or “untouchables”, who were sacred shamans charged with his protection. So, when the Darkhads decided to move to Ordos, the mausoleums simply came with them! However, due to the disruption caused during the fall of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) and the Second World War, they had to be moved to the province of Gansu for several years. They suffered another upheaval in 1949 when they were moved to Qinghai province by the warlord Ma Bufang.

In fact, in a desperate bid to protect them, the Kuomintang[2] even hid them within a Buddhist monastery, twice! In 1956, they were replaced by the immovable mausoleum that can be found today and are still guarded by several Darkhads, who continue to carry out the rituals that have been passed down to them over 800 years. At least, as a Darkhad, you know you’ve always got a guaranteed job!

The complex itself is made up of three large “palaces” or halls that are designed to resemble yurts. The Main Palace is set at the centre and is the largest of the three, towering in at 26 metres (85 ft.). Inside there rests a 5-metre-tall (16 ft.) statue of Genghis Khan made of white jade, resplendent in his armour with his characteristically fierce face. At over twice the size of the average basketball player, Genghis’ statuesque form cuts an imposing figure!

Behind him there is a map of the vast territory he once controlled as part of the Mongol Empire, the largest contiguous empire in world history. Surrounding the statue are saddles, weapons, carts, and other relics believed to have belonged to him, although several of them are replicas. His empty coffin and coffins belonging to three of his wives are also housed within the Main Palace.

Within the East Palace are interred the coffins of Genghis Khan’s fourth son, Tolui, along with his wife. Of all of Genghis’ sons, Tolui enjoys the most eminent status as he was the progenitor of many Mongolian kings, including Kublai Khan. After all, when your dad was so famous that he’s now regarded as a deity, you have to be a pretty high-achiever to even get noticed!

The West Palace houses the nine banners and the Su Le Ding or “Iron Spearheads”. The nine banners symbolise the nine trustworthy generals who followed Genghis Khan and the iron spearheads were once part of the flags that he used to command his army during his many conquests. According to legend, his soul entered the spearheads on his death and still inhabits them, making them a sacred object among the Mongolian people. The corridors that connect the palaces are adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from Genghis Khan’s life and Kublai Khan’s establishment of the Yuan Dynasty.

Special sacrificial ceremonies take place at the mausoleum four times annually, the grandest of which happens on March 21^st according to the Chinese lunar calendar. On this day, Mongolian shamans engage in solemn rituals and pile whole roasted sheep before the statue of Genghis Khan. The intricate procedures that surround these ceremonies have remained virtually unchanged since the 13^th century. After the main ceremony is complete and the visitors have made their personal offerings of flowers, food, and incense, competitions will take place, such as wrestling, horse-riding, archery, and singing. During these ceremonies, the mausoleum comes to life in a glorious display of traditional Mongolian culture.

[1] Shamanism: The practice of attempting to reach altered states of consciousness in order to communicate with the spirit world and channel energy from it into the real world. This can only be done by specialist practitioners known as shaman.

[2] Kuomintang: Also known as the Chinese Nationalist Party. They were the ruling party from 1928 until their defeat at the hands of the Communists in 1949. They retreated to Taiwan, where they still play an active political role.

Baotou is a prefecture-level city settled at the base of the looming Yin Mountains, on the north bank of the magnificent Yellow River. It’s about 160 kilometres (100 mi) west of Hohhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia, and is the largest industrial city in the region. Its Mongolian name, which translates to mean “place with deer”, has earned it the nickname “Deer City” as it is the only city in China to contain part of the Mongolian grasslands within the city itself. That being said, the deer are kept firmly in the grasslands, so there’s no need to worry about a rogue stag sneaking up on you and stealing your dumplings!

During the Warring States Period (c. 476-221 BC), the area where Baotou sits belonged to the State of Zhao and part of the original Great Wall ran through one of its suburbs. Yet, in spite of these ancient beginnings, it is a relatively young city by Chinese standards. The region was initially colonised during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) but, by the 1730s, it was still just a small village. During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the imperials resolved to strengthen their control of the territory along the border with Mongolia and began developing Baotou as a market town.

Yet its real period of growth occurred in 1923, when the city was connected to Beijing by rail. It swiftly became one of the major commercial centres for trade between Mongolia and northern China and overnight appeared to develop into a large city. Although this rail link was tragically destroyed in 1949, it was restored in 1953 and other lines were added to Lanzhou in Gansu province and to Ürümqi in Xinjiang, connecting Baotou to rail lines across central and southern China. During the 1960s, the city was expanded further to accommodate a monumental iron and steel complex, which made Baotou one of the major steel producers in the country. Unfortunately this did little to attract tourists!

Though the city is largely industrial, it does contain a few attractions that are sure to entice some of the more adventurous tourists. The Saihan Tala Ecological Park in the city’s Qingshan District is the only grassland in China to be found within a city and is the perfect place to engage with traditional Mongolian culture. From relaxing in yurts and sipping milk tea to sampling some freshly roasted mutton and listening to a few Mongolian folk songs, the bucolic atmosphere and richly vibrant culture are a welcome distraction in this otherwise urban city. It’s a real country mouse meets city mouse kind of situation!

About 185 kilometres (115 mi) south of the city, the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan looms up over the grasslands and resembles three huge, beautifully decorated yurts. It’s a cenotaph or empty tomb dedicated to the mighty warrior and is considered a holy site by the Mongolian people. From engaging in their daily life to experiencing their spiritual practices, by the end of your trip you’ll practically be a Khan yourself!

 

The bitter rivalry between the Xiongnu tribe of Mongolia and the Han people of China is a defining feature of ancient Chinese history and no good history book is complete without a reference to at least one of their momentous clashes. Yet the story of Wang Zhaojun is one of the rare occasions when these two enemies found a way to get along. Zhaojun was born in Ping Village of Hubei province during the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD) and, as she grew older, her almost ethereal beauty swiftly got her noticed. Heralded as one of China’s Four Great Beauties at the time, she was selected to become a lady-in-waiting for the Han court.

However, it appeared that her exceptional beauty wasn’t enough to earn the Emperor’s affection. The Emperor rarely had time to meet his concubines in the flesh, and so depended upon portraits to pick which one he wanted to see. There were many attractive women in the palace and several of them bribed the imperial painter to make their portraits stand out, but Zhaojun did not want to be dishonest and so refused to bribe the painter, who in turn made her look far uglier in her portrait. Years went by and Zhaojun lived a hopelessly lonely life within the palace, overlooked by the Emperor and everyone else.

In 33 BC a Xiongnu Chanyu or chieftain named Huhanye approached the Han imperials and expressed his desire to make peace by marrying a Han woman. Seeing an opportunity to escape her wretched life, Zhaojun volunteered to marry him and made the courageous choice to leave her ancestral home forever. When the Emperor finally took notice of her, he was overwhelmed by her incredible beauty but it was too late, she was promised to Huhanye. In one last attempt to make up for her awful life in the palace, the Emperor executed the painter who had wronged her. Talk about swift justice!

After her marriage, she was granted the title of Ning Huqueshi or Queen of the Xiongnu. She decided to adopt the local customs of her people and lived in a yurt, wore traditional blankets and furs, ate yak meat, and drank milk tea as a sign of respect for the Xiongnu. Her open-minded attitude gave new meaning to the phrase “when in Rome”!

Unfortunately, in spite of her selfless efforts, her life would end in tragedy. After only 3 years of marriage, her husband tragically died and her application to return home was denied by the Emperor. According to tradition, she was forced to marry Huhanye’s son but, after 11 years, he too passed away. She once again appealed to the Emperor for permission to return home but was refused and, facing yet another marriage to Huhanye’s grandson, she opted instead to commit suicide.

It is believed that she was largely responsible for the amicable relationship enjoyed between the Han and Xiongnu people at the time and, in commemoration of her achievements, the local people built a tomb in her honour. “Zhaojun Chu Sai” (昭君出塞) or “Zhaojun Goes Beyond the Frontier” is a phrase used to describe her departure from Han territory and her arrival in the Mongolian grasslands. It is regarded as a landmark event in Chinese history and is the subject of much poetry, theatre, literature, and music.

Nowadays her tomb rests just 9 kilometres (6 mi) from the city of Hohhot and is one of the city’s major attractions. It is sometimes referred to by its Mongolian name of Temür Urkhu or “Iron Wall”, as well as its nickname of “Green Tomb”. This nickname evolved from a local legend which states that when the wintery frost sets in and the plants are reduced to a withering yellow, the grass on Wang Zhaojun’s tomb miraculously remains green!

Although her body does not actually rest beneath the 33-metre-high (108 ft.) burial mound, this honorary tomb is noted for its magnificent scenery and stunning statues. After all, how could you not be flattered to have a burial mound that’s taller than Buckingham Palace, even if you’re not necessarily under it!

In front of the mound, there rests a 4-metre-high (13 ft.) bronze statue depicting Wang Zhaojun and Huhanye on horseback riding side by side and leaning in to talk with one another. Though the figures are obviously inanimate, the statue is so vivid that the intimacy between them is undoubtedly palpable. It serves as a testament to their marriage and what it meant for the Han and Xiongnu people. This is further evidenced by the many steles[1] behind the statue, which were engraved by notable people from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) onwards and all praise Wang Zhaojun.

Beyond the steles, a stone staircase leads to a platform where visitors can marvel at the panoramic view of the scenery surrounding the tomb and the silhouette of the misty Yin Mountains rising up in the distance. Recently an Exhibition Centre was built on the tomb site, which houses magnificent displays of paper cuttings, local artwork, and other charming artefacts, as well as live performances of traditional Mongolian ceremonies.

[1] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

Encircled by the magnificent Daqing or “Great Green” Mountains and situated in the upper valley of the Dahei River, Hohhot is a city surrounded by nature. As the capital of Inner Mongolia, it’s heralded as the political and cultural centre of the region. Its Mongolian name of Kuku-Khoto translates to “Green City”, as it is one of the few urban areas completely surrounded by jade-hued grasslands. With the vast grassy plains before you, the endless sapphire sky above you, and the city’s numerous temples surrounding you, it’s easy to see why it earned such a prestigious title.

The city’s history began in 1557 when Altan Khan, the leader of a Mongol subgroup known as the Tümeds, began building the Dazhao Temple. He wanted to impress the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) in order to gain access to valuable trade items such as iron, cotton, and crop seeds. After all, as the old saying goes, “if you build it, they will come”, and hopefully bring you gifts! In the process, he established the city of Kuku-Khoto and eventually managed to persuade the Ming imperials to make him their vassal.

During the 17^th century, the Ming court renamed the city Guihua or “Return to Civilisation” and encouraged Chinese agriculturalists to settle there. It grew rapidly as a frontier trading centre, as well as a religious centre for Tibetan Buddhism, and the rich fertile plains allowed the local farmers to prosper. In the middle of the 18^th century, a new city known as Suiyuan was established just 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) to its north.

These cities would eventually be combined and collectively named Guisui, which swiftly became a focal trading hub in Inner Mongolia. Originally the old Mongol part of the city served as the commercial centre, while the newer Chinese part was regarded as an administrative and residential area. In 1954 the city was renamed Hohhot and the two districts were merged completely. By 1957, it had developed into the cultural and academic centre of Inner Mongolia and was home to the region’s first university. In short, Hohhot is living proof that knowledge is power!

Thanks to its temperate weather, the city has become a popular summer retreat for domestic tourists and acts as a gateway to the nearby Xilamuren Grasslands. They are about 100 kilometres (62 mi) from Hohhot and are occasionally referred to as the Zhaohe Grasslands. These seemingly endless plains are resplendent with lush green grass and multi-coloured wildflowers, making them the perfect place to hike and relax.

The Dazhao Temple was completed in 1579 and is the oldest Buddhist monastery in the city. Within its confines, a shrine dedicated to the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) takes centre stage and is flanked by murals commemorating his visit to the temple. Yet the temple’s major claim to fame is a spectacular 2.5 metre-tall (8 ft.) silver statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. It is considered one of the temple’s Three Treasures, alongside the murals and the golden pillars on either side of the statue that are beautifully engraved with carvings of dragons.

Just 100 metres (320 ft.) from Dazhao Temple sits the Xilituzhao Palace, the largest Buddhist temple in Hohhot. The term “xilitu” means “holy seat” in Mongolian as this was, and still is, one of the most important houses of worship in Inner Mongolia. It was built during the Ming Dynasty in honour of the third and fourth Dalai Lamas and in commemoration of the Lamas in general. The original temple was quite small but underwent a colossal expansion during the Qing Dynasty. In spite of extensive weathering over a period of 400 years, the temple has remained in relatively good condition.

Alongside these Buddhist temples, there are a plethora of Muslim, Catholic, and Christian houses of worship dotted throughout the city. Most notable of these is the Great Mosque, which was founded during the Qing Dynasty. With its elegant pagoda-style roofs and ornate Arabian windows, the mosque represents a unique blend of traditional Han Chinese and Central Asian architectural features. From the top of its 15-metre (49 ft.) tall minaret, you’ll be treated to a spectacular panoramic view of the entire city.

Similarly the Zhaojun Tomb is regarded as one of the finest attractions in Inner Mongolia and is only about 10 kilometres (6 mi) south of Hohhot. It’s the final resting place of Wang Zhaojun, a beautiful Chinese aristocrat who became the courtesan of a Xiongnu “Chanyu” or chieftain named Huhanye in 33 BC. According to local legend, when all the grass turns yellow in winter, the grass that covers Zhaojun’s tomb miraculously remains green!