Bai Ethnic Minority

Bai Ethnic Minority

The Bai people hold the colour white in high esteem and the term “Baizu” (白族) actually translates to mean “white people”. That being said, the Bai aren’t racist! They just have a preference for white clothes. The majority of their nearly 2-million-strong population can be found in Yunnan province, with smaller constituencies in Guizhou, Sichuan, and Hunan. They can be further separated into three ethnic subgroups; the Minjia, who represent 95% of the total population; the Nama, who account for just 3.5%; and the Lemo, who make up the last 1.5%. While the Minjia people predominantly live in the region near Erhai Lake, the Nama people can be found near the Lancang River, and the Lemo people inhabit areas near the Nujiang River.

The complexity of their culture is matched only by that of their history! Archaeologists have found evidence in the Erhai region that suggests it was inhabited as early as the Neolithic Era (c. 10,200-2,000 BC). Their findings indicate that these ancient people had already invented stone tools and engaged in farming, livestock rearing, fishing, and hunting. Other evidence, such as bronze knives and swords, imply that they began using metal tools approximately 2,000 years ago. Yet no one, not even the Bai people themselves, is absolutely sure whether these early settlers are their ancestors!

During the Qin (221-206 BC) and Han (206 BC–220 AD) dynasties, it is believed that locals in the Erhai area developed close ties with the Han ethnic group. In 109 BC, the imperial government sent large numbers of Han people there, who brought with them advanced techniques and tools. The Bai language, which borrows many words from Chinese, also supports the theory that they interacted with the Han people from an early stage. However, it wasn’t until the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that the Bai’s history began to be formally documented. Supported by the Tang Court, a group of Bai and Yi aristocrats unified the ethnic groups in the Erhai area and established the Nanzhao Kingdom (738-902), which was ruled by a man known as Piluoge.

Bai Ethnic Minority02Throughout its reign this kingdom was the most powerful political entity in southern China and successfully established alliances with both the Chinese and Tibetans. It was not only an important trade centre, linking China to commercial routes in Southeast Asia, but was also a religious centre where Buddhism flourished. At one point, this burgeoning empire was so large that it controlled parts of Vietnam, Burma, and Laos! However it oppressed many of the local ethnic groups, plundered their resources, and forced numerous people into slavery. The kingdom was overthrown with such violence that it took 35 years of chaos and revolt before the region finally recovered and Duan Siping was able to establish the Dali Kingdom (937-1253).

This kingdom was predominantly made up of Bai people and retained many of the political, cultural, and religious characteristics of its predecessor, but abolished exorbitant taxes and treated its citizens far more fairly. Since it was a valued commercial partner of the Song Dynasty (960-1279), its people enjoyed a period of peace and productivity. Unfortunately this tranquillity was not to last, as the Mongols annexed the Dali Kingdom during their eventual establishment of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and demoted the Duan royal family from leaders to Tusi[1]. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Duan were removed and replaced with imperial officials.

This is where their history begins to get rather hazy, as it seems many Bai people decided to take matters into their own hands! In Bai culture, they have a complex clan system that has depended upon the use and systemisation of surnames since the Nanzhao Kingdom. This means that most clans will have a family temple where they keep extensive lineage records detailing their ancestors’ histories and accomplishments. Before the 13th century, most of these family records would place emphasis on the fact that their ancestors were officials for the Nanzhao or Dali Kingdoms.

However, during the Ming Dynasty many of these records were changed to “prove” that their ancestors had originated from Nanjing and were related to the Han ethnic group. Many scholars believe that this was designed to curry favour with the ruling Han imperials and help Bai aristocrats gain official positions. The Bai people thus foster a belief in dual ancestral origins; on the one hand, they believe that their forefathers were high-ranking officials in the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms; on the other hand, they allege that their ancestors were Han people who came from Nanjing as part of the Ming army. In short, don’t ask a Bai person about their family history unless you have a lot of time on your hands!

Historically the Bai are an industrious and well-educated people, having made great advances in meteorology, astronomy, architecture, medical science, literature, and art. Perhaps their most famous achievements are the magnificent Three Pagodas, which stand just outside Dali Ancient Town.

Like many ethnic minorities, the Bai people have great reverence for their elders. Traditionally youths should greet elders warmly and offer them their seat, a cup of tea, and a cigarette. It’s considered incredibly disrespectful to cross your legs or use foul language in front of an elderly person. In a Bai household, the first cup of morning tea is always offered to the oldest relative and during meals they will always sit at the head of the table and start eating first.

Many of these elders will be heads of their family temple. The Bai predominantly follow a surname-based clan system and so family temples are very common, particularly in the Erhai region. In Xizhou alone, there are temples belonging to the Yang, Yin, Dong, Zhang, and Yue families. When an elderly member of the family is appointed as head of the temple, they have the power to resolve disputes and make important decisions within the family. It is their responsibility to discipline and educate younger relatives, as well as oversee affairs such as the buying and selling of land.

The Bai people are also extremely superstitious and adhere to a number of taboos. Fireplaces are considered sacred and so it is forbidden to spit on or step over them; people who are mourning a death are not allowed to enter the homes of others; on New Year’s Eve, people should return anything they have borrowed and retrieve any items they have lent out, otherwise they will have bad luck and a poor harvest in the coming year; and on New Year’s Day, people must not use a knife, carry water into their home, or sweep the floor.

[1] Tusi: Chieftains or tribal leaders who were permitted to rule over a certain region and were acknowledged as imperial officials but who ultimately answered to the Emperor.

Read more about Bai Ethnic Minority:

Bai Spirituality       Architecture       Traditional Dress       Festivals       Marriage Customs       Agriculture and Craftwork       Three Courses of Tea

Lijiang Old Town

Where the Jade River divides into three tributaries and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looms over the Black Dragon Pool, there you’ll find Lijiang Old Town. The old town, also known as Dayan Ancient District, is one of the two districts that make up Lijiang City, the other being the more modern part. As early as 1997, UNESCO recognised the historical importance of this city and, along with Shuhe Town and Baisha Village, made it into a World Heritage Site. These three ancient places, all within 15 kilometres of one another, are found in Lijiang County and together form what is left of the region’s ancient past.

The old town itself is most notable for its unusual architecture and canal system. The majority of its buildings date back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) dynasties and seamlessly combine elements of styles from the Han, Bai, Tibetan and Naxi ethnic groups. The houses tend to be made of timbre, with vivid carvings of people and animals on the doors and windows. The tributaries of the Jade River have been channelled into the old town via canals and waterways that lead it to basins or ponds, providing the townspeople with fresh running water. This ingenious water system has led to the old town being likened to Venice. Typically the ponds are divided into sets of three; one for drinking, one for cleaning vegetables and fruit, and one for washing clothes. Just don’t get them mixed up, or you’ll end up with a bunch of apples that smell like socks!

It is believed the area was occupied as early as the Warring State Period (c. 476-221 B.C.), but the city itself wasn’t established until the late Song Dynasty (960-1279), when a Naxi family known as the Mu clan began building what we now know as Lijiang. They ruled for more than 500 years but were forced to submit to the Mongolians when the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) was established. However, they were allowed to continue their reign as “Tusi” or chieftains throughout the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.

Under their guidance, thereafter Lijiang flourished as one of the major trade hubs along the Tea-Horse Road that ran between Yunnan and Tibet. Bizarrely enough, the reason why Lijiang Old Town has no city wall is because when the character for the Mu family name (木) is surrounded by the character “wei” (囗) it makes the character “kun” (困), which means “to be trapped”, “beset” or “surrounded”. The family felt this was an omen, warning them that if they built city walls then the city would certainly be besieged. If you want to learn more about the family, the massive Mu Family Compound is open to tourists and provides great insight into the history of the city.

Nowadays the old town is hugely popular with tourists and represents a stunning labyrinth of winding flagstone streets, bubbling canals and scenic parks. The Yuquan Park is a particular favourite with visitors and is home to both Elephant Hill and Black Dragon Pool. There are a number of temples in the park and from the central bridge of Black Dragon Pool you’ll be treated to the view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain that has become iconic throughout Yunnan.

If you fancy an afternoon hike, the Lion Hill overlooks the old town and at its summit you’ll find the wonderful Wangu Pavilion. This wooden building stands at 33 metres (108 ft.), boasts 10,000 dragon carvings, and is considered a masterpiece of Qing Dynasty architecture. From the summit, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of both the city and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Near to Lion Hill, the Dongba Cultural Museum is the ideal place to learn more about the local Naxi culture and meet some of the last remaining people who can write Dongba script, the only known hieroglyphic writing system still in existence. Evidently the scenery around Lijiang was so beautiful that the locals could not find words to describe it, and so continued to use pictures instead!

There are plenty of shops in old town where you can pick up a few souvenirs, such as burned wood carvings, yak horn combs, traditional Naxi clothing, art and writing samples of Dongba script, and Naxi handmade embroidery. With a plethora of Naxi, Tibetan and Sichuan style restaurants, it’s also the perfect place to sample a few of the local delicacies, including yak milk tea, yak milk yoghurt, yak steak, and the wickedly delicious Naxi fried white cheese. As the Naxi people know, the only thing better than cheese is deep fried cheese, and it’s covered in sugar! There are a number of cafés scattered throughout the town that serve Yunnan coffee and even a handful of Western-style restaurants and bars.

At night, there are plenty of shows on offer to keep any visitor entertained. You can either take a trip to the Naxi Concert Hall and enjoy the sultry sounds of Chinese classical music played by the Naxi Orchestra, or make your way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Park and marvel at a performance of “Impression Lijiang”, which was designed by Zhang Yimou, the celebrated director of Hero and House of Flying Daggers.

The old town boasts a variety of hotels and hostels that vary in quality. Some of the traditional houses have even been converted into boutique hotels by local families. They are the perfect place to immerse yourself in Chinese history without sacrificing any of your creature comforts!

Erhai Lake

On a sunny day, the snow-capped Cangshan Mountains are reflected in the deep waters of the Erhai Lake, and the seeming inseparability of these two natural wonders gave rise to the local saying “silver Cangshan and jade Erhai”. The name “Erhai” literally means the “Er Sea” and it’s referred to as a “sea” because it covers an area of 250 square kilometres, making it 17 times the size of Lake Windermere, England’s largest natural lake! In fact, the lake is so large that it sports a number of islands, which in turn support small fishing villages and temples.

From the peaks of Cangshan, Erhai Lake looks like a ribbon winding around the coast. It is characterised by its narrowness, being 41 kilometres long but only 3 to 9 kilometres wide. Beneath its murky depths, the lake is home to a diverse community of fish, including 3 species of carp that can only be found in Erhai. This makes the lake an ideal place to fish and for many years it has remained an important food source for the local Bai ethnic minority. If you travel to Erhai, you’ll be treated to a demonstration of the Bai people’s traditional technique of fishing, where they use trained cormorants to catch the fish and return them to the fishermen.

There are plenty of places by the lakeside where you can rent a small boat and venture out onto the waters. You can visit some of the nearby islands, including Jinsuo or “Golden Shuttle” Island, Nanzhao Folklore Island and Xiaoputuo Island, and marvel at a few of the Buddhist temples there. The most magnificent of these temples is considered to be the one on Xiaoputuo Island, which was built during the 15th century. Though it is small, it perfectly exhibits the ancient architectural-style of a typical Buddhist temple and looks particularly beautiful reflected in the lake. Just don’t expect to find any tiny monks inside!

On the lakeside, the stunning Butterfly Spring and charming Erhai Lake Park make for a wonderful day out. The park rests at the base of Tuanshan Peak on the Cangshan Mountains and boasts an arboretum, a public swimming pool, a zoo and a path to an observation deck further up the mountain. In spring, the park is awash with blossoms as the camellias, azaleas, primrose, and numerous exotic trees bloom. Similarly, the Butterfly Spring is a flurry of lively, colourful butterflies, all emerging from their cocoons and gracefully gliding through the air.

Alongside the park, a number of teahouses and restaurants run by members of the Bai ethnic minority provide visitors with a tantalising taste of traditional Bai cuisine. You can even take part in the Three Teas Ceremony whilst casually admiring the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The Three Pagodas, Dali Ancient Town and the Bai village of Xizhou are all within cycling distance of the lake, making it a perfect resting spot on your tour of the region.

Chuxiong

From the Clay Forests of Yuanmou County to the dinosaur bones of Lufeng, Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture is steeped in a history that stretches back millions of years. The fossilised remains of the Yuanmou Man, an ape-like human ancestor that lived over 1.7 million years ago, were discovered here in 1965 and evidence of human activity predating the Qin Dynasty (221-206 B.C.) has been found throughout the prefecture. Thus it comes as no surprise that many Chinese people regard Chuxiong as the cradle of mankind. The prefectural capital, aptly named Chuxiong City, is a central hub that acts as the midway point between Yunnan’s three most popular tourist cities; Kunming, Lijiang, and Dali. Tragically this often means Chuxiong gets overlooked by foreign tourists so if you happen to be passing through, take a couple of days to explore this strange and wonderful place. After all, you may come across your great-great-great-great-great-grandfather!

The prefecture was so named because, of its 2.5 million inhabitants, over 26% of them are from the Yi ethnic minority. Up until the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Yi people were in the vast majority throughout Chuxiong but were swiftly overcome by the ethnic Han people when they migrated from Central China to Yunnan. Nowadays the prefecture is the ideal place to learn about Yi culture and visit traditional Yi villages. In the northwestern district of Chuxiong City, there is even a tourist attraction known as the Ancient City of the Yi People, which is not actually an ancient city but provides tourists with the opportunity to watch Yi residents perform traditional dances and purchase a few locally made handicrafts.

The city itself is home to a plethora of local parks where visitors can relax and enjoy a peaceful day out. Futa Park or “Park of Good Fortune” is home to the looming Futa Pagoda, a nine-storey behemoth that towers over the city at nearly 60 metres (197 ft.) in height. A harrowing climb to the top rewards any visitor with a breath-taking panoramic view of the city and outside the pagoda you’ll find a large statue of the Laughing Buddha, whose belly button has been worn smooth thanks to visitors rubbing his pendulous stomach. Perhaps he’s laughing because he’s ticklish!

Taiyangli Park, also known as the Ten Month Calendar Garden, is possibly the most famous park in the city as it was designed around the Yi people’s ten month calendar and features beautifully carved statues from the Yi Zodiac. Their version of the zodiac includes several animals that are absent from the traditional Chinese zodiac, such as the pangolin and the peacock, and several other bizarre decorations, such as concrete gourds that are large enough to stand in and what appears to be a graveyard for abandoned paddleboats, can be found littered throughout the park.

Outside of the city, the delightfully odd attractions appear to multiply! To the southwest you’ll find the magnificent Zixi Mountain, which has been considered a sacred Buddhist site since the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The Zixi Mountain Forest Park is an ideal place to go hiking, as Buddhist temples and ruins are scattered across the mountain. With its lush pine forests, 202 resident plant species and 107 animal species, the mountain’s rich biodiversity makes it a hotspot for nature tourists.

In Yuanmou County, you’ll find the three clay forests, known as Hutiaotan, Banguo and Xinhua, where extensive water erosion has caused rocks to form unusual natural landforms over centuries. These landforms look like animals, trees and plants frozen still in time, trapped inside the immovable rock. There’s even one formation that supposedly looks like a Catholic Church; but don’t show up in your Sunday best as you’ll be bitterly disappointed to find they don’t celebrate Mass! In Lufeng County, the complete skeletons of four dinosaurs are on display in Lufeng Dinosaur Museum and the numerous exhibitions provide visitors with an insight into earth’s ancient past.

We recommend visiting Chuxiong in late summer, as the Yi Torch Festival takes place in August every year and is one of the major highlights of the Yi calendar. The festival features a stunning torch parade, singing, dancing, and the playing of traditional instruments well into the night. It’s a lively display that is not to be missed; just don’t get too carried away with your dancing or you may fall into the bonfire!

Kunming

A city of eternal spring, a gateway to the Silk Road (the Ancient Tea-Horse Road), a Chinese military centre; in its 2,400-year long history Yunnan’s provincial capital has been many things. Thanks to its proximity to the Tropic of Cancer and the protection from the vast Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, its temperate weather year-round has earned it the title of Spring City. It was once, and still is, the trade hub between China and many of the Southeast Asian countries. And nowadays its comfortable climate, numerous attractions, and ethnically diverse population have transformed Kunming into a tourist paradise, with approximately 800,000 foreign tourists visiting the city each year.

The city of Kunming was first founded in 765 A.D., but ancient settlements around nearby Lake Dianchi date all the way back to 279 B.C. In 1276, Mongol rulers named the area Kunming County and made it the capital of Yunnan. Many scholars believe Kunming was once the ancient city of Yachi Fu or “Duck Pond Town”, which was described by Marco Polo as a place where people ate raw meat and used cowries (snail shells) as currency. Today Kunming is as fascinating as Marco Polo found it all those years ago, although we recommend you don’t try to pay for your hotel room in snail shells!

The city is now a mismatch of modern commercial districts, residential districts, preserved districts of the ancient city, and university campuses. Every day the city comes to life, with students rushing to their classes, retirees practising Tai Chi in the park, backpackers embarking on their next adventure, and ethnic minority groups performing age-old rituals. The city has a population of about 6.5 million people, meaning that the streets are always crowded, lively and full of interesting characters.

No matter where you go in Kunming, you’re bound to stumble upon some new attraction. The city is home to many charming parks, of which Cuihu Park and Daguan Park are considered the most popular. If you fancy a relaxing day out then Cuihu Park, with its lotus covered pools, flocks of tranquil black-headed gulls, and hauntingly beautiful willow trees, is the place for you. Alternatively, if you like to move at a faster pace, then Daguan Park’s strange mixture of raucous fun fairs and boisterous youths, set directly alongside the majestic 300-year-old Daguan Pavilion, makes for an intriguing world of polar opposites. There’s even a zoo in Kunming, where visitors can enjoy the tranquil peacock garden, butterfly enclosure, aviary, aquarium, and the “sea of flowers” that engulfs the zoo every spring and summer.

At some stage in your life you must have surely asked yourself the all-important question; where is the largest copper temple in China? Well there’s no need to lose any more sleep over it because it’s right here in Kunming! In the northern suburbs of the city, you’ll find the Golden Temple, which was constructed in 1602 from a whopping 200 tonnes of copper. Everything, including the roof-tiles and doors, is made of copper and its shimmering appearance is what earned it its name. That being said, a visit to the temple may just leave you asking more questions, like why would you build a temple out of copper? We’re not quite sure why either, but it certainly looks magnificent!

However, if you’re desperate to learn about the history of the temple and the city itself, Kunming boasts 6 different museums that will cater to all of your academic needs. There’s the Yunnan Provincial Museum, the Kunming City Museum, the Kunming Natural History Museum, and the Yunnan Ethnology Museum, to name but a few. The Yunnan University Museum of Anthropology even has a rare exhibit featuring traditional wooden-body armour from the Yi ethnic minority. Visiting any of these museums is the perfect way to see a few of Yunnan’s hidden treasures and take a few interesting stories back with you. Who needs a souvenir when you can recite the Latin names of Yunnan’s 17,000 species of plant?

Kunming is a treasure trove of tourist attractions, from the Tanhua Temple, with its 300-year-old orchid cacti, to the alien landscape of the Stone Forest. The city boasts a wide variety of both Western and Chinese-style restaurants, cafés, and bars, which together make for a vibrant nightlife. Hotels and hostels of varying quality are scattered throughout the city, catering to a myriad of tourists from different backgrounds. So, if you’re tired of traveling to the same boring destinations, we’re sure a trip to the Spring City will put the spring back in your step!

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Legend has it that, long ago, a tiger was running from a hunter when he was cornered on the river banks. With the rapids thundering behind him and the gorge rising up on all sides, he had nowhere to go. Suddenly, as the hunter approached, the tiger leapt from the bank to a rock in the centre of the rushing water, and then jumped to safety on the opposite bank. Supposedly the tiger cleared 25 metres (82 ft.) in order to escape the hunter, a feat unmatched by any modern tiger, and since then it has been known as Tiger Leaping Gorge.

The gorge is made up of a canyon with the Jinsha River running through it. It can be found about 60 kilometres (37 mi) north of Lijiang City and, since the Jinsha River makes up the upper reaches of the magnificent Yangtze River, it is part of the Three Parallel Rivers Site. At its maximum depth, there is approximately 3,790 metres (12,434 ft.) from river to mountain peak, making Tiger Leaping Gorge one of the deepest river canyons in the world.

It marks the point where the river passes between the colossal Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain. At its base, the gorge stretches 15 kilometres in length and is flanked on one side by a series of rapids and on the other by 2,000 metre-high cliffs. With that in mind, I’m sure we can all appreciate how terrifying it must have been to leap over!

Due to its ecological importance, the area itself is now protected. Several different ecological and climate zones meet in the region, which has resulted in an unusually large number of plant and animal species thriving here. Many rare plants and animals can be found in the gorge, making wildlife preservation of paramount importance. If only that had been the case years ago, and then perhaps it would be called Tiger Resting Gorge instead!

It is now a popular tourist location for both Chinese and foreign tourists who want to enjoy a challenging hike and admire the magnificent scenery. There are a number of hiking trails you can take, but most of them begin near the Upper Gorge in the town of Qiaotou, also known as Tiger Leaping Gorge Town, and finish in the town of Daju near the Lower Gorge. The Lower Trail is the shortest, easiest and most popular with Chinese tourists. It is made up of a road that was recently built along the south side of the river, which you can either hike or take a tour bus along. This trail offers wonderful views of the foaming waters as they rush through the gorge and will take you past the Tiger Leaping Rock, making it the ideal option if you don’t feel up to the more strenuous hikes.

The High Trail can only be hiked and provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a little solitude, revelling in the true majesty of the gorge. Most of the trail is at an elevation of about 2,700 metres (8,800 ft.) and is mostly one kilometre above the river, meaning you can still hear the water as it thunders below you. The trail is approximately 22 kilometres (14 mi) long and features a number of micro-ecosystems, waterfalls and verdant forests along the way. Many locals from the Naxi ethnic minority live in nearby villages and use this trail daily, meaning you can connect with some of the ethnic culture whilst hiking. Be forewarned, the Naxi people are a matriarchal culture and their women are notoriously bossy, so don’t cross one or you might end up leaping across the gorge yourself!

If you fancy a real challenge, you can enhance your hiking experience by taking the optional trails to Walnut Grove and the Bamboo Forest. The High Trail descends to meet the Low Trail at Tiger Leaping Rock, which is the point along the river where the tiger supposedly leapt over.

Depending on your speed, the trail should take you between one and a half days to three days. We recommend you take a leisurely pace, as this affords the opportunity to stop and marvel at the scenery on your way. There are plenty of guesthouses and hotels littered throughout the trail that provide hikers with supplies, meals and a place to stay.

The trails are all considered impassable during the rainy season, which is from June to September. Heavy rain increases the risk of landslides and people have died there before during adverse weather conditions. We strongly recommend that you avoid visiting during this season, as it is not worth the risk. The best times to hike the gorge are October, November and May, as the weather is temperate but not too wet.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Long before recorded time, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Haba Snow Mountain were brothers who made a living panning the Jinsha or “Golden Sands” River. They lived a happy life, until one day an evil fiend attacked them and took over the river. But the brave brothers did not flinch. They took up arms and fought the fiend with all their might. Haba, the first brother, tragically died in the fight, but Jade Dragon was able to drive away the fiend using his 13 swords. Thereafter, Jade Dragon guarded the local villages and carried his 13 swords with him day and night. For their heroic deeds, the immortals transformed the two brothers into two snow-capped mountains, and Jade Dragon’s 13 swords became the 13 peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The people of the Naxi ethnic minority still revere the mountains as holy places and honour the memories of these two heroes to this day.

Each of the 13 peaks has an altitude of at least 4,000 metres (13,123 ft.) and at different altitudes up the peak you’ll find different temperature zones. This makes the mountain range a safe haven for rare animals and plants, with one fourth of all plant species in China being found on the mountain, and 20 primeval forests sheltering 400 types of trees and 30 species of animals that are under national protection. Its highest peak, known as Shanzidou, has an elevation of over 5,500 metres (18,300 ft.) and its dangerously high avalanche risk means it has only been climbed once. So, unless you want to get covered in a dragon’s length of snow, we recommend taking the cable cars!

Whether its holidaymaking, mountaineering, skiing, or hiking, this small mountain range caters to a variety of tourists. It’s only 15 kilometres south of Lijiang Ancient Town and the view from Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is considered one of the most magnificent in Yunnan. It is said that, from a distance, the fog-enlaced mountains look like a jade dragon lying in the clouds. This may be where the mountain range gets its name, but the epic Naxi tale of Jade Dragon and his 13 swords sounds far more enchanting, doesn’t it?

On the eastern side of the mountains, you’ll find Tiger Leaping Gorge, which offers a plethora of hiking trails that should not be missed. On the western side, there are still more hiking opportunities, with cable cars leading to Glacier’s Park, Dry Sea Meadow, Yak Meadow and Spruce Meadow. At an elevation of about 4,500 metres (14,757 ft.), the tram building at Glacier’s Park is one of the highest in the world and provides visitors with access to a glacier and a path that leads to the summit of a high peak, reaching altitudes of about 4,600 metres (15,350 ft.). For those of you who aren’t used to such dizzying heights, there are vendors on hand selling tanks of oxygen. The view from the peak is truly spectacular and, along the way, the snow is ripe for plentiful snowball fights!

The Dry Sea Meadow and Yak Meadow are both at an altitude of around 3,500 metres (about 12,000 ft.) and can be accessed by the same cable car. The Dry Sea Meadow was once a lake that has since dried up, while the Yak Meadow is grassy area where farmers graze their yaks. Both areas are extremely peaceful, as they draw few crowds, and there’s even a beautiful temple at Yak Meadow where visitors can rest and admire the simple but majestic yaks. Similarly, a third tram goes to Spruce Meadow, which is only at an elevation of about 3,200 metres (10,500 ft.) and is equally as tranquil.

On the south side of the mountain range, there is a small village known as Jade Water Village. Since it is only 8 kilometres north of Lijiang Ancient Town, its very accessible and provides still more sightseeing opportunities. From the village, you can either hike up the mountains or take a guided horse riding tour through the designated park areas. Jade Water Village and other small Naxi villages around the mountains also offer the chance to sample Naxi delicacies such as yak milk tea and yak steak. Just don’t take any of these tasty snacks up to Yak Meadow, or you might offend someone!

The Golden Temple

Atop the delightfully named Mingfeng or “Singing Phoenix” Hill in Kunming’s Jindian Park sits the majestic Golden Temple. It is the most famous Taoist temple in China not only because of its tranquil setting and impressive size, but predominantly because it is the largest bronze temple in China. From the doors to the roof tiles, everything in the temple has been made entirely out of bronze! Its official name is Taihe Palace or the Hall of Supreme Harmony, but its glittering appearance has earned it the names Tongwa or “Bronze Tile” Temple and the Golden Temple. Made from a whopping 250 tonnes of bronze, the Golden Temple is an architectural wonder unmatched throughout China.

The history of the Golden Temple stretches all the way back to the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), during the reign of the Wanli Emperor (1572-1620), when it was initially built almost by accident. The imperial government had ordered Yunnan province to send large quantities of bronze ore from its mines in Dongchuan to Central China so that it could be used to make coins. However, on the long and arduous path to the mint, the roads were made impassable due to the on-going wars at the time, so the cargo was trapped in Kunming.

The governor of Yunnan, Chen Yongbing, was a devout Taoist and ordered that the bronze ore be used to build a replica of the Golden Temple in the Wudang Mountains of Hubei province. The replica was promptly built but bizarrely, in 1637, Yongbing’s temple was moved for political reasons to the Jizu Mountains of western Yunnan, leaving behind only the marble base. If you think your workout at the gym is hard, imagine moving a 250-tonne solid bronze temple up a mountain!

It wasn’t until 1671, during the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), that Wu Sangui, the then governor of Yunnan, decided to build yet another replica of Yongbing’s Golden Temple on the old marble base that was left behind in Kunming. We have to believe that if a temple is so great it’s worth building three times, then it’s definitely worth a visit! Whilst the original temple in the Jizu Mountains sustained irreparable damage in the 1960s, the Golden Temple in Kunming stands tall to this day. It was damaged slightly during the Muslim rebellion in 1857, but since its restoration in 1890 it has remained largely unchanged. Its walls, columns, rafters, roof tiles, altars, statues, decorations and banners are all made from bronze, and have dazzled visitors with their beauty to this day.

Nowadays, if you want to visit the Golden Temple you must first scale the many marble steps of Mingfeng Hill and pass through a series of Heavenly Gates. The three Heavenly Gates that lead directly into the temple are considered the most beautiful, as they have been intricately decorated and painted. After your long and, hopefully, rather spiritual trial up the hill, you’ll come upon a miniature, medieval city wall raised on a platform. Near to this wall, the Lingxing Gate marks the entrance to the temple.

In the temple itself, you’ll find a number of fascinating artefacts relating to the history of the temple, including a double-edged sword with the Big Dipper engraved on it. This sword, which weighs more than 22 kilograms (44 pounds), is supposedly the legendary magical sword of the Taoist deity Zhen Wu, who is said to guard Mingfeng Hill. Alongside this colossal sword, Wu Sangui’s 12-kilogram (25 pound) broadsword seems markedly less impressive. Next to the temple, there’s a stunningly beautiful camellia tree that has signalled the approach of Spring every year for over 600 years. Every time this ancient tree blossoms, its burst of colour is no less magnificent.

Just behind the temple, you’ll find a three-storey high Bell Tower that was built in 1984. Although the tower itself is rather new, it is home to the “Great Bell of the Ming Yongle Era”, which is over 580 years old. This bell is nearly 4 metres (17 ft.) high and weighs a monumental 14 tonnes. It once hung in the Xuanhua Mansion and was used to announce the time, but was moved to the temple when the city of Kunming began expanding. We’re not 100% sure, but we’re pretty certain that every bell ringer unfortunate enough to work in the Xuanhua Mansion must have gone deaf rather fast.

In recent years, the temple has been expanded to include the Parrot Garden, Camellia Garden, and Orchid Garden. Its verdant hillsides and blooming orchards play host to a multitude of pine trees, evergreens, hardy cypresses, and other plants, all helping to earn it the nickname the “Fairyland of Mingfeng”. No matter what you find here, be it historical knowledge, spiritual enlightenment, inner peace, or just a very big bell, we’re sure you’ll enjoy your trip to the Golden Temple.

Dianchi Lake

With a nickname like the “Sparkling Pearl Embedded in the Highland”, you know that Dianchi Lake has a serious reputation to live up to. It is a freshwater fault lake nestled at the foot of the mountains just south of Kunming and stands at an impressive 1,886 metres (6,189 ft.) above sea level. It covers a total area of just under 300 square kilometres (115 sq. mi), making it nearly as large as the entire country of Malta and ranking it as the eighth largest lake in China. It stretches 39 kilometres (24 mi) from north to south and 13 kilometres (8 mi) from east to west, with an average depth of 4.4 metres (14 ft.). So, unless you’re a professional basketball player or an Olympic swimmer, we strongly recommend you stick to a boat when navigating this watery behemoth!

Its natural banks have been formed by mountains and four hills rise in each direction, giving the lake a truly picturesque appearance. There’s the Jinma or Golden Horse Hill in the east, the Biji or Jade Rooster Hill in the west, the Baihe or White Crane Hill in the south, and the Sheshan or Snake Hill in the north. The mystical names and ethereal quality of these hills give the lake the appearance of an otherworldly paradise, particularly when you catch sight of the stunning scenery reflected in its waters.

Unfortunately, pollution has rendered the lake water undrinkable and it is currently ranked at Grade V, the lowest water purification level, meaning it is unfit for agricultural or industrial use. Though this pollution has caused the lake’s fish population to wane, fishermen still ply their trade on these crystal clear waters in much the same way as their ancestors did over one hundred years ago and it is still possible to swim in designated parts of the lake.

The history of the lake is delicately intertwined with the history of Yunnan itself. Throughout the Yuan (1271-1368) and early Ming (1368-1644) dynasties, the alluvial plain at the north of the lake was extensively irrigated to provide farmland for locals. However, evidence suggests that the lake may have been settled by farmers as early as the 2nd century BC! It was once the capital of the Dian Kingdom (500-109 BC), an independent state that eventually became part of the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), and was also subsequently the centre of the Nanzhao (738-902) and Dali (937-1253) Kingdoms. With such a regal background, it’s no wonder people regard Dianchi as a pearl in the Yunnan countryside.

Along the lake, you’ll find a number of attractions that are sure to delight you. Daguan Park is bursting with beautiful rock gardens, elegant pavilions and sturdy bridges, with the Daguan Pavilion at its centre. The pavilion was built in 1828 and has one of the most famous Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) couplets engraved upon it. This couplet is 180 characters long and is thus one of the longest couplets in Chinese history, brimming with poetic grace and imbued with historical significance.

The White Fish Park on the west bank of the lake is so named for a small hill, which looks like a white fish opening its mouth. This park is characterised by its verdant gardens and is particularly beautiful during spring, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and the crisp white sails of fishing boats can be seen far off in the distance.

dianchi lake 04At Haigeng Bank, Dianchi’s south bank, visitors can walk among the slender willow trees gently billowing in the breeze and take advantage of the natural swimming pool that is set up there during summer. Nearby you’ll find the Yunnan Folk Customs Village, where tourists can learn more about the resident Bai, Yi, and Dai ethnic minorities. With all of these wonderful attractions on offer, Dianchi Lake isn’t just any lake; it’s practically a theme park!

Dali

The name Dali sounds almost mythical, like the heavenly Shangri-La or the legendary island of Avalon. Nestled beneath the verdant Cangshan Mountains in the west and bordering the crystal clear Erhai Lake in the east, you’ll find the name is befitting of this earthly paradise.

The city was once the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, which ruled large areas of Yunnan and northern Burma and parts of Sichuan and Guizhou. It is commonly believed that the Nanzhao rulers were the precursors of either the Yi or Bai ethnic minority. The kingdom was established in 738 A.D. and managed to hold on to its substantial empire for an impressive 160 years, until its collapse in 902. The kingdom’s prosperity was predominantly due to its control of the major trade routes between Central China and Southeast Asia, and thus Dali flourished as a trade hub. When the Nanzhao rulers converted to Buddhism, the city became instrumental in the dissemination of the religion across China.

After several decades of chaos following the fall of the Nanzhao Kingdom, the Kingdom of Dali was established by Duan Siping in 937. The ruling Duan clan are commonly seen as the ancestors of the Bai people. Dali remained the kingdom’s capital and retained its status as an important transportation centre, thanks to the kingdom’s close ties with the Tang Dynasty (618-907). It acted as one of the major transit points on the Silk Road and by the year 1000 it had been transformed into one of the 13 largest cities in the world. These ancient empires helped foster Dali’s growth and transformed it into the thriving city that we see today, but tragically they would meet a bitter and bloody end.

In 1253, the Mongols conquered the city and usurped the Dali Empire. They laid waste to the old city and destroyed the Palace of the Dali Kingdom. In the chaos, almost all records of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms were burned or destroyed, which is why so little is known about their histories. The Mongolians’ brutality forced many of the locals out of Yunnan, pushing the Bai ethnic minority as far as Hunan province. Dali subsequently became an important military outpost under the famous Mongolian leader Kublai Khan.

Thankfully, the Mongolians were defeated when the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) was established. The Hongwu Emperor took it upon himself to rebuild the ancient city in the 1400s and nowadays most of what you see in Dali Ancient Town was part of this rebuild. These old Ming-style buildings have been preserved for hundreds of years and have since been adapted into hotels, antique stores, and teahouses. It is strange to think that this tranquil place was founded on such harrowing violence.

The climate is temperate throughout the year, meaning it benefits from moderate summers and mild winters. The only drawback is the autumns and winters can be a little windy, so switch out that emergency umbrella for a raincoat or you may end up looking like Mary Poppins! The city is separated into two districts; the “new city” in the south, known as Xiaguan, and the “old city” in the north, known as Gucheng or Dali Ancient Town. In an effort to preserve the old city, the government has banned the construction of new buildings there and barred anyone from driving motor vehicles through its streets. It is a purely pedestrianized district, so be prepared for long walks.

Both the modern and ancient districts of Dali now boast many wonderful tourist attractions that are sure to tempt you. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple enjoy great fame throughout Yunnan, as the 1,200-year-old Central Pagoda is one of the few remnants of Dali’s ancient Buddhist past. The nearby Cangshan Mountains are a popular spot for adventure tourists looking to explore the Zhonghe Temple and the Butterfly Spring, which is perpetually shrouded in a flurry of multi-coloured butterflies. The city also boasts some lovely museums, including the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum and the Palace of Du Wenxiu[1]. However, by far the most popular tourist attraction in Dali is the ancient city itself, with its stunning architecture, ethnic minority culture and plethora of teahouses, restaurants and vibrant Western bars.

Dali is about 350 kilometres from Kunming and can be reached by plane, train or bus. From Kunming to Dali, the flight takes about an hour, the train takes about 8 hours and the bus takes around 6 hours. There are numerous hotels and hostels throughout the city that range widely both in price and quality. If you’re travelling through Yunnan, be sure to grab your own little slice of paradise and make a stop in Dali.

[1] Du Wenxiu (1823-1872): He was a Chinese Muslim who led Muslims from the Hui ethnic minority in the Panthay Rebellion (1856-1873) against the Qing Dynasty. His headquarters were based in Dali.