Mulan Paddock

Stretching out over 2,300 square kilometres (888 sq. mi) of pure unadulterated grassland, Mulan Paddock represents the largest imperial hunting grounds in the world. It covers nearly twice the area of the city of London and takes up huge portions of both Hebei province and Inner Mongolia. Hunting in this huge expanse, it’s a small wonder that the Emperor ever caught anything! The hunting grounds are part of the Bashang Grasslands and belong to the portion known as Weichang Bashang. They rest about 450 kilometres (280 mi) away from Beijing and now make for a popular weekend retreat, albeit with a lot less hunting and a lot more hiking!

With Mongolian yurts dotted like small pearls across its expanse and with the vast blue sky above it, it looks like a scene from a watercolour painting. Its appearance is so idyllic that it’s hard to believe it was once a site of major political change and warfare. Mulan Paddock was originally established by the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) so that he could keep an eye on the northern borders and strengthen his control of the Mongolian region. Every year the Emperor would bring his ministers and royal army, along with his family and concubines, to hunt on these grounds and thus reassert his claim to the territory. In fact, it was these regular annual visits that eventually prompted him to build the magnificent Chengde Mountain Resort in the nearby town of Rehe (modern-day Chengde).

01Nowadays these jade-hued grasslands are a place to relax, enjoy the scenery, cycle, ride horses, and sample tantalising Mongolian delicacies such as whole roast lamb. The area has been sanctioned off into three core attractions known as Saihanba National Forest Park, Yudaokou Grassland, and Hongsongwa Natural Conservation Zone, although there’s more to these peaceful meadows than meets the eye.

Not far from Saihanba National Forest Park, Wulan Butong Grassland once played host to one of the most epic battles in Chinese history; the Battle of Ulan Butung. On September 3rd 1690, the Kangxi Emperor allied with an ethnic subgroup of Mongolian people known as the Khalka and successfully drove Galdan Boshugtu Khan, the leader of a rival kingdom called the Dzungar Khanate, out of the grasslands. Though no evidence of this battle remains on the site, the Hongshan Army Horse Farm is a small reminder of the military purposes that these grasslands once served.

The farm was first built in 1964 and was designed to breed and train horses that could be used in the border areas. Over a period of just 40 years, this farm supplied the Chinese army with over 15,000 trained horses. That’s over 350 horses per year! At an altitude of over 1,500 metres (4,900 ft.), it’s perched at the highest point of Wulan Butong and is thus at a military advantage. That being said, the only people who appear to be raiding the horse farm nowadays are curious tourists!

Jinkeng Red Yao Terraced Fields

The Jinkeng Terraces are the lesser known, less tourist oriented portion of the Longji Rice Terraces Scenic Area. Jinkeng is made up of several small villages, including Dazhai, Tiantou, Zhuangjie, Xinzhai and Xiaozhai, with Dazhai and Tiantou being considered the most scenic. The Jinkeng portion of the rice terraces is actually much larger than that of Ping’an village or Longji Ancient Zhuang Village but, because of the poor condition of the roads leading into the villages, it has yet to become as popular with tourists. The Jinkeng Terraces stretch up the mountains from 800 metres to a colossal 1,180 metres above sea level and their highest mountain, Fupingbao, is 1,900 metres at its peak. The hiking opportunities in Jinkeng are tremendous and we strongly recommend anyone looking for an adventure holiday in the rice terraces to opt for the villages of Dazhai or Tiantou as their base.

The main scenic spots in Jinkeng are Xishan Shaoyue or “Musical West Hill”, Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces, and Golden Buddha Peak. Xishan Shaoyue is the first viewing platform on the mountains and offers a wonderful vantage point of the rice terraces. It is the easiest of the three scenic spots to get to and should only take about 2 hours to reach on foot. It’s a superb place to watch the sun rise and set over the rice terraces and it offers the broadest view of the Jinkeng Terraced Fields. Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces is near to Xishan Shaoyue and there is a well-kept path on a gentle gradient leading to it so it is fairly easy to reach on foot. This area is particularly impressive due to the sheer number of rice terraces carved out of the mountains below, which perfectly exhibit the industrious work of the farmers who built them. It also offers an ideal view of the Yao villages below and is considered the perfect place to watch the sunrise.

Golden Buddha Peak is the only scenic spot that has cable car access in the Longji Scenic Area and this is simply because it is so far away! The cableway is about 1,580 metres long and takes just 20 minutes to reach the peak, although you do have to pay extra to ride the cable car. Otherwise, it’s about a 3 hour hike to reach the top, but this hike does reward you with stunning views of the rice terraces as you ascend the mountain. Golden Buddha Peak is considered the best scenic spot in Jinkeng and offers the most spectacular views of the rice terraces, particularly at sunset. If you’re feeling adventurous or you’re making an overnight stay in Dazhai or Tiantou, we strongly recommend taking the hike up the Golden Buddha Peak. Trust us, watching the sun set across the cascading mountains is a more than suitable reward.

The Jinkeng Red Yao Terraces are so named because the majority of the villages in the Jinkeng area are home to the Red Yao ethnic minority. These are a branch of the Yao ethnic minority that are named for their traditional dress. On festival occasions, the Red Yao women will wear a vibrant red coat and black pleated skirt, hence the name “Red” Yao. Yao women are also famous for growing their hair long and the best place to witness this unusual tradition is in nearby Huangluo Village.

The best time to visit the Jinkeng Rice Terraces is between April and late October, as this is when the farmers will be planting the rice. Each season affords different views of the rice terraces, so choose when you want to go carefully!

Dazhai (大寨)

“Dazhai” literally means “Large Village” in Chinese and, unsurprisingly, Dazhai is one of the largest villages in the Jinkeng area. Over 1,000 people live in the village of Dazhai and over 98% of them are from the Yao ethnic minority. Dazhai is far less crowded than Ping’an but is still reasonably well-equipped for tourism. There are just over 30 hotels and hostels in Dazhai and a number of restaurants. Although these hotels tend to be wooden and are not equipped with as many modern amenities as those in Ping’an, they offer a far more rustic feel and make you feel as though you are truly part of the village. On top of visiting the rice terraces, many of the local Yao people in Dazhai will gladly welcome you into their home and offer a glimpse of their simple, rural lifestyle.

Tiantou (田头)

“Tiantou” literally means “Head of the Fields” or “Farms” in Chinese and this aptly demonstrates the rustic atmosphere of this small village. Although Tiantou is smaller than Dazhai, it is located far closer to Xishan Shaoyue and Dajie Thousand-Layer Terraces. There are a handful of hotels in Tiantou, which make it the perfect place for an overnight stay should you wish to catch the sunrise at either of these scenic spots.

Quanjinglou or “Panorama Lodge” is considered to be the best hotel in the Jinkeng area and can be reached from both Dazhai and Tiantou. It is located not far from the Xishan Shaoyue scenic spot and has 26 rooms, which all offer outstanding views of the rice terraces.

bamboo-tube riceDining

Like Ping’an, the local cuisine in Dazhai and Tiantou is simple. Popular local dishes include bamboo-tube rice, smoked bacon fried with bamboo shoots, braised chicken, and fresh vegetables fried in oil. Many of the ingredients for the dishes will be locally sourced and taste incredibly fresh. A handful of restaurants and guesthouses in the area will offer some simple Western food, such as pizza or French fries.

How To Get There

You first need to take the express bus from Guilin to Longsheng County Town, which takes about 2 hours. The buses between Guilin and Longsheng are very regular and usually run at 15 minute intervals. In Longsheng you’ll need to purchase your tickets for the rice terraces. From Longsheng, you’ll need to take a bus to Dazhai Parking Lot, which can take up to 2 hours. At the parking lot, you can either make the short walk to Dazhai or walk to Tiantou, which takes about half an hour. Please be advised that the last bus back to Longsheng leaves from Dazhai Parking Lot at 4pm every day, so if you’re taking a daytrip to the rice terraces then you should aim to arrive and leave early.

Moon Hill

moon hill 01

The Chinese believe there is a palace on the moon known as Guanghan Palace. It is home to the legendary figures Chang’e, the Jade Rabbit and Wu Gang the Woodcutter. According to Chinese mythology, they are responsible for the spots and shadows you see on the moon. On the roof of Moon Hill, you can see stalactites that greatly resemble these mythical characters. Perhaps they’ve become bored of the moon and decided to live on its beautiful earthly counterpart instead!

Moon Hill is located just outside of Yangshuo and just south of the Jingbao River. At its summit, it reaches 380 metres (1,250 ft.) above sea level and is 410 metres (1,350 ft.) in length. The “moon” of Moon Hill was once a cave that eroded over time to form a wide, semi-circular hole close to the summit. This hole, or arch, is 50 metres (about 160 ft.) high and approximately 50 metres wide. If you look at Moon Hill from different angles, it can appear to be a full moon or a crescent moon and, if you position yourself at exactly the right spot, you can make it look as though you are “holding” the moon in the palm of your hand.

moon hill 02There is an 800-step path that leads to this arch and then a further, rockier path that leads to the mountain’s summit. The marble stairway was established in 1981 and is called “Appreciating Moon Path”. It is relatively easy to climb and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the arch. The path leading to the summit is on a much higher gradient and is much more overgrown, so it can take another 20 minutes just to reach the top. However, whether you climb to the arch or brave the summit, the view from Moon Hill is truly spectacular. This vantage point offers you panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, and is the perfect place to take some stunning photographs of Yangshuo County.

Moon Hill also boasts several rock-climbing routes of varying difficulties, most of which were pioneered by the American climber Todd Skinner in the 1990s. The mountain boasts over 14 climbing routes, among which the notorious “Moonwalker” is considered one of the most challenging.

Moon Hill is within cycling distance of Yangshuo and, in an effort to promote tourism in the area, the government established a bicycle path there known as the Ten-Li Gallery. Li is a Chinese unit of measurement that roughly equates to half a kilometre (1,600 ft.) and along this ten li (50 km) path there are numerous mountains worth visiting. These mountains have been given fanciful names according to their shapes, such as the Flaming Mountain, the Heavenly Horse Gallops into the Sky, the Golden Cat Comes Out of the Hole, and the Beautiful Girl Puts on Her Make-up. A series of caves, including Black Buddha Cave, Dragon Cave, and New Water Cave, have also been opened along the path to Moon Hill. Some of these caves even contain mud baths and hot springs where tourists can enjoy their own, private spa.

There are two cycling routes from Yangshuo to Moon Hill. The older one tends to be full of vendors that will try to sell you snacks or souvenirs on your way. The newer one takes longer but is much quieter and takes you through the scenic, ancient village of Longtan or “Dragon Pond”. Longtan is located just behind Moon Hill and many of its houses are hundreds of years old. Walking through this rural town is like taking a trip back in time. The town derives its name from the pond directly behind it, which is also called Dragon Pond. This pond has been used by locals to wash their clothes and vegetables for hundreds of years.

The Wuyi Mountains

mount wuyi 01

The Wuyi Mountains are a mountain range located just to the south of Wuyishan City in Nanping Prefecture, Fujian. It rests on the border between Fujian and Jiangxi, and its highest peak, Mount Huanggang, is the highest point of both provinces. The range boasts altitudes of 200 metres (660 ft.) at its lowest to over 2,100 metres (7,000 ft.) at its highest! Yet tall, dark, and handsome though these mountains may be, their true value lies in their cultural, scenic, and natural importance. In fact, this range has played such a significant role in Chinese history that UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1999.

The range is characterised by rushing waters, deep river valleys, columnar cliffs, and complex cave systems. In the western portion, the peaks typically consist of volcanic rock, while in the eastern area they are mainly made up of red sandstone with steep slopes and flat tops. This creates a myriad of landscapes, from sheer white cliffs to rusty red plinths. The mountains form a protective barrier against the northwesterly winds and, as a result, the climate within the range is humid with a high level of rainfall and plenty of condensation. Watching the peaks rise mistily out of the fog is truly breath-taking, that is if you can see through all the sweat on your face!

The range represents some of the finest examples of both Chinese subtropical forests and South Chinese rainforests. These habitats support a rich ecology and biodiversity that has thrived since the Ice Age over 3 million years ago. From evergreen broad-leaved forests to bamboo forests and meadow steppes, the plethora of greenery will not leaf you wanting more! In fact, these diverse environments house over 3,500 species of plant, 4,500 species of insect, and 450 species of vertebrates.

These include 49 species that are endemic to China and 3 that are endemic specifically to the Wuyi Mountains, such as David’s parrotbill and Pope’s spiny toad. Just watch your step; Clifford H. Pope named that toad for a reason! Numerous endangered species, including clouded leopards and South Chinese tigers, all prowl the expanse of these mountains. Yet by far the most revered and feared members of the Wuyi community are its snakes. From King cobras and bamboo vipers to 33-foot-long pythons, these slithery serpents have been worshipped, eaten, and used in medicine by the locals for hundreds of years. Steak and chips? Why not try snake and chips?

Archaeological evidence indicates that the Wuyi Mountain region was occupied by humans before the Xia Dynasty (c. 2100-1600 BC) but was not consolidated into the Chinese empire until the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD). In the 1st century BC, a large administrative town named Chengcun was established there and, during the 7th century, the royal Wuyi Palace was built nearby.

It was then that Wuyi achieved its status as a sacred mountain. It became the first centre for Taoism in the region and many Taoist temples and academies were founded here, until Taoism was superseded by Buddhism in the 17th century. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the mountain had become such a holy spot that Emperor Xuanzong issued a decree forbidding fishing and logging in the area; a decree which is still active today. So if you’re hankering for some fish fingers, you’ll need to look elsewhere!

mount wuyiDuring the Song Dynasty (960-1279) it reached the height, or should I say peak, of its cultural importance as it became the cradle for the revolutionary school of thought known as Neo-Confucianism. In 1183, scholar Zhu Xi established the famous Wuyi Jingshe Academy on the mountain range and began developing the doctrines that would evolve into Neo-Confucianism. This school of thought is considered to be the most influential of its kind throughout the whole of the Far East.

From the 11th to the 16th century there was an imperial tea farm here, which produced tea solely for the imperial court. Tea cultivation has become a main source of income for the Wuyi locals and, of the many types of tea grown here, the four most famous are: Big Red Robe, Iron Arhat, White Cockscomb, and Golden Turtle Tea. The mother bushes of all these teas can be found on this mountain range and tea from one of only three Big Red Robe mother bushes is so valuable that, in some instances, it can sell for up to $1,025,000 a kilogram (approximately £657,000)!

Nowadays, the incredible history of these mountains can be witnessed in the 18 wooden boat coffins sheltered on its steep cliffs that date back to the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 BC); the remains of 35 ancient academies that were built from the Song to the Qing (1644-1912) dynasties; and the 60 Taoist temples and monasteries that are littered throughout the range in varying degrees of ruin. Only four administrative buildings of the ancient city of Chengcun remain and the ruins of the Wuyi Palace have now been incorporated into a sort of living museum.

The Nine-Bend River meanders through a deep gorge in the centre of the range and is a staggering 60 kilometres (37 miles) in length. A bamboo raft ride down the river rewards any visitor with stunning views of the surrounding peaks and historical ruins that make this mountain so precious. However, if you’re feeling a little seasick, you may want to try hiking along the mountains instead! Other areas of scenic value include the celebrated Jade Maiden Peak, Water Curtain Cave, Heavenly Tour Peak, and Roaring Tiger Peak.

Impression Da Hong Pao is a 60 minute show that was masterminded by Zhang Yimou, the director behind House of Flying Daggers and similar shows such as Impression Liu Sanjie in Guangxi and Impression Lijiang in Yunnan. It is a stunning lightshow that uses the Wuyi Mountains as its natural backdrop and incorporates hundreds of local actors.

Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang)

With a name as illustrious as Black Dragon Pool, it’s unsurprising someone would try to reuse it. There are in fact two Black Dragon Pools in Yunnan alone; one in Kunming and one in Lijiang. However, while the legend behind Kunming’s pool recounts the deeds of 10 nefarious black dragons; its counterpart in Lijiang is named in honour of the Dragon God. In ancient Chinese mythology this deity, known originally as Longwan but now as Longshen, controlled rainfall and was thus an important figure back when China was an agricultural civilization. Yet, in spite of China’s technological advancement and secular government, these ancient gods still play a significant role in the everyday lives of many Chinese people. After all, if it worked for their ancestors, who’s to say it won’t work for them!

Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is located in Jade Spring Park just north of Lijiang Old Town. Its scenic location at the foot of Elephant Hill, with the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looming in the distance, is what has earned the park so much fame throughout Yunnan. From the white marble Suocui Bridge that stretches over the wide expanse of the pool, the view of this snowy mountain amongst the wispy clouds has become iconic and now features as one of the must-see attractions in Lijiang. Throughout summer and autumn, the park is alive with the milky white blossoms of the aquatic Gagnepain Dandy flowers floating on the water and the luxuriant old chestnut trees hanging over the banks.

In the east of the park, you’ll find the Longshen or Dragon God Temple. This temple was constructed by the local Naxi people in 1737, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), and was given the name “Dragon God Temple” by Emperor Qianlong who, after visiting the temple, believed that the Dragon God lived there. The temple consists of five courtyards, a gate-house flanked by two wing-rooms, and a great hall. The courtyards are bedecked with splendid flowers befitting the God of Rain himself. The great hall is used by locals to host sacrificial rituals and pray for rain. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a few of the Naxi people singing or playing traditional instruments. These age-old songs pierce through time, linking the Naxi people to their ancient past.

At the centre of the Black Dragon Pool, connected to the shore by an elaborately carved marble bridge, you’ll find the Moon Embracing Pavilion. It was originally built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) but was tragically destroyed in a fire and rebuilt in 1963. How a building surrounded by water managed to catch fire we do not know, nor do we know how this pavilion manages to embrace the moon from its rather rooted position here on earth, but what we do know is this restored pavilion provides a wonderful view of the pool’s crystal clear waters.

Towards the north end of the park, the magnificent Five-Phoenix Tower overlooks the northern entrance. This 23-metre-tall tower was built in 1601, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), but was originally located at the Fuguo Temple, 30 kilometres to the west of its current location. It was relocated to the Jade Spring Park in 1979 and has since become one of the focal features of Lijiang. It is a marvel of Naxi construction, combining features of Naxi, Tibetan, Bai, and Han style architecture. It is luxuriously decorated with colourful paintings and elaborate carvings, and is so-named because from a certain perspective five beautiful cornices are visible on either side of the tower.

When you visit the Black Dragon Pool, be sure to stop off at the ancient Naxi stage. It’s one of the oldest stages in Lijiang and is housed within an unusual triangular shaped building. Performances are held regularly on the stage and, if you’re feeling particularly brave, the locals will surely welcome a performance from you too!

Just outside of the park’s northern entrance, there’s the Dongba Culture Research Institute and Dongba Culture Museum. These two establishments are dedicated to the research and preservation of the Dongba religion, part of the Naxi ethnic minority’s cultural heritage. The Dongba script, the last known hieroglyphic writing system still in use, is particularly magnificent and it’s certainly worth making a stop at the museum to marvel at some of the ancient sacred texts on display.

Erhai Lake

On a sunny day, the snow-capped Cangshan Mountains are reflected in the deep waters of the Erhai Lake, and the seeming inseparability of these two natural wonders gave rise to the local saying “silver Cangshan and jade Erhai”. The name “Erhai” literally means the “Er Sea” and it’s referred to as a “sea” because it covers an area of 250 square kilometres, making it 17 times the size of Lake Windermere, England’s largest natural lake! In fact, the lake is so large that it sports a number of islands, which in turn support small fishing villages and temples.

From the peaks of Cangshan, Erhai Lake looks like a ribbon winding around the coast. It is characterised by its narrowness, being 41 kilometres long but only 3 to 9 kilometres wide. Beneath its murky depths, the lake is home to a diverse community of fish, including 3 species of carp that can only be found in Erhai. This makes the lake an ideal place to fish and for many years it has remained an important food source for the local Bai ethnic minority. If you travel to Erhai, you’ll be treated to a demonstration of the Bai people’s traditional technique of fishing, where they use trained cormorants to catch the fish and return them to the fishermen.

There are plenty of places by the lakeside where you can rent a small boat and venture out onto the waters. You can visit some of the nearby islands, including Jinsuo or “Golden Shuttle” Island, Nanzhao Folklore Island and Xiaoputuo Island, and marvel at a few of the Buddhist temples there. The most magnificent of these temples is considered to be the one on Xiaoputuo Island, which was built during the 15th century. Though it is small, it perfectly exhibits the ancient architectural-style of a typical Buddhist temple and looks particularly beautiful reflected in the lake. Just don’t expect to find any tiny monks inside!

On the lakeside, the stunning Butterfly Spring and charming Erhai Lake Park make for a wonderful day out. The park rests at the base of Tuanshan Peak on the Cangshan Mountains and boasts an arboretum, a public swimming pool, a zoo and a path to an observation deck further up the mountain. In spring, the park is awash with blossoms as the camellias, azaleas, primrose, and numerous exotic trees bloom. Similarly, the Butterfly Spring is a flurry of lively, colourful butterflies, all emerging from their cocoons and gracefully gliding through the air.

Alongside the park, a number of teahouses and restaurants run by members of the Bai ethnic minority provide visitors with a tantalising taste of traditional Bai cuisine. You can even take part in the Three Teas Ceremony whilst casually admiring the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The Three Pagodas, Dali Ancient Town and the Bai village of Xizhou are all within cycling distance of the lake, making it a perfect resting spot on your tour of the region.

The Li River

The Li River, also known as Lijiang, is probably the most famous scenic spot in all of Guangxi. It is so prominent that a tableau of the Li River is featured on the Chinese 20 Yuan note. The river is surrounded by Karst Mountains, which boast such unusual shapes and verdant greenery that they have an almost mythical appearance. The Li River has become one of Guangxi’s most popular tourist attractions and a number of different river cruises are now available, allowing visitors to experience the majesty of the Karst Mountains first-hand.

Many of these cruises focus on the stretch of river between the city of Guilin and Yangshuo County Town, which is about 83 kilometres (52 miles) long. They usually start at Zhujiang Wharf, which is about 40 minutes’ drive from Guilin, and can take upwards of 4 to 5 hours to reach Yangshuo. The scenery between Guilin and Yangshuo is truly stunning and many of the scenic spots, such as Elephant Trunk Hill, have been given special names based on their appearance or on legends that relate to them. If you take a tour on one of the many luxury cruise ships leaving from Zhujiang Wharf, your guide will undoubtedly treat you to a few of the delightful fairy tales and myths behind some of these scenic spots.

Li river rmbAs you travel along the Li River, you’ll notice wild and domestic water buffalo grazing on the riverbanks or swimming in the river, farmers with their conical hats working on the rice paddies, and a unique type of fisherman found only in Guangxi. These ingenious fishermen use cormorants to fish for them, which they train from birth. These large, black waterfowl dive into the rushing water, swimming underneath the surface and snapping up fish. They then return to the boat, where the fisherman pulls the fish out of their gullets. The fisherman will have tied a fine thread around the cormorant’s throat, which is what stops it from swallowing the fish. Once the fishing is complete, the fisherman will release the tie on the cormorant’s throat and reward it with a few small fish. Normally one fisherman will be accompanied by two cormorants and will traverse the river using a slim, bamboo raft. Unfortunately this type of fishing is a dying art and is now primarily used to attract tourism rather than as an effective means of fishing.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to take such a long cruise, you can always head straight to Yangshuo and take one of the simple bamboo raft cruises up a small portion of the Li River. This usually only takes a couple of hours at most and still provides many wonderful views of the Karst Mountains and popular scenic spots along the river.

Enjoy the beautiful Li River on our travel: Explore the culture of Ethnic minorities in Southeast Guizhou

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Legend has it that, long ago, a tiger was running from a hunter when he was cornered on the river banks. With the rapids thundering behind him and the gorge rising up on all sides, he had nowhere to go. Suddenly, as the hunter approached, the tiger leapt from the bank to a rock in the centre of the rushing water, and then jumped to safety on the opposite bank. Supposedly the tiger cleared 25 metres (82 ft.) in order to escape the hunter, a feat unmatched by any modern tiger, and since then it has been known as Tiger Leaping Gorge.

The gorge is made up of a canyon with the Jinsha River running through it. It can be found about 60 kilometres (37 mi) north of Lijiang City and, since the Jinsha River makes up the upper reaches of the magnificent Yangtze River, it is part of the Three Parallel Rivers Site. At its maximum depth, there is approximately 3,790 metres (12,434 ft.) from river to mountain peak, making Tiger Leaping Gorge one of the deepest river canyons in the world.

It marks the point where the river passes between the colossal Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain. At its base, the gorge stretches 15 kilometres in length and is flanked on one side by a series of rapids and on the other by 2,000 metre-high cliffs. With that in mind, I’m sure we can all appreciate how terrifying it must have been to leap over!

Due to its ecological importance, the area itself is now protected. Several different ecological and climate zones meet in the region, which has resulted in an unusually large number of plant and animal species thriving here. Many rare plants and animals can be found in the gorge, making wildlife preservation of paramount importance. If only that had been the case years ago, and then perhaps it would be called Tiger Resting Gorge instead!

It is now a popular tourist location for both Chinese and foreign tourists who want to enjoy a challenging hike and admire the magnificent scenery. There are a number of hiking trails you can take, but most of them begin near the Upper Gorge in the town of Qiaotou, also known as Tiger Leaping Gorge Town, and finish in the town of Daju near the Lower Gorge. The Lower Trail is the shortest, easiest and most popular with Chinese tourists. It is made up of a road that was recently built along the south side of the river, which you can either hike or take a tour bus along. This trail offers wonderful views of the foaming waters as they rush through the gorge and will take you past the Tiger Leaping Rock, making it the ideal option if you don’t feel up to the more strenuous hikes.

The High Trail can only be hiked and provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a little solitude, revelling in the true majesty of the gorge. Most of the trail is at an elevation of about 2,700 metres (8,800 ft.) and is mostly one kilometre above the river, meaning you can still hear the water as it thunders below you. The trail is approximately 22 kilometres (14 mi) long and features a number of micro-ecosystems, waterfalls and verdant forests along the way. Many locals from the Naxi ethnic minority live in nearby villages and use this trail daily, meaning you can connect with some of the ethnic culture whilst hiking. Be forewarned, the Naxi people are a matriarchal culture and their women are notoriously bossy, so don’t cross one or you might end up leaping across the gorge yourself!

If you fancy a real challenge, you can enhance your hiking experience by taking the optional trails to Walnut Grove and the Bamboo Forest. The High Trail descends to meet the Low Trail at Tiger Leaping Rock, which is the point along the river where the tiger supposedly leapt over.

Depending on your speed, the trail should take you between one and a half days to three days. We recommend you take a leisurely pace, as this affords the opportunity to stop and marvel at the scenery on your way. There are plenty of guesthouses and hotels littered throughout the trail that provide hikers with supplies, meals and a place to stay.

The trails are all considered impassable during the rainy season, which is from June to September. Heavy rain increases the risk of landslides and people have died there before during adverse weather conditions. We strongly recommend that you avoid visiting during this season, as it is not worth the risk. The best times to hike the gorge are October, November and May, as the weather is temperate but not too wet.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Long before recorded time, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain were brothers who made a living panning the Jinsha or “Golden Sands” River. They lived a happy life, until one day an evil fiend attacked them and took over the river. But the brave brothers did not flinch. They took up arms and fought the fiend with all their might. Haba, the first brother, tragically died in the fight, but Jade Dragon was able to drive away the fiend using his 13 swords. Thereafter, Jade Dragon guarded the local villages and carried his 13 swords with him day and night. For their heroic deeds, the immortals transformed the two brothers into two snow-capped mountains, and Jade Dragon’s 13 swords became the 13 peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The people of the Naxi ethnic minority still revere the mountains as holy places and honour the memories of these two heroes to this day.

Each of the 13 peaks has an altitude of at least 4,000 metres (13,123 ft.) and at different altitudes up the peak you’ll find different temperature zones. This makes the mountain range a safe haven for rare animals and plants, with one fourth of all plant species in China being found on the mountain, and 20 primeval forests sheltering 400 types of trees and 30 species of animals that are under national protection. Its highest peak, known as Shanzidou, has an elevation of over 5,500 metres (18,300 ft.) and its dangerously high avalanche risk means it has only been climbed once. So, unless you want to get covered in a dragon’s length of snow, we recommend taking the cable cars!

Whether its holidaymaking, mountaineering, skiing, or hiking, this small mountain range caters to a variety of tourists. It’s only 15 kilometres south of Lijiang Ancient Town and the view from Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is considered one of the most magnificent in Yunnan. It is said that, from a distance, the fog-enlaced mountains look like a jade dragon lying in the clouds. This may be where the mountain range gets its name, but the epic Naxi tale of Jade Dragon and his 13 swords sounds far more enchanting, doesn’t it?

On the eastern side of the mountains, you’ll find Tiger Leaping Gorge, which offers a plethora of hiking trails that should not be missed. On the western side, there are still more hiking opportunities, with cable cars leading to Glacier’s Park, Dry Sea Meadow, Yak Meadow and Spruce Meadow. At an elevation of about 4,500 metres (14,757 ft.), the tram building at Glacier’s Park is one of the highest in the world and provides visitors with access to a glacier and a path that leads to the summit of a high peak, reaching altitudes of about 4,600 metres (15,350 ft.). For those of you who aren’t used to such dizzying heights, there are vendors on hand selling tanks of oxygen. The view from the peak is truly spectacular and, along the way, the snow is ripe for plentiful snowball fights!

The Dry Sea Meadow and Yak Meadow are both at an altitude of around 3,500 metres (about 12,000 ft.) and can be accessed by the same cable car. The Dry Sea Meadow was once a lake that has since dried up, while the Yak Meadow is grassy area where farmers graze their yaks. Both areas are extremely peaceful, as they draw few crowds, and there’s even a beautiful temple at Yak Meadow where visitors can rest and admire the simple but majestic yaks. Similarly, a third tram goes to Spruce Meadow, which is only at an elevation of about 3,200 metres (10,500 ft.) and is equally as tranquil.

On the south side of the mountain range, there is a small village known as Jade Water Village. Since it is only 8 kilometres north of Lijiang Ancient Town, its very accessible and provides still more sightseeing opportunities. From the village, you can either hike up the mountains or take a guided horse riding tour through the designated park areas. Jade Water Village and other small Naxi villages around the mountains also offer the chance to sample Naxi delicacies such as yak milk tea and yak steak. Just don’t take any of these tasty snacks up to Yak Meadow, or you might offend someone!

Mount Hua

According to legend, the Queen Mother of the West was holding her Flat Peach Carnival when she accidentally spilled some of her jade wine down from paradise, which caused a colossal flood here on earth. The flood destroyed all of the villages in the Huashan area so the deity Shaohao informed the Jade Emperor of the disaster. The Jade Emperor promptly sent the deity Juling to earth to stem the flood. As Juling descended from the clouds he rested his left hand on one side of the peak and his right leg on the other, which ripped the mountain into two halves and allowed the floodwater to rush out. His handprint supposedly remains on the Immortal’s Palm Peak, which sits high up on Mount Hua.

Standing at an impressive 2,100 metres (7,070 ft.) at its highest peak, it is no wonder that Mount Hua is listed as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. It is located approximately 120 kilometres east of Xi’an, near a city called Huayin. It sits at the eastern end of the Qin Mountains and is made up of five peaks. Although the mountain is undoubtedly a phenomenal natural specimen, it is more well-known in China for its spiritual and religious significance. Each of its five peaks has an intricately woven folktale behind it, which is intertwined with the Chinese mythology that is now known to be part legend and part historical fact. To the locals and to the average visitor, Mount Hua has an unmistakably mystical feel about it. If you’re looking for somewhere where you can embrace your spirituality and discover more about the fascinating schools of thought behind Chinese philosophy, then a trip to Mount Hua is a must.

The five main peaks of the mountain are simply named East Peak, South Peak, West Peak, Central Peak, and North Peak, with South Peak being the highest and North Peak being the lowest.

Every peak has inherited a second name according to its features or the legendary stories behind it.

Central Peak is known as Jade Maiden Peak. The story behind its name is a perfect example of how Chinese legend has become inseparably intertwined with history. There is a Taoist Temple at the top of this peak called the Jade Maiden Temple. Legend has it that the daughter of Duke Mu of Qin[1] (569 – 621 BC) loved a man who was talented at playing the tung-hsiao[2]. In order to avoid this temptation and cultivate her spirituality, she gave up the royal life she had become accustomed to and became a hermit, secreting herself on the Central Peak of Mount Hua. From then on, the temple was established and the peak was named Jade Maiden Peak after the Duke’s daughter. Near to the Jade Maiden Temple you will also find the Rootless Tree and the Sacrificing Tree, which also have mystical stories behind them that add to the ethereal feel of Central Peak.

Unfortunately not every story behind each peak is quite so magical. The South Peak is called Landing Wild Geese Peak simply because, according to legend, geese returning from the south often landed on this peak. It is home to the beautiful Black Dragon Pool and the Baidi Temple or Jintian Palace, a Taoist Temple that is nationally considered the host temple of the deity Shaohao. South Peak is also the site of the infamous Plank Road, a plank path built along the side of a vertical cliff that is only about 0.3 metres (about 1 foot) wide and forces the intrepid hiker to look down at the almost bottomless gulf below them. Although there is a chain running along the cliff-face that hikers can clip themselves on to, the experience of creeping along the narrow path and having to constantly hook and unhook yourself from your only safety net, so to speak, is only for the bravest of travellers.

Like South Peak, North Peak is rather simply named Cloud Terrace Peak because the clouds that accumulate around the peak look like a flat terrace. It looks so uncanny that you might get the impression you could almost step out onto the clouds. On one side of the peak is the Ear-Touching Cliff, which is so narrow that you supposedly have to press your ear to the cliff-face to climb it. Although this may seem like a joke, it is important to note that some of the paths on Mount Hua, such as the infamous Plank Road, are notoriously treacherous. The government has tried to put in as many safety measures as it can to make them safer but it is advised that you take the risks into careful consideration before venturing out onto the more dangerous paths. Historically there have been fatalities on these paths when visitors have not been careful or not heeded the warnings.

The West Peak is called the Lotus Flower Peak because there is a Taoist Temple there called Cuiyun Palace which has a huge rock in front of it that looks like a lotus flower. There are seven other rocks by Cuiyun Palace that are supposedly the site where the legendary hero Chenxiang ripped the mountain apart to save his mother, the Heavenly Goddess San Sheng Mu, in the folktale “The Magic Lotus Lantern”.

The East Peak, also known as Facing Sun Peak, is the best place to watch the sunrise and takes approximately 4 to 6 hours to climb. It is home to the famous Immortal’s Palm Peak mentioned earlier. Immortal Palm’s Peak is ranked as one of the Eight Scenic Wonders of the Guanzhong Area and is so-called because of the natural rock veins on the cliff, which look like a giant handprint and were supposedly caused by the deity Juling when he fell from heaven.

As early as the 2nd century B.C., it was recorded that a Taoist temple named the Shrine of the Western Peak rested at the base of the mountain. Taoists believed that the god of the underworld lived inside the mountain and this temple was used primarily by spirit mediums to contact this god and his underlings. Unlike Mount Taishan, which attracted many pilgrims, Mount Hua only seemed to attract Imperial pilgrims or local pilgrims due to its relative inaccessibility. Historically this earned it the reputation of being a retreat only for the hardiest of hermits, regardless of what religion they followed, as only those who were particularly strong-willed or spiritually enlightened could master the treacherous climb. Nowadays there are a number of temples and religious structures littered throughout the mountain, including a Taoist temple atop the Southern Peak that has been converted into a teahouse. At the foot of the mountain you’ll also find Xinyue Temple and the Jade Spring Temple. The sheer number of temples and religious constructions on and around the mountain demonstrate just how spiritually significant it is.

With all of the myths, history and spirituality behind it, Mount Hua has truly lived up to its reputation as one of the Five Great Mountains of China. When climbing the mountain and visiting the many temples on its peaks, you’re guaranteed not only beautiful scenic views but also a sense of spiritual calmness.

Xinyue Temple

Xinyue Temple rests at the bottom of Mount Hua. It was built to honour the god that is believed to live inside the mountain and was constructed during the reign of Emperor Wudi of the Western Han Dynasty (206 B.C. – 24 A.D.). Its stunning appearance and monumental size have earned it the name “The Forbidden City of Shaanxi Province”. Important scenic spots in Xinyue Temple include Haoling Gate, Five-Phoenix Pavilion, Lingxing Gate, Golden City Gate, Haoling Palace, the Emperor’s Study, and Longevity Pavilion. In the Five-Phoenix Pavilion there is a place called the Small Steles Forest where there are many impressive steles[3], including one of the most famous steles in the world: the Huashan Monument.

The Jade Spring Temple (Yuquan Temple)

The Jade Spring Temple is a Taoist temple that rests at the foot of Mount Hua. Its main function is to hold Taoist activities and to allow its monks to practice Taoism. It was built by Jia Desheng during the Northern Song Dynasty (960 – 1127) to honour his teacher Chen Tuan[4] (871 – 989). Its name originates from a charming tale about a girl named the Golden Fairy Princess. Supposedly the Golden Fairy Princess was washing her hair beside the Jade Well on Mount Hua when she accidentally dropped her beautiful jade hair clasp into the well. She searched far and wide for her precious hair clasp but to no avail. Miraculously, as she was washing her hands with the spring water at the temple, she found her lost jade hair clasp. Since this spring was connected to the Jade Well, the princess decided to name the temple the Jade Spring Temple. Important scenic spots at this temple include the Long Corridor of Seventy-two Windows, which is a unique construction among Taoist temples across China.

[1] Duke Mu of Qin: He was the fourteenth ruler of the Zhou Dynasty State of Qin.

[2] Tsung-hsiao: A kind of Chinese flute that is held vertically rather than horizontally.

[3] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

[4] Chen Tuan: He was a famous scholar and hermit of the Quanzhen branch of Taoism. He helped to combine elements of Quietism, Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism, which greatly aided the development of neo-Confucianism.

Join our travel to challenge the Mount Hua: Explore the Silk Road in China and Explore Chinese Culture through the Ages