Hemu Village

Hemu xinjiang 01

Nestled within the Altay Mountains of northern Burqin County lies the small and tranquil village of Hemu. It is heralded as one of the six most beautiful villages in China and, once you catch a glimpse of it, you’ll soon see why. As the sun rises over the grasslands and illuminates the bright white birch forests nearby, smoke curls up from the chimneys of the village’s quaint log cabins, marking the beginning of a new day. The hundred or so families who live here will while away these daylight hours by grazing their sheep and cattle on the jade green pastures, washing their vegetables in the shimmering Hemu River, or simply taking a long horse-ride through the misty mountains. In summer, the place is awash with the lushest greens, while in autumn accents of gold, red, and purple fleck the landscape.

This rustic paradise, also known as Horm Village, has been home to the native Tuvan people for over a thousand years. Along with Baihaba Village, it is one of the largest Tuvan villages in China, although it also boasts small communities of Mongolian and Kazakh people. The Tuvans are a Siberian people who have Mongolian, Turkic, and Samoyedic roots. Although tourism has now become an important part of their annual income, many of them continue to make a living by hunting and raising animals. In fact, they farm anything from sheep and cows to yaks and even reindeer! They build their log cabins by hand using wood harvested from the nearby forests, which means the village seamlessly blends in with its natural surroundings. Many of the homes have a portrait of Genghis Khan hanging over their fireplace, as the Tuvans believe that they are descended from the soldiers of his ancient and mighty army. So it goes without saying that you shouldn’t get on their bad side!

Hemu in xinjiang02That being said, the villagers are well-known for their incredible hospitality and will happily welcome visitors into their humble homes. And what better way to greet guests than with snacks! Normally they will receive guests with an array of delicious home-made dairy products, such as yogurt, milk wine, milk tea, and freshly baked cakes. Generally speaking, it is not considered impolite to refuse the food, but some B&Bs will welcome visitors with a Tuvan tradition involving two compulsory bowls of milk tea. The host will pour the first bowl and offer the drinker butter, which they can add to taste. As soon as the first bowl is finished, the host will fill it again. According to local belief, it is this second bowl that will grant the drinker good luck. That is, unless you’re lactose intolerant!

In terms of spiritual belief, the Tuvan are firm followers of both Tibetan Buddhism and a folk religion known as Tengrism. This Central Asian faith borrows features from shamanism[1], animism[2], and ancestor worship, and was once the prevailing religion of the Turks, Mongolians, and Hungarians. The rich tapestry of customs and beliefs that the Tuvan subscribe to can be felt most palpably in their lively religious festivals, so plan your visit carefully if you want to experience one.

hemu in xinjiangThe village itself is only 70 kilometres (43 mi) away from Kanas Lake, so it’s a popular stop for tourists on their way to the Kanas Lake Nature Reserve. If you’re a fan of hiking, then there is a short hike that leads to a nearby observation platform, which yields stunning panoramic views of the village and the surrounding countryside. For the more adventurous hikers, we recommend venturing out onto the Hemu Grassland, although we strongly advise that you take a local guide with you as the routes are quite treacherous and the local wild boar can be dangerous if encountered. If you’re lucky, you may even come across a cluster of pearl white yurts. Some of these belong to the local Tuvan people, but others are the temporary homes of the Kazakh ethnic minority. Like the Tuvans, the Kazakhs are exceptionally friendly and will happily welcome visitors into their yurt. Just be sure to ask for permission first!

 

 

[1] Shamanism: The practice of attempting to reach altered states of consciousness in order to communicate with the spirit world and channel energy from it into the real world. This can only be done by specialist practitioners known as shaman.

[2] Animism: The belief that all non-human entities, including animals, plants, and even inanimate objects, possess a spiritual essence or soul.

The Kanas Lake Nature Reserve

kanas lake

The remote Kanas Lake Nature Reserve rests in the northernmost reaches of Xinjiang and is over 180 kilometres (112 mi) away from the nearest town, making it an area resplendent with virtually untouched natural beauty. It is situated close to the borders between Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and Russia, and it contains the aptly named Youyi or “Friendship” Peak, which is the landmark where China, Russia, and Mongolia approximately meet. The word “Kanas” means “beautiful, rich, and mysterious” in the Mongolian language and, with its towering snowy peaks, thick green forests, and turquoise hued waters, it certainly lives up to the title!

Its primary attraction is the expansive Kanas Lake, which rests deep within a valley of the Altay Mountains. Its crystal clear waters originate from the Kanas Glacier and run for over 125 kilometres (77 mi) along the Kanas River before finally joining the lake itself. It was formed over 200,000 years ago as a result of glacier movement and is the deepest freshwater lake in China, plunging in at depths of up to 120 metres (394 ft.). Stretching out over an area of 45 square kilometres (17 sq. mi), it is over three times the size of Lake Windermere!

kanas villageSeasonal changes and weather conditions endow the lake with a constantly changing appearance. In May, melted snow from the surrounding peaks turns the water a greyish blue colour; in July, it turns a bright aquamarine; in August, the algae turns the water a deep green; and from September onwards it goes a rich turquoise. As if in tandem with these watery wardrobe changes, the surrounding alpine forests also evolve, with dense greens in spring, thick multi-coloured blankets of flowers in summer, and lush golds, reds, and yellows in autumn.

Yet don’t let Kanas’ idyllic appearance fool you; it’s not like your typical lakeside retreat. Temperatures here can plummet to -24°C (-11°F) in winter and rest at an average of about -4°C (39°F), reaching heights of just 18°C (66°F) in July. So if you’re taking a trip to this natural paradise, be sure to wrap up warm! The low temperatures mean it is the only region in China that is home to Siberian animal species and, with over 117 different species of bird regularly nesting here, it’s also a haven for bird-watchers.

But these aren’t the only strange creatures prowling the area, or at least that’s what paranormal researchers would have you believe. Since the 1980s, rumours of the Kanas Lake Monster have enthralled visitors and nowadays sightings of it occur once or twice every year. It is even said that, on the odd occasion, it drags local livestock into the lake’s murky depths! Scientists believe the most likely culprit to be a large taimen or Siberian salmon, which people have mistaken for an otherworldly creature. These freaky fish can reach lengths of nearly 2 metres, so it’s no wonder people might be horrified at the sight of them! Another bizarre phenomenon is that the sixth bay, which rests at the end of the lake, is flanked by a 2,000-metre-long (6,500 ft.) bank of dead trees. No one knows exactly what is stopping the trees from floating downriver, but locals will tell you it’s because they’re reluctant to leave the beautiful lake!

Kanas mountainsThese days the lake is a popular destination for hiking, rafting, rock climbing, paragliding, and boating, with the most popular hike being the one to Guangyu Pavilion. This scenic spot offers a stunning panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and grasslands. In terms of accommodation, Burqin is the closest town and the best option if you want easy access to the lake. From there you can also visit the nearby village of Hemu, which is a popular site for tourists as its home to people from the Tuvan ethnic group, a Siberian people who have Mongolian, Turkic, and Samoyedic roots. The village rests on the Hemu Grasslands and visitors have the choice of either staying with a Tuvan family or venturing onto the plains and staying in a yurt with people of the Kazakh ethnic minority. It’s a wonderful way to connect with other cultures, sample their delicious local dishes, witness their centuries-old customs, and experience their unique way of life. That being said, bear in mind that the Tuvan people trace their ancestry back to the legendary troops of Genghis Khan, so be sure not to get on their bad side!

 

 

 

Xinjiang Local Snacks

Much like the region’s cuisine, the local snacks in Xinjiang have a certain undeniable Central Asian flair that sets them apart from other delicacies in China. Since many of its cities were once powerful oasis towns along the Silk Road, the region has played host to a plethora of different ethnic groups and borrowed all of the finest features from their cooking styles. Thanks to bustling livestock markets and vibrant bazaars, the trading culture in Xinjiang’s cities is still palpable today and provides a unique insight into what the Silk Road may have been like. Vendors hawk anything from olives and freshly baked-bread to honey and some of the sweetest raisins you’ll ever taste. With the thick aroma of crushed spices and freshly roasted mutton wafting through the air, these markets are a veritable paradise for the senses.

Naan (馕)

naanAlternatively known as nan or nang, this delicious type of flatbread is popular throughout Central Asia and really attests to the region’s ethnic diversity. In Xinjiang, the Uyghur ethnic minority have become particularly dextrous at developing and cooking their own unique varieties of naan bread. The dough is first flattened by hand, curled at the edges, and then stamped with a spiked tool, which creates a laced pattern of holes and helps the bread to cook evenly. It is then sprinkled with a mixture of black onion seeds, sesame seeds, and chopped garlic to give the naan its characteristic flavour.

They are traditionally baked in a special clay oven known as a tandoor and watching them being cooked is a spectacle in of itself, as vendors reach deep into the fiery pit and literally slap the dough onto the walls of the oven! After just a few minutes of baking, the flatbread has turned a rich golden brown and is ready to eat. The size, shape, and seasoning of the naan may differ between cities and even vendors, but the result is always a soft, warm flatbread that tastes great as an accompaniment to a meal or simply as a hearty snack on the go.

Samsas (烤包子)

SamsasThese little parcels of spicy goodness are known throughout most of Central Asia as samosas, but are called samsas in Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Xinjiang. Unlike other styles of samosa, Xinjiang samsas are traditionally baked rather than fried, giving them a much fluffier texture. The dough used can be simple bread dough or layered pastry dough, which is then stuffed full of delicious filling.

Minced lamb and onions is the most popular combination, although variations include chicken, minced beef, cheese, potato, and pumpkin. The filling, as well as the general shape of the samsa, differs from vendor to vendor, so you’ll be spoilt for choice! They are traditionally cooked in a tandoor oven and are sold on the streets as a scrumptious snack. If you can’t get enough of these tasty little parcels, there are also larger versions available known as kumach, which are considered a meal in of themselves. Just try not to eat too many, or you’ll end up as round as the samsas!

Matang (麻糖)

matangMatang is another speciality of the Uyghur ethnic minority and comes in many incarnations, each one more delightful than the last! This sugary snack is said to have originated from the town of Hotan in southwest Xinjiang, which is famous for its thinly shelled walnuts. The traditional cooking process has been passed down in this region from generation to generation and utilises only the finest locally grown grapes. These grapes are boiled down into a sugary syrup, which is then mixed with crushed walnuts and left to boil for even longer. Once the mixture has achieved the right density, it is pressed into a mould, left to set, and then elaborately decorated with candied fruit. The result is a devilishly sweet and sticky treat that you’ll be happy to get stuck in your teeth!

Nowadays other varieties of matang use different types of nuts, including almonds and cashews, and honey instead of grape syrup. They range in flavour and texture from ones that are as soft and creamy as nougat to ones with a real toffee-like crunchiness. After you’ve asked the vendor how much you’d like, he’ll deftly cut off a sizeable chunk using his knife, chop it into bite-sized pieces, and weigh it on his scales before handing it over. Once you’ve had your first taste of this chewy treat, we’re sure you’ll go nuts for it!

Museles (穆塞莱斯酒)

MuselesSince grapes are abundant in Xinjiang, it goes without saying that wine is too! In fact, wine production has been an important part of the local economy in the city of Turpan since the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) and was celebrated by ancient Chinese poets as “Western nectar”. This type of wine, known as museles, was masterminded by the Uyghur ethnic minority and, although their Muslim faith prohibits them from drinking alcohol, they view this beverage more as a kind of medicine. With its pungent aroma and sweetly sour flavour, it’s sure to cure what ails you! Although nowadays many contemporary winemakers in China follow French methods of production, the Uyghur people have held on to their traditional wine-making process for centuries. In many villages throughout Xinjiang, the brewing of museles is a communal activity and usually marks the end of the grape harvest.

Locally grown grapes are first crushed by hand and strained using Uyghur atlas silk. The juice is then combined with an equal amount of water and a heaping helping of sugar, and is left to boil until it has halved in volume. Thereafter it is stored in ceramic urns and combined with a dizzying number of extra ingredients. These folk recipes vary between localities and can typically include goji berries, mulberries, sea buckthorn, saffron, cloves, and even raw, plucked pheasants, pigeon’s blood, and lamb meat! These animal parts are said to enhance the flavour and endow the wine with many of its medicinal qualities. So forget about hair of the dog; it’s time for wine of the pigeon! The wine is left to brew for about two months before being filtered, bottled, and stored. The result is a deep red grape-wine with a powerful musty aroma and a spiced taste, much like vermouth.

 

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Xinjiang Cuisine

xinjiang-snacks

As the largest autonomous region in China, Xinjiang boasts substantial contingencies of different ethnic groups and is well-known for its Central Asian flair. Its cities are dominated by the Uyghur ethnic minority, as well as several other Muslim groups such as the Hui and Dongxiang people, meaning the food is predominantly halal and there is a marked lack of pork compared to other parts of China. In many ways, the cuisine in Xinjiang differs from the rest of the country and is distinctly non-Chinese. Roasted mutton, thickly fragrant spices, and sugary sweet desserts take centre stage when it comes to its signature dishes.

Since many of the cities within Xinjiang were once oasis towns along the Silk Road, they felt the influence of other ethnic groups most profoundly and have cherry-picked features of their cuisine, incorporating techniques and flavours from the Tibetans, Mongolians, Persians, Turkish, and numerous other nationalities. These have all come together to form a stunning mosaic of Chinese, Central Asian, and Middle Eastern qualities. Liberal use of seasonings like cumin, chilli powder, cinnamon, garlic, and saffron sets Xinjiang cuisine apart from other styles throughout China. So you might want to keep a glass of milk handy, because we’re heading into spicy territory!

Dapanji (大盘鸡)

大盘鸡“Dapanji” literally means “Big Plate Chicken”, so it goes without saying what the signature ingredient of this dish is! It rose to popularity in Xinjiang during the 1990s, although its origins aren’t entirely clear. Several ethnic groups, including the Uyghur and Hui people, lay claim to its conception but popular belief states that it was invented in Shawan County of northern Xinjiang by an immigrant from Sichuan province, who liberally mixed hot chilli peppers into the dish in an attempt to recreate his home cuisine. After all, there’s nothing quite like a home-cooked meal!

The dish itself consists primarily of bite-sized pieces of chicken (usually with the bone in) and potatoes, which have been sautéed in a medley of spices and coarsely chopped vegetables before being simmered in broth. The required ingredients are numerous, and include bell peppers, onions, garlic, ginger, chilli peppers, ground cumin, star anise, ground Sichuan peppers, cooking oil, and occasionally soy sauce and beer. Imagine how long the chef’s shopping list must be! The result is a hearty, savoury, and mildly spicy casserole-like dish that is bursting with flavour. It is typically served with hand-pulled noodles or naan bread and is the ideal comfort food when you’re feeling peckish!

Lamb Kawap or Chuanr (烤羊肉串儿)

Lamb Kawap or ChuanrThis distinctly Uyghur dish is classified as a type of kebab. Small, sumptuous slices of lamb and tiny chunks of lamb fat are seasoned with chilli powder, salt, black pepper, and cumin before being skewered and roasted over a charcoal fire. As the meat is gently roasted, it is further sprinkled with a fragrant mixture of cumin seeds, dried red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, and sesame. Be careful not to get too close while they’re cooking, or the spicy powder might bring on a bout of sneezing!

Lamb is the meat of choice, but nowadays popular variations include chicken, beef, seafood, steamed buns, and even insects. Crunchy spiders and salty scorpions may be a little too adventurous for the average palate, but the juicy strips of lamb are sure to get your mouth watering. Each kebab is made to order and is usually served with a soft naan bread, making it the perfect lunchtime treat or just a cheeky snack on the go.

Polo (手抓饭)

poloAlternately named polo, polu, or simply Uyghur pilaf, this is a type of pilaf rice that originated from the Uyghur ethnic minority and really attests to the influence Central Asia has had on Xinjiang’s cuisine. The dish is made by first frying chopped carrots, onions, and mutton (or chicken) in oil until the vegetables are perfectly caramelised and the mutton is thoroughly cooked. Rice and water are then added, and the whole dish is steamed until the rice is cooked through and gives off a tantalising aroma. Sometimes raisins and dried apricots are scattered on top to give the dish an extra sugary tang.

The locally grown yellow carrots provide its characteristic sweetness, while the rice is deliciously buttery and the tender mutton adds a pleasant smack of saltiness. It takes a notoriously long time to cook, so most vendors will only serve it at lunchtime. This dish is so important to the region’s culture that there are even whole restaurants in Xinjiang dedicated to perfecting it. And, after you’ve tried it, we’re sure you’ll never say rice is too plain again!

Laghman (拉条子)

拉条子Like the Lanzhou Beef Noodles or lamian of Gansu province, the main ingredient of laghman or lengmen is hand-pulled noodles that are undeniably scrumptious. The dough is made from a simple mixture of flour, water, and salt, and then stretched into noodles by hand in a laboriously long and skilful process. From the outset, they have a distinctly different flavour from those found in other parts of China since they are made from wheat flour rather than rice flour.

A heaping helping of noodles are boiled until they are perfectly soft, and then topped with a rustic vegetable ragout typically made from bell peppers, eggplant, onions, chilli peppers, garlic, tomato, and any other vegetable that happens to be in season. This rich topping is made by simmering the vegetables in a pot full of meat stock and, if you’re lucky, may include a few meaty titbits. The thick texture of the noodles is perfectly complemented by this hearty sauce, making for a meal that is both filling and comforting.

 

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The Turpan Karez Water System

Turpan Karez Water System

In the language of the Uyghur ethnic minority, the word “karez” means “well”, so it should come as no surprise that the karez water system is made up almost entirely of wells! It’s located in the Turpan Depression, the second lowest depression in the world, and is made up of a series of vertical wells that channel water from the base of the Tian Shan Mountains and the Flaming Mountains into a system of underground canals that eventually resurface in the city of Turpan and become part of its irrigation system. It depends upon melted snow that has trickled down from the ice-capped mountains and takes advantage of the downward slope created by the Turpan Depression, which exploits gravitational force to propel the water through the canals. This provides a stable water source regardless of season. We’re sure you’ll all agree that it’s a very well thought out system!

The canals are predominantly underground and the surface canals are heavily sheltered by trees on either side in an attempt to prevent evaporation in the unforgivingly hot climate of Turpan. At certain points, there are entry tunnels that provide locals with direct access to the underground canals in order to get water for themselves. The average karez is about 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) long, with the longest being about 30 kilometres (19 mi) and the shortest being just 30 metres (98 ft.). Perhaps the most ingenious feature of the karez is that it effectively prevents pollution and it requires no pumps or equipment to move the water.

Similar water systems known as qanats became popular in Persia and the Middle East around about 800 BC. It is not known exactly how the Turpan people came upon the technology and the know-how to build the karez water system, but the most likely explanation is that it originated from Persia via the Silk Road. Miraculously, this intricate water system was dug out by hand using simple tools, with only buckets and draft animals to help dredge up the dirt. The oldest karez date back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC– 220 AD), although most of them were masterminded during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

Turpan Karez Water System 03

This system was crucial to Turpan’s success as an oasis town along the Silk Road, as it enabled the town to support large quantities of traders, caravans, and horses who needed to replenish their supplies as they skirted the hostile Taklamakan Desert to the southwest. Had it not been for the local people’s ingenuity, the town may have been abandoned and swept under the sands of time long ago. Not to mention, it is this water system that enables the city to produce some of the juiciest grapes and sweetest raisins in all of China! Nowadays the nearby Turpan Water Museum is entirely dedicated to demonstrating how the karez water system works and showing, through information and various artefacts, its historical importance to the region.

Turpan Karez Water System 05Over 1,100 wells still remain and the system boasts a total length of over 5,000 kilometres (3,100 mi), making it nearly twice as long as the Golden Gate Bridge! That being said, only about 300 wells are still active today. Occasionally you might catch locals relaxing in them, as they function as natural air conditioners and provide the perfect way to escape the scorching heat.

 

 

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Astana Cemetery

Buried deep beneath the earth, with only small heaps of sand to designate them, the Astana Cemetery is perhaps one of the humblest burial sites you’ll find in China. Amongst the colossal mausoleums, forests of steles[1], and entire clay armies dedicated to China’s many emperors, the rulers of Gaochang opted for a more modest way to inter their remains. Had it not been for the efforts of numerous archaeologists, we may still not know that these tombs even existed! They rest about 37 kilometres (23 mi) southeast of Turpan and 6 kilometres (4 mi) north of the Gaochang Ruins.

This was once a public cemetery, where both aristocrats and commoners from the ancient city of Gaochang were buried. Of the 1,000 tombs that make up the complex, a staggering 456 have been excavated since its discovery, but none belonging to Gaochang’s rulers have as yet been found. Books found within the tombs suggest that the complex was established in 273, during the Jin Dynasty (265-420), and was abandoned around about 778, during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). After being used for over 500 years with no foreseeable retirement, you can see why the Astana Tombs chose to bury their heads in the sand!

During the start of the 20th century, famed archaeologists such as Sergey Oldenburg, Albert von Le Coq, and Aurel Stein descended on the area and each vied for a chance to excavate the tombs. This mayhem led to many of the precious relics being stolen by said archaeologists and shipped back to their home countries for exhibition in their national museums. Talk about taking advantage of a country’s hospitality! It wasn’t until 1959 that Chinese archaeologists undertook excavations at Astana and Gaochang, and they miraculously managed to recover over 10,000 cultural relics, most of which are on display within Xinjiang Museum in Ürümqi.

The tomb complex itself stretches for 5 kilometres (3 mi) from east to west and 2 kilometres (1 mi) from north to south. Simple gravel boundaries have been used to separate the tombs, which typically each belong to one family. Generally speaking husband and wife were buried together, although in some cases a few lotharios have been found accompanied by up to two or three women!

A sloping passageway leads down to the tombs, which are each marked by a rock-cut entrance. They are only about 2 metres (6.5 ft.) high and some of them contain one or two antechambers that feature stone statues or “guardian beasts”. The bodies are often placed at the back of the room on a simple earthen or wooden bed, without any kind of coffin. They are normally clothed in silk, linen, or cotton, and have their heads resting on pillows, a cloth over their face, and a piece of wood clasped between their hands. Several of them were found with coins placed in their mouths, although the origin of this tradition is unclear.

Next to each body was placed a funeral brick, which has the person’s name and information inscribed upon it. These bricks have been invaluable to researchers in terms of identifying the remains and finding out about the lifestyles of these ancient peoples. Around the remains are miniature replicas of carts, horses, musical instruments, chess sets, pens, and anything that could be deemed useful to the dead. The remains of real foodstuffs, desiccated but identifiable, have also been found, including grapes, pears, wheat, meat, and even jam tarts!

阿斯塔纳陶盘Traditionally the Chinese believe that the afterlife is much like life on earth and that you can carry worldly goods with you, so these replicas were designed to provide the deceased with ample supplies on their arrival to the netherworld. For easy reference, a written inventory was placed next to the dead listing all of the items that had been left in the tomb, just in case they forgot anything! Each tomb was equipped with a funerary banner detailing how the mythological figures Fuxi and Nüwa created the world. In honour of these deities, a large statue of them was built outside of the tomb complex after it was rediscovered.

Some of the chambers feature stunning murals of people, animals, mountains, rivers, and other natural scenes. Thanks to the arid climate in the Turpan region, these relics, murals and mummies have been beautifully well-preserved. While DNA-testing has shown that many of the people within the tomb are Han Chinese, several of them are of Turkic, Mongolian, and even Caucasian descent. This suggests that, at some point in its history, Gaochang was a multi-ethnic city where all ethnicities enjoyed relative equality.

Nowadays, only three of the tombs are open to the public and, of these three, only one of them houses actual mummies. While these two mummies can be found encased in glass, the other two tombs yield stunningly well-preserved murals on their chamber walls. The tomb’s proximity to the Gaochang Ruins and the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Grottoes means that it makes for an interesting pit stop on a tour of the Turpan area. That is, so long as you’re not scared of mummies!

[1] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

Emin Minaret

The Emin Minaret is located just 2 kilometres (1 mi) east of Turpan’s city centre and, towering in at 44 metres (144 ft.) in height, it is the tallest minaret in China. Surrounded by willowy trees, dusty fields, and the ancient ruins of the city, it serves as a reminder of the country’s ancient past and the vital historical connections Turpan once had with Central Asia. Those who visit the minaret tend to have mixed feelings about it, with some describing it as a unique combination of architectural styles and others saying it looks like an industrial chimney! Yet this tower’s significance lies perhaps not in its outer beauty, but in the touching story behind its construction.

During the 1750s, a subgroup of Mongolian people known as the Dzungars occupied large parts of Xinjiang and decided to openly rebel against the Qing Empire (1644-1912). The Uyghurs, who had long been at odds with the Dzungars, joined forces with the imperial government and helped defeat them. This coalition was led by a Uyghur general named Emin Khoja, who was subsequently promoted to governor inheritable of Turpan as a reward for his allegiance.

He was an illustrious figure in Turpan’s history and was one of the few local Muslims to have made a successful pilgrimage to Mecca. On his death, his son Suleman succeeded him as governor and used his own money to build the Emin Minaret in honour of his father. Construction of the tower was completed in 1778 and its Chinese name, Sugong Ta, literally means “Governor Su’s Tower”. So if you thought you were a good son remember, Suleman built his father an entire tower!

Emin Minaret 02The minaret rests at the northeast corner of a rectangular mosque, which is in turn divided into an inner and outer hall. The outer hall is for use during the warmer months and is made of thin wooden pillars that support an exposed timber frame, making it large and spacious. The inner hall is predominantly used in winter and is thus fully enclosed, meaning it is far smaller.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of this minaret is the intermingling of features from different styles of architecture. Since the area surrounding Turpan was once the site of several major trading cities along the Silk Road, it also acted as a conduit between Central Asian and Chinese culture. The outer decoration of the Emin Minaret incorporates geometric patterns, which were typical of Middle Eastern Islamic architecture, but also includes floral patterns and waves, which were commonly used in Chinese architecture. The Uyghur people who built these structures had been influenced by these two cultures in equal measure, which is part of what makes their constructions so unique.

These craftsmen used locally sourced materials, so the minaret is predominantly made of wood and sundried mud-bricks. The tower visibly tapers as it rises upwards, with a diameter of just over 14 metres (46 ft.) at the base and approximately 3 metres (10 ft.) at the top. Long, narrow windows are placed at random intervals to provide light and ventilation, and there are no storeys within the structure, only a 72-step spiral staircase leading to a platform at the top. So if you thought your weekly session on the Stairmaster was bad, imagine climbing this tower every morning to perform the call to prayer!

The entrance is flanked by two steles[1]: one with an inscription in Chinese that explains the purpose of the minaret and its connection to the Qing Dynasty, and one in the Uyghur language that extols Emin Khoja and contains excerpts from the Quran. Visitors are no longer allowed to climb the minaret, but are welcome to explore the accompanying mosque.

[1] Stele: An upright stone slab or pillar that bears an inscription and usually marks a burial site, like a tombstone.

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Grape Valley

The scorching bedrock of the Flaming Mountains may not seem like the ideal place to grow anything, but the deep lush valleys along the mountain range act as oases for plants of all kinds. None are more famous than the illustrious Grape Valley, which has provided visitors with the finest grapes in the country for over 1,000 years. This fruity paradise has been made possible thanks to the long hours of sunlight that the region enjoys, coupled with an ingenious construction known as the karez irrigation system, which funnels melted snow down from the Tian Shan Mountains and uses it to water the grape vines. Needless to say, the only things wining in Grape Valley are the delicious grapes themselves!

The valley is located about 11 kilometres (7 mi) northeast of Turpan, on the west side of the Flaming Mountains, and takes up an area of approximately 2 square kilometres (0.8 sq. mi). Though it may be small, it boasts 13 different types of grape and produces over 300 tons of raisins every year. The sheer variety means you’ll find grapes as green as emeralds, as red as rubies, as small as pearls, and as large as buttons, so walking through the trellises represents a feast for both the tongue and the eyes!

Among the many kinds of grape, Manaizi and Wuhebai are the most prized. Manaizi literally means “mare’s nipple” as the long, pointed shape of these grapes resembles that of a teat, while wuhebai are white, seedless grapes that are reputed for their sweetness. Alongside the luscious grapes, several other fruits such as peaches, apricots, apples, and pomegranates are also grown in the valley. These sugary snacks are so delicious that, after a visit to Grape Valley, you’ll end up with more than just one sweet tooth!

Though the focus of the valley is primarily on fruit production, it has been opened to the public and is a pleasant diversion from the otherwise arid landscape of Xinjiang. There you can enjoy a peaceful stroll through the orchards, take a look at the drying rooms where the sweetest raisins are produced, purchase a few of the locally made jams and wines, or admire one of the daily performances of traditional dance by the Uyghur people. This cosy enclave of shops, restaurants, gardens, and hotels surrounded by fragrant fruit trees is a paradise that we’re sure you’ll be happy to get lost in!

 

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Kashgar

The vibrant oasis city of Kashgar rests at China’s westernmost point and is located near the border with Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It lies on a fertile stretch of land at the base of the Pamir Mountains, towards the western end of the Tarim Basin. Its population of just 500,000 people is made up predominantly of the Uyghur ethnic minority, whose culture largely dominates the city. So be prepared for bustling markets, colourful silks, and noisy livestock ambling through the streets!

The city’s location means the climate in the area is extremely arid. Average temperatures range from a mild −6 °C (21 °F) in January to a sweltering 26 °C (79 °F) in July, with an average precipitation of just 77 millimetres (3 in) per year. To put that into perspective, good old foggy London receives about 594 millimetres (23 in) of rainfall per year, over seven times that of Kashgar. So be sure to buy plenty of bottled water and forgo packing your umbrella!

It was once a major trade hub along the Silk Road, serving as the meeting point where its northern and southern branches finally met. The earliest mention of the city dates back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), when an imperial envoy travelled along the Northern Silk Road in order to explore the unknown lands to the west. The Chinese first took control of the area from the Yuezhi people in the 2nd century BC, but the Yuezhi swiftly reoccupied the area during the 1st century BC. This short-lived conquest would be characteristic of the region, as it would change hands many times!

The Chinese weren’t able to recover the territory until the late 7th and early 8th century, during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), but soon lost it once again in 752. Talk about unlucky! From then on, it was successfully occupied by the Turks in the 10th century, the Uyghurs in the 11th century, the Kara Khitans in the 12th century, and finally the Mongols in 1219. Under these rulers, trade between China and Central Asia flourished as it never had done before.

Unfortunately the city suffered greatly throughout the 14th century due to numerous wars and wasn’t reoccupied until 1755, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Yet peace wouldn’t grace Kashgar for long, as it was soon the centre for two Muslim rebellions. This social and political unrest lasted until 1943, when the city was finally restored to the Chinese government’s control.

The old part of the city has long been revered as one of the most well-preserved examples of a traditional Muslim city. Its characteristic mud-brick houses, though slightly dilapidated, still make for a stunning panorama when viewed from above. Gazing out over this ancient city, with the sun beating down on you and the Silk Road before you, one could even fancy themselves as a sort of modern-day Lawrence of Arabia!

Nowadays the city’s greatest draw is its lively Sunday market, which attracts thousands of merchants and tourists each week. Though the livestock market only functions on Sundays, the ordinary market continues throughout the week and is the ideal place to pick up a few locally made handicrafts, such as carpets, wooden jewellery boxes, and copper teapots. On market-day the city is alive with the sound of merchants from across China and Central Asia, just as it once was thousands of years ago. There are currently 20 large-scale bazaars operating in Kashgar, of which the largest is the one located near the East Gate. From the rich fragrance of meaty kebabs to the soft touch of hand-woven silk, the market is a real awakening of the senses.

Nestled within the heart of the city, Id Kah Mosque is the largest mosque in China and was originally built in 1442, although it has undergone major expansions and restorations since then. It’s a beautiful example of traditional Uyghur-style architecture and its religious significance only adds to its prestige. Yet it is tragically dwarfed in importance by the Tomb of Afaq Khoja just 5 kilometres (3 mi) northeast of the city centre, which is widely considered the holiest Muslim site in Xinjiang.

The tomb was built in 1640 and contains the remains of the religious and political leader Afaq Khoja, along with those of five generations of his family. He is regarded by several Muslim communities as a great Saint or Auliya. However, the greatest draw for many domestic tourists is the tomb of Xiang Fei, which rests within the complex. She was the only Uyghur woman to be taken as a concubine by a Chinese emperor and is occasionally referred to as the “Fragrant Concubine”, as it was rumoured she had a naturally enchanting aroma.

About 191 kilometres (120 mi) outside of the city, the spectacular Karakuri Lake stretches out at the foot of Mount Muztagata and marks a refreshing change from the typically barren landscape of Xinjiang. It looks like a crystal clear mirror, reflecting the surrounding grasslands, snow-covered mountains, and azure sky in its watery expanse.

Ürümqi

Urumqi03

If you think Ürümqi doesn’t look like a particularly Chinese name, you’d be right! It derives from the Oirat words for “beautiful pasture” and was so-named because, before Xinjiang came under national control, it belonged to the Dzungar Khanate, a rival kingdom ruled by a Mongol subgroup known as the Oirats. As the capital of Xinjiang, it is only befitting that Ürümqi should have an Oirat name. Located on a fertile patch of land along the northern slope of the Tian Shan Mountains, it features in the Guinness Book of World Records as the most inland city in the world and is over 2,500 kilometres (1,600 mi) away from the nearest coastline. So, if you’re taking a trip to Ürümqi, you may want to forgo packing the beach gear!

Although the Han ethnic group still represent the majority in the city, a large portion of its 3-million-strong population are religiously Muslim and so it boasts over 200 mosques. Its substantial constituency of Uyghur people means it has largely remained a culturally Uyghur city and the Turkic Uyghur language is the most widely spoken. Other prevalent ethnic minorities include the Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Mongol, Hui, and Manchu people. With all these cultures and languages mingling together, it’s no wonder Ürümqi is regarded as Xinjiang’s melting pot!

ÜrümqiIt was once one of the many trade hubs along the Silk Road, but its importance paled in comparison to the city of Turpan just 200 kilometres (120 mi) to its southeast. The area around the city first came under imperial control during the 7th and 8th centuries, but was abandoned by the Tang Dynasty (618-907) in the 750s. It wouldn’t be fully recovered until the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), when the imperial court established military colonies in the area and founded the city of Dihua in 1763. This city, which would eventually become modern-day Ürümqi, grew rapidly into one of the most important trading centres in Central Asia. After so many years spent in the shadow of its big brothers Turpan and Kashgar, the city was finally ready to shine!

Nowadays one of its crowning jewels is the Erdaoqiao or Grand Bazaar, a traditional Muslim market area. It’s the ideal place to sample some traditional Uyghur delicacies, browse through the stunning locally-made handicrafts, and perhaps pick up a few souvenirs.

The Hong Shan or Red Mountain is the symbol of the city and is located in Hongshan Park. It is named for the reddish-brown colour of its rocks and, though it’s more of a hill than a mountain, visitors still hike to the top regularly to enjoy the panoramic view of the urban sprawl below. The Buddhist temple and pagoda only add to the park’s aesthetic with a touch of manmade beauty.

As the cultural centre of Xinjiang, the city simply wouldn’t be complete without a few museums! The Xinjiang Regional Museum hosts a myriad of cultural relics, including pottery, weapons, terracotta figures, and even some mummies that date back to sometime between 2,000 BC and 400 AD! The Xinjiang Silk Road Museum is full of fascinating exhibitions about the history of the Silk Road and is fittingly located right next to the Grand Bazaar. What better way to learn about China’s ancient trading past than with the sounds of the bustling market in the background?

Urumqi01When it comes to food, you’re never too far away from a freshly baked naan, smoulderingly spicy kebab, or steaming bowl of pilaf rice! Xinjiang is renowned throughout China for its delicious cuisine, with punchy flavours reminiscent of its Central Asian cousins.

Nature lovers need only venture a short way out of Ürümqi to find some of the most exquisite scenery in Xinjiang. Just 70 kilometres (40 mi) to the south, a grassy mountain area known as South Pasture stretches as far as the eye can see. Its home to the Kazakh ethnic minority, who have continued to herd sheep, cattle, and horses on these verdant grasslands as their ancestors once did centuries ago. Visitors can even stay overnight in yurts and sample some of the spicy local cuisine. About 110 kilometres (70 mi) to city’s east, the Tian or Heavenly Lake fills one of the craters high on the Bogda Mountains and welcomes visitors to enjoy its shimmering sapphire waters, a refreshing change from the characteristic deserts of the region.

 

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